glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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I’ve used water based poly on most of my models and have never had a “milk” problem. I suppose it’s in the brand. I’d think using an oil based varnish would definitely need thinning to prevent it from gumming up. -
Your plan makes sense to me. I for one am looking for quality, both of material and design. It seems that’s your direction. While I respect ASAT’s views on Bristol I find myself more interested these days in smaller ships that don’t take me years to finish. Is that Flirt’s false or primary deck that appears to be in 4 pieces? Have you thought about another cutter, or a 1:48 kit? Ok, I’ve exceeded my allotment of questions. Thanks Chris for being available, sharing your plans, and answering questions.
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My First start was the AVS with a Hunt practicum. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me.
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I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn than Chuck’s a dvanced long boat. Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PVA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it. It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. It all starts there. I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. Welcome to the club.
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Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.
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Though it’s not in a glass case, I got the plans for Pegasus when I built her, they are now framed and hanging in my workshop. It’s. A nice idea and I can tell you first hand does provide inspiration, making a connection to the past and the real thing. I have my little painted Cochran’s watching over me on a shelf, and read the kindle version of the book on him Chris recommended. He was quite the guy.
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You and I are officially labeled as trouble makers 🙂 but like you I’ve highjacked Other Glenn’s log long enough. Our heads will be knocked with belaying pins.🙉
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Didn’t mean to create a problem, I guess like you said I’d grown use to the comically sized fat ones. I have a similar issue with Amati and my current model, the swivel guns are bigger than the cannon.
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It's a good point and I'll retract my objection until I see how the PE versions look on mine. The brass ones are the best choice I think, I've ordered 8mm ones I'll blacken for my 1:48 Cheerful, I'm not turning anything on a lathe regardless of size, I'd hurt myself.
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Thanks for the explanation Chris, if you'd explained it before I missed it. I certainly understand about the scale and fat pin issue, that makes sense. I think my issue will be the two dimensional aspect of a PE pin, but I'll give them a try when I reach that point. Working at 1:64 does present it's challenges. Again thanks for taking the time to explain - and for the record I didn't ever think it was a cost issue.
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I do use both glues as well and agree both are needed. The discussion mostly hovers around planking I think, all in fun.
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I have the very complex and high end battery powered hand drill. That a few files, sandpaper and a dust mask and away I go. 😊😏🤣
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PE pins seems to me an odd choice for a kit of this quality, perhaps Chris will explain that decision. At any rate there went my plan to build the kit “as is”. I’ll be looking for some decent quality wood pins.
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Yeah, you're going to want to fix that. Careful and light application of your #11 blade and flat file should take care of it. Once painted red it will be lost to the eye with the completed model.
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Welcome to the Speedy club. Mine is still in the box waiting until my current project completes. We all learn and share on this forum, some might be better than others but that doesn’t matter. I’ve built 8, almost 9, pretty nice models. I’m not too bad at it, but then I look at work by Blue Ensign, Chuck, and lots of others. I learn new things seeing their work and strive to get better at mine. Be proud to share and willing to ask for help. I’m sure I’ll learn something following your log. I think we’ve divided ourselves into CA and non-CA people, I’m sorry to see the non-CA people have a new member 🤣😂 Great start! A small suggestion. I glue strips of felt to the building cradle after the second planking to protect it from scratching. I work from it more than the vise once I’m done planking. Just a thought.
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I'd like to see some of your work Bob, I recommend your adding links to galleries or build logs to your signature line so we can see how you do it.
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I have several dentist tools that come in handy for a lot of tasks - the scraper shown in this amazon listing (the one on the left in the photo) is one of my most used tools. It works great for scraping away extra glue. The other tools come in handy from time to time, like putting a drop of CA in a hard to reach place. https://www.amazon.com/Dental-Scraper-Stainless-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B07XF4KQTL/ref=sr_1_19?crid=32L1T8YIOC1DH&dchild=1&keywords=dental+scraper+tool&qid=1586277043&sprefix=dental+scraper+tool%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-19
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You're doing exceptional work! I have a very careful process for marking waterlines -but its now history. From here on I'm stealing your laser level idea - very clever.
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Good, and well done! As a photographer I'm a big believer in the value of backups, can't have too many backups.
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I'm pretty sure I wouldn't put paper decals on my model, as just another opinion. I painted and installed the frieze on my Pegasus. It wasn't simple or quick but I like the final look - the yellow ochre painted brass on a blue painted background has a nice relief that paper couldn't achieve. Again, just one opinion. Paper isn't for me.
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I think we all need more to do.
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I have a few tools just for that purpose, It works great as long as you're careful. The key is to have a flat tool that has a slightly dull edge - sharp, but not very and pulling flat across the wood. The tool not to use is your #11 blade, neither flat nor dull.
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I'm happy for you both - and happy for me not to 🙂 Far too tedious a task for me, even on a small ship, and in my opinion, I don't care for the look, historical accuracy aside. But again, I understand its modelers choice and glad you both are enjoying the process and your results. We all get to be happy in our little wooden world...
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This doesn’t look like a frigate☹️😏😂
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