glbarlow

Chapter 12 covers any minor deviations at the bow. I also really enjoyed chapter 3 after months on planking and infrastructure. 

Chapter 12 covers any minor deviations at the bow. I also really enjoyed chapter 3 after months on planking and infrastructure. 

Chapter 12 covers any minor deviations at the bow. I also really enjoyed chapter 3 after months on planking and infrastructure. 

Chapter 3 is now complete, took about 6 weeks to work through it.  I had a lot of fun learning how to create and use scrapers for the first time to make the fancy moldings.  It was very satisfying to work through this chapter as almost every part added brought the exterior of the model to life.  However my patience was tried more than once with all the tiny pieces involved in the tops and bottoms of the fluted columns.
 
QG shots showing the now complete look with the rails in the roofs added.  I will likely come back and add fancy molding above the windows once I permanently install the windows much later in the build.  Right now they are just placed in position with friction holding them in.
 


 
Included previous picture of the complete stern.

 
And some pictures along the sides of the hull.  I've known that my gun ports are slightly high since I completed chapter 1.  The friezes and moldings worked out but I will have a little more work cutting in relief for the gun port hinges into the molding on a couple of these in future.  I also placed the joints in the upper molding at the catheads on the bow and at one of the swivel gun locations at the stern.  You can also see where the channels will be located.
 


 
Another minor mistake from chapter 1 is that the bollard timbers are a little low.  I lined up the opening for the bowsprit with the top of the stem in chapter 1 which ended up being a little low.  I ended up removing a little material from the bottoms of the timbers when I should have just left it alone.    The bottom side molding therefore lands a little high on the bow.  Only those who know what it should look like will ever be able to tell.
 

 
Now on to chapter 4
 
Steve

Frank,
After winding the wire on the bit I slipped the coil off and cut the rings with a high quality flush cutting wire cutters I get from a jewelers making website. It’s just about holding the cutters 90 degrees to the coil and cutting a few at a time. There is a little bit of waste for the first and last few, but I made hundreds this way.
 
I have the razor saw and it is useful in many other ways, I tried cutting the rings with it but was less successful than with the fine edge cutters. Jewelers tools are excellent for modeling, especially metal work.
 
I made the lid rings and eyebolts the same way as the ones on the deck but with 28 gauge 

A lot like drilling holes for multiple strips and eyelets on the hull you spent almost a year planking. Not much opportunity for recovery. 

Frank,
After winding the wire on the bit I slipped the coil off and cut the rings with a high quality flush cutting wire cutters I get from a jewelers making website. It’s just about holding the cutters 90 degrees to the coil and cutting a few at a time. There is a little bit of waste for the first and last few, but I made hundreds this way.
 
I have the razor saw and it is useful in many other ways, I tried cutting the rings with it but was less successful than with the fine edge cutters. Jewelers tools are excellent for modeling, especially metal work.
 
I made the lid rings and eyebolts the same way as the ones on the deck but with 28 gauge 

Frank,
After winding the wire on the bit I slipped the coil off and cut the rings with a high quality flush cutting wire cutters I get from a jewelers making website. It’s just about holding the cutters 90 degrees to the coil and cutting a few at a time. There is a little bit of waste for the first and last few, but I made hundreds this way.
 
I have the razor saw and it is useful in many other ways, I tried cutting the rings with it but was less successful than with the fine edge cutters. Jewelers tools are excellent for modeling, especially metal work.
 
I made the lid rings and eyebolts the same way as the ones on the deck but with 28 gauge 

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀

I looked on Amazon to find many and a wide variation of 3D printers. Thoughts and suggestions for a good, easy to use,  one to make ship model sized parts?

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀

Working on my build today and decided to take a break from applying the friezes and post some progress pictures from the past 10 days or so.
 
I completed the fluted columns and remaining transom details.
 

 
Then jumped into working on the fancy moldings and friezes along the sides.  I liked the approach I saw in both Frank's and Greg's build logs where they built up the  channels and used them to lay out the placement of the center molding to prevent needing to remove large pieces of glued-on molding later.
 
I built up the channels from the chapter 11 parts per the instructions.  Never used the spray mount before but it was really easy to use and worked well.
 

 
I then made up some patterns from the assembled channels to use in placing the center molding.
 

 
Back to scraping the center molding.  This one took 3 tries to get the width of the scraper correct.  I kept making it too wide.  I now clamp the work piece on my table and push the scraper along with both hands to control the angle of the scraper and make nice smooth linear passes.
 

 
Locating the channels along the hull and positioning the spacers.
 

 
Mounting the center molding.  Testing to see if there is such a thing as too many clamps...
 

 
Friezes mounted on starboard side.  Still need to mount the lower frieze on the port side.  Between the slight stretching of the paper, and the fact that the port and starboard sides will be slightly different lengths, I'm going to need to squeeze or stretch the segments a little to match the start and end positions to match the starboard.  I'll pick aspects of the frieze design that are forgiving to this adjustment and hide them under the channels.
 

 
Next steps will be to wrap up chapter 3 with the lower & upper moldings and the rails on the QG roof.
 
Steve

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

And finally....those pastel weathering powders can be applied to good effect.  On that very same test wheel with the wet on wet wash.  I then applied some white and gray pastel powder to two of the spokes.   I am sure you have seen those wheels on contemporary models where the spokes are made from ivory but the wheel rim and center drum are boxwood.   This is an easy effect to make with weathering powders or even paint if the wheel is a decent shape and color to begin with.  I have no idea why most companies who sell 3d printed parts insist on using that battleship gray color.   So many more possibilities when you use a tan or wood colored resin to begin with.
 
Can you imagine what this wheel would look like if all the spokes were treated to look like ivory.  Its a little blown out in the photo because of my bright lights on the work bench.  But you get the idea.  This took me about 2 minutes.  You just have to be careful not to get the powder everywhere else and blow it off.  Dont brush it off the areas you dont want weathered.  
 

 
OK I guess I have to make more rope and blocks now and stop playing around and procrastinating.   UGH!!!
 
17 items out of stock today.

A very watered down paint, often with additives that help it flow into the recesses. It pools in the recesses increasing the definition of cracks. You can build it up in layers to increase the contrast. Often the second stage in the (very simplified) model painting process: base layer -> wash -> highlight.
 
Edit, it seems I should have read all the subsequent posts before I answered, chuck beat me to it

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀

I love the effect of weathering powder, especially on turning resin cannon to a realistic gun metal color, oddly using Rusty Brown ( a Chuck trick I learned building Cheerful).  However it’s messy and at least in my case has to be applied to parts off the model. This approach would seem to allow a more ‘target specific’ alternative and maybe not end up everywhere like, again for me, the jar of powders do. 

And while we are discussing finishing techniques.  Many of you have seen me use weathering powders for a million different things on a ship model.  
 
weathering powders are great but they are ridiculously expensive.  I still use traditional weathering powder sold in small jars.  But for several years now I have switched to artists powder pastels.  They can be quite expensive too.  But a medium quality set works just as well for our applications.  
 
I use a sanding stick as my palette or a small square of sandpaper.  The pastels will last you forever and come in a much wider range of colors suitable for our ship models.  Look at all the variations of browns and yellows and ochre shades.  I use them everywhere including on my 3d printed parts so they can look like wood.  
 
just rub the pastel on the sanding stick.  You would be surprised how much fine pigment powder this makes.  
 
Then use a dry paint brush or “stomp” to pick up the powder and apply to your part.  
 
Yes you can even dip your brush in some water to give it a more painted or different look.  This also helps it settle i to the grooves and cracks much like the wet on wet acrylic technique.
 
sorry for the long post I I hope you find this useful and might try it some day.
 
This pastel set cost me $20 on Amazon.  It comes with about 75 colors.  Try and buy that many jars of weathering powder and see what it will cost you.
 

A wet on wet wash is just what it says.   The opposite of a dry brush technique.
 
The surface to be painted is wet down pretty good before you start with just water.   I work on a third of the wheel at a time to avoid it drying out.  Then take another brush....smallish with a point so you can apply some very thin and wet paint to the already wet surface.  It will spread out through the already wet field and not be very opaque.   Brush it around in areas you want to hilight with a darker color like in the grooves.   Then before it dries still, take the original brush which is clean hopefully and while it is dryish...just damp from being wiped on a cloth, run the brush over the areas you want to erase the darker color.  It will soak up the unwanted brown color and reveal the brighter resin under it.   Easy Peasy....but yes you have to first try it.   Then you will know.   
 
Its an alternative to weathering powders or even the gel stain.   There are so many ways to achieve what you want as a finish on these items.
 
Chuck

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀

For those of us that failed art class please explain this😀

Scraping molding was a trial for me as well, but it’s kinda fun once you get the hang of it. Yours are well done. It’s one of those details that really stands out on the completed model.