Thanasis
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Thanasis got a reaction from MarisStella.hr in TRAJTA by MarisStella.hr - FINISHED - fishing and cargo boat from Korčula, Croatia
Hello MarisStella. Thank you for this interesting story of "Trajta".
Well, I didn't see it but among the other nations which are claiming the "trata" as their traditional vessel, you can list the Greece as well....
We call it as "Trata", and has been served by our fishermen in many sizes with or without sails.
Unfortunately there isn't any provided kit, so the modelers here have to make it from scratch.
I'll follow your built log with interesting..
Thx
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Thanasis got a reaction from Albuk in Bracera (Brazzera) by Albuk
Hi Alex. You're doing beautiful work on your model and I like that you don't stay on what is provided with the kit..
As about the colored glasses, consider whether you can use part of a colored ballpoint pen (from the crystal tube) or from the curved side of a colored lighter.
Keep up the good work
Thx
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Thanasis got a reaction from Doreltomin in Strange objects on H.M.S. Monarch, anyone know what they are?
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Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Per in Strange objects on H.M.S. Monarch, anyone know what they are?
Ok. I made some additional search and I have found the answer...
According to the book "Anatomy of the ship dreadnought" and the drawings in page 81 these devices are "Night life buoys".
Thx
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Thanasis got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Strange objects on H.M.S. Monarch, anyone know what they are?
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Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in Strange objects on H.M.S. Monarch, anyone know what they are?
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Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Question on false seizing / zip seizing
Hi mates.
Well my experiments have ended up to this result.
The difficulty to remove the seizing from any rod has to do with its length on it.
A short false seizing, can easier be removed than a long one.
Here is how I do mine.
I use a proper needle and the plastic cover (tube) of DIY plastic strings...(a cable can also be used).
I cut small pieces from the cover and put them between the short seizings while I make them (counting the turns...) on a needle.
Then I use thin CA glue only on the thread and after a while I give them some twists with my fingers.
At the end I use pliers to hold the needle from one end and by the two fingers of my other hand, I hold and pull the whole stuff out of the needle. Then I separate the plastic from the thread and cut the seizings using a nail clipper.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from WackoWolf in Greek Galiot by Amati
Hi Robert.
I have built the Greek Galliot but unfortunately I haven't kept photos from her construction.
Reading in the manual to leave the planks " lie naturally", it means that you should do so, but after you have curved them in a form close to the shape of the hull.
You might also need to make some cuts close to the edges to bring the planks close.
Because of the painting, you can't see what I have done to my model, I place a photo of another Galliot (from scratch-not mine) and I think you'll get the idea...
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Brian the extraordinaire in Strange objects on H.M.S. Monarch, anyone know what they are?
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Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from src in "marrying" blocks
Hi Hamilton.
In my below suggestion (this is what I do…) you will need at least one false (zip) seizing.
You seize one block at the end of a thread (a), you make a cow hitch knot (d), through which you pass the bowsprit,
you make a loop and adjust the false seizing (b.) and the second block.
By pulling the free end of the thread (c.) you bring together the two blocks while you fasten them on the bowsprit.
You finish with a drop of glue at the false seizing.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from riverboat in How to make plastic look like wood?
In previous MSW.com, a member with the name “Zarko” painter and modeller, (he might watching us here as well…) had presented an interesting method.
According to him, he used to apply over the model, a thin coat of “asphalt”, a product for car chassis protection. It is provided as a thick liquid, which after it has been dried, it's wiped and what remains gives the sense of wood surface.
I haven't tried it, I just post his method for further experimenting…
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Omega1234 in Tsernikoperama from Greece by Thanasis - Finished
I followed the plans of the hull of a real boat , and the method of planking on bulkheads. Plywood was used for the keel and frames and beechwood for all the external wooden parts. I also followed the traditional way of planking.
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Thanasis got a reaction from trippwj in USS Constitution by Trippwj - Modelkrafter kits - BOTTLE
Hi Wayne. I wish you a nice trip with this project...
My two cents. I had never built a ship in bottle kit, so I have no experience about the easiness of a supplied bottle. But having been dealing with ordinary bottles, I would firstly check the clearness and worry less about the diameter of its neck.
Looking at the photo, the bottle in front of the manual, I would like to know how much of the text I could read, on a part of it being placed inside the bottle...Then I could figure how much of my work, could be visible.
Certainly all the above make no sense, if you want to use the kit as it is, including the old bottle.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from maso in "marrying" blocks
Hi Hamilton.
In my below suggestion (this is what I do…) you will need at least one false (zip) seizing.
You seize one block at the end of a thread (a), you make a cow hitch knot (d), through which you pass the bowsprit,
you make a loop and adjust the false seizing (b.) and the second block.
By pulling the free end of the thread (c.) you bring together the two blocks while you fasten them on the bowsprit.
You finish with a drop of glue at the false seizing.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from hamilton in "marrying" blocks
Hi Hamilton.
In my below suggestion (this is what I do…) you will need at least one false (zip) seizing.
You seize one block at the end of a thread (a), you make a cow hitch knot (d), through which you pass the bowsprit,
you make a loop and adjust the false seizing (b.) and the second block.
By pulling the free end of the thread (c.) you bring together the two blocks while you fasten them on the bowsprit.
You finish with a drop of glue at the false seizing.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from robin b in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Hi.
As a former "ships in bottles" modeller, I have already taken another seat...
A Greek modeler has been inspired by the same print and made a small diorama, using clay for the monster...
Here you have to deal with something more complex .
I would try something from rubber but first I would visit a fishing shop to see what I could do modifying some fishing rules or octopus plastic replicas.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from JerseyCity Frankie in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Well, a similar talk about the color of the creature, had been made in that Greek modeler's build log...
So, it had been said that since the octopus (here kraken probably would be also a member of Cephalopoda Greek plural κεφαλόποδα (kephalópoda); "head-feet") has the advanced ability to change colors for camouflage as well as to express emotional conditions, then its color, while it's attacking the ship, should be expressing at least anger...
I don't know whether he had made any research before he paint his creature as in photo, but certainly it's up to any one, to create and present his work as he thinks better.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Chasseur in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Hi.
As a former "ships in bottles" modeller, I have already taken another seat...
A Greek modeler has been inspired by the same print and made a small diorama, using clay for the monster...
Here you have to deal with something more complex .
I would try something from rubber but first I would visit a fishing shop to see what I could do modifying some fishing rules or octopus plastic replicas.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from trippwj in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Well, a similar talk about the color of the creature, had been made in that Greek modeler's build log...
So, it had been said that since the octopus (here kraken probably would be also a member of Cephalopoda Greek plural κεφαλόποδα (kephalópoda); "head-feet") has the advanced ability to change colors for camouflage as well as to express emotional conditions, then its color, while it's attacking the ship, should be expressing at least anger...
I don't know whether he had made any research before he paint his creature as in photo, but certainly it's up to any one, to create and present his work as he thinks better.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Hi.
As a former "ships in bottles" modeller, I have already taken another seat...
A Greek modeler has been inspired by the same print and made a small diorama, using clay for the monster...
Here you have to deal with something more complex .
I would try something from rubber but first I would visit a fishing shop to see what I could do modifying some fishing rules or octopus plastic replicas.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from tarbrush in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Hi.
As a former "ships in bottles" modeller, I have already taken another seat...
A Greek modeler has been inspired by the same print and made a small diorama, using clay for the monster...
Here you have to deal with something more complex .
I would try something from rubber but first I would visit a fishing shop to see what I could do modifying some fishing rules or octopus plastic replicas.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Wishmaster in The Kraken by JerseyCity Frankie - BOTTLE
Hi.
As a former "ships in bottles" modeller, I have already taken another seat...
A Greek modeler has been inspired by the same print and made a small diorama, using clay for the monster...
Here you have to deal with something more complex .
I would try something from rubber but first I would visit a fishing shop to see what I could do modifying some fishing rules or octopus plastic replicas.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from michael mott in Tsernikoperama from Greece by Thanasis - Finished
The model was built at the level of beams. On margin planks, small pieces of wood were placed, giving the view of components of frames. By building the gunwale and the counter at the prow, the hull took its proper shape. Some wooden supporting constructions, were also made in prow and stern.
Thanks
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Thanasis got a reaction from Vasileios in Tsernikoperama from Greece by Thanasis - Finished
I followed the plans of the hull of a real boat , and the method of planking on bulkheads. Plywood was used for the keel and frames and beechwood for all the external wooden parts. I also followed the traditional way of planking.
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