glbarlow

Beautiful work!
 
Can you plank mine for me😂

Any creative ideas about how to maintain a 1/64th inch gap above, below, and alongside the ports? 
 
I did cut my first run of 3/64" thick planks from 3/16, 1/16 and 5/32 lumber, I'm a bit proud of that having never done that before in volume. Again I will say the Yellow Cedar flew through the saw, and I'm typing with ten fingers. 

Thanks Glenn.  Winston & Newton Galeria acrylic brand with the color crimson.  Although I have never used them my daughter who paints uses Grumbacher brand and seems to like them.  I may try them on next model which may just be the Cheerful.  Following you as you get started has me looking forward to the next one.  I still have  much to do with this one before I make that decision 
 
 
Recent progress

Nice work on this detailed model, it looks great. I like your choice of ‘red.’  What did you use?

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

Sometimes I just have to stop and reorganize, I have stuff everywhere. 
 
I do like those files, thanks again for the recommendation. 

Good observation. All the sides of the gun ports run perpendicular to the water. Per the plans gun port sills on 4-6 do slant upward following the run of the deck so you’re right about the slant but it’s correct per the design. Chuck included reference lines on the bulkhead. I just had to match the top of the sills to each mark. 4 does seem to stand out more in the photo, but it’s the same as 5 & 6. 
 
I think the spacer bars, which are more or less straight, accent the slant and not in a good way. They’re ugly but I hope helpful later in the build. If you look at the previous post of the port side the slant is there but looks more ‘elegant’ without the spacer bars. 
 
Thanks for the comment. Everything about this build is new to me, I’ll take all the help I can get. 

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

Everything looks great! The symmetry of the chase ports looks wonderful. I do like all of your sanding options. The files with the flat side are really nice.
 
There is one question I have though. When looking at the first picture it looks like the third gun port from aft appears to be slanted forward somehow. The one between bulkhead six and seven as measured from aft. I’m not sure if it’s a weird illusion from the camera which sometimes happens but it appears as the forward edge is lower than the aft edge. I know some of the spacer blocks are crooked because they dont matter and it might be they are  just throwing off the eye.
 
edit: I also am wondering about the square tuck = triangle shape thing

Very neat work. I'm glad you're getting on well with the Swiss files - you'll be on commission from Vallorbe soon!
 
Derek
 
P.S.   Looking at the last picture, I see you're getting as untidy as me 😁
 
 

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

Good observation. All the sides of the gun ports run perpendicular to the water. Per the plans gun port sills on 4-6 do slant upward following the run of the deck so you’re right about the slant but it’s correct per the design. Chuck included reference lines on the bulkhead. I just had to match the top of the sills to each mark. 4 does seem to stand out more in the photo, but it’s the same as 5 & 6. 
 
I think the spacer bars, which are more or less straight, accent the slant and not in a good way. They’re ugly but I hope helpful later in the build. If you look at the previous post of the port side the slant is there but looks more ‘elegant’ without the spacer bars. 
 
Thanks for the comment. Everything about this build is new to me, I’ll take all the help I can get. 

Good observation. All the sides of the gun ports run perpendicular to the water. Per the plans gun port sills on 4-6 do slant upward following the run of the deck so you’re right about the slant but it’s correct per the design. Chuck included reference lines on the bulkhead. I just had to match the top of the sills to each mark. 4 does seem to stand out more in the photo, but it’s the same as 5 & 6. 
 
I think the spacer bars, which are more or less straight, accent the slant and not in a good way. They’re ugly but I hope helpful later in the build. If you look at the previous post of the port side the slant is there but looks more ‘elegant’ without the spacer bars. 
 
Thanks for the comment. Everything about this build is new to me, I’ll take all the help I can get. 

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

Right, all new fittings have been laser cut and some are already available on the website, with the cannon and capstans coming online very soon.
 
I just finished cutting the final capstan parts, the 20mm high 64th single and the 72nd scale double. Both come with a length of walnut dowel long enough for the capstans and well over a full deck down.
 
Also, I have just started laser cutting the standard Flirt parts, starting with 1mm pearwood. I cut these one sheet at a time (same as the Master Shipwright parts in boxwood) and check each carefully after cutting. I have added a pic of the first sheet cut, both top and bottom views, using my new magnetic 'nail bed'

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

I'm really happy to see you are doing a build log on this wonderful, working vessel. I'll be following along.
 
I curious about the laser etched deck. I'm relatively new to the hobby and have never seen one personally. How would you say it compares to models where you planked the deck? I am concerned that it just might look so perfect that it wouldn't be very realistic.
 
I just started to build the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina. I think this legendary, ocean racing sailboat is stunningly beautiful. I've had it on the shelf for a year and, like you, decided to do something a bit less intensive before I commit to a more complex build. However, as I continue to read and research the Pen Duick, I am finding things that I want to change to improve the model and it is becoming more involved than I originally thought it would be. I imagine that the same will happen to you as you read your books about these fishing vessels and see photos of things may decide to tweak. 
 
I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. Chris has made a great looking model.

My Fifie is arriving today. As a newbie I find myself studying other builds on this site to gain knowledge and see what other build challenges and success others are having. I looked at the build log by James H and thought that this would be a good beginner model for me. After visiting the Vanguard Model website and reading the manual I ordered the ship. I have to compliment Chris Watton on his website design. He includes the manual on the website for his ship offerings. This allowed me to read thru the manual. The level of detail for this ship is just what I need right now as a beginner in this hobby. My current build plans and instructions lack the detail I would have wanted as a newbie and is making things difficult for me. Also there are no build logs of the ship I am working on. So the info you can provide in your build will be very helpful I believe to someone like me.

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

You'll want to close that gap at the bottom before adding a plank. I cut the shape of the bow from a scrap piece of wood using the plans as a template. I can put the soaked wood on it and clamp the heck out of it so its a tight fit. If you keep going from here make sure to get clamps down at the bottom to get it tight on the frame.
 
The first rule of modeling is when you think you have enough clamps, go buy more clamps.
 
You're having fun now....

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.

Now interesting stuff starts to happen, or interesting for me anyway.

Failing to find an outsourcer, (I didn’t really look, I instead did my isometric exercises Sand On, Sand Off) I spent a couple of days sanding to get to this point. I concluded it was time to stop and get the ports in before I sanded away the bulkhead extensions.

Lining up the ports is so much more easy thanks to the reference lines Chuck provides on the starter kit bulkheads. I’m not sure I’d started this project if I had to cut them out myself, where’s the fun. I was prepared to make micro adjustments by measuring and doing the look test but frankly it was near spot on just with tacking the batton to the reference lines, though I still measured and looked to be sure.

I later met with near disaster when I started the starboard side. The hard part of this task is getting the pushpins to stay in the bulkhead extension, I pushed a little hard and snap.:-/ I pinned it back with an inserted brass rod and splinted it up. It’s not so pretty now, but it will be covered up soon enough. I should know how to avoid this mistake, stupid pushpin, and I was even pre-drilling the holes…Oh well, I’ll be sure to check the fairing closely, though I tried to account for that as I repaired it.
 
Modelers don’t panic, we adapt, overcome, and improvise - Clint Eastwood  in Heartbreak Ridge would approve.

I started doing testing what color red I am going to use. I’ve always used Admiralty Paints but their only red - Ensign Red - just wasn’t red enough and Cheerful has to be red, right.  To be clear, I really like red with this ship. I settled on Golden Cadium. Go Red or Go Home. I’ve since tested it on a piece of Yellow Cedar thinned down and multiple coats (7 so far), I like the look of it.

As I installed the lower port sill I made sure they were level with the hull, my many variations of little levels make this easy. I was working from outside in so I could have room for the clamps. There is a little fun beveling to get the outer ones to fit the shape of the hull, just a little bit.

I went ahead and thinned down the bow port filler to about 1/8 with my Dremel after reading ahead in Chuck’s practicum, then cut the port. One of my many uses of left over MDF from past kits is in this case making port sizers. So yay, the chase port is a square smooth 17/32 like it’s suppose to be. I’m still having trouble adapting to imperial measurements, this is my first time not using metric. I’ll say it again, metric just makes so much more sense to me. Why is the US still stuck…he said rhetorically.

Here is where I as a kit builder knew I wasn’t in Kansas anymore. The sides of the gun ports call for multiple, seven to be precise, different sizes to match up to the plan location and size for the ports between the bulkheads. This I where kits wouldn’t go, they’d be limited to a few sizes of stock wood, and of course gun port patterns. It took me a second to wrap my head around the fact I was no longer limited by what stock wood is included in a typical kit.
 
I purchased the wood package from Chuck, this lovely bundle of Alaskan Yellow Cedar billets comes in multiple sizes, six of the seven needed were in the package. I used my Byrnes saw to rip ¼ inch widths of 1/32, 1/16. 3/32, 5/16, 1/8, 5/16 (all in the package). For the last one I just took one a piece of the 5/16 square piece I’d already ripped for the port sill and cut it to the called for 3/16. See how I did all that imperial thing there…
 
I will say once again the best tool I ever bought for model building is my Byrnes saw. Now, with a little help from Chuck, Rusty, and Jim Byrnes, that I know how to properly rip a plank with the proper blade, I’m cutting and ripping whatever I need with joy in my heart and fingers still attached to my hands. If you don’t own a Byrnes saw, buy one. You’ll never regret it. (Though I learned he’s on Covid hold until the end of June for new orders waiting for his supplier to deliver 120v engines, he still has 220v).

I made a longer gunport checker for the gun ports, which I will also use to make sure they are lined up with the other side. I also use it to double check the two side pieces will create the called for 7/32 opening. That whole measure twice cut once thing. I also determined I didn’t need the pieces quite this tall…


So here she is with the port side ported and faired. The batten lays smoothly top to bottom. Now that I’ve splinted my broken bulkhead extension work can begin on the starboard side. Comments and feedback welcome.
 
It will be a day or two before I can get back at it again, I still have to process my granddaughter’s 7th birthday portraits as part of my other photography hobby. On a side note, if you ever want to make a 7 year old's day, prevented from having a normal birthday party by Covid and 2020 catch phrases like lock down and social distancing, hold a car parade. Her parents arranged to have her friends and family do a slow drive-by their house honking horns, holding signs, and making noise. She got to see friends she hasn't seen since schools were closed in early March, her teacher participated as well. I have an English friend who shared the Facebook video with the very true statement "if this doesn't cheer you up, nothing will." She was sooo happy. And as a result, so was I.

Two quick posts to get started, they may come a bit slower from here.


I’ve cut a lot of bearding lines but never so easily as I did this time.  On the recommendation of another MSWer as part of a discussion about using square stock for masts I ordered this IBEX flat finger plane. It is pricy but well worth it. I’ve tried planes in the past with no luck other than gouging up wood, but this small little tool made short work of creating the bearding line.
 
I never toss stands from past models, this one I made for Vanguard is a perfect fit, so yay. A block of wood, some curved shoe molding backed by 1x1 strip covered with felt. Build board done.

I followed the stern reference mark on one side of the hull and with tracing paper transferred it to the other side. The plane slides easily to make the taper down to the rabbit strip. Maybe too easy. I may have gotten a little too much angle. I’m thinking that will be ok…won’t it…I can’t put it back on….

I removed the stem pieces from the billet and initially was a little disappointed. I have no experience with Alaska Yellow Cedar. I did some test some WOP on billet scrap and wasn’t seeing it. But I knew there was beautiful wood there somewhere - and there was. There is a Lot of char to remove and sanding to do, a lot of work with 220 and 320 grade sandpaper since I didn’t want to risk taking too much or alter the shape of the stem pieces.
 
After a considerable amount of work (not complaining, I’m not on a schedule) there it was - the Alaskan Cedar is better than anything I’ve seen, it is very nice. A bit lighter color than boxwood, it feels almost like a piece of ivory when sanded smooth. I’m looking forward to working more with it as the ship progresses. 


I followed Chuck’s practicum by adding the simulated tree nails using a #76 bit, #2 pencil and natural wood filler, I simulated caulking between the joints of the stem also with the pencil. I have some charcoal pencils I’ve used in the past but I think subtlety here is the name of the game, a little pencil goes a long way. I finished the night putting the first coat of poly on the stem and keel, big impact on color and grain showing up.

One practice I’ve followed for every model I’ve built is addressing the display mounting very early, no different for Cheerful. I already have the display board, 12" walnut. I’ll figure out the pedestals later, the ones shown are my stock that may not work. However this was a great time to drill the holes through the keel. I use these machine screws, long enough for the board, pedestals, and to go past the keel into the frame, I epoxy them in eventually, no nut needed (other than the builder).
 
All I needed to do now is drill the holes in the keel, once its securely mounted to the frame I’ll extend the depth of the holes an inch or more into the frame. Then years from now when I finally finish this epic build it will be simple to complete the display mount. A lot easier than trying to turn over a completed ship. I like my models firmly secured to a display board verses a cradle and if I change my mind the holes aren’t going to show…
 
Now on to mounting the stem and installing the bulkheads. 

While I still have fine tuning to do, I’ve completed the ports and fairing on both sides. The second side went in easier since I had a little experience, I’d also cut some of the pieces by duplicating the fit on the port side before I installed them, making finding the size and angles easier on the stern ports. In the foreground are the various sized wood I ripped to make the ports - I’m sure the remainder will come in handy later.
 
You can see I’ve added some ugly, casually placed reinforcement between bulkheads without ports. I took this from Rusty’s log sort of, his were much neater. I used 1/16 and put them close to the outside after doing the fairing. I’m anticipating some challenging sanding on the inward side later, these are more preparation for that. Of course they’ll be covered by planking and if the get in the way they’ll be easy to remove. So I sacrificed form for function, there went my pretty faired ship.

A lot of doing the second side is keeping it equal in all ways to the first side, my little port leveler made sure I had the ports aligned and the sills on opposing sides level with each other. I even measured the width of the remaining bulkheads at the stern and bow so I don’t end up with a lopsided ship. I may still end up that way, but this helps reduce my chances. Everything measured up fine, once again a testament to the design. I am taking it very slow and careful with this frame - hopefully that pays off later.

My other consistency jig was my “port sizer” I had the wood gauges to use as I was building - my last step was take a square jig - reduced in size just enough so it was 17/32 including the 320 grit sandpaper wrap.  While I was close for the most part, using this little tool to run through and through settled all my ports to be consistent in size, including the chase ports up front where it really came in handy.

My tool of choice for cutting the chase ports was my Razor Saw. As Chuck advised, I cut inside the line and short of the bottom, used my #11 blade to clear and my port sizer to size after first using some sanding sticks to get it close.  I measured the port side to the plans, I was more focused on matching the starboard to the port - remarkably they came out the same. How’d that happen - oh I measured a lot.
 
I will confess I was working in millimeters. I’m trying to be a good imperial boy, but I fall back to the MM ruler every time I need to measure something close. I’m still trying to get my head around numerator/denominator measuring. I wasn't listening during the fractions portion of my elementary education.
 
I know some have opted to line the chase port with wood. I have elected not to do so, though I thought about it. The wood to me is so smooth and the cut so square I’m ok painting it as it is.

Speaking of which, here is my earlier mentioned choice of Golden Cadium. It’s not quite as bright as this photo, but it is very red and I’m ok with that. 

Finally, here is my collection of various tools and sanders I used for this stage of the build. I instantly regretted piling it on my ship. The flexible 3M holder was used for the heavy lifting. It has velcro face and matching sandpaper, I used 80, 120, and 220 with it. The yellow handle has the same velcro connector, I used it for tighter quarters and fine tuning. The sanding sticks, 120, 220, and 320 grit for even more fine tuning and opening the ports. I will finish the ports with a fine stick before painting. 
 
I discovered these Vallorbe Barrette files on Derek’s Speedy build log, they are really great. They file only on one side, I have them in coarse and medium. I’ve always had an issue with a standard flat file since it files on the side edge as well. These eliminate that issue, important when you’re trying to square something up, like a port. I also prefer the triangular file for corners as opposed to the square one for the same reason, I can file the side I want without impacting the other and the point of the triangle cuts a nice corner. I have so many versions of needle files, they are now tossed in a drawer. I now have a full set these Swiss Vallorbe files, they are sharp and cut evenly. I also highly recommend them. There is my file lesson for the day.
 
So I feel a stern is coming, see what I did there. Uh Oh, more new ground for me. Here I can ponder such questions as why is a square tuck a triangle. I won’t get ahead of myself. First I have to attach and fair some stern brackets without breaking anything.