Pete38

To finish, the cross section is mounted on a pedestal made of dark hardwood.

I will rig the guns in a secured for sea position (not ready for action).
Therefore I need eight blocks. I saw first the sheaves for the blocks, 2mm slices of a brass rod ᴓ 3mm.

My cross section is a stationary model, so the sheaves of the blocks must not be able to spin. I glue them on a small wooden lath on which are glued at regular intervals pieces of wood.

Another lath is glued on top of it and the individual blocks can be sawn.

The blocks need now some shaping and sanding and they are ready.
The only further thing to do is rigging the two guns.

Hello everyone,
 
Building this will be my first ever model build, and I see a lot of mistakes and learning up ahead. Reading all of the excellent build logs of others who have done this project before me will be very helpful and I look forward to getting on with it. I first got the idea to start this build waaay back, and got access to the plans, bought the wood that I needed and then life kind of got in the way of getting started and I never started my build log. Now things have kind of settled down and I found myself with some spare time and an itch to do something, and the idea of doing this build popped right back up.
 
I have a pretty limited selection of tools available, and since my budget is pretty small and I'm living in an apartment where noise and dust is a bit of a problem, I might struggle to buy everything I might want. I will make the best of it, and see what needs pop up along the way.
 
Since I bought the wood in the dimensions I needed, using the timber list I found here, making the false keel, keel, and keelson was just a matter of cutting the parts to length and cutting the rabbet for the keel. I made the rabbet by scraping the keel with a hacksaw blade that I cut to the correct profile using a Dremel like multitool, since this method seemed most likely to give me a consistent result. The finished pieces can be seen here.
 

 
I then moved on to cutting out the pieces for the first double frame (C). This was done by hand using a coping saw and clamping the wood to my desk as can be seen here:
 

Doing this I quickly learned what I had already read from others, that it is a very good idea to leave some extra "meat" when cutting out the pieces since it is very easy to cut away too much. After gluing the separate pieces together everything seemed to be working out OK. This was until I glued the two frames together to form a double frame... One side looks just fine, but the other has a lot of overlap between the pieces even though there should be none. I think this is caused by some issue with the joints between some of the futtocks. I had a really hard time keeping them square and at the correct angles. I tried using files, sand paper, and sawing as close to the line as I dared, but nothing really seemed to work really well. Both the filing and sand paper methods seemed to round over the end really easily. This is something I will have to work out how to do accurately moving forward. The overlap can be seen in the following picture (it is just as bad on the other side if you flip it over).
 

 
I have just roughly cut out the frame pieces for the next frame B, and I'm now contemplating how to move forward. I think I will just very roughly smooth out the pieces on the sides and then I have to figure out how to accurately get them cut to line on the joining ends. If anyone has any suggestions, they would be very welcome.
 
So far I've figured out that this is going to be a really hard, really fun project and that taking good pictures is a lot harder than it looks.
 
- Marcus
 

The Bulkheads are ready, waiting for delivery now

Hi all,
 
You may or may not be on Facebook, and if you are, you may not know about our page. This is there to share topics, gallery items, news and also any pertinent updates on MSW. If you're on Facebook, head over and click LIKE on our page and ask your club and build buddies to do the same!
 
https://www.facebook.com/ModelShipWorld/
 
MSW Staff.

Welcome to the build. Looks like you are getting a great start with the tools. Looking forward to you build.
 

Welcome to the build. Looks like you are getting a great start with the tools. Looking forward to you build.
 

Welcome to the build. Looks like you are getting a great start with the tools. Looking forward to you build.
 

Here is a link that worked for me
 
http://www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com/special-promotion-on-dvd.html
 
You can order the DVD from here or download a pdf 
 
Looks like a very nice DVD

I’m currently gathering information while finishing my build of the Victory.
 
This will be my first scratch build.
 
I’m going to build the Triton in plank on bulkhead fashion, because I am familiar with it.
 
I am looking forward to starting the Triton.

The learning process continues , a few pics of the process , nothing new as i have used the other excellent build logs as a guide  . a few lessons learned , at this scale 1:48 the pencil method of caulking i think is not thick enough and will experiment on the upper deck for improvement , and may even consider treenails ?? although the chances of building a full ship at this scale are small, learning new skills was the whole idea , and would like to thank those involved in it,s planning and conception ,it certainly has opened up a whole new side to the hobby !!    Next lesson learned is to keep everything as square and even as possible from the beginning to save time and work later on !!!  Next is unless u have the proper tools and skills buy your wood as premilled as possible , in my case i,m having a few probs continually resetting saws and remembering settings , but maybe thats just me . On the subject of wood , i have found pear and cherry a real pleasure to work with compared to some of the kit stuff which i was used with , and will deff use them in future  . One other point is i changed my glue type to a fast setting variety but think i have overdone it and will change back to a slower set , 
last pic shows a simple way of shaping  the wales , worked fairly well but needs refining . As usual my report would read , doing ok but could deffinately do better , all i can say is i will try ???

Just a quick update on progress so far , i don,t need to go into to much detail as others have covered pretty much everthing thankfully . Decided to continue with the frames i have and with a lot of sanding they will do the job , lesson learned is spend time getting the frames as well constructed as possible . have planked one sid up to the wales with cherry , i,m happy although i did miss a few flaws in the wood which only show after varnish ,perhaps in future i should number them as i cut them of the sheet to be sure to be sure . Be cause i was to lazy to use a proper build board there is a difference of about 2mm in the distance from side to side , can be easy remied now i know it,s there . Work on the lower deck continues , i hope to complete it of ship and then build it in which means i can make the last beam struts to suit if there is any variation . I find most problems can be overcome if found in time ,,, fortunately ..I may not "joint " the fine struts under the side of the deck which will be planked ,i can learn enough of one side to maybe do a better job on the gun deck ..

I forgot to mention that i don,t think i will use treenails , unless they are done very well even at this scale i feel they can look unrealistic ,, only my opinion . You will also notice the planks are continuous ,again sinply to save time ,, lazy bugger ain,t i ???? I used a pencil for caulking .. 

Hello Guys a further update for you all.
 
Its been a poor winter here in London and the weather has finally improved, its been nice and warm and sunny for the last few days.
I have made several changes to how i am doing things due to mobility and health. the workshop has been adapted so i can gain access with my wheelchair.
The build at 1:48 has also been altered, i found at that size many of the parts were difficult for me to craft or handle. There for i purchased a new printer capable of printing A0 sizes and below.
I printed all the plans out at 142% of the pdf files, this = almost  twice the size.
This is far better for me to be able to handle the parts.
Also over the winter i managed to get in contact of a small family kitchen unit builders at my local business park, I am welcome to forage in their offcuts section for suitable timber, I will be using mainly Beech for the frames, Mahogany for the Keel parts and deadwoods, Lime for planking and Maple for the Deck supports.
The photos may not be in order and sorry for quality hands no longer steady, but ive given each a title.
 
More to follow after progress.
Regards to all Alan

Thanks for the welcome folks , i realise i,m a late comer and have all u to thank for your build logs which i have relied on . I,m not one for measuring to the last 0.5 so am inclined to make things fit as i go along , and cut a few corners so i hope u won,t be dissapointed .  Basically i want to find out if i,m up to the full Triton build , time will tell ???

Welcome to the build. Looks like your off to a great start. Looking forward to more 

Welcome to the build. Looks like your off to a great start. Looking forward to more 

Welcome to the build. Looks like your off to a great start. Looking forward to more 

I delayed starting this log untill i was sure i would be continuing with it , doubt is my worst enemy , but i think i can produce something worthwhile out of it, so will open myself up to the great unwashed and see what u think 

Thanks for your appreciation, Ward.
It is the moment to make the most important equipment of a 18th century warship: the artillery.
I want to cast the gun barrels in tin. To make the casting mold, I turn a model of a gun barrel in wood. I start with drilling the hole for the trunnions next to the center line of a piece of olive wood.

Then I turn the barrel in accordance with the plan.

I leave a funnel-shaped appendix at the gun mouth. It will form the pouring opening in the casting mold.

The mold will be made in a small wooden box in which fit the gun model. The purpose of the two small planks with the conical wooden pins next to the box will become clear soon. The two nails in the trunnions keep my gun model in the middle of the box and will also make two air tunnels in the mold through which the air can escape when pouring the melted tin in the mold.

The mold will be made with a heat resistant silicone. It consists of a red colored raisin which has to be mixed with 2.5% hardener.

My box has a volume of about 22 cl. I start with making 10 cl of silicone and pour it in the box. I press the gun model in the silicone until it sits approx. halfway in the fluid.

 I lay also the two planks with wooden pins on the box in such a way that the tops of the pins are sitting in the silicone.

A day later the silicone is hard (or soft like rubber) and the pins can be removed. They form four conical holes in the top of the bottom half of the mold. All silicone spills on the wooden gun model are removed. I spray some release agent on it.

Now I mix again 10 cl silicone and fill the box.

A day later the mold can be dismantled and the two halves can be taken token apart. In the bottom half of the mold are the four pits of the wooden pins and in the upper half four protrusions which perfectly fit in them. They make it possible to join the mold perfectly.

I use tin for plumbers to make the guns. It is sold as rods of about 30 cm long, pieces can be sawn of with a metal saw. My melting furnace is a simple spirit fire and a small sauce pan.

The melted tin is poured in the mold.

Some ten minutes later the mold can be opened. Be careful because although the tin has solidified, it is still very hot.

The pouting funnel is sawn of and I drill out the mouth of the gun.

All the mold seams are filed and the barrels are blackened.

I read on this forum that the Mermaid class frigates underwater hull were painted with white stuff and later (for HMH Triton in 1779) were coppered. Some of the cross section builders show both versions, one side white and one side coppered. I decide to follow their example. Starboard side will be white and port side  coppered. Here you see starboard side:

In our local garden center I found copper strips to protect vegetables in the kitchen garden against snails. It consists of a copper foil strip which is self adhesive. Probably  effective against snails, but certainly effective for ship modeling.

To obtain a nail pattern on my copper strips, I draw the pattern on a piece of wood and drill the nail holes (ø 1.5 mm).

In each hole I put a 1.5 mm nail of which only the head sticks out of the wood surface. As I will glue the copper sheets from under to above and from aft to forward, I wait to place the nails of the upper- and left edge. They will be each time covered by the previous layer. When gluing the upper layer, the upper edge will be nailed as well.

To imitate the nail heads on the copper plate, I lay the copper strip on the nail bed and rub with my finger over the copper sheet until the nail heads are embossed in the copper foil. Thereafter I cut the copper to the right dimensions, in this case 2x6 cm).


As the copper foil is self adhesive, the fixing on the hull goes easily.

Coppering finished!

 

I got my sliding table last week. The little plastic-topped screws for the depth stop really annoyed me - too hard to grab and start in the holes. So I went to the hardware store and got some brass 6-32 machine screws and knurled brass nuts. I glued the nuts to the screws with a bit of medium CA. I find these way easier to use.
 
Cheers -
John

Hope he has lots of these in stock, just ordered me one. 

Hope he has lots of these in stock, just ordered me one. 

A three-year project finally completed. This big cat now features High voltage Main gun Flash, Servo recoil, Clark TK 22 control, and soundboard, Metal Tracks, Working Headlight, 4:1 Reduction Gears, Metal Drive Sprocket and Idler, Flashing Bow and COAX MG 34s, Track adjusters, Smoke systems, and it plays the Panzer Leid. All external fittings are nickel and photo-etch. Barrel and muzzle brake are brass and aluminum. The suspension is actual torsion bars just like the real TIGER 1.  It is finished in the scheme of the 3rd Company 101st SS at Normandy June 1944.  Tiger 334 was knocked out during the fighting.