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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    Seriously how can a glue dispenser that costs £28 be any good what so ever for the every day modeller. Do you know how much glue I could buy for that much money. Enough to build two complete ships and a lot of brushes to spread the glue too. Come on I understand that we should embrace technology but thats like buying an atomic clock. Its good but so is my £1 Casio and isn't an improvement in real life.
  2. No Idea
    Ha ha Kurt that is cruel - but oh so true. The really do peddle expensive c**p. Please feel free to insert your own vowels and consternates to create the word crap
  3. No Idea
    I just watched the video on their website and just burst out laughing!!!! I really like the way the guy is suddenly wearing glasses when using their tool like it makes him smarter for using it. He also starts smiling so it probably gave him wind too. Any tool that comes in blue for men and pink for women - well enough said. So in my opinion its an over priced tool that you just do not need. Buy a decent knife - in fact for that money you could buy many decent knives!
  4. No Idea
    Some good advice there but can I add that when I do this type of work I hold the piece in a very small vee block. It holds the brass very centrally and makes the job that little bit easier. I also use cobalt tipped drills when drilling brass. They go through without any bother even when the brass is hard.
  5. No Idea
    If I see any more I'll post it on here I've been cutting some planks on mine today and every time I use it I just get a huge smile on my face. Its so accurate and a pleasure to use. I wish Jim would build a spindle sander - I'd buy it in a heart beat!
  6. No Idea
    Try Cornwall model boats they do it https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Stripwood.html
  7. No Idea
    Kurt you are right silver soldering is really easy as long as you keep it spotlessly clean. Also when you clean the joint do not use any kind of sandpaper or emery paper as this will contaminate the surface. Always use wire wool and you'll get a really clean surface. To save loads of hassle try using a silver solder like this https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp It comes in a syringe and has the flux already built in. You just clean the joint and then apply a little paste and get it really hot. You will know when the joint is hot enough because the solder suddenly looks like very shiny molten silver. I've seen a lot of unsoldered joints simply because the heat was taken away too soon and the solder did not flow. Just practice on some old bits of brass and you'll get there and wonder what the fuss was all about.
  8. No Idea
    I too had this problem with my Byrnes tools so a good friend of mine turned a couple of reducers for me in his lathe. It makes hooking up so much easier. They are made of aluminium and are an interference fit on my hoover hose.
  9. No Idea
    I’ve got one of those and they are great. I have found it a bit to big though for my everyday modelling hammer. This is my favourite- it’s tiny and has changeable heads https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74060-Micro-Hammer/dp/B000BN6AAU
  10. No Idea
    Which way are you trying to bend the wood?? With the grain or laterally?? I have just bent some boxwood through 90 degrees laterally and it was very time consuming. The only way I could do it was by soaking the wood for 24 hours and then applying heat with a heat gun as I bent it around a former that I had previously made. I cannot tell you the amount of wood I wasted working this out so feel your pain. Soak for as long as you can so that the wood really absorbs the water and then apply heat as you form the wood. It will steam as you do it - its very satisfying once you've done it though.
  11. No Idea
    Hi All At the moment I'm planking a steam tug and came across a problem that I needed to solve. Just around the prop shaft the hull has a depression in it and no matter how a bent the planks, I could not get them to sit tight against the first layer of planking. The planks needed to be pushed into the hollow and my usual clamps just would not do this. So I made a simple clamp using a toggle clamp - Its fixed to two pieces of 1/8 thick brass which is then fixed to the bulkheads. It gives a nice gentle push down and solved my problem so I thought I would share it on here. I hope this helps someone else
  12. No Idea
    Yea I've never seen these before but I've just ordered one off of Amazon in the UK - Cheers mate for the heads up :)
  13. No Idea
    Hi Mike Good decision Iwata make nice airbrushes but I like to buy from a dealer so that I get a proper guarantee. I don't know the US so I can help you there. As for the compressor I have no experience of Iwata compressors but this is the one I use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titan-Precision-22L-Silent-Quiet-Dental-Medical-Clinic-Oil-Free-Air-Compressor/302941915256?epid=26027212772&hash=item4688bec878:g:QOsAAOSw42dZMVbQ Is very very quiet and has enough CFM to power a small professional airgun should you need it. You would probably never need another compressor. Your question about paint and vapour removal is very important. There are many small spray booths available for small parts that work very well - but if your only spraying say water based acrylics its not so important. As long as you are ok cleaning up any overspray a mask will suffice inside and a very understanding wife! For large parts I use my mates garage or just go outside as long as the weather is ok. If you want to spray solvent based paints then extraction is important. The fumes are explosive and very toxic to us so the correct extraction is required. I only use acrylics now as its so much easier and safer.
  14. No Idea
    I've quite fancied buying a Paasche Talon airbrush - the one that comes with 3 different size tips. In theory you could airbrush the tiniest part to a complete hull using the fan tip. But it has so many mixed reviews which really puts me off taking the plunge.
  15. No Idea
    Hi Kevin - Your work looks really nice and far nicer than a trawler would be. I think I prefer your version though as modern trawlers can be really basic vessels without much thought about the finer side of carpentry joints. Its more about practicality over looks due to the battering they get whilst out at sea earning a living. Your doing a great job and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
  16. No Idea
    If your not an artist then your choice of airbrush is really dependent on what you want to do. If you just want to substitute spray cans for an airbrush then a big nozzle on the brush is required and whether its single or double action is pretty much irrelevant. If you want to do detailed painting then the size/action of the airbrush is important. Double action brushes do give the greatest control but they do require practice and experience of what paints will flow through them. Single action brushes take far less practice but do require you to be quite competent in spraying in the first place. My advice for what its worth is buy a medium priced airbrush and have a good play with it on many mediums. It will teach you the benefits and also the limitations of the brush. I've used an Aztec airbrush for quite some time as I've liked the different nozzles that can be purchased for it. Its also a single and double action brush in one. I've now moved on but the Aztec is a great start for anyone.
  17. No Idea
    This has probably been asked a million times before - but are there any blade suppliers in the UK? If so what do you buy exactly? Ta Mark
  18. No Idea
    For the UK market it’s actually a very good price. If you bought it brand new, once you’ve paid taxes and shipping that saw would be about £950
  19. No Idea
    Byrnes table saw for sale in the UK and he's selling a thickness sander too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Byrnes-Model-Machines-Table-Saw-Accessories/264344805686?hash=item3d8c2da136:g:UfAAAOSww4Zc8a3S Don't say I don't look out for you guys :)
  20. No Idea
    Just chipping in on this subject as there are some very good comments here. I use HSS "jobbing bits" as we call them in the UK on wood as they fly though without any issues and never really wear out due to the lack of friction and heat. They are also easily sharpened when they go dull on a grinding wheel. For brass, steel and stainless steel I use cobalt bits which are a little more expensive but not overly so. They last for ages and just go through without any problems as long as they are lubricated if appropriate. Anything else in modelling is just over kill unless you are using exotic metals which are particularly hard.
  21. No Idea
    Also these people supply the ready cut strip wood. The don’t seem to have any boxwood at the moment but they do have many other woods https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cherry.html
  22. No Idea
    Hi - I’m a UK builder and I get all of my wood from these people http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ The Castillo boxwood they supply is great quality and their service is excellent too
  23. No Idea
    Hi - I've recently cut some 13mm thick boxwood into 1.5mm planks on my Byrnes saw. I used a .040 slitting blade and had no problems at all doing it in one cut. I made about 30 planks which I then cut in half to 6mm using a .020 slitting blade. This saw is very good but take all of the advice given above as it can bite if you don't respect it. The only thing that concerned me was how hot the motor got but it cooled down okay and has been perfect ever since. Now the only reason that I did this was because I ordered the wrong size wood so I thought that I would just give it a go. It really showed me just how good my saw is. Sorry I should have said that I placed a metal rule as a spacer on the fence that ended half way along the blade. This was to prevent the back of the blade grabbing the wood and getting a kick back due to the lack of a splitter on this tool
  24. No Idea
    Hi Dave - If you want some really good advice regarding building and using a Perkasa this is the place to ask https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php There have been many built on here and they tend to specialise in RC too. You will also find all of the model shops and websites that you need in the UK
  25. No Idea
    I too am lucky enough to have one of Jim's table saws and I shipped it to the UK. As Grant has said the cost of shipping is high; in fact by the time I had paid shipping and also 20% Customs VAT on both the cost of the saw and postage it pretty much doubled the price. Was it worth it - absolutely in fact I have since bought a thickness sander from him too. There is no way I could justify the cost but its just the best gear you can get, and your only here once. I should have bought them earlier!

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