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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    Hi DelF I have to agree with you its a very good bit of kit for what we need. Here's a ring a cut from 3mm boxwood I think it came out ok
  2. No Idea
    Hi wefalck yes I do this with metal too. I have this milling machine and dividing head and with limited tooling comes imagination. If I'm gluing or soldering my piece to a dowel to rod to get it in the dividing head I leave it thicker than the finished article. That way when I do remove the mount if it takes a bit of the job with it I still have plenty of material left to clean it up. I also have the proxxon vice and for the MF70 mill its more than adequate if a bit over priced for what it is. Its a great mill for wood mainly because of the very high spindle speeds.
  3. No Idea
    This can be done quite easily with the dividing head that you have. You can turn it by hand once the job is locked into the vice just mind your fingers. If the piece you want to cut is not round, glue it to a piece of round dowelling to mount it onto the dividing head. Once you have finished machining cut it away from the dowel and clean it up.
  4. No Idea
    I've been milling some pear wood on the same machine and I too have had chipping issues. I solved this by running the machine flat out at 20,000 rpm and using a twin flute cutter to get rid of the chipping quickly. Sorry my reply is late but I've only been doing this work this week
  5. No Idea
    Yep that’s what I see too
  6. No Idea
    If you cannot afford a compressor the air cans are a waste of money. Instead get the spare wheel out of your car and inflate it to a nice high pressure. Then just connect your airbrush to the valve - job done.
  7. No Idea
    I use the Byrnes thickness sander quite a lot mainly on boxwood, pear wood, and mahogany. I’ve had it now for 18 months and I have only changed the abrasive that Jim supplies once in that time. I use a Bosch Vac and I find that it runs with no dust in the room as it extracts directly above the sanding drum. It’s extremely accurate and I love it. However - like all tools it does take a bit of time to get used to its feel and only then will you get the best from it. But that’s true of all tools.
  8. No Idea
    Wow - That truly is just beautiful. You have an amazing talent and should be so proud of your work.
  9. No Idea
    I use a chisel tipped black marker pen 3mm wide but most importantly it must have archival ink in it. I think the last one I bought cost about £3 so they are dead cheap. I have found that they don't bleed into the wood and putting poly on the top has no effect either. As always do a small test first
  10. No Idea
    Thanks for the tips all - I've ordered some erasers I think that its a great idea!
  11. No Idea
    I too have had this problem once or twice on my Byrnes saw. Once like you I was using a blade with many teeth and feeding the wood in too fast. Another time was because the wood I was feeding in was slightly warped. So although the blade was above the wood at the start of the cut it was level further along. And this problem becomes amplified because the blades have no clearance on the kerf so they bind and throw the work piece upwards. Over time and with much use I've discovered these quirks and tend not to get them anymore simply though experience
  12. No Idea
    Or you could always make a sled thats does exactly the same thing - for the builders that have a Byrnes saw a miniature one of these can be made very easily. Here's the idea
  13. No Idea
    Hi davec - I used to have the same problem as you but I solved it using my own table saw. As I understand it all you need is a true clean edge that you can work from? Or at least that was my issue. I solved this by fixing my 1 metre strips of wood to an aluminium 1m straight edge on the side of the fence. I then run the wood through the saw making sure that the straight edge runs against the fence. The aluminium is obviously no where near the blade and gives me a true edge on my timber. One cut is all it takes and everything else follows. Saved me from buying a jointer Mark
  14. No Idea
    I could be wrong but they look like they are parallel to the deck to me
  15. No Idea
    I've just finished a deck and used a 3mm wide marker pen that contained black archival ink. Being 3mm wide chisel tip it was easy to run down the side of the planks and it did not bleed into the grain. I think it cost £3 and the results are really good
  16. No Idea
    Hi Tracey its good to see Perma- Grit on here and thanks for letting us know about the competition. Going back to my comment - is it possible for Perma-Grit to make a two sided block that has 400 grit on one side and maybe 240 - 320 grit on the other? I would definitely buy the block sanders with this combination as my current ones are just to course on the course side. I do use them by not often enough - I really like the flatness of them and would like to use them more.
  17. No Idea
    I agree with the comments above - I have many of these tools and the finest side is still quite course for our needs. If they could make them with a less course abrasive that would be great for our kind of modelling. Unfortunately mine sit in the drawer more than they are used.
  18. No Idea
    Noel thanks for the tip on the vice I think I may order one of those as they do look like a good piece of kit. Unfortunately I must confess to not being a yam yam. Although I have lived in the Black Country for 30 years I am in fact a Londoner - although my neighbours consider me to be local now!! marsalv - I thought that your vice may have been modified for more usefulness. Can I please also ask what type of cutters are you using in your mill. They look like router bits with a slim shank. I must also say that your ropes look extremely realistic which will sit very nicely with your amazing build
  19. No Idea
    Your work is just simply stunning and very inspiring too. Can I ask about the vice you use on your mill? I see that it tilts which is a very useful thing to have. Did you purchase it as a tilting vice or have you modified an existing vice. The reason I ask is because I could do with one just like it.
  20. No Idea
    Hi - I use a Paashe Talon TG and its the best airbrush I've ever used. It comes with 3 different needle sizes and the largest also has a fan cap for big jobs. Its a double action brush which has very precise control and quite a large paint cup too. Its also very quick and easy to clean after use and for a brush that can do from the finest pattern to a wide fan of paint I would recommend it as a very good all round airbrush.
  21. No Idea
    I agree with Kurt - I use Vallejo acrylics and they are great. The pigment in them is very fine and there's loads of it so the coverage is very good. Just add a few drops of flow improver which is also sold by them and you won't get a dry tip on your airbrush either
  22. No Idea
    Boxwood in the UK and they are a very good supplier http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/
  23. No Idea
    Hi Blue Ocean - If you need Aluminium soldering I've not yet seen a decent solution. I'm an ex coded welder and if I needed Ali joining I'd pop into my local welders and ask them to TIG weld it for me. It takes them seconds to do our sort of job and my local shop would do it for the price of a pint of beer.
  24. No Idea
    I guess so but what I meant was I just use a 3/8 spanner on the shaft flats and hold it to undo the blade locking nut. Easy peasy 👍
  25. No Idea
    That’s ingenious but why not just shove a 3/8 spanner on it? That’s what I do.

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