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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    If your not an artist then your choice of airbrush is really dependent on what you want to do. If you just want to substitute spray cans for an airbrush then a big nozzle on the brush is required and whether its single or double action is pretty much irrelevant. If you want to do detailed painting then the size/action of the airbrush is important. Double action brushes do give the greatest control but they do require practice and experience of what paints will flow through them. Single action brushes take far less practice but do require you to be quite competent in spraying in the first place. My advice for what its worth is buy a medium priced airbrush and have a good play with it on many mediums. It will teach you the benefits and also the limitations of the brush. I've used an Aztec airbrush for quite some time as I've liked the different nozzles that can be purchased for it. Its also a single and double action brush in one. I've now moved on but the Aztec is a great start for anyone.
  2. No Idea
    This has probably been asked a million times before - but are there any blade suppliers in the UK? If so what do you buy exactly? Ta Mark
  3. No Idea
    For the UK market it’s actually a very good price. If you bought it brand new, once you’ve paid taxes and shipping that saw would be about £950
  4. No Idea
    Byrnes table saw for sale in the UK and he's selling a thickness sander too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Byrnes-Model-Machines-Table-Saw-Accessories/264344805686?hash=item3d8c2da136:g:UfAAAOSww4Zc8a3S Don't say I don't look out for you guys :)
  5. No Idea
    Just chipping in on this subject as there are some very good comments here. I use HSS "jobbing bits" as we call them in the UK on wood as they fly though without any issues and never really wear out due to the lack of friction and heat. They are also easily sharpened when they go dull on a grinding wheel. For brass, steel and stainless steel I use cobalt bits which are a little more expensive but not overly so. They last for ages and just go through without any problems as long as they are lubricated if appropriate. Anything else in modelling is just over kill unless you are using exotic metals which are particularly hard.
  6. No Idea
    Also these people supply the ready cut strip wood. The don’t seem to have any boxwood at the moment but they do have many other woods https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cherry.html
  7. No Idea
    Hi - I’m a UK builder and I get all of my wood from these people http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ The Castillo boxwood they supply is great quality and their service is excellent too
  8. No Idea
    Hi - I've recently cut some 13mm thick boxwood into 1.5mm planks on my Byrnes saw. I used a .040 slitting blade and had no problems at all doing it in one cut. I made about 30 planks which I then cut in half to 6mm using a .020 slitting blade. This saw is very good but take all of the advice given above as it can bite if you don't respect it. The only thing that concerned me was how hot the motor got but it cooled down okay and has been perfect ever since. Now the only reason that I did this was because I ordered the wrong size wood so I thought that I would just give it a go. It really showed me just how good my saw is. Sorry I should have said that I placed a metal rule as a spacer on the fence that ended half way along the blade. This was to prevent the back of the blade grabbing the wood and getting a kick back due to the lack of a splitter on this tool
  9. No Idea
    Hi Dave - If you want some really good advice regarding building and using a Perkasa this is the place to ask https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php There have been many built on here and they tend to specialise in RC too. You will also find all of the model shops and websites that you need in the UK
  10. No Idea
    I too am lucky enough to have one of Jim's table saws and I shipped it to the UK. As Grant has said the cost of shipping is high; in fact by the time I had paid shipping and also 20% Customs VAT on both the cost of the saw and postage it pretty much doubled the price. Was it worth it - absolutely in fact I have since bought a thickness sander from him too. There is no way I could justify the cost but its just the best gear you can get, and your only here once. I should have bought them earlier!
  11. No Idea
    Hi druxey - I can't help but feel that the garboard plank gives new builders more issues than any other plank. I've read so many descriptions of this plank that it even confuses me. I think we need to come up with a more simple description of it. Yes its generally wider, yes it can go through a 90 degree twist at the stern and yes it needs to be parallel to the keel. But its still a plank that needs to be made just like all of the others. There are more clever builders on here than me that could attempt to resolve this issue in plain language.
  12. No Idea
    Was the bulkhead laser cut? Did you remove all of the burnt edge first. The ash that’s left can stop a decent gluing joint
  13. No Idea
    I have had a very enjoyable Sunday afternoon reading you build from start to the present. I think your approach to using edged tools is absolutely commendable and your build is beautiful, there is so much to learn right here. Having seen this I am very tempted to buy some carving tools from Mikhail and was wondering if there is a webpage to look at there tools? I'm looking forward to the next update.
  14. No Idea
    Thats very interesting Kurt and thanks for sharing
  15. No Idea
    Hi Kurt that's really interesting as I have been leaning to the same conclusion as you, especially when ripping long lengths of thick hardwood for planks. Can I ask which is your preferred carbide blade?
  16. No Idea
    Just a guess but I think he left the long Allen key in which locks the blade height and it may have rattling around
  17. No Idea
    Mine does this sometimes and all it is on mine is the blade catching on the zero clearance insert. It makes a tinkling noise but stops after a while. It’s amplified on theses saws because the insert is thin aluminium and underneath it is basically a sound box. Nothing to worry about at all. Without doubt my Byrnes saw is the best tool I have ever bought.
  18. No Idea
    Hi - I can see why you may want to swap woods - but as you have said this is your first wooden boat build. Why not just build it and get some great experience under your belt. You will learn loads and solve many small problems along the way too. There are some really tricky planks that you would have to cut and it will take you ages. This may put you off a bit for a first attempt as it should be fun and inspire you to more complex builds. Just my thoughts that’s all 👍
  19. No Idea
    You can sometimes really over think things. I’m terrible for doing this and my experience has shown that more often than not the doing is much easier than first believed. Just go for it and solve each small problem as it arises. If your unsure whether to glue something, clamp it in place first and have a play around with it. You’ll get the idea but make sure you have fun and enjoy your build
  20. No Idea
    Yea your right there but what’s the worst that can happen. It’s a diluted mix of PVA which most likely is just going to coat the surface of the wood. Nothing more and nothing less Ah come on that’s hardly inspiration for this builder and has nothing to do with their original question. Personally I wish the builder really good luck and I hope it turns out great 👍
  21. No Idea
    If this is the kit I’m thinking of the planks are already spilled “shaped” by the manufacturer and the hull is clinker built. This would mean that there’s going to be no lateral bending forces, in fact I bet there’s very little bending involved at all due to the pre-manufactured planks. Its also a very narrow hull which will also help. Personally I would follow the instructions word for word as the kit is designed with ease of build in mind. If I’m thinking of the wrong kit then just ignore my ramblings 😂
  22. No Idea
    Great get reading they are fantastic sources of information. They will explain about lining the hull, tapering planks, fairing the frames and working out planking widths and runs. As you progress it will all make sense and make your planking so much easier for you. And it will look great too. Don’t get too hung up on how to heat the wood for bending. All methods work as they all involve heat and it’s a case of finding what works best for you. I like to use a hot air gun whereas others like to drop planks straight into a boiling kettle. It all works no problem. As for clamping there are many options such as the micro mark clamps to name but one. I’m sure others will be along soon to give you a few pointers.
  23. No Idea
    Hi - firstly if you haven’t read the planking for beginners in the articles database it’s a great place to start. It really will answer most of your questions. Personally I don’t use pins to hold planks I much prefer to use clamps but that’s my choice and others will use their own methods. I haven’t made the Rattlesnake but looking at the pictures the frames are quite spaced apart. This will make planking harder to get the correct shape especially if it’s single planked. Can you fill between the frames with some balsa to get the Hull shape before planking? If you can it will make the job much easier. Now as you have decided to steam your planks, you will make them flexible but at the same time the moisture content will increase. This expands the wood so you need to clamp/pin/hold your planks in place and then let the plank dry out. Once this has occurred you can then glue it in place. If you don’t then usually the glue doesn’t bond very well and also the plank shrinks a bit. This will then give you gaps. By the sound of things you have an electric aeropiccola bender which is a great bit of kit so why not try heating and bending your planks with that first? Have a good read through the data base and good luck with your build 👍. Effective planking is all about the planning of the entire job before one plank is even laid.
  24. No Idea
    Selecting glue is such a personal opinion, as what I use would not suit another builder. I guess it depends on how you want to actually do your build and how long you want to take doing it. Personally I only use aliphatic resin as it suits my needs but does take a while to dry. That means that I need to plan how I clamp my joints and it takes longer to do rather than using CA. For me building is a pleasure and not a rush but other builders need to be quicker. My way is not superior to the others its just my way and you need to experiment to find the glue that suits you building style.
  25. No Idea
    Goodness me - If I read the above post I would give up and go home. Its a model boat not a critical piece of a nuclear plant that has to be so precise that lives are at risk. Take the good advice above and just trace it out buddy. Making boats is not that hard really, oh and good luck with your build

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