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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    I too have had this problem once or twice on my Byrnes saw. Once like you I was using a blade with many teeth and feeding the wood in too fast. Another time was because the wood I was feeding in was slightly warped. So although the blade was above the wood at the start of the cut it was level further along. And this problem becomes amplified because the blades have no clearance on the kerf so they bind and throw the work piece upwards. Over time and with much use I've discovered these quirks and tend not to get them anymore simply though experience
  2. No Idea
    Or you could always make a sled thats does exactly the same thing - for the builders that have a Byrnes saw a miniature one of these can be made very easily. Here's the idea
  3. No Idea
    Hi davec - I used to have the same problem as you but I solved it using my own table saw. As I understand it all you need is a true clean edge that you can work from? Or at least that was my issue. I solved this by fixing my 1 metre strips of wood to an aluminium 1m straight edge on the side of the fence. I then run the wood through the saw making sure that the straight edge runs against the fence. The aluminium is obviously no where near the blade and gives me a true edge on my timber. One cut is all it takes and everything else follows. Saved me from buying a jointer Mark
  4. No Idea
    I could be wrong but they look like they are parallel to the deck to me
  5. No Idea
    I've just finished a deck and used a 3mm wide marker pen that contained black archival ink. Being 3mm wide chisel tip it was easy to run down the side of the planks and it did not bleed into the grain. I think it cost £3 and the results are really good
  6. No Idea
    Hi Tracey its good to see Perma- Grit on here and thanks for letting us know about the competition. Going back to my comment - is it possible for Perma-Grit to make a two sided block that has 400 grit on one side and maybe 240 - 320 grit on the other? I would definitely buy the block sanders with this combination as my current ones are just to course on the course side. I do use them by not often enough - I really like the flatness of them and would like to use them more.
  7. No Idea
    I agree with the comments above - I have many of these tools and the finest side is still quite course for our needs. If they could make them with a less course abrasive that would be great for our kind of modelling. Unfortunately mine sit in the drawer more than they are used.
  8. No Idea
    Noel thanks for the tip on the vice I think I may order one of those as they do look like a good piece of kit. Unfortunately I must confess to not being a yam yam. Although I have lived in the Black Country for 30 years I am in fact a Londoner - although my neighbours consider me to be local now!! marsalv - I thought that your vice may have been modified for more usefulness. Can I please also ask what type of cutters are you using in your mill. They look like router bits with a slim shank. I must also say that your ropes look extremely realistic which will sit very nicely with your amazing build
  9. No Idea
    Your work is just simply stunning and very inspiring too. Can I ask about the vice you use on your mill? I see that it tilts which is a very useful thing to have. Did you purchase it as a tilting vice or have you modified an existing vice. The reason I ask is because I could do with one just like it.
  10. No Idea
    Hi - I use a Paashe Talon TG and its the best airbrush I've ever used. It comes with 3 different needle sizes and the largest also has a fan cap for big jobs. Its a double action brush which has very precise control and quite a large paint cup too. Its also very quick and easy to clean after use and for a brush that can do from the finest pattern to a wide fan of paint I would recommend it as a very good all round airbrush.
  11. No Idea
    I agree with Kurt - I use Vallejo acrylics and they are great. The pigment in them is very fine and there's loads of it so the coverage is very good. Just add a few drops of flow improver which is also sold by them and you won't get a dry tip on your airbrush either
  12. No Idea
    Boxwood in the UK and they are a very good supplier http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/
  13. No Idea
    Hi Blue Ocean - If you need Aluminium soldering I've not yet seen a decent solution. I'm an ex coded welder and if I needed Ali joining I'd pop into my local welders and ask them to TIG weld it for me. It takes them seconds to do our sort of job and my local shop would do it for the price of a pint of beer.
  14. No Idea
    I guess so but what I meant was I just use a 3/8 spanner on the shaft flats and hold it to undo the blade locking nut. Easy peasy 👍
  15. No Idea
    That’s ingenious but why not just shove a 3/8 spanner on it? That’s what I do.
  16. No Idea
    Your right it is rubbing alcohol and this is what I use to thin my epoxy resin and also clean my tools with. I’ve been using it for years but anything more than a 10% dilution just doesn’t seem to work well for me. I buy a litre of IPA which is 99% pure if that’s the correct term for about £5
  17. No Idea
    Just realised I should have included a picture of the cloth with the resin applied before it was trimmed otherwise it doesn’t make sense - sorry. The resin has just been applied and is wet.
  18. No Idea
    It’s called IPA in the UK and is very cheap on eBay.
  19. No Idea
    I use 49g fibre cloth and finishing epoxy resin. The cloth really does make all the difference for a smooth long lasting finish. It takes 3 coats of resin to get an immaculate finish. The first just coats the hull. The second is used to apply the cloth and the third fills the weave of the cloth. Here’s a few pictures of what I’m working on at the moment. It hasn’t had its last coat yet but it’s coming out ok. The best results I’ve had is applying the resin using a 1” roller and using thin coats. The last two pictures are of the second coat dried and the excess cloth removed. I hope this helps you
  20. No Idea
    I agree with all of the above. The micrometer adjustment is what this saw was built for. The sled makes the job really easy and very safe too. Just double up on your blades as they are not that expensive and you’ll go through a few except for the carbide blades. These seem to stay sharp for a very long time.
  21. No Idea
    Yep I use my table saw every week and I use my thickness sander about the same too. Derek you will not be disappointed
  22. No Idea
    Sorry I clicked on the wrong quote - its an age thing! Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  23. No Idea
    Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  24. No Idea
    These sanders are great. We get them here in the UK from the Lidl supermarket for £29.99. Great value!
  25. No Idea
    The only thing that the manufacturer reckons this tool won't cut through is bull sh*t - if you've got £400 quid to buy one of these you seriously need help or medication. I've loved this thread its made me laugh so much can't wait for the next one like this

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