Wintergreen

I really must crack on and get this build finished. At least I have had time to finish the display stand. It took some time to trim the front legs to get Altair to sit with her waterline level. Now all that’s left to do is make and mount the ensign and the Royal Thames Yacht Club flag. Oh and replace 3 stays that have loosened as the model has acclimatised to the house conditions.

I must catch up on other people’s logs before I get withdrawal symptoms.
 

Thanks hakan

Substantially finished now. Just decorative work, flags and figurehead. Display case underway.
 





 
Cheers
Dick

Many thanks Mike,
 
I brought a bit of color to the hul below the walesl, white and a bit ocher sections, but no more to the hull. Perhaps a little dull black to the bow head-rails when they are mounted...... I`m using tamiya tape for masking, which I find very clean to work with...
 
Nils
 

 
 

 

Chebec crew posing for a group photo....., six of them missed the appointment date with the photographer, they are still drinking and eating under deck....
 
Nils

 
 
 

Druxey, this is a small boat with limited deck space, it makes more sense in both the model and the real boat to use plywood. Having said that, planks would be much more versatile. I know very little about canvas sheathing and have never seen it in a model! I think that sanding the plywood with a relatively rough grade and painting straight without sealer or primer, might imitate canvas?
 
Mark, for this boat I am drawing knowledge and ideas from the blog of a couple that built a cold molded sailboat (the chap is a cabinet maker). Their blog is fantastic, worth checking out on http://northseabuilder.blogspot.co.uk. They used 2 layers of 1/4 inch ply, the first one in manageable pieces scarfed over beams and the second one laminated on top. Then they put on the canvas which also covered the deck to sheer joint, ending in a groove. Lovely!
 
EDIT: Fibreglass was used, not canvas!
 
I might do something similar, in 1/10 scale it calls for 0.6 mm ply (0.8 mm much easier to find). 1.5 mm or 2 mm will be very stiff I think. I have used 1 mm screws extensively so far, must have gone through more than 500. Indeed, this double curve is something ply will not really want to do!
 
The boat will have a cabin and I would like all deck components to be made of shiny varnished beautiful wood. This poor little boat does not have a lot more to boast of, its a blue collar boat...
 
On a different note, I finished all cross beams, most temporary, some the actual beams. Isn't this poetry in wood?
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The structure attached to the transom is just a jig to allow me to find the horizontal level, to make sure beams lie vertically and to later on define the waterline.
 
There is a big problem though. I should have left the transom oversized to allow space for the gunwales. I did not though so it ends up flush with the sheer. I am not sure how to correct this, I think I should define the projection of the deck to the Transom and cut the excess so that the deck rides on the transom. Then it will need gunwale and a rubric, rather difficult to make due to all the angles and curves. Hope this makes sense!

Hi Rob
 
THREE MONTHS????????  Oh my Lord.
 
It takes me three months to decide when I'm gonna start a boat....
 
I'm feeling totally inadequate now!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Part 50 – Kathryn’s Dredge Winder Cont’d
 
After fabricating the parts for the winder it became time to assemble them into the finished product.
 
The winder will have an A-Frame over it, and the legs of this A-Frame will rest on small tabs protruding from the I-Beam base.  These tabs were made by bending small pieces of sheet brass into the proper shape.  The following photos show the tabs installed, along with the mounting brackets for the front axles of the winder drums.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The clutch assemblies are mounted to plates welded to the front crosspiece of the winder frame.  These plates were soldered as the next step.
 
                        
 
The clutch assemblies were then soldered to the plates.  In addition, the support for the drive shaft, including the mounting bracket for the shaft, was also soldered onto the front crosspiece.  The drums were hung off the front brackets to help align the clutch configurations.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rear crosspiece was soldered in place with the drums still hanging off the front brackets, since the drums would not be able to be fit between the cross pieces if they were left until later in the assembly process.
 
The rear drum brackets were soldered to the rear crosspiece, and the drive gear and shaft were temporarily mounted in place.
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
                        
 
The drums still turn, so that will make it easier to wind the dredge cable around them.  The clutch handles are temporarily in place, and will be epoxied into the drum shafts after everything is blackened.
 
There was a lot of soldering in close quarters required, and resistance soldering was a big help in keeping solder joints from separating in later steps.  There were still a few instances of solder failures and re-soldering.
 
More cleanup of the brass will be the next step, followed by blackening the entire winder assembly.
 
Thanks everyone for the likes and comments.

So, I just randomly clicked the "San Felipe" link in your signature. I must say, every now and again I get dumbfounded of the skill some people show in their logs. It didn't look like much in the beginning with the big chunks of lumber resting on your big table saw. I read a few pages and then skipped to the end...and Wow! What a ship you have build!
Hats off and bow deep!

Okey, last post for the weekend.
 
Four strakes are on. As Vaddoc noted, they seemed to run high at the stem. Which I knew. This being learning by doing.
But, since wood is such a nice material to work with, things can be adjusted.
 
First picture. Before.

Second picture. After chisel and sandpaper.

I also have trouble amidships with the run of the planks dipping. No picture on that. Just a note to self.
 
Have a nice week!

Håkan, glad to see you! Hope there would be more updates this year when I will finally get back to the actual modelling...
The room is actually good enough, forces me to keep everything in order. The workshop will just allow to increase the scale (larger bandsaw, larger planer, larger mill, etc) - which means I will get sucked into making furniture, tables, etc etc etc. And there are only so many hours I can spend on a hobby.
And it is nice when I can be close with my family, at the same time doing some tedious task that does not occupy a lot of brain (some random glue-up, sanding, etc etc).

Thanks for the likes and the comments everyone.
 
Big day today... the rings came in and so did the guns from Chuck.  I ordered 24 of the appropriate size for the 8 pdrs and also ordered the 6 pdrs.   Yes, they're for an English ship but given the actual size and normal viewing length, I think they'll work perfectly.  Here's a couple of pics.   I will have to make quions now that I know the proper dimensions for them.  This should be a lot of fun.  Time go dig out the Birchwood-Casey and start blackening everything.  
 
I do plan on blackening and fitting the guns (temporarily) to the carriages but not actually installing the barrels until the upper deck and the channels and iron work for the shrouds are in place.  I'll put the carriages in place and lock them down with glue and a "safety" post through the deck.  Having a cannon and/or carriage come loos after the deck above it is in place is not fun in my book.  Been there, done that, built my vocabulary in an ungentlemanly way.
 

Thanks Hakan, it actually vary rarely looks as tidy! Regarding the lighting, I have around 36000 lumens but it is still not enough. I plan to paint the garage white when it warms up a bit.

Hi Hakan
 
I was lucky enough to visit the Danish Roskilde viking museum & found myself chatting with one of their boatbuilders, as (you probably know) it's a living museum where they actively build replicas. I had heard that these boats are flexible & I asked him about it - he gave me a very graphic display of just how much these hulls are able to twist using one of the full sized replicas. If they are intentionally this flexible it is very hard to see how they could be carvel & keep the water out (just as you noted). The internal framing was so simple & light as well.
 
all the best, very interesting & enjoyable build
 
Mark

That's a nice shipyard you have there. Well lit and well organized. A tad too tidy for my taste though ;-)
Nah, just kidding. I do clean my shop from time to time, but I make it a mess again in no time.
I envy your floor where you actually can see the small pieces that regularly are lost.

That's a nice shipyard you have there. Well lit and well organized. A tad too tidy for my taste though ;-)
Nah, just kidding. I do clean my shop from time to time, but I make it a mess again in no time.
I envy your floor where you actually can see the small pieces that regularly are lost.

Hej Mike,
I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.
And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...
Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

Thanks for likes and comments and thoughts.
 
Unusual or not, I can't really tell. Yes, the hull is held on the frames with rubber bands as can be seen in an earlier post. I've seen other small boat projects where the keel structure is fixed to the mould but I thought it more convenient if it was removable (or the truth told, I didn't figure out how to make it stick...).
Since it is removable it is far simpler to look at the lines and correct when needed (not if needed...).
 
About the backing pieces for the scarfs. Good point, in IRL they are 9-10" long, scaled down that is 7,7-8,5 mm long. Mine are 9 mm. However it is a just comment, and I will shorten them slightly moving upwards.
Frames and other stuff will be added once the hull is completed. Like it's done in full scale.
 
Not that I have a B Sc in boat building of small crafts even though I've read a fair deal about it. But for small crafts it is very common here in Scandinavia this clinker technique. Pros are it makes for a light, flexible hull.  Reference is a Viking long boat. Early findings from the first centuries shows that lapstrake in one way or another was how the boats were built in northern Europe. My guess is that the overlap made it simpler to get them watertight. It is not until medieval times carvel came in practice up here. Driving factor was probably merchant and armed navies that required bigger stronger hulls.
Well, that was my 2 cents of knowledge ;-)
It is an interesting discussion though.
 
Cheers!

Hej Mike,
I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.
And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...
Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

Hej Mike,
I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.
And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...
Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

Thanks for likes and comments and thoughts.
 
Unusual or not, I can't really tell. Yes, the hull is held on the frames with rubber bands as can be seen in an earlier post. I've seen other small boat projects where the keel structure is fixed to the mould but I thought it more convenient if it was removable (or the truth told, I didn't figure out how to make it stick...).
Since it is removable it is far simpler to look at the lines and correct when needed (not if needed...).
 
About the backing pieces for the scarfs. Good point, in IRL they are 9-10" long, scaled down that is 7,7-8,5 mm long. Mine are 9 mm. However it is a just comment, and I will shorten them slightly moving upwards.
Frames and other stuff will be added once the hull is completed. Like it's done in full scale.
 
Not that I have a B Sc in boat building of small crafts even though I've read a fair deal about it. But for small crafts it is very common here in Scandinavia this clinker technique. Pros are it makes for a light, flexible hull.  Reference is a Viking long boat. Early findings from the first centuries shows that lapstrake in one way or another was how the boats were built in northern Europe. My guess is that the overlap made it simpler to get them watertight. It is not until medieval times carvel came in practice up here. Driving factor was probably merchant and armed navies that required bigger stronger hulls.
Well, that was my 2 cents of knowledge ;-)
It is an interesting discussion though.
 
Cheers!

Hej Mike,
I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.
And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...
Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

That's a nice shipyard you have there. Well lit and well organized. A tad too tidy for my taste though ;-)
Nah, just kidding. I do clean my shop from time to time, but I make it a mess again in no time.
I envy your floor where you actually can see the small pieces that regularly are lost.

Hej Mike,
I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.
And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...
Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

Thanks for likes and comments and thoughts.
 
Unusual or not, I can't really tell. Yes, the hull is held on the frames with rubber bands as can be seen in an earlier post. I've seen other small boat projects where the keel structure is fixed to the mould but I thought it more convenient if it was removable (or the truth told, I didn't figure out how to make it stick...).
Since it is removable it is far simpler to look at the lines and correct when needed (not if needed...).
 
About the backing pieces for the scarfs. Good point, in IRL they are 9-10" long, scaled down that is 7,7-8,5 mm long. Mine are 9 mm. However it is a just comment, and I will shorten them slightly moving upwards.
Frames and other stuff will be added once the hull is completed. Like it's done in full scale.
 
Not that I have a B Sc in boat building of small crafts even though I've read a fair deal about it. But for small crafts it is very common here in Scandinavia this clinker technique. Pros are it makes for a light, flexible hull.  Reference is a Viking long boat. Early findings from the first centuries shows that lapstrake in one way or another was how the boats were built in northern Europe. My guess is that the overlap made it simpler to get them watertight. It is not until medieval times carvel came in practice up here. Driving factor was probably merchant and armed navies that required bigger stronger hulls.
Well, that was my 2 cents of knowledge ;-)
It is an interesting discussion though.
 
Cheers!