glbarlow

The stern frames are installed as are the stern ports.   The ports are all painted now as it is easier to do now than later as Chuck points out in his build notes.   
 

 
The first layer of wales are placed as is the molding strip that sits just below the gun ports.   This will define the planking runs above the wales.   
 
The blue mat you see in some of my photos is something I got from Rockler Woodworking.    It limits the movement of what is placed on top of it and does not allow glue to adhere well, so it can be easily cleaned.   I not only find it very useful while model building (especially for sanding) but also when I am in need of transporting a model to a club meeting or event.   
 
 
 
 
 
The transom piece is fitted as is some filler wood at the stern.    The photo also shows the first stern plank being fitted.     
 
In hindsight:   I was not happy with the dents in the stern plank which I caused by my handling and clamping and I think I ended up replacing this one sometime afterwards or I may have been able to sand them out,  just not sure.   
 
Yellow Cedar is a wonderful wood for ship modeling, it bends well, sands well, is cost effective, has a nice color, has a wonderful smell, BUT IT IS SOFT.   Next time around I need to take much more care in handling the wood especially while clamping.    You should always use some sort of clamp protection with this wood or it will mark and sometimes mark deep enough where you can't effectively sand it out.   
 
 

Just ordered it, thanks for the recommendation and review

My post included the link for Lady Nelson,, just click on the ‘here’ hyperlink. It and my other build logs are also linked in my signature line below. However the.pdf I’m referring to is the one created by Chuck on lining the hull which is linked at the beginning of this thread.   Clicking Here should also get you there. 
 
Welcome to MSW. One suggestion is to select, by click, hold, and drag, text and then on the quote selection block that appears to generate a reply for things you want to comment on as I’ve done with your reply.  It keeps from repeating to much text but also generates a notice to the person you’re asking something of and helps them to follow the question. I use it all the time, easy and quick way to get your questions and comments before the forum.
 
There are lots of great people here ready to help you out. If you haven’t selected your first model I highly recommend Vanguard Models which you can find Here  @chris watton is an active member of this site he maintains a thread on MSW with his latest product news Here  Chuck Passaro also has great models, they are a bit more advanced, but great to visit and follow Here Find some build logs you like and follow them. I’ve learned a lot of what I know from those logs the rest I learned by doing, screwing it up, re-doing, and doing it again. 
 
Hope all this helps, again welcome.

Incredible work Rusty, the level of detail is amazing. 

Incredible work Rusty, the level of detail is amazing. 

Your photos and explanations are some of the best I’ve seen on MSW - thanks for making the effort - you should consider writing an illustrated book on shipbuilding!  Great photos!
 
garthog

Hi Bob,  I have and use both, my Lady Nelson has satin on the exterior and matte on the interior, for no real reason than that’s what I did.  I prefer the matte as a painting base, but I doubt there is any significant difference between the two, I’ve also painted over the satin in the past.  My little experiment did prove, at least to me, that water based poly is my preferred base.
Yes I do also apply steam but have the iron on the lowest heat level for steam. Here again I’d do it without steam but the little travel iron produces it and I figure it can’t hurt.  I let the board sit in the clamps for about a minute after heating and sometimes it takes two heating runs to get the curve I want.
 
I only started this method with my last build, but it makes such a huge difference in my planking I’m only sorry I didn’t find Chuck’s tutorials sooner.

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

The comments about the use of sanding sealer encouraged me to do a little experiment. So I used the same paint and applied it to a stick of my Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The counter and bulwarks will be painted red and I wanted to see what worked best.

I know it doesn't show well on the photo but there are very definite color differences and texture when applied to the different bases. Here’s what I tried from left to right using four coats of very thin Golden Cadium Red paint.
Matte Water Based Poly Golden Open Sanding Sealer Nothing Gesso So based solely on my subjective view in order worst to best: 5. I quickly ruled out sanding sealer, it closes the grain of the wood and the resulting look is glassy. It also didn’t take the multiple coats very well. 4. No base is fine, but it absorbs so much into the wood the finished look was only ok, It works better if I use thicker paint. 3. The Golden Open product took forever to dry as a base (its more for acrylics on canvas as I read about it). It also had the most negative affect on color making the red almost orange. 2. The gesso was good, but as a base it has to be sanded, way too much work around gun ports for me. It also darken the color more than I liked.
My favorite is using what I’ve always used, the water based matte poly (which is not to be confused with wipe on poly, totally different stuff). It dries quickly, seals the wood in a good way and provided the base for the best version of the Cadium Red color. Again, totally my subjective opinion, but at least I have my answer of what works for me. On a related note, I've always used Admiralty Paints, by far my favorite.  However, it doesn't come in a RED enough Red for Cheerful (Go Red or go home) so I'm using the Golden Cadium Red. I can tell from the photo the colors appear different IRL so not sure it helps much.

Hi Bob,  I have and use both, my Lady Nelson has satin on the exterior and matte on the interior, for no real reason than that’s what I did.  I prefer the matte as a painting base, but I doubt there is any significant difference between the two, I’ve also painted over the satin in the past.  My little experiment did prove, at least to me, that water based poly is my preferred base.
Yes I do also apply steam but have the iron on the lowest heat level for steam. Here again I’d do it without steam but the little travel iron produces it and I figure it can’t hurt.  I let the board sit in the clamps for about a minute after heating and sometimes it takes two heating runs to get the curve I want.
 
I only started this method with my last build, but it makes such a huge difference in my planking I’m only sorry I didn’t find Chuck’s tutorials sooner.

Here we are...just sitting and waiting...money in hand...just need James to finish... just sitting and waiting...😂🤣😂

Hi Bob,  I have and use both, my Lady Nelson has satin on the exterior and matte on the interior, for no real reason than that’s what I did.  I prefer the matte as a painting base, but I doubt there is any significant difference between the two, I’ve also painted over the satin in the past.  My little experiment did prove, at least to me, that water based poly is my preferred base.
Yes I do also apply steam but have the iron on the lowest heat level for steam. Here again I’d do it without steam but the little travel iron produces it and I figure it can’t hurt.  I let the board sit in the clamps for about a minute after heating and sometimes it takes two heating runs to get the curve I want.
 
I only started this method with my last build, but it makes such a huge difference in my planking I’m only sorry I didn’t find Chuck’s tutorials sooner.

Yes, I am just waiting for the finished model to complete the box art and manual.

She coming along very nicely, Glenn.
 
I've painted over Satin Wipe-on-Poly successfully. Have you compared the water based matte poly to the Satin WOP? Is there a reason that you prefer the water based poly?
 
I've had good luck with this method also. My travel iron is an old, non-steam iron. Do you ever apply steam at the same time or do you just wet the plank with your finger?

Welcome to the club! Very neat work on the counter, btw.
 
Derek

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

The comments about the use of sanding sealer encouraged me to do a little experiment. So I used the same paint and applied it to a stick of my Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The counter and bulwarks will be painted red and I wanted to see what worked best.

I know it doesn't show well on the photo but there are very definite color differences and texture when applied to the different bases. Here’s what I tried from left to right using four coats of very thin Golden Cadium Red paint.
Matte Water Based Poly Golden Open Sanding Sealer Nothing Gesso So based solely on my subjective view in order worst to best: 5. I quickly ruled out sanding sealer, it closes the grain of the wood and the resulting look is glassy. It also didn’t take the multiple coats very well. 4. No base is fine, but it absorbs so much into the wood the finished look was only ok, It works better if I use thicker paint. 3. The Golden Open product took forever to dry as a base (its more for acrylics on canvas as I read about it). It also had the most negative affect on color making the red almost orange. 2. The gesso was good, but as a base it has to be sanded, way too much work around gun ports for me. It also darken the color more than I liked.
My favorite is using what I’ve always used, the water based matte poly (which is not to be confused with wipe on poly, totally different stuff). It dries quickly, seals the wood in a good way and provided the base for the best version of the Cadium Red color. Again, totally my subjective opinion, but at least I have my answer of what works for me. On a related note, I've always used Admiralty Paints, by far my favorite.  However, it doesn't come in a RED enough Red for Cheerful (Go Red or go home) so I'm using the Golden Cadium Red. I can tell from the photo the colors appear different IRL so not sure it helps much.

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

The comments about the use of sanding sealer encouraged me to do a little experiment. So I used the same paint and applied it to a stick of my Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The counter and bulwarks will be painted red and I wanted to see what worked best.

I know it doesn't show well on the photo but there are very definite color differences and texture when applied to the different bases. Here’s what I tried from left to right using four coats of very thin Golden Cadium Red paint.
Matte Water Based Poly Golden Open Sanding Sealer Nothing Gesso So based solely on my subjective view in order worst to best: 5. I quickly ruled out sanding sealer, it closes the grain of the wood and the resulting look is glassy. It also didn’t take the multiple coats very well. 4. No base is fine, but it absorbs so much into the wood the finished look was only ok, It works better if I use thicker paint. 3. The Golden Open product took forever to dry as a base (its more for acrylics on canvas as I read about it). It also had the most negative affect on color making the red almost orange. 2. The gesso was good, but as a base it has to be sanded, way too much work around gun ports for me. It also darken the color more than I liked.
My favorite is using what I’ve always used, the water based matte poly (which is not to be confused with wipe on poly, totally different stuff). It dries quickly, seals the wood in a good way and provided the base for the best version of the Cadium Red color. Again, totally my subjective opinion, but at least I have my answer of what works for me. On a related note, I've always used Admiralty Paints, by far my favorite.  However, it doesn't come in a RED enough Red for Cheerful (Go Red or go home) so I'm using the Golden Cadium Red. I can tell from the photo the colors appear different IRL so not sure it helps much.

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

The comments about the use of sanding sealer encouraged me to do a little experiment. So I used the same paint and applied it to a stick of my Alaskan Yellow Cedar. The counter and bulwarks will be painted red and I wanted to see what worked best.

I know it doesn't show well on the photo but there are very definite color differences and texture when applied to the different bases. Here’s what I tried from left to right using four coats of very thin Golden Cadium Red paint.
Matte Water Based Poly Golden Open Sanding Sealer Nothing Gesso So based solely on my subjective view in order worst to best: 5. I quickly ruled out sanding sealer, it closes the grain of the wood and the resulting look is glassy. It also didn’t take the multiple coats very well. 4. No base is fine, but it absorbs so much into the wood the finished look was only ok, It works better if I use thicker paint. 3. The Golden Open product took forever to dry as a base (its more for acrylics on canvas as I read about it). It also had the most negative affect on color making the red almost orange. 2. The gesso was good, but as a base it has to be sanded, way too much work around gun ports for me. It also darken the color more than I liked.
My favorite is using what I’ve always used, the water based matte poly (which is not to be confused with wipe on poly, totally different stuff). It dries quickly, seals the wood in a good way and provided the base for the best version of the Cadium Red color. Again, totally my subjective opinion, but at least I have my answer of what works for me. On a related note, I've always used Admiralty Paints, by far my favorite.  However, it doesn't come in a RED enough Red for Cheerful (Go Red or go home) so I'm using the Golden Cadium Red. I can tell from the photo the colors appear different IRL so not sure it helps much.

Ok, this will be my last log update before I post the finished photos in a few weeks.
 
I'm now on the rigging stage, but thought I'd keep you up to date with what to expect of HMS Flirt, when the kit is released.
 
Flirt will come with an optional launch, except for the Master Shipwright version which will have it as standard. This is built on an upside down jig and planked into 1mm x 2mm pear strips and then fitted out, including anchors, rudder, pikes, oars etc. I admit I loathe making these little things, but I'm happy with the result! The launch will only temporarily sat on the model as it will be removed for the kit instructions and box art.
 

 

 

 
 
Now it's time to concentrate my efforts on the lower mast tops. These are different in size, so it's important not to get them mixed up, as I almost did!

 

 
 
All mast sections are now tapered, squared-off etc. and then test fitted. 

 

 
 
More woodwork as the yards and booms are made. When finished, all parts are coated with polyurethane varnish and then masked before areas are sprayed in Plastikote Black. A further coat of varnish is applied over the black areas so they have the same sheen as the bare timber. Mast bands etc. are added using black cartridge paper. The masts and yards can finally be fitted out with blocks.

 

 

 

 

 
 
Rigging begins with the bowsprit, spritsail boom and boomkins. This differs a lot to the Speedy kit. Note also there is no flying jibboom on Flirt. There are different, significant changes between Flirt as she's depicted in her early rigging style, and the later rig depicted in the Speedy kit. The masts are then drilled to accept the yard pins which will help keep everything in place whilst I rig. The yards are only temporarily fitted for this post. 

The masts are then glued into position, pending the shrouds being fitted.

 

 
 
Catch you when I've rigged her...
 
😆

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.

Every stern on every model I’ve ever done has been an adventure, they rarely come out the way the plans show, I have to improvise and adapt to make them work, and have fun doing it. I expected the challenge of the scratch built Cheerful to be no different - but I was wrong.  This is probably the first stern that came together just the way it’s supposed to. Not that it was easy and I still had a few challenges, but Chuck’s design, for lack of a more elaborate description, - works as planned.
 
But to be fair I haven’t figured out the square tuck yet, 😂

 
Reducing the frames in the last post was hold my breath time but wasn’t that hard with the process I described. Then it’s just a matter of planking up the counter.
 

 
The first plank is a challenge because the counter is curved both in and down. But thanks to my Chuck Passaro plank bending station it’s a problem quickly solved. No way that plank was bending with out some help. The benefit of Chuck’s method is there is no soaking or its potential for warping. Rub a wet finger along the board and the steam travel iron and clamps do the work heating the bent board into shape. If you haven’t tried this method I highly recommend you search out the instructional videos here on MSW and give it a try.
 
I gave a little more information and detail on using this technique in my Lady Nelson log if you’re interested.
 

 
I’m a CA planking guy, no clamps to hold PVA for me. With the bent plank (and the lower side of each beveled for a tighter fit), a little CA, and 30 seconds of finger pressure… plank complete, on to the next. In no time I was up to the transom and doing some sanding.
 

 
Here’s a thing to remember - the inward side of the counter is also a final product, it won't be covered, so be neat with the glue. The reverse side result of the beveling looks like Shiplap and adds a little character. It’s a good time to use some sanding sticks on the counter, much easier to get at it than after transom is on.
 

 
The transom is a little more fun than the counter, having to fit the planks around the stern ports. Since I plan to have these closed I left a little larger rabbit for the port lids to grab onto, I may leave them, or one of them, open - I still have the option later to decide. The third row is fun since it has to be cut to fit over the top fourth of the ports. I elected to use a 7/32nds plank on the top instead of a fourth 3/16ths one. I liked the look better and it gave a little more clearance above the top fo the frames inside.
 

 
Back to the inside of the transom to sand a little to remove any excess glue. Unlike the natural transom outboard, the inside will be painted red eventually so it doesn’t require extensive effort. I’m glad I sanded and shaped up the stern frames before they were installed, I’d hate to be removing laser char at this stage. I have already learned from building the winch my Cadium Red won’t hide laser char. Eventually I’ll be cutting a hole in here for the rudder, which should provide another hold my breath moment.
 
Now to cut some fashion pieces having only a #11 blade, maybe the jewelers saw to do it. Anyone want to hazard a guess how many I’ll do before I get two I can use?
 
On another note, I ordered a Proxxon MF70 micro mill today - I think Cheerful will provide me some opportunities to learn how to use it since I haven’t the slightest clue, though thanks to Delf for giving me some pointers. MSW is certainly a worldwide resource of talented people.