druxey

Welcome back and enjoy your new home, Ben!

It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.

It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.

Are those wooden plugs in the hawse holes?

I continue to complete the bow.      

Finally back on my Le Rochefort after building balsa planes for over a year. I’ve been figuring out where I left off. First thing is to taper the tops of the frames inside. They’re close now but I still have work to do on them. Since I used the Hahn method the bottoms, floors, chocks do not have the complex joints in each half of the frame. The keelson will be another major headache to notch and fit if I decide to notch it at all. I’m going to assemble this hull and when done and able to remove of from the jig take stock of it and decide to either continue or start over completely. 

If you can cut the joints with a very sharp chisel and avoid sanding, you may get better results. If you sand a piece in the vise you will 'rock'. It is almost impossible to get a flat, level joint surface using that method.

Just a small update. I've now replaced the incorrect sections of forecastle rail with the more appropriate chain and have left the removable section on the port side lying on the deck in preparation for the supposed recovery of the port anchor. I've also been doing some repair work on the well deck that is not readily visible.
 
John
 

Just a photo because I was dividing the second belt on my Spinx...maybe it helps with some visuals. I divided the hull first in the appropriate belts that you find in the helpful links posted earlier. On this photo i'm dividing the second belt at the bow. You do this with every belt...until it's closed

It was articles on builders like him in The Model Engineer that inspired me as a kid.

Nothing like building a model that you can barely lift! 
 
John

And I don't see any Dremel tools either ...
 
 

You gotta love seeing the "Byrnes Bench"!!

Great News Ben...Glad to see you almost making sawdust again.

Well the move was completed after our new home was built on Oak Island.
The new model workshop/office is far smaller than my previous one at only 13x13 but I’m using shelving and other things to maximize space which is ongoing.
Winchelsea is now waiting for me to start Chapter 7 on the Quarter Deck hopefully in the next couple of weeks as soon as I find all the parts!

Work has restarted on Chapter 7, all of the beam positions were checked again and numbered 1-30, #25 was permantly installed and I have started adjusting the bulkheads and doors into position, I really happy to be back building again.
 
ben

From your drawing I would hesitantly say that round-up did increase in this specific case. Lucky you, Mark! If you don't increase it, the 'spring' of the stern gallery will not look right. You are correct to be concerned about this detail.

I'm so sorry that you were scammed, Aleksandr.
 
I've tried milling such moldings and still prefer the control of using a scraper that has been shaped from a scrap piece of hacksaw blade. Using a mill sometimes 'eats' the work as one feeds it through! Perhaps this was a lucky accident for you after all.

Very entertaining, Haiiaphnk! Presumably a crowned lion figure?

That looks very sweet indeed, Mark! You might want to varnish or paint the lead to prevent future deterioration.

Taking shape quickly! And a lovely shape, too.

If you can cut the joints with a very sharp chisel and avoid sanding, you may get better results. If you sand a piece in the vise you will 'rock'. It is almost impossible to get a flat, level joint surface using that method.

Slight rounding of all corners on a boat are appropriate.
 
You are dong a very nice job on the model so far.

Greetings Fellow Modelers
 
Thanks to all for your fine comments, for the "likes" and to those watching quietly.
 
 
More Fish Hold Stuff
 
Continuing on with the fish hold, the next step was to build the back walls of the bunker partitioning.  In the drawing below, the hold is defined by the yellow cross-hatching and the back wall partitioning by the green lines.  The back walls are individual bunker partitions, but for this model I've simplified it as a single one-piece wall.  The blue dots are the vertical posts used to segment the hold into individual bunkers/pens.
 

 
 
To begin, I created a paper template of the area to be walled.
 

 
 
Planking was glued directly to the paper template.
 

 

 
 
Styrene channel was glued on at each post base location. The proper depth channel needed for this is not manufactured, but I found an “H” column that was close enough once modified.
 

 

 
 
The back wall pieces were then glued on.  A corner torn from a Post-it note makes a hands-free right-angle square.
 

 
 
At this point, I became aware of two errors that needed to be addressed.  First, the height of the perimeter partition walls, and the bulkhead end walls were too short.  This would allow a view through an open hatch to see above the walls.  It would be an extreme angle view to be certain, but a deck mock-up proved to me it was possible.  The second error is that the forward bulkhead end wall was placed 12 scale inches forward of where it should be. That's a problem because it interferes with the proper placement of the mast, which is unacceptable.  So, a second end wall was installed 12” aft of the first one.
 
In the image below the new (taller) end wall is on the right.  One would now expect that the two forward bunkers are 12” narrower than the other bunkers, but they are not.  The post spacing is correct from the aft bulkhead forward and only the forward wall was misplaced.  Indeed, I caught this error because the forward bunkers appeared to me a tad wider than the others.
 
Extra work caused by working carelessly.
 

 
 
Next, the four-sided posts for the bunker partitioning were made.  They are a five-piece styrene construction.
 

 
 
 
A construction jig is assembled. The styrene is modified “H” columns and strips from Evergreen.  Solvent cement keeps the posts from being inadvertently glued to the jig.
 

 
 
A channel is placed into the jig.
 

 
 
A flat strip is cemented on top of that. Two of these channel/flat piece assemblies are made for each post.
 

 
 
The center rectangular strip is added to one of the above assemblies.
 

 
 
Then both assemblies are cemented together.
 

 

 
 
The posts are glued onto the post bases.
 

 
 
One of the back walls is heightened, a channel extension is glued on, and a partition is installed.
 

 
 
The partitions are cut from blanks of edge-glued wood strips. A paper template of the partition is placed on the blank and the shape is cut free. They are stained with chalk and alcohol. I use alcohol to liquefy and apply the chalk because it penetrates the wood and evaporates off quickly leaving no time for the thin wood strips to warp.
 

 
 
I used “super thin” CA to glue these partitions in.  With the partition already in place, a drop of the CA at the top of the post races down the channel and glues most of the plank ends.  I have an extension tip on my bottle to help control the flow and I use the watery glue infrequently and cautiously.  I feel there should be a “skull and crossbones” on the bottle.  If you must use it, keep a can of fresh acetone at the ready.  A mishap will glue your fingers together instantly with the possibility of a trip to urgent care.  Am I exaggerating?  Not really.
 

 
 
The partitions are all in.  I'm considering partially filling a few of the bunkers with ice.  What do you folks think and what would make a convincing 1:48 ice?  It would have to be a non-soluble material.
 

 

 
 
I've installed 8 surface mount LEDs (one over each bunker) to light up the hold.  That seems like a lot, but they are small and their output will be adjustable.  Two wood strips holding four diodes each are assembled.  These LEDs are SMD 805 warm white and are attached to the strips with a clear (when dry) version of Gallery Glass.  For scale, the grid on the mat 1/2” (12.7mm)
 

 
 
Both strips attached over the bunkers.
 

 
 
Thanks for stopping by.
 
Be safe and stay well,
 
Gary
 
 

Thank you, will try it, forgot about chisel...