Wintergreen

You're trying to replicate me

Thank you Carl and Patrick!
 
Next build? 
I will go small, clinker and 19th century Swedish west coast...
 
In Swedish they are called "kåg" which stems from Dutch  "kaag" and translates to English "cog". Google will give you wiki results and images.

Thank you Carl and Patrick!
 
Next build? 
I will go small, clinker and 19th century Swedish west coast...
 
In Swedish they are called "kåg" which stems from Dutch  "kaag" and translates to English "cog". Google will give you wiki results and images.

Hi Hakan
 
Congratulations! Definitely very nicely done, because she's a beauty and 'fit for purpose', especially with the candle lit.
 
Nice job.
 
Can you give us a hint about your next model?
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Håkan,
 
A very commendable build. I like the way she turned out, and especially her location and use ... Well done
 
Cheers

Thank you mates!
 
Next build will be quite different...

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

I can only agree with the previous comments, Håkan.  A beautiful build.
 
John

Beautiful work, Håkan.  I can see why they didn't want to wait on the table.  

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

Since Michael nicked my idea for a steam chest, I decided to come up with something new...(just kidding Michael, I keep you in the highest respect, seen your abilities to construct small engines...fantastic).
 
The apple tree I harvested, several years back now, warped during seasoning. It has bugged me all along. Today I put together a "slightly" larger steam chest to facilitate steaming of these billets/timbers.
 
It is ca 95x45 cm (3' by 1'6"). 
After an hour in the Turkish sauna I clamped the pieces to some sturdy timber for drying out. I will let them be there for 24 hrs.
 

 

 
Oh, another milestone passed this week as well...Gods wonder in a small child, my first of the "grand" type ;-)
 

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

Ed: no special paper was used, just regular bond. As it's sealed on both sides, (paint on one, white glue on the other) deterioration is unlikely.
 
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for all the 'likes'. It's very encouraging!
 
Today I installed the aft thwart and mooring timber heads, as well as the tiller. There was no indication of a tiller on the draught, so this is my own invention. I may paint the hand-hold in crimson. The tiller was carved and sanded to shape by hand, not turned.
 
At this point in the build, it is time to make a list of what remains to be done. There are ornamental carved brackets at each corner of the coach, two ensign staffs and their flags. Also, there are twelve oars to make. Stay tuned!

So, time to conclude this thread...boat and table in place finally!
 
It took some takes to get a close match on the color. First I had matched it as good as possible with these small samples you can get from the painters. That was far off when it came to reality. So four or five tries later I was very pleased with the result. AS you can see from the candle it has been in use a couple of weeks (they were so so eager to get it that they didnt care about the table not being ready   )
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thank you for following this small build, and thanks for all the "likes" as well.
 
Til next time - Ta!

Thank You very much.  The pumps have been completed.   You can see that I decided to paint them red.  Most people leave them natural but I figured I would go all in with the painted look.   The same is true for the pump handles and bracket.  These were made of either wood or metal.   Because most folks leave these natural I figured I would paint them black and make them look like metal.  This is how they were treated on the contemporary model of Surly. 
 

 

 

 
 
All of the pieces were painted before assembly.  Then I used some heavy paper to make the reinforcing band.  Those who have these plans will also notice that I have only used one band.   Yet on the plans there are two.  I have once again seen so many variations of elm tree pumps I figured I would show it both ways.  Those building Cheerful can decide which they prefer.
 
1. transfer the 7/10/7 template lines to each side of the 3/16" square pump tube.  Carefully file the tube to an Octagon using the lines as a guide.  Drill and bore out the top of the tube to a depth of about 3/8".  Carefully use a bit that will leave the pump tube walls not too heavy.
 
2. File and shape the bracket for the handle.   The part that sits against the pump tube is tapered thinner so it fits on one facet of the octagon.  Use a slotting needle file 1/32" thin or less to file the slot in the top to a forked shape.  This will accept the handle.
 
3. Place a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in a dremel to round it off. Using an emery board this takes only a minute.  This will become your pump spout.  Drill a hole into the end before parting off a 5/64" long spout.  Glue it to the pump tube.  All pieces can be painted first.
 
4.  Using some card stock strips wrap it around the tube as shown on the plan to simulate the metal reinforcement band.  One ore two is fine.  The top band should be carefully placed so the notch in the bracket accepts it at the the right height on the tube. So measure its location from the plan.
 
5. Glue the bracket into position.
 
6.  Insert a length of 24 gauge black wire into the hole on the end of the handle.  Like an eyebolt.  Insert the end of this long wire into a pre-drilled hole in the bore of the pump tube.  Adjust the length of the wire until the other pivot-hole in the handle site in the bracket nicely.  The handle should be in the downward position to be correct.  
 
7.  Finally insert a small length of 28 gauge black wire into the bracket hole and through the handle to lock it in position.   Snip it off on both sides so it stand proud of the bracket's surface just a little bit. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start on the winch!!!

Cog: No, I use acrylic paint, so there are no issues. I still stretch the paper as if doing watercolour, though!
 
Alan: Whatever gives you the impression that I make no misteaks?
 
I repainted the decorative work to the correct length, cut the pieces out and glued them to the model. The cut edges are not an issue here, as they are hidden by mouldings top and bottom, and also overlapped at the ends.
 
The friezes installed, I then cut, shaped and painted the planksheer rails above the decorative work and glued these to the model. The coach is still removable at this point, so giving a clear field of operation.
 
Aft of the coach is another thwart with what appear to be mooring posts attached. These are next on the list.

One step forward... and two back! I decided to make the decorative barge-boards as friezes; that is to say, on paper. These will be glued on the model. I stretched the paper on a board and painted the dark background. Once dry, the design was traced down using white transfer paper. The design was then applied using a 000 sable brush and gold acrylic paint. I tried to build the paint up three-dimensionally, as the deign was too fine to carve. 
 
When complete, I cut the pieces out carefully, only to find that I'd taken the pattern off to the wrong mark and the pieces were 3/16" too long. So... time for Take Two. I have to do these over again. Onward and upward!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 158 –Deadeye Chain Plates
 
The deadeye chains (aka chain plates) on ships of this period were iron bar forged at each end with holes to take bolts.  I made these about 1” thick and 2 ½” in width, certainly stronger than the 11” shrouds.  These could have been made by the method used in the last post for the backing plates, namely by soldering tube at the end of a plate then slicing them off.  This would involve a lot of metal sawing and a lot of material wastage on these long pieces.  Also since the lower ends of these are bolted under the backing plates the rounding of the bolt eye need not be absolutely perfect.  The first picture shows the progression followed in forming these after the copper strips were cut to approximate width.
 

 
I used a paper cutter to cut the strips then straightened out the curls by stretching the strips in a vise as was done many months ago with the iron hull strapping.  Pulling these also hardens them, though that hardness is soon lost when they are annealed under the soldering torch.  The strip at the top has been drilled for the lower bolt.  In the center piece the lower eye has been roughly shaped.  At the bottom is the finished piece with its width reduced to the 2 ½” (.035” actual).
 
Before these parts could be sized and assembled with the deadeyes, the length of each chain had to be determined.  The next picture shows the positions of the chains on both starboard main channels being set out with the aid of a string taped at the height of the top on a dummy main mast.
 

 
Notches for the chain plates were then filed out and each plate fitted as shown in the next picture.
 

 
On this channel I set the backing links first, then pinned the chain plate at the bottom, bent the angle at the lower channel as shown. The top edge of the top channel was then marked on the plate, the plate removed and then trimmed to size.  The top of each of these was then crimped with pliers to make flat fore and aft surfaces to seat the iron deadeye straps.  In the next picture one of these straps has been formed around a 16” shroud deadeye.
 

 
The copper wire was wrapped around then crimped at the bottom.  The ends were then filed off square and then flattened with pliers.  On the ship these were bolted through the tops of the chain plates just above the channel.  I entertained the idea of bolting these until confronted with the small size – too small to drill – at least for me.  The next picture shows a strap and chain plate assembly after forming the chain at its position on the fore channel and before silver soldering the pieces together.
 

 
The next picture shows the pieces being soldered using a small propane torch.
 

 
Copper phosphorus solder was used because it blackens well with the liver of sulfur that I use to blacken the copper.  After soldering, these were dropped into a Sparex® solution.  After rinsing the deadeyes were fitted into the ring as shown in the next picture.
 

 
This entire assembly was then dipped in liver of sulfur solution to blacken the copper. 
 
The next picture shows the fore channel with the lower shroud deadeyes installed. 
 

 
These are bolted (nailed) into the 6” thick wale planking with the top bolts in the uppermost wale strake.  All the chains are shown being restrained from unruly behavior by bits of masking tape.  The smaller chain plate forward of the last shroud chain will anchor the eyebolt for the standing end of the upper topsail halyard.  This lighter duty chain has no backing plate and was made from 20-gauge copper wire flattened a bit.  I may replace this with a rectangular bar – like the others but smaller.
 
 The channel capping rails will be added after the remaining chains for other rigging are fitted.  When that is done all the chain plates will be straightened. At present the soft annealed copper on these is a bit deformed from handling. The deadeyes will be aligned neatly at the top later when the ship is rigged.  The last picture shows the main channel after fitting of the six lower shroud chains.
 

 
Ed

About time I put up another update.  I've been making slow progress but have been somewhat distracted by some health issues that seem to be just about sorted now.
 
The photo that Bedford took shows her in the display case at the museum.  The spars are only temporarily placed there when I'm not working on her as they are basically nothing more than shaped sticks at the moment (well, not quite, there has been a little done).
 
I've now got the anchor made (it's roughly in its final stowed position in the photos) and have been working on the various mast bands.  They all need to soldered up (can't do that at the museum) but I have to firstly, find some time at home and secondly, wait for the effects of anaesthetic to wear off properly so that I can use soldering gear safely.  I also have the lower sheet blocks attached and their cleats fixed on deck plus the steering ropes are rigged, but not yet fixed in place.
 
As well as the soldering, I now need to make some mast hoops as I can't fit cheeks or mast bands until the hoops are over the masthead and bedded down.
 
By the way, the black 'thing' on the midships cabin is the mizzen boom crutch.  It tucks into the toe rail on each side near the tiller, so I had to get it properly fitted for size while there was nothing in the way around that area.
 
John
 

 

 

 

 

Hey John, guess where I was last weekend??
 

 
She really looks beautiful.
 
I did say I was going to have to come see it. The Shackleton exhibition was just a sideline reason for going.

Hi Niklas!
 
Looks as you're off to a good start, as previously noted.
 
From the photos, I take it that this is not your first build, right?
 
"Niklas", that sounds very Swedish to me..

The roof of the coach has been completed and installed. As this is curved, a suitable strategy for building it is needed. I considered carving it from solid, but this would be difficult to keep a consistent thickness. I decided to cooper it, that is to say, build it up as one would a barrel. 
 
The first step was to carve a form to build it on. I hollowed a piece of basswood to the appropriate radius, which in this case was 3½" full size (first photo). It was then shaped to the shape of the roof and marked out for the six planks that are nominally 1' 0" (scale) wide. These were cut and shaped with a slight bevel on each edge. They were then glued up on the form. 
 
Once complete, two 'rafters' were glued on the underside to maintain shape and integrity. A piece of fine sandpaper was rubber cemented to the form and the upper side of the roof sanded (second and third photos). The outer side edges of the roof were sanded flat, to fit the coach top edges. 
 
Following the color used on Prince Frederick's barge, I painted the roof a blueish green to imitate a verdigris copper roof. On the actual barge, the roof appears to be covered with painted canvas. I used a mix of viridian green, some white and then toned down with the addition of a touch of black. The top of the capitals on the coach were also painted this color and the roof glued in place. 
 
Next is the decorative work at the stern.