glbarlow

Nicely done!

Nicely done!

Well done, the tribute to your father is especially nice.

Post 70
Rigging the Wheel
Steel indicates 3” circ line for the tiller lines which equates to a scale diameter of 0.37mm.
The kit plans suggest a 0.25mm line, but I am using 0.3mm Syren line.
I start on the Port side where the line meets the wheel drum on its forward end.
Sufficient line is required to complete the entire process.

4021a
I firstly secure the line to the aft deck eyebolt off-model. A false splice is used for neatness.

4023a
The line then runs to the tiller and back thro’ the deck blocks (in the correct sequence) and up to the wheel drum on the forward end.
Care needs to be taken to ensure the line is fed thro’ the correct hole in the blocks.
Three turns of the line around the drum, with a spot of ca at the centre of the third turn atop the drum.
Before this is done  the lines are checked for tautness  throughout the Port side set-up.
Given the length of the line care is also required when feeding it thro’, there are many snag points  on the surrounding fittings which may be dislodged if  caught when the line is pulled thro’.

4030a
I have used six turns  of line in total around the drum  because this best matched the block arrangement. It is a common novice mistake to wrap the line around the drum as many turns as it will take.
Five or six turns would be appropriate on smaller vessels, Victory had nine.

4029a
Must have been very annoying stepping over the tiller lines to gain access to the stern.
 
I last looked at the Binnacle in Post 54, but I’m no closer to a decision where or whether to place it.
It makes no sense to me to have a Binnacle where the Helmsman can’t see the compass, and a unit with a chimney without a lamp compartment.
I tried the double cabinet but the unit seems too close to the wheel and the viewing of the compasses is still obscured by the wheel.
My inclination is still that the small cabinet slightly offset to the side of the wheel is the practical option.
Being an important piece of kit it would be removed below deck in the event of an approaching action.

4033a
Small single Binnacles do feature in ships of the first quarter of the 19thc often one each side of the wheel, but I can’t find any examples of this cabinet style (above) positioned as it is.

4035a
Historical museum ships and some  contemporary models all show a centrally placed cabinet  before the wheel, but there is more space between the wheel and the cabinet; with Harpy the binnacle is hard against the wheel stanchion.

4036a

4039a
The Helmsman looks quite comfortable with the arrangement, but my dithering continues.....
 
B.E.
25/04/2025
 

Been a fairly productive weekend.  Have nearly completed the Quarter Gallery framing and mostly faired.
 
Completed installing the upper and lower sills.
 

 
Did some rough fairing of the sills and sanded the stern frames down to the dashed line.
 

 
Then fabricated the Quarter Gallery framing per the instructions, checking that each piece lined up with the template I created.
 

 

 
I used the laser cut planks for the Lower Counter provided in kit2 as a template to get the shape correct when fairing the frames and ensuring I did not over-fair the stern.
 

 
Picture showing the curve of the transom.
 

 
Placed the transom piece on the framing to check alignment. 
 

 
Question - how much space should there be between the outer edge of the stern frame and the window opening in the transom piece?  I have 1/8 inch on each side.  I think this is correct from looking at the drawings but would like to double check if I need to add another 1/32 inch or so?
 

 
That's it for this weekend.
 
Steve

Post 68
Deck fittings.
The Gallows
There are two sets to make up, and the main consideration is getting them to fit cleanly and squarely thro’ ladderway and Main hatchway, to slot into the lower deck.
A little fine tweaking in the area of the coamings was necessary to get a smooth but firm fixture.
The aft Gallows pass thro’ the Main Hatch and the provided gratings have a cut-out to pass between the  Gallow standards.

3968a
Mine did not easily fit, but I was aware that any pressure on the grating and it would surely snap, leaving a tricky repair job, or having to contact Chris to buy a replacement.

3969a
By degrees I  sanded both standard and access mortise until I could slip the grating into place without stress.
It is a large grating which in reality was probably in two or three sections. I did think of modifying it as I did with both Sphinx and Indy, but I got the yips, and couldn’t face bothering  Chris yet again……… Sorry Chris,  I’ve  messed up another grating with my interminable fiddling.🫤

3982a
Fore Gallows installed, the Riding Bitts have also been installed at this point.

3976a
Gallows completed.

3974a
There are a lot of deck eyes to fit, and this is a good point to add the mast coat ring for the masts.
 
Steering
Before the wheel is glued into place I considered  the complicated arrangement of  pulleys that run between tiller and wheel barrel.

3986a
I used a pattern from the plans to check the location of the  deck blocks, those using the pre-made deck will have those positions already marked.
The last time I rigged one of these was on Pegasus a ship built some 20 years previous to Harpy. The only difference in the rig seems to be that foot blocks are used to direct the line from the barrel downwards directly to the deck. The tackles still run across the deck which must have created a serious inconvenience.

3990a
I think it is  probably best to attach the deck blocks before installing the wheel to give the best chance of making a neat job of seizing the blocks to the deck eyes.
I am using Syren 3mm Boxwood blocks  in preference to the basic kit version.
The blocks are seized to the rings before fitting.

3988a

3995a

3992a
The tiller lines will be rigged later, still more things to do on the deck.
 
B.E.
23/04/2025

Cheers Ronald and Mark, and thanks to all following along, much appreciated.
Post 64
Headworks cont’d
Additional Timber heads

3848b
I decided to have a punt at creating the aftmost timberhead as shown on the Adm plan above.

3864a
I used the spare kit part as a template for the basic shape, traced onto some spare 1.5mm fret, and cut out on the jigsaw.

3869a

3875a

3878a
I suspect that some detail is missing from the head works, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be an Adm. plan of this area.

3880a
I don’t know whether it is a kit simplification, or based on  other sources, but I have doubts that the space between the Head timbers and rails would simply be a void.
At the very least I would expect there to be Head beams running between the Head timbers, linked by Carlings in the fore/aft direction.

3887a
I decided to add these and the saddle, but leave out any further enhancement.
I’ll fit the carlings later, once I’ve checked that they don’t foul the Gammoning.

3897a
Would there have been gratings, and seats of ease for the crew? Harpy did carry quite a large crew (121), and I presume the  ‘Necessary’ at the stern was for the use of Officers.🤔
 
The final part is to add the decorative scroll work.

3901a
This is primed with Metal Prep 4k before painting with ochre brown.

3883a

3891a

3893a

3886a
The hull is complete now, but I think Harpy has raised more questions in my mind than Sphinx and Indy taken together, all great fun, and I’m enjoying this build far more than I imagined I would.
 
……..Back to the deck fittings.
 
B.E.
15/04/2025
 
 
 

Placeholder for the kit instructions of the Speedwell Battle station.  The kit will be given away at the Joint Clubs show this Saturday.  But I will be heading up a group build at out local club in New Jersey.  The goal for our small club was to create a teaching mini kit to help describe one method for doing three things.   I will also be distributing a bunch of these small kits here on MSW.
 
-Building a cannon carriage with a jig
 
-Rigging a cannon with a simplified approach
 
-Painting small figures for your ship models.
 
The last tech group tech session will require a separate set of instructions for the group to be made later.
 
Mono
SpeedBattleStationInstructions.pdf
Plan sheet
joint clubs.pdf
Material list
list materials.pdf
 
I have been asked by so many people to NOT make this a limited edition kit at all.... and because it would be a great opportunity for other local clubs to also use it as a group build.   I havent decided yet.  Same is true with doing a group project here at MSW because this is something that wont take several years to finish and it is a very quick project.   Plus it has three main points of teaching that is commonly asked about by new and intermediate builders.  Granted this is just one approach to doing them all.  But it would be interesting to see some of the other approaches.  The instructions attached contain a very detailed step by step for rigging the cannon because that was one of the main focuses for my club group build.   The kit also contains a jig for making the gun carriage.
 

 
 

Thank you for the tips Glenn,  I have spent a lot of time trying to learn from the previous builds and it's good to have some items like this pointed out as there is so much information and it's easy to miss a detail.
 
I did see the use of the templates and made the template of the gallery framing, forgot to show it in use.  The template is an accurate cut-out from my plans and the angle of the stern is dead on.  However the template is between 1/32 and 1/16 inch longer than my framing.  The outside frames are fully seated in their slots and the length is controlled by the notch in the stern frame overlapping one of the bulkheads so it must be correct.  Right now I'm thinking a little light sanding when fairing the stern and the template will drop right in.  You can see that it's just a little bowed right now to fit and just a touch too high.  If I take off about 1/32 on the inside of the stern frames, it should be about perfect.
 
Had some fun with the inner 4 frames that when I was adjusting them the window spacers kept on popping out.  The whole thing is just a little spring loaded right now, but the window spacers are being held in with no additional clamping force.
 

 
Steve

Lining the hull properly eliminates the guess work. I've built both Flirt and Lady Nelson, the hulls are different,

Brings back memories.  Seems like you have it well in hand, it is essential that all the framing is accurate.  This is especially true of the stern and gallery framing, there are some tight tolerances ahead in future chapters, this framing is what makes it work. I noted you use cut outs of the plans on the bow, I encourage you to do so on the stern, both the transom and in particular the galleries. You’ll see this done in other build logs.  So many times I was thankful I’d worked and reworked this infrastructure, the cutouts were infinitely helpful.

Brings back memories.  Seems like you have it well in hand, it is essential that all the framing is accurate.  This is especially true of the stern and gallery framing, there are some tight tolerances ahead in future chapters, this framing is what makes it work. I noted you use cut outs of the plans on the bow, I encourage you to do so on the stern, both the transom and in particular the galleries. You’ll see this done in other build logs.  So many times I was thankful I’d worked and reworked this infrastructure, the cutouts were infinitely helpful.

Brings back memories.  Seems like you have it well in hand, it is essential that all the framing is accurate.  This is especially true of the stern and gallery framing, there are some tight tolerances ahead in future chapters, this framing is what makes it work. I noted you use cut outs of the plans on the bow, I encourage you to do so on the stern, both the transom and in particular the galleries. You’ll see this done in other build logs.  So many times I was thankful I’d worked and reworked this infrastructure, the cutouts were infinitely helpful.

Thanks for the nice words guys!..  Yeah, my Cheerful suddenly looks to be in a more finished state as it sits temporarily on the base.  Glenn, I have my order in with the local place that makes all the brass name plates for my projects.  Using the same style name plate also gives a familial look to the models displayed in my home office.
 
Erik

Can’t wait. Beefing up the bow is a great idea, it will save me fittings balsa there. 

I should have mentioned the ones from Model Expo often seem like they come out of the discarded bin. Brass takes me back to my military days, the slightest tarnish wasn’t tolerated. I used Brasso and a soft cloth to quickly and easily bring back the bright color that’s always there somewhere. Nice work with the turning and filing, the model and stand integrate perfectly. 
 
I've used that wood base on all my models other than Winchelsea, I never had one arrived stained, glad it’s a color you like.  Now I recommend adding a small engraved brass plate, I include model name, my name and the month/year I completed it (so when I’m old I’ll remember it was me that built it😂🤣
 
You’ve build a great version of Cheerful, really excellent work. 

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I should have mentioned the ones from Model Expo often seem like they come out of the discarded bin. Brass takes me back to my military days, the slightest tarnish wasn’t tolerated. I used Brasso and a soft cloth to quickly and easily bring back the bright color that’s always there somewhere. Nice work with the turning and filing, the model and stand integrate perfectly. 
 
I've used that wood base on all my models other than Winchelsea, I never had one arrived stained, glad it’s a color you like.  Now I recommend adding a small engraved brass plate, I include model name, my name and the month/year I completed it (so when I’m old I’ll remember it was me that built it😂🤣
 
You’ve build a great version of Cheerful, really excellent work. 

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.

Really cool to follow the design progress! 👌