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No Idea

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Everything posted by No Idea

  1. No Idea
    Hi Anthony - there is a fence fitted to the tilting table which I always use. Small stock I have found does not have to touch the bed as the tilting table is now the new bed. It’s hard to explain but once you’ve had a good play it all comes together. I’m sorry that I cannot be more descriptive
  2. No Idea
    I’ve got the tilting table and I find it easy to use. The reason is I actually use it and like any tool the more you use it the easier it becomes. It was a bit awkward at first but so was my first block plane. Once mastered it’s a great bit of kit and I do not regret my purchase at all. I’m just waiting on Jim to contact me so that I can upgrade the table to the larger size.
  3. No Idea
    Cheers Bruce - This is what I use here's a pack of 3 for £7.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sakura-Pigma-Graphic-Pigment-Calligraphy/dp/B01M24ONH8/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=3mm+chisel+tip+archival+ink+pen&qid=1606586152&sr=8-16 Have a play first but I have found that my best results are by using it on both planks that meet. Good luck!
  4. No Idea
    Hi Bruce - I've just taken this picture of my current build. Its pear wood planking with archival ink for the tarring. I've also experimented with boxwood and I had no bleeding with that either. I would suggest getting a pen and doing some trials first but I've never had it bleed
  5. No Idea
    I use a chisel tipped marker that is filled with archival ink. You can get them on the internet and the ink doesn't bleed. It makes the job so much easier.
  6. No Idea
    In my experience the best cut off switch is my wife - when she comes into my workshop and tells me enough is enough and dinners ready Always works for me!
  7. No Idea
    Hi All Not my sale but I found this today if it helps any builders on here. I use mine quite a lot its a great little tool. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aeropiccola-Electric-Plank-Bender/324371420787?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225076%26meid%3D9afe999851414b62ae580618277f14b5%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D293634870779%26itm%3D324371420787%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A4cfe2134-2689-11eb-8ac4-7aadce336392|parentrq%3Ac74023d21750a4d361e9136bfffa690c|iid%3A1 Mark
  8. No Idea
    Thats great thanks very much for your help - I'm off to buy a glue stick and get going on this build
  9. No Idea
    Hi Per thanks for the reply - do you use something like this Pritt stick? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pritt-Original-Childproof-washable-cardboard/dp/B004QFI99Y
  10. No Idea
    Hi All Could someone please recommend a good glue that I can purchase in the UK for fixing my paper templates to the wood for cutting out and shaping? I would imagine that the templates will be in place for quite a while but I don't want to do damage to the wood underneath when I remove them. Thanks for you help Mark
  11. No Idea
    Hi George - The build looks great. For stantions I used billings own 3 hole brass ones that can be purchased from Cornwall Model Boats if that helps. Here's a link to nearly 700 photo's of my build just in case it helps you. https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/album/bXv Mark
  12. No Idea
    WOW ......................WOW............Your work is just beautiful. I just find this build so inspiring - fantastic work.
  13. No Idea
    I helped a friend who was struggling using silver solder. His problem turned out to be he was cleaning the joints using sand paper which was contaminating the joint. A quick swap to wire wool and the problem was solved.
  14. No Idea
    Hi Bob I have to say that I've used the miniature block plane to finish off just about all of the planks on my current build. I use this and a Lie Nielson violin makers plane and although the latter can remove more in one pass I would say that they are equal in capability on my builds. It's a great little plane that genuinely does the job in both removing excess material and cutting bevels. I have sharpened it twice in 3 years and it hasn't let me down or shown any signs of wear either Mark
  15. No Idea
    Hi James if you don't use these suppliers give them a try. I've just had 8 planks for Castello delivered for a very reasonable price - and they cut them to the thickness that I wanted rather than what was advertised on their website. They also ran them all through a jointer for me so that I have good edges for my table saw at no extra cost. I agree that actually the ebony you get is a good price - but it would take me two lifetimes to use that much of it so that makes it prohibitive for me.
  16. No Idea
    My wood suppler sells ebony https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/african-black-ebony-sawn-board-no-5.html £200 for one small plank of it. The dust from ebony is also quite toxic too. If I was in a club where 3 or 4 of us needed some it would be worth it but not for me at this price. I'll leave it to the guitar builders as lovely as it is. I too would either dye or paint the wood.
  17. No Idea
    Give the wood a coat of Z-poxy finishing resin and once dry lightly sand it down. It will give you a glass like finish that’s ready for painting. You will definitely not see any grain at all
  18. No Idea
    Just beautiful work I am truly amazed. It looks like you have two mills now too or have you upgraded your proxxon mill? I like mine but find the indexing is not that accurate.
  19. No Idea
    I buy all of my blades from Model Machines I just tend to order quite a few at a time because its expensive to import into the UK. My view is if I buy from the original supplier it keeps them in business. I have too many friends who buy cheaper from China and then wonder why their favourite model supplier has gone out of business. I had a load of blades from Jim about 6 months ago and they will keep me going for the next year
  20. No Idea
    I currently use a Paashe Talon 3.......the best airbrush I've ever owned. It's a double action with an internal mix. But the best bit is.....its easy to use, comes with 3 different size needles including a fan cap for big jobs but its also so easy to clean. Great bit of kit for the money.
  21. No Idea
    Kurt this is spot on - I should have said this in my post. If you tip the saw so that the fence is parallel with the floor it makes the job so much easier. When I first used my tilting table I did struggle a bit as it does take some getting used too. But when you get it sussed what a great addition to the saw. My advise to anyone using this attachment is to have a good play with it until you are happy with your use of it. Once sorted you won't look back as any angle is achievable with a clean cut that can be repeated as many times as you like.
  22. No Idea
    The arbor on these saws is fixed so this adapter tilts the table instead. I use mine quite extensively and like all tools - the more you use it the easier the use and set up become . I can set my tilting table up in minutes now and I wouldn't be without out it.
  23. No Idea
    Awesome!!! I remember building this kit when I was 10 years old in 1977!!!! I think your skills are top notch!
  24. No Idea
    Hi Pete you are right - but the main reason that I use sacrificial backing though is to stop the cutter making contact with the machine slide bed
  25. No Idea
    If the part is a tricky shape a red scotch bright pad works well to remove the char

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