Charter33

In the UK, I think it is called drywall.

Thanks Javlin, I certainly look into this sheetrock.
Cheers,
Graham

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Installing the floorboards started with a plan, much used throughout the build, and now well worn....

In keeping with the nautical flavour there was only one method guiding the laying, the four step butt planking pattern.
Once a board was cut to an appropriate length fixing holes were pre-drilled with a 12 mm spade bit and each piece secured to the sub-floor. 

A 1/2" plug cutter was used to convert offcuts of boards into covers for the screws.

Mixing metric and imperial tools in this way resulted in a nice tight fit. Once these plugs had been glued in place a sharp chisel made quick work of getting them level and flat.

The floor after sanding -

No, not quite treenails, but visible at this scale?

Oh yes, but nice and subtle.....
The first coat of finish has been applied,

the second and final coat will go on tomorrow evening after a light sanding.
Cheers,
Graham
 

Thanks Javlin, I certainly look into this sheetrock.
Cheers,
Graham

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Installing the floorboards started with a plan, much used throughout the build, and now well worn....

In keeping with the nautical flavour there was only one method guiding the laying, the four step butt planking pattern.
Once a board was cut to an appropriate length fixing holes were pre-drilled with a 12 mm spade bit and each piece secured to the sub-floor. 

A 1/2" plug cutter was used to convert offcuts of boards into covers for the screws.

Mixing metric and imperial tools in this way resulted in a nice tight fit. Once these plugs had been glued in place a sharp chisel made quick work of getting them level and flat.

The floor after sanding -

No, not quite treenails, but visible at this scale?

Oh yes, but nice and subtle.....
The first coat of finish has been applied,

the second and final coat will go on tomorrow evening after a light sanding.
Cheers,
Graham
 

Totally agree Rodger, and tool protection is very high on my prority list. I'll be looking to fit a de-humidifier in there, especially after seeing what happened to one of my friends last year when a freak temperature swing of over 12 degrees one night made his pre-fab concrete workshop look like it had rained inside. He was mopping up pools of water and had to spend days dealing with surface rust on tools and equipment.
I started preping the floor area yesterday and this included laying a vapour barrier on top of the OSB sub- floor base. The softwood boards have had nearly a week to acclimatise, so I plan to escape to the bottom of the garden later and begin fitting them......
Cheers,
Graham

Wow - thanks for all those 'likes', very much appreciated.
To be honest, Javlin, air conditioning hadn't occurred to me. Here in the UK it's not something that's usually found in domestic settings but I'll do a bit of research into it. Thanks for the suggestion. Once the flooring is down and sealed I'll be putting in insulation to help with heat retention and sound issues. At the same time the first fix for the electrics will be done. I was thinking of using an oil filled portable electric radiator that I have currently in storage for residual background heat. A good friend uses one of those diesel oil cab heaters for his workshop, but that's not really what I want. Did consider a small wood burning stove but decided it would be impractical. The building is tucked away and pretty much out of direct sunlight so I think using natural flow ventilation, from the french doors, porthole window and opening roof light will cope on hot sunny days.....🥵😄

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Now that was an idea that hadn't occurred to me Kauz! Good call...
 
More progress...
After the promise of foam board insulation sheets at a bargain price evaporated into the ether, I decided to opt for a sheep's wool based product that would more effectively address the issue of both temperature and sound insulation.

I also managed to start sourcing the components for getting power into the workshop. I'm not qualified to do this 
aspect of the build myself, but fortunately my brother-in-law is! After a long career in this profession his knees are suffering even more than mine! As long as I get the donkey work for the first fix done, he'll come over and do the clever stuff. Under his guidance I have run, but not connected, the correct size cable from the fuse board to the back of the house, armored cable from there to the workshop, and all the patrice boxes fitted in place for the sockets and switches. The LED strip lights have also been fitted and await his professional touch.

My original plan was to clad the walls with MDF, with routed grooves to look like T&G boards. Not able to fund this method now but I have a plan....
I have a stock of pine 200 x 100 sleeper off-cuts from a previous garden landscaping build plus the timber shuttering left over from pouring the concrete base. My aim is to convert this into suitable cladding material...

There's a lot of sawing to do so my extraction system was recovered from storage to reduce the dust levels this work will produce


Conversion has begun and I will shortly trial this on the far wall.

I have added some additional framing to the roof beams to provide something to fix the cladding to which proved a bit of a challenge. I want to keep the laminated beams visible and just add cladding between them. The end result will hopefully be sort of modified barrel vaulted ceiling......we'll see 😁...
Cheers,
Graham
 

Work continues with the upper gun deck cannons ........
 
I've decided to replace the breech rope eyelets on the carriages with larger ones as I hope to increase the diameter of this rope to 1 mm rather than the recommended size that seems a bit small when compared with images I found on the web. These are Mantua Models eyelets but while the rings are okay, the second piece of each fitting needed to have the 'loop' tightened up a bit. This was achieved by pulling them part way through an improvised draw plate.

 

 

 
After fitting the breech rope and it's eyelets to the barrel it was mounted on the carriage.  A short length of brass rod with a small dimple added to one end was used as a simple drift to push the round headed pins into their pre-drilled holes.

 

 
Trying to get the breech ropes to hang appropriately..........

 
Rigging hooks attached to 2mm blocks ...

 
...strung ....
 

 
.... and attached

 
And finally my first attempt to install one ......

 
One down, 29 to go ......
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Started work on the tackles for the gun carriages.
 
Eyelets have been bent....
 

 
.... twisted.......
 

 
.... and blackened (after chemically cleaning approximately 15 seconds  in Birchwoood Casey Brass Black)
 

 
Joining a rigging hook to a 2mm single block,
 

 
and a first attempt at bringing it all together .....
 

 
Cheers,
Graham.

Today, I assembled more than half of the chain. Again the design by MFH helps a lot, but the work is eye straining and tedious. The last links felt more difficult, a clear sign of fatigue.

Thirty chain white metal chain axles, connected by a cast sprue will be set into a pre drilled jig. Then you add the intersecting PE links, which are luckily only adhesive fixed to the foil and dosen´t need to be cut from the PE fret. When one side is finished, the heads of the bolts are pressed flat with a pair of pliers.



One side done:



The chain will be flipped over in the jig and the second side gets mounted like the first. Here are both sides done.



Then you cut the white metal sprue away with a sharp nipper and you have 30links made. The last pic shows two sets of 30 joined together in the jig.



Cheers Rob

Getting there, rings to fit now. 

Here is mine. A gift from the Admiral.
 

The Crocker starts to look like a bike now, with the rear fender attached. Primarily, I gave the fenders clear coat a polish with Tamiya´s polishing compounds. A bit of dust and fingerprints remain visible for the moment, as these are work in progress pics. To align all the struts, a positioning peg and a screw for mounting the rear fender was a bit fiddly, but in the end, it worked out. I added the rivets and taillight and started with the wheel hubs. Spoking is next . 





Cheers Rob

Thank you Michael for your kind comments.  Haven't visited my log for quite some time.  
 
Finally I received the case and the table.  First I had ordered the acrylic case and had to wait to have it in hand  before I ordered the table as I had to have the exact dimensions to cut the groove on the table surface to take the case.  This took quite some time as its becoming quite difficult to find a carpenter to do something custom made.
 
 
Acrylic case and table ready to take HMS Victory.


 
 
Stands in place to take the ship with holes drilled through the table,  The two end ones to take the threaded rods from the keel and bolted from under the table to keep it in place and the middle one to pass the wires from the keel to the power supply under the table.
 
 

 
 
HMS Victory in place.



 
 
 
And finally, after over 5 years working on her, covered and placed in a prominent place in my apartment where I hope she will stand for years to come and whenever I look at her reminds of the hours I spent building her.  


 

 
 
 
 
Now I am taking a break from ship building and my next project is reconditioning my small collection of Canon SLR Cameras and Lenses, plus a 'Rollop" twin lens camera which belonged to my late father, thus this camera has a big sentimental value for me.  They are the film type and since the electronic DSLR came out I haven't used them for years and now in need of a very deep cleaning job and also some repairs for which I ordered some tools and will do the job myself.   I want to bring them back to full working condition and maybe try taking a few photos with them as well.  When I ordered the table for the Victory I also ordered a small display cabinet for them. 

 
I thank once again all those who followed my build log and found so much encouragement from.  I hope my build log will be of help to others, as honestly I found so much help and ideas from other builders on this site.  
 
Regards
Robert
 
 
 
 
 
 

The first pic was my failed attempt at running the copper plating along the bottom keel.
I have removed all those plates and re-installed following the water line. They look much better.
 
I am not sure if I will have enough plating to do the bottom of the keel and the rudder. No worries, I ordered another 100 from JoTika. They are relatively cheap, about 12 pounds....whatever that is in USD!!!!! They actually shipped it out today.
 
I also bought some copper paint from our local craft/hobby store. I decided to go with Tamiya and it is surprisingly close.
I see a few spaces and gaps and I painted them and then wiped away the excess. I will circle back when it dries and do it again.
I also pained the bow keel ridge before adding the base plates.
 
I was hoping I would be able to bend those plates so that they fit over the keel, but there is barely enough there.
I do have a PE bender, but there just isn't enough meat to bend them. I was thinking maybe to just install flat and use a wooden dowel to bend them down....not sure if that will look good, so I will check.
 
Honestly, once I turned the boat back right side up, you can barely see a lot of the issues I have with my plating, which is encouraging. I am also happy to see that none of the grating fell off.
 
So I will tweak the plating with paint, and re-paint the black water line to clean everything up. I will also do one more touch up of the ports before forgetting I ever worked on them!
 
I am also thinking ahead as to how I am going to make sure the lower gun port cannon holes are all parallel and in line. Since my gun ports do not seem to be consistent in size, I am going to have to think about another way to do that.
 
Perhaps draw a string tight across the hull from front to back making sure the string is in the middle and using that as a guide. I think if I can get them all even horizontally, I can do what is needed to alter their stance/direction in each port so they line up. We shall see!!!!
 
I have also been working on the cannon bases. I also took a first stab at adding a ring to the cannons for the breaching ropes. I have done 3 and they seem ok.
 
Thanks for all the likes and encouragement!
Chris