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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. Those are the longest skinny cannons I’ve ever seen 😂🤣 Your hull looks great. Not sure what to offer on the painting. The Tamiya tape is usually the answer. I have a tool I use (hard curved metal end) to run along the edge to ensure a really tight seal. I’ve had the poly underneath the tape and not had a problem. At any rate you recovered nicely. Nothing stands out worse on a model more than bad paint lines, sure don’t see any now.
  2. Pinning the wet/steamed wood may result in warping as/ after it dries. The method I use as I learned from Chuck doesn’t require soaking or steaming thus no warping. But if you think it’s just tapering then ok.
  3. In addition to Ryland’s comments: Are you soaking the planks, hard to see but looks some of the warping may be due to too much soaking, or perhaps your fairing is off. Your tapering also seems, by this point there should be much more taper there by that point. The link Ryland provided addresses both issues. You can make up a lot with sanding and filler on the first planking, but as you said you want the first planking to be practice for the second.
  4. It takes only a small dab of CA in the center of each tile, and it’s definitely a CA job. Like Chris I keep as many together I can 3-5 wasn’t unusual. The overlap stands out to you as your doing it, but you won’t notice it all once it’s on the shelf. I’m on record, I do not like to copper. It’s way too much like work:-/
  5. I've built every model this way. My masts look like a shaggy Christmas tree as I hold them up with all the blocks and shrouds before stepping it onto the ship. That leave running the lines through the blocks and tying the ratlines once its up.
  6. It’s always a good plan to rig out masts and spars as much as possible off the ship. It’s so much easier if all you.re doing at that point is connecting stuff.
  7. I have Cheerful, the masts and yards are square stock. I think I may be doing it next, not sure yet. Chris coming out in July with Flirt Master Shipwright version gives me pause starting Speedy. I saw the Ibex site - there were so many versions and blade size no idea where to start. https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/ I'll go for the one on your link - but what blade size. I'm really a novice planer, I may slice my thumb off.
  8. I own no planers, that in itself would be interesting. Thanks for the photos and explanation. I’ll try and sort out making the jig and look for a planer.
  9. I'm going to get some experience with square stock with Cheerful. So when you say planing jig...? I get the squaring off verses rounding off, but as I'm not interested in owning a lathe I'd be interested to hear more and maybe a photo of your jig. I can probably sort it out with my handy DeWalt battery powered drill, I'm all for seeing how the experts do it and any way that would make it more precise than turning my drill with sandpaper and files in hand. Your dioramas are amazing, I thought you were showing me a painting..l.
  10. It has, its intended to replace planking the deck, but nothing prevents you from planking over it - both have been done and shown in other build logs.
  11. I look forward to seeing how that goes. I’m going for the Master Shipwright version of Flirt. If it’s all boxwood I’d rather try almost anything other than walnut.
  12. Of course its up to you, I don't know how lime wood would hold up (as in I really don't know) and I understand boxwood and pear are out. It was just a thought....
  13. I guess we could do that if there was any boxwood of the right dimensions to be found in the world. Although I’m sure it be a bit pricey. Chris’ thought of lime is a good one.
  14. I’d like to hope for something that would compliment the boxwood design for Flirt. Walnut would be a bit of a downer, unless they were fully painted. In for a penny in for a pound I believe the expression goes.
  15. I’m going to remember this when I start painting Cheerful. I’ve always painted multiple coats, but like 3-4. I’d love to see your boat live. I bet you can feel the depth. Really nice job. I can paint a straight line...wait without tape...😱😳
  16. I wasn’t criticizing simply stating you don’t know that it isn’t accurate. It is, as you said, just your opinion. I have practical road going experience with cars, that doesn’t mean I can spot size differences of a particular model from a photo. Chris responded to you that he copied and followed actual plans and that it was accurate per those plans. That is answer enough. Since I doubt the model will be modified based on your opinion I suggest this is not a kit you want to buy.
  17. Is that really something to quibble about? I’m sure for a heavily used boat like this there were lots of variations. Let’s just enjoy looking at something different. My question though is where do the cannon go?🤣😂
  18. The best modelers are the ones that adapt to and correct their mistakes - I don't think there are many that do it right every time - I certainly don't. There isn't much you can't recover from with modeling - except not having a squared frame to build on, hence my earlier advice. The nice thing about a double planked ship is you can do almost anything to cover the frame with the first planking, sand, wood fill, do whatever to make that a smooth form and the second planking goes on fine - I think Hunt probably describes tapering and measuring so with that practicum you'll be fine. And if not, you can fix it. That's the fun of it all.
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