glbarlow

I believe we have to absorb the tariff for Ben’s rope but I may be wrong. 
 
Every time you mention retirement the hoarders come out. 😞🫣

Nice tight fit, well done!

I believe we have to absorb the tariff for Ben’s rope but I may be wrong. 
 
Every time you mention retirement the hoarders come out. 😞🫣

LOL....I can see me at the ripe old age of 85 making 75-100 packages of rope a day!!!  7 days a week.   It has to end at some point.   Ben makes a great rope too!!!   Or as I have mentioned.   Its so easy to make your own and it will cost you pennies.   No waiting on the postman either.  Give it a try.   Its funny actually.  I have sold a rope walk to a lot of people (probably 6-700 or more) and I still see those same guys buying my rope instead.   I have to scratch my head.
 
It is so easy with a little practice.  Its not rope rocket science.  And it will be just as good if not better.  I think I have to teach more folks to fish.  Maybe I will release my rope walk plans/files so folks can make their own or go get them laser cut somewhere...more people should try and make their own. 
 
Chuck
 


 
 

I believe we have to absorb the tariff for Ben’s rope but I may be wrong. 
 
Every time you mention retirement the hoarders come out. 😞🫣

Seriously how about a limit per purchase. This hoarding is a detriment to us all.

Seriously how about a limit per purchase. This hoarding is a detriment to us all.

Seriously how about a limit per purchase. This hoarding is a detriment to us all.

Thank you Steve,
Yes I’m afraid I have that detail, fit & finish syndrome which slows me down a lot, but only then gives me full satisfaction. Lots of techniques and detail also is new to me, so I’m also very careful not to ruin Chuck’s lovely parts.
Today, Sunday, I have some time to make some progress in chapter 5 again. I’m now at making the port lids fit…
Frank.

Thanks Ronald, Steve and the likes,
Just finished fitting the first four port lids.
It’s 20:00u in Holland, so I call it a day now.
Frank.
 

Seriously how about a limit per purchase. This hoarding is a detriment to us all.

Very precise work. Well done. 

Very clever approach to using the scrappers. 
 
The fit and finish on the bow, including the planking is exceptional work.  Well done. 

Very precise work. Well done. 

Very precise work. Well done. 

Very precise work. Well done. 

That is what I prefer to do for my own models if I wasnt commercially making a kit of course.   The folks who buy the kit get the perfect one but I will go in a rework it a bit before I glue it in position.  I like to make the print look like it has a few carved faces and I do some undercutting to make it look better when the light hits your finished carving.   Some careful cutting around the softer details makes them crisper as well.
 
OK folks....you can also try HITEM3D
 
This still has a free option and its also returning high quality and resolution prints....This is the only other site that I like the resolution and print quality.  They also have the ability to upload multiple images of different views to make your rendering more accurate.   The results are actually slightly different as this algorithm returns a slightly more stylized rendering.   But they look great and you can download them.
 
 

Here are 3 views in the Chitbox slicer...and yes for a figurehead you still have to bring it into another program like blender and cut a slot for the stem.   Or you could do this by hand and just file out a slot after printing.   I hate Blender and other CAD programs and just cant get the hang of it.
 

 
 
 
 
 

I have the QG closed in and all trim complete with the exception of the the fluted columns.  I'm going to hold off on these until I can do the same detail on the transom at the same time.
 
Also have the shingles on the roof as well as the drops installed under the galleries.  I'm pretty happy with how things have turned out so far.  The window fit is good.  The windows are just set in for now.  I'll be removing them and waiting to install them at a later time.
 

 
I also did a little painting on the transom then added the frieze to the upper portion as well as the fancy molding around the top edge.  There is one small gap in between the pieces on the upper middle left.  Fortunately this will be covered later.
 

 
Also prepping some more of the resin carvings for placement on the model.  I have been very pleasantly surprised at how well these look after following Chuck's instructions on using the fruitwood gel stain.  I brush a liberal amount of stain on the piece and wipe it off with a clean rag about a minute later.  I then found that if I work the piece with a clean dry brush a couple times over the next hour or two that the stain evens out and lightens up a little more.  The more you work a spot with the dry brush, the lighter it gets.
 

 
Plan is to fabricate and install the cove on the transom, then work on the fluted columns.  I'll also be painting the upper portion of the stem and the bollard timbers prior to adding the side moldings and friezes.
 
Steve

I completed the moldings and friezes for the lower portion of the QG, upper counter, and lower counter
 
Had to redo the upper counter frieze due to not leaving good enough alone.  I was done and happy until I saw a small spot that needed trimming.  Managed to take off too much of the frieze leaving a big spot of white paper in its place.  Time to rip it off and do it again.. 
 
I discovered a use for my used, dull chisel x-acto blades.  They make good blanks for scrapers.  
 
Adding the facilities to the QG and then I'll start in on closing them up.
 
Steve
 

 

 

 

First couple of planks below the channel wales installed, taking time to carefully leave the 1/32” reveal around the gunports.
 

 
 
 
 

Looks very nice Ben, glad to see you back at it. The boxwood looks great on there!

I looked on Amazon to find many and a wide variation of 3D printers. Thoughts and suggestions for a good, easy to use,  one to make ship model sized parts?

Thanks, yes they are on the 4 ultra now but sill around. $300. 
 
I’m looking forward to your tutorial on fittings. 

I am using an Elegoo Saturn 3.   Like everything else,  as soon as you buy one they will come out with a new version.  I believe they are up to Saturn 4 Ultra now.  But most of the printers are excellent these days.  It just depends on how large a printing area you need.  If its strictly for ship model parts then you dont have to go big.  
 
last I checked the Saturn 3 was around $300 more or less depending on if it was on sale or not.
 
I have 3 of these machines right now all the same so I can interchange spare parts.  I probably need a fourth.  
 
 
But one is all you will need.  
 
I do have a wash station but never use it because our parts are too tiny.  So I use the 2 and 3 container method with IPA.  This will be described in my group forum for printing the capstan parts.  
 
Its a lot like buying an ink jet printer…the printers arent that expensive but they get you on buying the resin.
 
You can buy a bottle of resin for $18 or you can spend $100.  They all print differently and its a matter of picking the brand and type you need based on your application.  
 
For example,  my general resin cost about $20 per.   My belaying pin and small part resin cost $38 per.  My block resin is pushing $95 per.  
 
Luckily you get a lot of blocks out of one bottle.  
 
90% Alcohol is also not bad depending on how much you print.  I print a lot.  So I buy 4 gallons at a time every 6 weeks or so.   But seriously if you are just printing stuff for your own model then one gallon will last a while.
 
Chuck

Very clever approach to using the scrappers. 
 
The fit and finish on the bow, including the planking is exceptional work.  Well done.