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If I have my time zones and days right shouldn't it be up now?

I believe James built both a Speedy in Pear and Flirt in Boxwood - could look for those build logs. They are both nice woods but nothing alike. The pear is more a dark pink (in a good way), the boxwood more yellow and gold. Pear leaves walnut deep in the dust for quality but is not near the cost of the ever harder to find boxwood. I'm looking to building Speedy in Pear and Flirt in boxwood someday when Cheerful isn't on the bench. Check Rusty's Winnie log, he's building that giant 4 foot monster in pear and has some recent nice looks posted

Well, that makes sense - why would it - silly me.

Hi Chris, does the master Shipwright version include the binnacle and masthoops?

Well, generally that’s true of any such kit, but here I was responding to your mention of your old kit. Among other things the wood in a kit may be quite brittle and certainly designs (how it’s put together in parts and cut wood to assemble) have improved - especially if it’s a @chris watton design. You want your first build to be a positive experience so give yourself every chance upfront. With a Vanguard model you’re doing that, in my opinion. Another newbie hint. Click and drag to select the particular part of a post you want to reply to (as I just did). A box with ‘quote selection’ will appear. Click on that and it will initiate a reply with just that text. Makes the flow of responses easier to follow by not repeating entire replies.

Hi Tom, welcome. I would suggest building a smaller model before taking on the 3 foot plus Victory, which won’t be available for a long while. I recommend taking a look at Vanguard Models Here Chris Watten offers a selection of kits made of quality materials, of great design, with exceptional instructions. It would be a great learning experience and a much more positive one than an old kit with poor instructions. Chris also designed Amati’s Victory, so that’s another plus. Building models is great fun, and by starting a build log you also have the forum members to answer questions and offer support as you go. Victory is the behemoth of models, but the techniques are the same as smaller models and more easily learned there. Check out Speedy or the Fifes on the Vanguard website. You won’t be disappointed. And again welcome.

I would think the second planking would wrap around the counter. If you put the counter on last how will the resulting edge look... I’d wait. CA vs. PVA on planking call for two different techniques, looking around the build logs should give you a feel for what works for you. I’ve always used CA, just don’t use too much at a time. I recommend bevels great the top of each plank for a tighter fit.

You’re still using a harder cardboard outer box for shipping? cant wait to get my master Shipwright version.

There will be lots of sawdust. A mask is one essential but so is ventilation. If it isn't there naturally consider the purchase of an air filtration system. Mind is from Rabbit Air and about $400, but there are much cheaper options. Since you're in a basement something like this link would work: Wen This is the most critical and important thing you're going to do - do it right and planking is easy, do it terribly wrong and you may end up tossing the model and starting over. Its not beveling in this case its Fairing the frame. I'd worry less about lines than having a smooth run from bow to stern and keeping the hull symmetrical by fairing both sides the same. You should be able to run a batten (a light, narrow, thin strip you can easily hold up to the side). You will see this done on almost every build log on this site, you can see it in my Cheerful build, another Chuck Passaro design. You should research some of the other Syren, Cheerful or Winnie build logs for examples. Bottom line is the smooth run of the batten - you can maintain the back edge Of the bulkheads (from bow to mid-ships) and front edge (stern to mid-ships) to make sure you keep the symmetry - most of the rest of it should show no laser char. As this is a Chuck design I'm sure those lines will prove helpful - but still look at other logs. My main suggestion is to search this site for other Syren builds and select some that you find especially well done. Let them serve as your guides. I consult three other Cheerful build logs, ones competed years ago, that I look at before taking the next step with my own build. In fact my goal in my log is to leave one future builders will find helpful. You only need to read the entries for the step you're on or is up next. My first build board was a 1x6 board with shoe molding and 1x1s set the width of the keel that held the ship upright. Now I use and Amati stand for the most part, but still use the function specific ones I build for particular stages. Here again research build logs will give you all the visuals you need to make your own - but the Amati stand is pretty popular and available from various hobby sites. It just has to hold the ship, many models come with a cradle, which also works fine. To summarize - there is no better teaching tool than the build logs that have gone before you - there are likely dozens of Syren logs on this site, its a popular kit. Have fun. Remember the modeler's creed Adapt, Improvise, Overcome - (thanks Clint Eastwood) there will be problems and hurdles, the fun of this is figuring a way through them.

That’s one big boat. Great look at the quality of your planking

The artist wash is a water based solution verses a powder. Since I don’t know what it is called I’m really no help😁. At any rate they look great as is. Thanks for info on scrapers. When I need a lull in planking I’ll have a go at making one.

It is a nice feature and nicely installed, a definite plus in my book. What blacken product do you use, that’s a very nice sheen you’ve obtained rather than the usual matte result? Also what metal primer? I always go back and forth on whether to prime or not prime...

I’ll be interested in your opinion on the lathe. I’ve just used my drill to turn wood all these years. I’ve got to learn how to use the mill I just bought before any new toys, I mean tools.

Thank you! I’m tryin’ 😊

Willie is a cool looking dude, I like having scaled figures to stand around on my models during construction to get a sense of size. Enjoying your research on fishing craft and the modifications to Chris' design. I'm like you, no more large models for me - these small craft are more enjoyable and a lot less repetitious tasks. My head still spins from the 3,000 or more copper plates I put on Vanguard.

Not so much a group build as a group of builders enjoying this model challenge. Looking forward to having you join us and following your work as well.

Cutters are my new favorite thing. I like your concept and work here and will enjoy seeing your progress, it’s looking great so far.

Thank you Steven!

I think there is a ”wash” that some artists put on sculptures that give them depth, sort of fills in the crevices and curves with a darker shadow. My artist son would know. However that said, I think they look fine and Dullcote would finish them off great. My opinion is darker isn’t necessary, they look realistic as they are now.

So the brass will cut the profile into the wood, it doesn’t need to be sharpened, or you sharpen it as part of the filing?

Yay!

You're quite handy at doing it - amazing work. More amazing is how little time it takes you to do it!

That’s really all you need for Cheerful, but you do need that. Chose the Byrnes saw when you’re ready, best modeling tool I own.

Couldn’t choose better for your first, my only issue with this and Speedy is the historically accurate but very tiny guns. I hope you also put Cheerful on your list Bob.

Such amazing work James. When I do my build log how about I just use your photos since I can’t match your quality🤣😂 Do you mind my asking, is building And photographing models your work, or are you just this good in your spare time?