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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    Thanks Mark that's a very good idea and I'm sure that I have seen these at our local hardware superstore.
  2. No Idea
    Hi Jaager Thanks very much for the information it really has helped. I think you are right about the timber being a bit wet but I'm learning as I go. I think when I order my next batch of wood from my supplier I'll pick up the phone and have a good chat with them regarding my needs rather than just ordering online. Thanks again - Mark
  3. No Idea
    Hi Charles and Jaager Thanks for your replies they have been quite insightful for me. Firstly saving the wood that I have seems to be working using the technique as described above. I'll find out for definite tomorrow but so far things look ok. I've also looked at the end grain and yes it does look like they were cut by flat sawing. If I look very hard I can also see how the grain was affected the wood too. I think one of the biggest mistakes that I have been making is stacking all of my wood in one block with no ventilation between them and also different lengths so some are not supported at the ends at all. I like the idea of using boxes too. This does seem a bit counter intuitive thought as surely the wood gets no ventilation when inside the box? I have plenty of room to store the wood and the humidity in the room doesn't really change that much. It's a new home with all of the best insulation and triple glazing so the temperature and humidity is quite constant. If you could give me a steer on my understanding of using boxes that would be great Mark
  4. No Idea
    Hi I hope that this has not been covered before and if it has I apologise. I have seen quite a lot of information regarding the storing of rough cut wood that needs to dry over a period of time, but how do you store you cut and planed wood. I'm talking about thin planks that are maybe 6mm thick, 150mm wide and 1000mm long? The reason I ask is because I have a couple of boxwood planks of this size that I have simply put on the top of a flat cupboard directly on top of each other. I got them down today and they have warped across their width? Should I have separated them with some battons or something like this? The room is well ventilated and just like the rest of our home remains quite a constant temperature. Your thoughts would be very welcome as I was just about to buy quite a lot of timber just like this for my next build. I need it to stay in good straight condition for a period of time and don't want to waste my hard earned money through a lack of understanding. Mark
  5. No Idea
    Kevin that really is a lovely build - a fantastic job and I agree the case really shows off your work.
  6. No Idea
    I've started looking at the Vcarve tutorials on YouTube as this is probably the way forward for me. I have a huge learning curve so I'll see where it goes. Keep the pictures coming marsaly as they are amazing!
  7. No Idea
    I fully agree with this - The level of carvings that can be achieved by CNC is astounding. Although I do not have the required IT skills to do this sort of thing I would happily pay someone to do it for me. I tried carving a figurehead and it turned out looking like a bad zombie holding a skateboard. There is no way my carving skills would end up on a ship.
  8. No Idea
    That really is such clean and precise carving - I have to ask how you did it? I wish I could achieve such a nice crisp finish
  9. No Idea
    Stunning work with such precision!
  10. No Idea
    Thanks for the review of this book. I’ve ordered mine today and happily await it’s arrival
  11. No Idea
    Bob spot on - Tools are only as safe as the user and their experience. Whilst experience has to be earned, knowledge can be gained through YouTube and many other places. In the demo above she is using a soft wood which is pretty forgiving when you get things wrong. A hard wood on the other hand is far less forgiving but this should not put anyone off. Get reading and watching and then put some time in on the table saw. You'll get it in no time and the results are worth the learning.
  12. No Idea
    To prevent this type of kick back when cutting thin planks you still need to push the wood on the thin side. This stops the wood from turning in toward the blade which is dangerous. All you need Is a sacrificial push stick that passes over the blade and carries the thin piece through. Use a nice big piece to keep your fingers well clear of the blade
  13. No Idea
    It is but just don’t follow her technique as it’s dangerous. Lots of kick backs due to pushing the wrong side of the work piece and using the fence and mitre together. Get a good book on table saw practice as these little machines are quite powerful for their size
  14. No Idea
    I agree razor saws are great and come in different teeth per inch too. I quite often like to cut too long and then sand back to my required length.
  15. No Idea
    Here’s another example to help you though this time the head is in the horizontal position. I’m milling the cap for a bow bollard and I also cut a shallow rebate in it too. Have the cutter at high speed and take lots of shallow cuts. After I had cut the correct diameter I then set the head vertically and milled the correct thickness.
  16. No Idea
    Hi DelF I have to agree with you its a very good bit of kit for what we need. Here's a ring a cut from 3mm boxwood I think it came out ok
  17. No Idea
    Hi wefalck yes I do this with metal too. I have this milling machine and dividing head and with limited tooling comes imagination. If I'm gluing or soldering my piece to a dowel to rod to get it in the dividing head I leave it thicker than the finished article. That way when I do remove the mount if it takes a bit of the job with it I still have plenty of material left to clean it up. I also have the proxxon vice and for the MF70 mill its more than adequate if a bit over priced for what it is. Its a great mill for wood mainly because of the very high spindle speeds.
  18. No Idea
    This can be done quite easily with the dividing head that you have. You can turn it by hand once the job is locked into the vice just mind your fingers. If the piece you want to cut is not round, glue it to a piece of round dowelling to mount it onto the dividing head. Once you have finished machining cut it away from the dowel and clean it up.
  19. No Idea
    I've been milling some pear wood on the same machine and I too have had chipping issues. I solved this by running the machine flat out at 20,000 rpm and using a twin flute cutter to get rid of the chipping quickly. Sorry my reply is late but I've only been doing this work this week
  20. No Idea
    Yep that’s what I see too
  21. No Idea
    If you cannot afford a compressor the air cans are a waste of money. Instead get the spare wheel out of your car and inflate it to a nice high pressure. Then just connect your airbrush to the valve - job done.
  22. No Idea
    I use the Byrnes thickness sander quite a lot mainly on boxwood, pear wood, and mahogany. I’ve had it now for 18 months and I have only changed the abrasive that Jim supplies once in that time. I use a Bosch Vac and I find that it runs with no dust in the room as it extracts directly above the sanding drum. It’s extremely accurate and I love it. However - like all tools it does take a bit of time to get used to its feel and only then will you get the best from it. But that’s true of all tools.
  23. No Idea
    Wow - That truly is just beautiful. You have an amazing talent and should be so proud of your work.
  24. No Idea
    I use a chisel tipped black marker pen 3mm wide but most importantly it must have archival ink in it. I think the last one I bought cost about £3 so they are dead cheap. I have found that they don't bleed into the wood and putting poly on the top has no effect either. As always do a small test first
  25. No Idea
    Thanks for the tips all - I've ordered some erasers I think that its a great idea!

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