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Everything posted by Sonofagun
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Hello all. A while ago I posted my supply of lumber available for sale. Thanks to some sawdust creators, I have sold everything! Thank you for all that have purchased and condsidered purchasing from me. I had to give up scale ship modeling, and my lovely wife and I are moving out of our gorgeous home. On to new adventures! A heartfelt thank you!
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UPDATE: In boxwood, I have the following board numbers available as of 5-12-2025 : #1, #5, #9, #11, #12, #14, and #15. For holly, I have: #1, #4, and #7 No Swiss pear lumber, it all is sold. Thank you everyone for considering a purchase and many thanks to those who have purchased. It does my heart good to know the lumber is eventually going to end up in a fine looking model! Bryan
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I have a fairly good amount of boxwood and some holly lumber to sell. I can no longer continue this wonderful hobby due to repercussions of a stroke leaving me with a left arm tremor. the boxwood is available at $28 per board foot , holly at $20 per board foot. i will pay half the shipping , only to the continental United States. Thank you for your consideration!
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Thank you all for your encouragement!! I have been wooden ship modeling for over 40 years. I had many plans for retirement. We live in a dynamic world. We have to make the most of the hand we are dealt. Thank you, fellow modelers, for enriching my life through the sharing of your work and your knowledge. You all are a special type of human possessing great skills and applying them artistically. Take care and I will continue to be lurking on this forum. Sincerely, Bryan Sieber (Sonofagun)
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thank you for your encouragement!! my neurologist is working on the tremor, but he informs me the numbness is a permanent fixture in my life now. It feels like when your alarm is going off , and you slept on your arm all night. That tingling , half feeling you are able to muster until the nerve recovers. that is how my left body is. motor function is good, but i cannot tell what i have in my left hand, unless I look at it. So, monitor your blood pressure and keep an eye on your cholesterol. for me, it was a patent foraman ovale. It sucks, but you just keep going. ol
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I think someone is trying to tell me that I have to leave shipmodeling. I had a stroke 2 years ago. Now numbness on my left side and an intentional tremor with my left arm. I am posting a few sherline products with more to follow , later. I will split shipping costs in the United States. Vertical column, $80. Compound slide, $70. Milling vice, $45. Jacob's chuck, $30. Saw arbor, $25. Manual 10 inch table top mill, $400. They are all in extremely good condition. I also will be posting my fairly extensive supply of boxwood, Swiss pear, Holly, and a big ol' piece of beach, in the future. Thank you, friends!
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Byrnes Modelmachines ropewalk for sale With extra rake up bobbins and belts. I will also include an electric bobbin winder. They both have been used very little. I will pay for shipping within the continental United States. $200.00. I had a stroke 18 months ago which severely changed my retirement hobby plans! Thank you for considering. Bryan Sieber, Florida, USA
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Yes, I did assemble the entire keel, stem and aft deadwood and used it to help keep the frame spacing. I think the trickiest part of the hull was assembling the hawse pieces. Hahn’s drawings do a very decent job of preparing the individual pieces. i got very lucky and only had to redo them once! The model is a great deal of fun and will keep you occupied for hours. There were a few times when I would get frustrated and need to take a break. But you get hooked by the bug... If you haven’t purchased THE FULLY FRAMED SHIP MODEL series of books by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, I would highly recommend it! At least to start with the first book of the series. It has an unbelievable amount of information that is useful for any ship modeler. Very well written. Just a suggestion. I wish I had purchased and read them much sooner than I did!
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HMS Enterprise by AlexBaranov - 1:36
Sonofagun replied to AlexBaranov's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
What a wonderful model! It makes me believe I am looking at a model made when the ship was being built! Love the colors you are using. The carvings are beautiful! Very clean lines. Attractive ship. I can see why someone of your talent would be drawn to modeling her. Great job! -
On my Hahn RATTLESNAKE, I placed the first and last whole frame the first thing. Supported them to make certain they are 90 degrees from the frame jig. Then you can place the keel,WITHOUT GLUING IT, To help keep the frame spacing from top to bottom. I don't know if you are already doing this. Just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.
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Welcome Torstein! I am sure you are finding there is much to learn in ship modeling. You can learn a great deal by reading the building logs on this site. The members here are terrific and are very willing to help. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you may have. Bryan
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Nice, neat modelling -as your usual standard. What size are the loops to control the valves of the faucets on your stove? Fantastic scale!! Nice shot locker in the background, also! Great job. Happy Thanksgiving!
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I have every confidence that you will do a brilliant job (as usual)' I would advise not to partake of whisky to calm your nerves during your build as you may end up emptying another bottle and have a compulsion to build another (ship in a bottle) and end up in a vicious cycle! Just kidding. I am looking forward to you facing the challenges of this build! Good luck, Danny! Bryan
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Working Comfortably on Upper Rigging
Sonofagun replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
This is the picture. Kind of self evident on construction. The support boards , supporting the building board, are 1/2 inch oak. The slotted boards for tilting purposes are 1/8th inch plywood. I put a little bar soap on the upright guides to help them slide better ( the uprights coming up from the base) The base is wide and more substantial with weight to be stable. -
Working Comfortably on Upper Rigging
Sonofagun replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I will see what I can do tomorrow. I have never posted pictures on MSW before. I know I will have to 're-size' them. I don't have to report to work until early afternoon. So I will try for the morning. If not tomorrow, then soon. Bryan -
Working Comfortably on Upper Rigging
Sonofagun replied to capnharv2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I built a movable, height adjustable , swivel top 'table' to hold my building platform. I built it from 2x4s, 2x6s, some 1/8th inch plywood to act as swivel guides to be screwed to the building board, some threaded rod, nuts and bolts, and put it on wheeled lockable casters. It was quite easy to build and serves my purposes very well. It is small enough to easily turn it to whatever direction I need. I can tilt the platform to more easily work on the interior of the model. The one I built, was my 'prototype' , so I can modify it for my next build (if I need to). I'm sorry that I don't have pictures of it immediately available . If you are interested, let me know and I can try to place some on this forum. Bryan P.S. I got the idea from Danny's build of his VULTURE when he had mounted his model on a rod to have it able to swivel. At least I think it was his VULTURE build! The 'table' is pretty darned stable. I've had it for over a year and it still works as well as the day I finished it. -
Danny, Just got a chance to catch up on your build. Still settling into our new home - not without some major problems. Looks like all my shop equipment made it all right! Yea! I want to tell you how impressive your VULTURE looks! You must be very happy with your results. Cannot imagine you would have any regrets. She is beautiful. Congratulations on your continued accomplishments.
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Setting flags - which way does the wind blow?
Sonofagun replied to rodgerdodger's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You have to consider actual wind direction and the resulting apparent wind, ( the combined affects of actual wind speed and direction being affected by the speed and direction of the ship ) . In a square rigged vessel , most of the time the wind would be coming over one of the stern quarters. The ship's forward motion would move the flag's free end a little toward the stern from what the actual wind direction would have it go. The harder the wind is blowing, the less affect the forward motion of the ship would matter as the ship can only go as fast as its waterline dictates. (There is a formula for this but it would take too long for me to find it at this moment). Basically, though, a heavy displacement ship gets stuck in its own 'trough' and cannot rise over the ridge in front. So, in a strong breeze. The flag would be snapping pretty much in the same direction of the actual wind. In a lighter breeze, the apparent wind would have a more powerful factor in the direction of the flag. At anchor, the flags would be pretty much straight to stern as the ship, being tethered by the anchor rode, would be at the mercy of the wind -
Mark, Really nice work! You are advancing quite nicely this go-round! Before you know it, you will be planking and seeing that beautiful ship emerge with its fine lines. Congratulations on reaching this point of the build! Call me crazy, but I think framing is one of the more fun parts of building. What the heck, just being in the shop is fun, right? Bryan
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Thanks Danny, for your suggestions on planning my new workshop! You clicked on a few very practical ideas I had not considered. Your build is amazing. Very nice work. I agree with the others, the degree of detail makes the model look like a larger scale.
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Danny, Thanks for sharing this finicky portion of the model. I always learn so much from your posts. I will be moving into a new home with a workshop that is more than twice as big as my current place. It Will be 12 x20 feet with 10 foot ceilings. Any pointers? All I have now is keeping my sawdust producing equipment ( saws, sanders, etc) from my finish and assembly area. I also want to thank you for inspiring me to build a stand alone, adjustable height, tiltable work station for my current build. Next build, I will add a gantry to the board. Again, thank you kindly, Bryan
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Gun Port Lids
Sonofagun replied to wq3296's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
This may be a REAL STRETCH but, any chance the bulwarks were painted red to cut down on night blindness? On modern day boats, the gauges are backlit in red light because a typical white light is a little more difficult for the eyes to accommodate when going back to the darkness of night. Any reflected light from the bulwarks would reflect in red, being easier to then peer into the night. Kinda out there, but, who knows? -
Tung Oil Finish?
Sonofagun replied to cdogg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Sorry for the late entry into this thread. Just wanted to say that Formby's tung oil is not pure tung oil. I believe it contains some shellac. With pure tung oil, if the finish begins to thin or dull with time, you simply can add more tung oil. Don't know if this would be the case with Formby's. You may have to take additional steps. This may or may not be a concern. Also, to aid absorption of the tung oil into the wood, try heating the tung oil By placing a container of it in a hot water bath.
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