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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Hey Garthog, In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5 to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight. I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve. Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that. I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8. I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. Hope that helps.
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Whoops, crossed posts. I have added this to my reference folder. Any reason for fly fishing thread vs the common thread I steal from my wife? Great and informative posts. I’ve rigged lots of cannons, but this puts steps in a new light with clever techniques.
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Truly excellent and the reference model for the rest of us. This is where I’ll come to see how to do mine.
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Thanks Rusty. It could hitch a ride as cargo on your Winnie 🙂
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I appreciate all the comments for my mis-labeled post. But let’s assume I’m a grown-up and understand the basics of machine shop safety. Also, I have no intention or need for any metal work. The two vices I have are specifically designed for my Proxxon mill and are highly rated by it’s users so I’m ok on that front too. I now have good examples of two ways, and can use both for more than just a trim ring - very cool stuff I agree I just need to get in there and cut something. Or maybe fly across the pond and buy a few beers at the pub for Derek -after- he shows me a few things (see, shop safety right there;-) But for now my focus is on finishing planking on Cheerful, I ripped 40-50 more yellow cedar planks last night and will likely need most of them to finish the hull. I’ve bookmarked this thread and will keep it handy. If anyone want to follow Derek and No Idea’s tutorials (Maybe an actual mast cap:-D) with their own please do. We’ll all benefit.
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I haven’t seen any of the Cheerful builds this way, I think I’ll go with the “trim ring” however accurate it may or not be.
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That’s real skill Derek, very nice work. So much there you’d never see in a straight up kit. I learn a lot from your well explained examples.
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I'm sure there are lots of opinions. Personally I've never cleaned the char from those. The glue will hold with the char there, it's somewhat a myth that it won't. I'd be more concerned about altering the fit if I sanded the bulkheads where they fit to the frame. You really want a tight fit. Sometimes you might have to sand a little to get that fit, but not to remove the char.
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This is great Derek and exactly what I was looking for. Just something to learn a bit about the mill and I will eventually need this ring for Cheerful. Thank you for taking the time to detail it out. I understand about the dust, I ripped three sheets of planking strips, about 40-50 last, night. Lots of dust.
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Yes, my lack of knowledge of nautical terms is a problem. I guess the proper term is trim ring at the base of the mast. I was just looking for a simple project for my mill, seems I chose the wrong thing. I don’t have and don’t plan to get a lathe, especially not until I’m less exposed for my ignorance of mills, and obviously nautical terms. Thanks everyone for your replies. I’ll figure something out for the trim ring.
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I’m looking to create a little more ornate mast cap at the base of the mast on the deck. These all sound like nice ideas, but I’m not sure I follow the narrative description.
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I think I need pictures...
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The dividing attachment for the Proxxon FF 70 The Proxxon cutters and a selection of smaller ones. Using Yellow Cedar. Im sure your right, I’ll find a simpler way.
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Don’t we all. I sometimes say to myself “don’t over-optimize”. Then do 😂😊
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I have a new Proxxon mill I don’t know how to use yet. One thing I want to learn to do is to use the rotating clamp to mill a nice mast cap. Anyone have an example or a source/reference I can look to?
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Well thanks Derek, I’ve bookmarked several sections of your Speedy build for future reference as well. Part of my writing it is hoping others find it helpful. I’ve been helped here by lots of people, including you. Thank you very much Chuck. I certainly agree, I hope by sharing my work using your process even more will be encouraged to put in the effort. And yes, the cedar really is nice looking wood. Thanks Richard. But just think, the third time on this model also could be the first time on the next one.
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