glbarlow

Send me your bottle of Macallan 25, I’ll burn some boxwood and let you know...

Send me your bottle of Macallan 25, I’ll burn some boxwood and let you know...

Send me your bottle of Macallan 25, I’ll burn some boxwood and let you know...

Which one of those is mine 🙂 ?

Which one of those is mine 🙂 ?

Which one of those is mine 🙂 ?

Which one of those is mine 🙂 ?

I've built every model this way.  My masts look like a shaggy Christmas tree as I hold them up with all the blocks and shrouds before stepping it onto the ship. That leave running the lines through the blocks and tying the ratlines once its up.

Jim Hatch has finished the prototype model for the Zulu's stable mate, the Fifie Lady Eleanor.
 
The foremast for both Zulu and Fifie is actually comes in 8x8 and 6x6 square walnut respectively, as the bases of the masts are square.
 
Am hoping Zulu will be ready for release at the end of next week, and Fifie the week after, depending on how quick I can put the manual together and how quick the printers can get the plans, manual and box label done..
 
Oh, I had my boxwood sheet arrive yesterday. Started to laser cut the 1mm, and it cuts (and etches) well - although I did have to scrap a couple of sheets due to my own stupidity...

The jig can be relatively simple.  Here is an example from a demo I saw at the most recent NRG conference.  Extra piece of wood to hook onto the edge of table so it doesn't slide forward.  The V grove can easily be made by just cutting off a corner from a square at a 45% angle then gluing 2 pieces together to get a nice 90 degree V slot.  I am pretty sure he was using at least a 3/4 inch chisel maybe even 1 inch wide.  Worked great
 

Glenn (and others who may be interested),
Here is another link for a precision planer: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/ibexluthiersflatsolefingerplane36mm.aspx
Ron

I own no planers, that in itself would be interesting. Thanks for the photos and explanation. I’ll try and sort out making the jig and look for a planer.

I have Cheerful, the masts and yards are square stock.  I think I may be doing it next, not sure yet.  Chris coming out in July with Flirt Master Shipwright version gives me pause starting Speedy.
 
I saw the Ibex site - there were so many versions and blade size no idea where to start.  https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/ I'll go for the one on your link - but what blade size.  I'm really a novice planer, I may slice my thumb off.
  

I have Cheerful, the masts and yards are square stock.  I think I may be doing it next, not sure yet.  Chris coming out in July with Flirt Master Shipwright version gives me pause starting Speedy.
 
I saw the Ibex site - there were so many versions and blade size no idea where to start.  https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/ I'll go for the one on your link - but what blade size.  I'm really a novice planer, I may slice my thumb off.
  

Glenn try this link (from the link site you went to): https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/round-planes/50505-ibex-flat-plane-5-225mm-blade
 
Yes, be extremely careful with these planes. You'll need to set the blade cutting depth carefully to NOT shave off too much stock at one time; several light passes are best and safer. On larger stock sections (say, 8mm), as the cuts broaden with successive strokes you'll need to apply more pressure; this is the point when one needs to be diligent. The other rule of woodworking blades of all kinds: keep them sharp! The blade in the Ibex can be easily removed and re-inserted very quickly.
 
Ron

I own no planers, that in itself would be interesting. Thanks for the photos and explanation. I’ll try and sort out making the jig and look for a planer.

Glenn,
Here are two pics of my "planing jig." One shows a piece of pear square stock(8mm and long), the other, a shorter piece of Boxwood (10mm). Both photos show the grooved stock holding blocks and the end stop on the jig. The jig can securely hold square sections about 18" long and about 12-14mm (max) thick. As you can see, much smaller square sections can be accommodated easily (5 different sized holding grooves); I haven't run into a mast or spar yet when I couldn't use this simple jig. Yes - one does need to create the holding blocks and secure them to the baseboard (I have 4 total on the full jig length). I used a precision tablesaw (with a tilting table) to cut these grooves in a block of wood (maple, I think) and then "sliced off" the four pieces I needed. I chose to have three of the blocks fairly close together so I could plain-down short wood sections. Even hardwoods will bend slightly under planing pressure you'll apply: the close spacing fully supports the stock, end-to-end.
 
It is also good to invest in high-quality "finger" plains. The ones shown here are used for precision musical instrument woodworking; I got them both from violin maker tool vendors (one here in the U.S.-Ibex, and the other in the U.K. - Sheffield). Google 'em if you're interested. Not inexpensive, but superbly crafted tools with high-quality steel blades.
 
Note that once one has reduced the square section pieces to fully round cross sections, you'll still need to use sandpaper by hand - or employ a small lathe/drillmotor, etc. to finish. I do all of these sanding steps typically. Note that when making yards that there is an octagonal center section which will be easy to mark off when the eight sections are equal. One then carefully continues shaping to a round section with the plains on either side of the octagon. This part, going the eight flats to the fully round section takes some practice to get right.
 
Hopefully, my description and photos gives you a good idea on how I start my masts and spars for my models.
 
Cheers! - Ron
 
PS Thanks for your kind comment. I'm now working on my 4th diorama and I keep learning how to do water a little better each time. I love to present my models as living, "dynamic" artifacts, albeit from another era. On my latest model, I learned how to use new materials to simulate splashing water. Who knew?! It's a whole new thing (pour moi!)... on my current build I'm trying to figure out how a small river flows into the seashore- fresh water meeting salt water. It's a "thing" - trust me!!!

I'm going to get some experience with square stock with Cheerful.  So when you say planing jig...?
 
I get the squaring off verses rounding off, but as I'm not interested in owning a lathe I'd be interested to hear more and maybe a photo of your jig. I can probably sort it out with my handy DeWalt battery powered drill, I'm all for seeing how the experts do it and any way that would make it more precise than turning my drill with sandpaper and files in hand.
 
Your dioramas are amazing, I thought you were showing me a painting..l.

I'm going to get some experience with square stock with Cheerful.  So when you say planing jig...?
 
I get the squaring off verses rounding off, but as I'm not interested in owning a lathe I'd be interested to hear more and maybe a photo of your jig. I can probably sort it out with my handy DeWalt battery powered drill, I'm all for seeing how the experts do it and any way that would make it more precise than turning my drill with sandpaper and files in hand.
 
Your dioramas are amazing, I thought you were showing me a painting..l.

I’d like to hope for something that would compliment the boxwood design for Flirt. Walnut would be a bit of a downer, unless they were fully painted. In for a penny in for a pound I believe the expression goes. 

Thanks for asking. I’ll likely do one here when I start the HMS Speedy later this year.  The second time around on the planking may be more informative. I’m looking forward to building this Chris Watten kit. 
 
I’m working on figuring out Chuck’s method, but haven’t sorted it out just yet. For example I bought a French curve because he shows one in his marking the ship tutorial to transfer the curve but so far I have no clue how to do that 🤣😂. I will have questions once I get into the second planking this coming week. 
 
I enjoyed and learned from your Vanguard build as well, as I recall we were both building her at the same time. I still wish I’d kept an offline copy of my Pegasus build, it was my best effort at a log..gone in the great systems crash.

It has, its intended to replace planking the deck, but nothing prevents you from planking over it - both have been done and shown in other build logs. 

I look forward to seeing how that goes.  I’m going for the Master Shipwright version of Flirt. If it’s all boxwood I’d rather try almost anything other than walnut. 

Of course its up to you, I don't know how lime wood would hold up (as in I really don't know) and I understand boxwood and pear are out.  It was just a thought....

I guess we could do that if there was any boxwood of the right dimensions to be found in the world. Although I’m sure it be a bit pricey. Chris’ thought of lime is a good one.