druxey

But Remco did so well on the last challenge, Mark! I couldn't resist….

There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!

There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!

But Remco did so well on the last challenge, Mark! I couldn't resist….

Uh-oh... Druxey tossed another hand grena....  err.. challenge.  Yeah... a challenge. 
 
I like that jig for cutting the mortises.  Simple but effective. Though I can imagine it was a bear to set up and get right.

There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!

There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!

There probably were racks: air circulation was important to prevent mould or rot. At very least, there would be battens on the deck. If you are showing stored sails, don't forget their wooden identification tags!

Thanks for the very kind comments.
 
I started working on the sail room, a lot of preparation went into making a jig to cut the mortises for the loovers. After that was set up it was pretty straightforward (I thought, but making the different stanchions with the mortices on the right sides took more than one try....)
 

 

 
The sail room will be made off the model, it's a big 3D jigsaw and I foresee trouble ahead to get the last side in place. But we'll see.
 

 
I also got some fabric to make a couple of sails. I'm wondering if their shouldn't be racks of some sort to store the sails. 
 

 
Remco

Be careful of plan distortion as you go! (This subject has been the topic of many other threads on this site.)

Thanks for the comments on the jigs Remco, Mark, dragzz, Doris, John and Pat. I'd toyed with the idea of using the Mill, but after cutting the first swivel mount in a couple of minutes I figured the jig would work quicker .
 
I've now temporarily glued all the Port side mounts in place and sanded the Sheer into them. Now I'll fit the Starboard ones and sand them horizontally athwartships.
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Tarbrush, Bob and Nenad M. I am learning more and more about carracks. For instance, this carrack forecastle from late 15th century shows how the carpenters built the framework for their awning assymetric to allow for the foremast. This may explain the somewhat bizarre appearance of this framework on the Trombetta drawings. The position of the foremast also forced the positioning of the bowsprit to one side or other of the mast. These were no nonsense working ships and often aesthetics took second place to practicalities. also, as this illustration from the battle of Zonchio shows, round ships were often co-opted as warships in mediaeval times as their high riding hulls gave them a height advantage over galleys. Cheers, Dick

I have finished all the bulkheads and have almost finished fairing them. I am more happy that the shape of the stern matches the original drawing and other illustrations of the period



Dick

Getting there Allan, just have to finish these platforms ....
And Druxey, I suspect the blood is a sign - a message to suggest it is time to wrap it up for the night.
 
This update is just a note to show that I'm still at work, even if the progress doesn't show. I had been working on the aft magazine and got to the point of working on the light room. As there will be more light rooms in the forward magazine, I decided to see if I could mass produce these. To do this, I ripped a length of wood (Matai), then using the tilted blade on the table saw, cut the angles profile of the light box.

Then I milled out the enclosure to make a rough box ....

(this was a test piece that was discarded)
Which I then carved to form my interpretation of the light box ....

....Which was then discarded as the door was
Too high
Too wide
The cross boards were round the wrong way.
But the photo was quite good so I kept that
I then added the window frames to the box (but haven't done any glass for it), and it now resides in the magazine.

 
I had also added the "spiral staircase" access ladder as well

 
By this stage, I had spent considerable time working on this tiny room that in all likelyhood will never be seen ..... when the Vacuum God visited and sucked up my newly built light room access ladder
 
I took this as a sign that I should take a break from the Aft Magazine, and move on to the middle platform and lower well. So I left the aft platform in this state ....


 
And moved on. The deck beams were easy enough to do. I chose not to do any round up on them, milled the rabbet for the deck planks and chiseled the mortices for the carlings. Having checked their heights when sitting in the notches chiseled in the orlop deck clamps, I then started on the lower well. At this point I found I had a problem. The main mast step sits too far back if I allow room for the elm tree pumps (frame 7 aft), so has to be moved forward over the recesses.

 
I am unsure what I might have done wrong here, but to be honest I am comfortable with the way everything is sitting. I wonder if the elm tree pump recess should have been in frame 7 fwd and not 7 aft, or perhaps 8 aft, aft of the step and fwd of the chain pump recess? In this shot, the aft of the step is sitting on 8 fwd and extends over 7 aft, covering the recess.

This is the well in place, the main mast step has had the bolts and wedges fore and aft added, and I have put two blocks with dowel in place for positioning the chain pump shafts later.
 
Regardless of the above issue, I am more than happy with how the middle platform is turning out so far.

 
I am adding limber boards under the platforms as I go, mainly to try and stop all the scraps falling into the channels. When I get to the forward platform, I will be returning to the aft as well to add the racks and other furniture.
 
Cheers
Rob

I am so sorry to hear of your, and your family's, tragic loss, Alan. May building this model be a healing process for you and a good memorial.

I see what the question was - but it's already been answered! On another note, the moulded (in and out) dimension of your floor timbers look a bit thick. You might want to check that.

I imagine the boatswain would arrange to have the cargo stacked in the most economic way of using the spaces available: kind of Tetris like!

Well Walter just took delivery of 800feet of 1/2 inch line and some 1 inch cable plus some other line for the rigging and docking he seems rather pleased now that the delivery has finally arrived, he can get on with the boom now.  The 5/8 line will be delivered tomorrow he was assured.
 

 

 
Michael

I was wrong.... about tomorrow for pictures.  Keel #3 went well......  boxwood for the keel and ebony for the false keel.  I'll need to touch the keel notches lightly with a file later when I'm ready to mount it to the frames.  If you're so inclined, clicking on the pics will enlarge them.
 

 
 

I completed the finicky tweaking of all points on all section lines.
Had to make compromises, blending well and looking aesthetically pleasing won out over clashing dimensions.
 
This is the last batch of section line development sketches.
I am going to model section -0- frame because I need to do something different before I go back to more sketches... I am certain many following may be getting as bored as I am at the moment (plus my head hurts!).  
 
I think the momentary change will recharge my batteries!         
 
Alan

It has been a few weeks since the last update.  Not that much has been accomplished because of that four letter word...work.  I have all of the carlings temporarily installed, as well as the ledges between the carlings.  I am still adjusting the height of the last two deck beams.  The transom knee was made overly thick and now the top of the beams is lower than the top of the knee.  The knee will be sanded down once I am happy with the fair run of the deck. Beam set 16 is completed.  Only six more beams to go!  The bracing across the outer counter timbers has been removed for the pictures.  I decided not to build any more structures that stand proud of the deck until the deck is completed and sanded fair.  The main mast partner kept getting bumped when I was truing the middle part of the deck.  This should make sanding easier.
 

 

 

 

Finally got a chance to get out the camera and get some photos for an update.
 
I've made a chunk of progress, and after being static for so long it really feels good to be moving forward again.
 
I work on different aspects of the ship depending on location and how much noise I can make after the kids are asleep.
 
Hull:
 
Starboard side finished planking.  I marked out for trenails, but on rereading McKay I've tossed the idea of trenailing the whole hull, since the historical records show she had painted sides.  Since you can't see real trenails under paint, I've decided against that headache (hence the filler on much of the rest of the hull).   There is one plank sitting low, and for the moment it is filled.  If I'm unhappy after sanding I can still replace that one.  I've reworked the gunports and am much happier with the line they take.
 
Sanding awaits nicer weather.
 
Gunport lids are shaped and just dry fitted in place at the moment.  Sheaves done, and are temporarily in place until the inboard works are complete.
 


 
I got out my holly and have gotten on with the job of planking the gundeck.  Looking at top and but planking and a curved layout had put me off doing it for a while, but it's turning out to be an ok job.  Mckay shows straight planking, so I've had to redraw myself.  It's probably wrong in how butts lay in respect to hatches, but my head was hurting even trying to figure this out, so I'm just happy that it's probably a slightly more historically accurate rendition.
 
Caulking is paper.  I like the effect but may go with a grey for the upper deck.
 



 
My late night quiet task has been to shape more masts.
 
Jib - fairly straightforward.

 
Main topmast - still WIP, awaiting sheaves, ironwork blocks etc, but the basic shape is there.  What was nice was to take the topmast and be able to run it up through the lower trestletrees and mast cap the way it was supposed to work.
 

 
Colin

How do the two machines on this page work without using idler gears? The output looks pretty good and he's certainly made a lot of cordage with them.
 
http://ropeandcanvas.blogspot.co.uk/p/tools.html
 

Q I like the simplicity of the gearing in the ropewalk that you illustrated, it is the way that my long horizontal walk operates. I will use it to lay up larger cables.
 
The machine has been undergoing a major rework based on my discussion with Alexey. I also watched the video that he posted on U-tube.
 
first I removed the broken tap.
 

 
Next I pushed out the soldered bushings.
 
 
 

 
Next I bored out the 3/8 holes to 1/2 inch on the new  pitch circle, and inserted new bushings  re-drilled for 10x32 holes and tapped them for the idler gears, and reassembled the lot. Because of the way that the thread spools are mounted the gears had to be mounted on the back side which looks better as well.
 

 

 
Then made the take up spool motor mount from the rest of the small block of ebony that the other mounts were made from.
 

 

 
Next the take up spools, and the guide plate which will be from some clear plex and will be circular.
 
Michael

I have started the base which is actually going to be a small box with a drawer at the spool end. the box is 7 3/8 inches wide by 3 1/4 inches high and 16 inches long. the wood is Brazilian Rosewood I had been saving for a special project and this seemed like a good one to use it on.  I glued up the top so that the figure converged at the spool in allusion to the threads coming together to form rope.
 
The closed end is dovetailed
 

 

 

 
I have now sorted the spool holder and some spools the spool is locked onto the drive with a simple pin which locates into a hole on the spool. the brass ball is salvaged from an old pinball machine I worked on years ago, mounted it onto a new shaft.
 

 

 

 
The drawer will hold threads and bobbins and tools for threading and adjustments.
 
There will be two speed control pots located at the front of the machine end.
 
Michael