glbarlow

I agree with Chuck and James. Removing all the char from pieces before assembly is not an advanced skill. That alone makes a big difference and should jump past any “good enough” qualifier. Chuck’s initial comments aren’t to belittle, but to encourage taking a little more time to get a lot better result. At least that’s how I read it.

If you're properly painting thin coats of virtually any color other than black that char is going, and is, showing through the paint. It isn't a race, nor is the model a Lego toy to push together parts. Taking the time to do it right costs you only time.

The level of detail, accuracy, and outright wow factor is what excites me about this project. I think others may gush over those other designs because they themselves are major steps above older kits and designs and a lot for a basic, anyone can assemble, kit. As appealing as they might be they are not in that same league, not even close, as to what you’re doing for us with Winnie. You make the deal for us by providing your advanced designs in way we mere mortals can still build them. Please don’t cut corners to make it simpler unless it's a simpler way to achieve an advanced design. This is why Winchelsea stands alone.

Don’t give up on the square tuck, it’s a signature item. Your planking looks great.

I’m glad this works for you but not how I would recommend.

I applied only black Strylex primer with the airbrush then weathered them. I’m sure the fixative is a good alternate approach. You do have to do something, I don’t think applying it directly to the resin would work well. When I build Winnie’s stove I’ll apply Dull Coat after the weathering powder as Chuck did. I saw no need for it on either Cheerful or Flirt’s guns. So far both look fine.

Looks great, congrats on almost being done!

No offense taken. I also didn’t mean to offend anyone pointing out while a rail is likely helpful in a macro environment especially if your doing the focusing steps manually, it isn’t helpful for focus stacking in a landscape environment and isn’t needed at all with Nikon’s Focus Shift feature, However in the agree to disagree column I can easily demonstrate image quality differences In multiple categories between a kit or low end lens and a high end one. The difference between cameras is mostly measured in features and control but there are quality differences there too. Ship building and photography are both my hobbies, but photography pays me back in image sales on occasion. Acknowledging I’m being a bit critical, the street photo posted isn’t in focus at all, front to back. Any image shot at a small aperture at a far enough distance can be in focus, but that’s hardly the point in discussing this method for ship models. Like you, mine is only an opinion formed from experience.

Buy more CA?

Perfect, this is great stuff.

How do I determine the tapered width of each the three planks at the bow?

Actually all Nikon’s new technologies is going to the Mirrorless Z line. They’ve come a long way, I wouldn’t buy another DSLR at this point. There is an FTZ adapter so you can still use your f mount lenses, the S line lens are also the main path forward but can be deferred. I know the Z6 has focus shift, not sure about the more moderately price Z5. I’m sure Nikon’s web page will say. Canon users are out of luck altogether.

Sorry James, I doubt it does. I think The Z mirrorless (both my Z7 and Z7II have it) but perhaps only D850 and above in DSLRs. Time for a camera upgrade?

A rail isn’t used or needed at all with the Nikon’s Focus Shift feature, all the work is done by the camera, a tripod is essential though. It actually wouldn’t be needed with any camera doing the same process manually changing focus. Your changing the point of focus without changing the framing of the photo. The camera can’t move, if it does the image is corrupted. Only the focal plane changes incrementally front to back. I think some may be confused. The image, more specifically the composition, stays exactly the same, nothing changes or gets bigger. All that happens is the precise point of focus of the image is changed. Selection of the best aperture is also important as there is an associated depth of field wherever the focus point is. Part of the work is knowing the overlap so there are no soft spots between stacked images. Nikon Focus shift does this overlap based on a setting I choose. I take these mostly at f/5.6 for smaller closer things (like a ship model) or f/8 for deeper landscape photos (a stream or waterfall). A rail likely helps for macro images like a flower, I’ve never used one but guessing that’s a different process than Focus Shift photography. I have though taken photos of flowers without one, just a tripod and Focus Shift. The only reason I don’t do more of these is the setup and processing time required, even with the focus shifting done by my cameras. Helicon Focus and Photoshop work their magic to select and blend the best focus of every element in the frame. I took a Focus shift of Cheerful stern to bow, it used 50 images. I’ve done landscape images that take 150-300. A lot of memory and processing given my Nikon Z7s and D850 take 45MB images and a lot processing power to blend that many images.

Certainly no apology necessary. It’s your build. I just have faith you’re skilled and dedicated enough to make it right and was just encouraging that. I ripped the sides off Cheerful twice, once after one side was ¾ done. It does, as you point out, show that mistakes happen and if not corrected at the time build and compound on each other.

Very quality work BE, I’m sure Chris is happy to see his design turning into such a well built model. Taking your time and advanced planning pays off.

Do you have a bet with someone on how fast you can build this, 🤣😂

Ok, appreciate the reply.

I don’t mean to be at all negative just something to consider. As you’re in the vanguard of Sphinx builders and want Chris’ model to show well, and given your intent to build another one, isn’t it a good opportunity to take the time to correct mistakes both to learn how for the next copy, we all make mistakes I know I do, and to show Chris’ design in the best possible light. I don’t think speed is a goal. It’s not really a prototype if you leave the mistakes, prototypes are to identify and correct them, at least as I understand Sorry if this isn’t taken well. I mean it it this best possible way. I want both you, as a fellow Glenn, and Chris to be successful.

Fixing mistakes is so worth the time and actually can make for a fun challenge. Plug and play is not for wooden ship models. Problem solving makes it interesting.

Speed isn’t a factor in this hobby, nor is it a sin to correct mistakes however long it takes. My Cheerful has two sides, I’m pretty sure I planked four by the time I was done, removing and replacing until I had it done right. The timing of my next long post doesn’t drive my building.

Higher end Nikon cameras have feature for this I use occasionally. Set the parameters in menu, focus at the very closest point (on a tripod) click the shutter once and it will take a series of photos at incremental focus points front to back, I just wait until it’s done. Nikon calls it Focus Shift. Of course that stack of photos still has to be merged either in Photoshop or a program like Helicon Focus, which I have. While it ultimately results in an almost 3-D like photo, the down side is it takes a considerable amount of time to generate that one resulting image between taking it and processing it.

Good use of time to map it all out in advance to ensure it works like it should. The stern is always tricky, less so when you plan it out like this. Nice.

Now having seen the guns in person I regret any role I had in persuading you to rig your Speedy. The weathering powder is a big difference maker. Model Expo has the Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powder, you need that and a dedicated weathering powder brush set. It's more than worth it, even it it takes shipping from the US.

That may be the best garboard plank I've seen, that's exactly how its supposed to look. Nice planking overall, well done!