No Idea

I too have ordered a set from Mikhail - He must be quiet at the moment as I paid for them today and he is starting work on my order in the morning. I've gone for the full set with pear handles as I just couldn't justify the extra cost of the nicer handles even though they look amazing. So if you want some now the time to order and as others have said Google translate works great and he takes payment through PayPal so no risk either.

I've now finished all of the bolts in the forward frames and there's nothing else I can do with these until they get installed. I've now packed them away for sometime in the near future. So I've made a start on the aft frames - I'm starting with the 12 standard frames (Is that the right terminology?) that are not rising. I ran the wood through the thickness sander and made the templates as before. This time though I used 100gm paper and I have found it to be much better than the standard 80gm photocopy paper for the templates. It holds its shape far better and is just stronger when it's glued to the wood. Since then it's just been a case of hours of cutting, sanding, milling and filing the 133 parts which is where I'm at now. Next up is to start gluing the frames together and then get sanding again.

No pressure there then - the master Jedi is watching your build

The results speak for themselves and I see a masterclass in CNC programming. It must be so difficult to work out all of the cutting passes and just how to hold the piece which probably needs turning around. How you work out the datum on something like that is incredible. This is an art in itself and more than likely the future of model ship building. I just wish that I could do it to be honest

Hi Tony I get all of my wood from here https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ Although you can buy these pieces that are already cut, if you give them a call they will cut you pieces to your own sizes for a small charge. I simply worked out what I needed and gave them a call. The frames on this build are 7.90mm thick so I ordered the wood to be just over 8mm. I then just cut the planks into three to make them more manageable and then ran them through a thickness sander. Mark

I'm now getting on putting in all of the bolts into these 15 frames - all 900 of them. I've already used 4 metres of 0.5mm carbon rod so I'm glad its really cheap to buy! Also a picture of the frames so far not quite lined up correctly. I just need now to get these bolts finished and clean up the frames. I guess I can then start on the rear frames.

I've managed to get some more done. I've now completed the 4 forward rising frames but not without a problem. I found an error in the frame that I made above so it had to be made again. No big deal as I would rather it be right to save problems later.

Thanks Tony thats a good suggestion - As this is my first POF build I really want to do things the right way as much as possible. I want to hopefully make a nice job of it and learn as much as I can for future builds. Well if I survive this one

Thanks Mark much appreciated

I've had a go at building the first of the 4 forward rising frames. This is frame number one and it needs to be spot on as all of the hawse timbers are attached to it later. I think if I get this one wrong it will have a lot of knock on consequences later in the build. Just out of interest what do you all think is a good wood to make tree nails from to complement Castello? Bear in mind that I will need to source it in the UK and I quite like the subtle look. I do have quite a good stock of pear and mahogany but I would very much appreciate any advice. I used a photocopy of the plans to workout and check the angle where the frame meets the rising wood. There's also a lot of material to remove too to get the bevel. I must also thank Barkeater as he helped me to understand the drawings of the rising frames as I just couldn't see them until he explained - cheers mate!

Hi G.L. and thanks very much I think that they are OK as these are the first frames I've ever made and I'm learning every time I make another. To make the cuts I have a Proxxon ML70 mill which is a nice little machine. Its tiny but it does a pretty good job.

Next and to finish these frames for the time being was to make the bolts which help hold the frames together. I needed 0.5mm bolts to make them scale and I tried to make them out of ebony following the instructions by Adrian Sorolla. But I literally found my limit!!! I just could not replicate what he amazingly does as I really need a lot of them too. So I did the sensible thing and used 0.5mm carbon fibre rod instead which I think looks great. The instructions are clear that there should be 3 bolts at every joint overlap so thats what I did. I also cut out the rebates for the lower chocks which space out the frames. Later once the hull is faired I can cut in the limber slots into them.

Assembled and bevelled forward frames which seem to have turned out OK. They match the plans which is always a good sign but I guess I will only find out of they are good when I start assembling them. I have to say that bevelling nearly 16mm wide frames means removing some serious wood!

Next was to make a small piece of the rising wood so that I can glue the floor timber and the cross chock together. I would love to be able to say that my first frames went together with no issues - but no! I had sanded them far too much and had to make them again. Its not a problem I'm in no rush.

Thanks for the interest My workshop is my spare room as I like to work in the warm as its currently -4 outside. My wife has no issues with me making a mess; its leaving that mess that would cause a problem so I always work as tidy as I can. As far as I can remember the hull is about 900mm long without the bowsprit and thats the same size as the tug that I built last. I decided to start building the forward frames first as these look relatively straight forward and within my abilities. So checking the scantlings I needed to thickness some wood down to 7.90mm. This leaves me a little bit on for final sanding of the faces Next was to photocopy the plans for frames 15 - 5; get them coloured in - yellow for the floor frame and red for the half floor. It turned out that 1 plank was the correct size for these 11 frames which was pure luck

I wasn't sure whether to put a build log on here as this is my first POF build and I'm not sure how it will go. I keep on asking random questions about issues that I've had, and to me it would be better to put them all in one place. So I've taken the plunge and I'll give it a go. I'm building Le Rochefort using the Ancre Monogragh which in itself is a lovely piece of work. I'm also using the book by Adrian Sorolla called Model Shipbuilding Dockyard Style. So why Le Rochefort and also at 1/24th scale? I chose this ship after having communicated with a few people on this forum as to what a good first ship would be. I didn't want to start something that I would loose interest in due to my lack of skills and experience. I only ever build one ship at a time and my last two boats have been POB builds at about the same size as the 1/24th scale version. So building in this size will feel familiar to me and let's be honest we all like a big ship! Time is one of my biggest issues as I'm a truck driver and my job takes me away from home all week, so I only get to work on it at the weekend which also has to fit in family time. So thats an introduction of me and why I'm building this lovely ship so I believe its the right thing to put a bit of history on here too. Le Rochefort 1787 This is the third ship of this name and was built in Rochefort France in 1787 on the plans of Hubert Penevert. It was classed as a yacht and was designed to navigate the shallow waters of the Charente. Its job was to carry powder from the safe port of Rochefort to the larger fighting ships that could not sail the Charente and as such had to wait in deeper water in the estuary. Its design was very detailed such as specific instructions on how the hold must be fully planked and caulked and a floor above the keelson. This details were all about keeping the powder dry. One funny reference is to the ships kitchen and how it says that it may not be used with powder on board. So I hope all of the above makes sense as I'm certain that I will need to ask many questions. The good news is my kit has arrived in the form of Castello planks Mark

When I have had to use water I just use a metal tray and stick some water in it and put it on the stove. You can heat the wood for as long as you like and then just take the whole lot to where your working. I must be honest though I prefer hot air now for bending as waiting for the planks to dry on the hull just took too long.

I agree that shimming will solve the problem. However just double check that the correct frames are in the correct slots first 👍. I made this error once and it took me a few days to realise what I had done 😂

Hi Mate - the thickness of your second planking depends on how good the first layer was. If the first layer after sanding and filling is pretty much the shape of the finished hull then 0.5mm will be enough. You are just giving the first layer a nicer finishing coat so to speak. If you still need to do a bit of sanding then 1mm is more appropriate as it gives you something to go at. If you use too thin a wood its really easy to break through and show the first layer. Take stock of what you have done so far and then decide what type of finish that you want. That will give you the thickness that you need.

Barkeater thank you very much for you input I very much appreciate it. I also after a couple of mistakes thought that C was my point of contact. I couldn't though see that this was correct as point C at its base would have been wider than the rising wood which wouldn't have made any sense. So I had a look at a further drawing and low and behold the rising wood is on the other drawing is exact same width as point C. So looking at the drawing that I posted regarding the frames I think there is a bit of draughtsman licence going on here. I think that the lines going down to the rising wood on this drawing just follow the natural line of the frames. I would have stopped at the base of the frame and hinted at the mortise below. Maybe even done another drawing to explain and emphasise the mortise. This is my first fully framed build so interpreting the drawings is often an issue for me. I left engineering some 35 years ago so reading drawings has become very much a homework project for me. Thanks for your help

Hi All I hope that someone may be able to help me as I just cannot get my head around two of the frames on my Le Rochefort build. I have studied them for days; made what I think are countless errors and keep on ending back to my confused start point. The frames are rising coupled frames and I understand the construction of how they are put together. My problem seems to stem from where they meet the rising wood. They have a tenon in the floor frame and this is probably my issue. I cannot seem to make the lines on the plan match what I think I need to do with the frames. I have attached two pictures - One being of frames 1 and 2 and I have marked out what I think is my confusion. Point A - This seems to be the point where the frame meets the rising wood? Point B - This horizontally lines up with point C on the drawing which suggests to me that this is actually the point that meets the rising wood. That would mean that the line A may have something to do with the tenon. However the width of the frame at point B would be too wide for the rising wood? The second photo is where they sit on the rising wood for a bit more information for you. As you can see I have managed to really confuse myself here so any help would be great. I'm sorry that I cannot explain this any better Thanks Mark

I asked a mate thats into PE and he uses something like this for bending https://www.amazon.co.uk/ExcLent-Model-Photo-Bending-Parts/dp/B07VCRVJMN/ref=asc_df_B07VCRVJMN/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=480823740401&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9107795329982163659&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045455&hvtargid=pla-1068787235182&psc=1

Fortunately for the OP they live in the UK and Castello boxwood is easily available in very handy sizes https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ So you don't need to cut down or dry out your own wood. You just need tools to shape what you want to make. If you need to see the tools I don't live a million miles from you and if you're in the Midlands you are welcome to try out my tools. Importing a Byrnes saw is not that big a deal - Jim has just made me an 18' table for mine. I'm only a truck driver and I got it sorted out so it cannot be that expensive. Just compare it to a set of golf clubs that my mates buy - you'll be quids in. Luckily I don't play golf

Hi Tony thanks for the reply - That was a timely reminder to me to read a little bit further than I did! I'm using Ancre's plans which are so detailed and yes you are right they are discussed and the line on the framed sheer plan is for the limber channel. I'm thinking about cutting these in as I'm building in 1/24 scale. I've still not quite made my mind up on this.

Hi All I'm currently building Le Rochefort and I was hoping that someone could help me interpret a drawing. I believe that the line on the drawing that I have indicated is the limber channel that is cut into the bottom of the frames? Does anyone know if this is correct or am I misinterpreting this particular feature. Thanks Mark