druxey

The secret to mixing acrylic is the consistency of skim milk
David B

Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.

Thanks, druxey and Gary,  This construction is all the more amazing when you see how big these pieces are in relation to my captain.
 
For those looking very closely, you will see that the center timber is temporarily coming down onto the top of the sternpost. It will be cut away for the rudder hole, but I wanted to anchor its lower end while shaping everything.
 
Mark

Building log part 3
 
 

brought on White primer coating and Sub waterline red
 

the last Picture where the hull is still fixed to the baseplate. The upper hull portions shall be plated and painted when the decks have been permanently mounted
 

hull seperated from baseplate, all went well, no Twist, no destortions
 

extreme lightweight hull, prop- and ruddershaft already mounted, superstructure for deck Support can be seen
 

riged structure in forecastle area
 
 

decks made from 1,5 mm thick 4-layer Aeroplywood
 

the Forward maindeck, 3 hatches, and the quite Long poopdeck, 2 hatches,(working decks) are going to be metal plated. These decks were of steel plating due to rough cargo handlingand overcoming heavy seas. The cardboard template behind hatch #4 Shows the riviting pattern for deck plating
 

hatch # 1 behind the forecastle bulkhead
 

bow section before finalizing the decks and the final plating
 
 

raw workdecks mounted, midship deckhouses started, hull painting done and forecastle bulleyes mounted. It`s now slowly looking like a ship should be...
 
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow.....

Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.

Whether your mind is clear or not, all those different measuring systems are confusing! Rather than thinking in mm, inches, fractions or whatever, I always think in 'full size'. So, rather than think "This piece needs to be 4mm thick" I think "On the actual ship it is 9" (or whatever) thick." Then I use a scale rule with the appropriate feet and inches to the scale I'm using to measure what I want. Saves a lot of headaches! For really small sizes that I need a caliper or micrometer to measure, i have made myself a conversion table to convert the result into 'full size' inches.

Hi everyone,
 
I have started construction on the stern. The first images show constructing the transom at the quarterdeck into which the vertical timbers will dovetail. When I taped it in place in the third image, I realized that there were too many parts in motion, and I would need a jig to keep it all aligned.
 
So the next images show a jig at the location of the stern lights. The most important thing to keep straight in this construction is the equal spacing of the stern lights.  The jig represents the windows themselves, with the correct round up and round aft, and the locations of the vertical timbers. I then cut slots for the timbers into which I could locate them while shaping them. I did not have to work very hard to create the right bevel; I just filed the aft faces flush to the jig.
 
You will also see that I initially mounted the jig on a right angle fixture over a slab of granite. This allowed me to use a flat, parallel surface from which I could construct the radiating lines for the vertical timbers with a drafting triangle. Once I found the correct angle on one side, I could flip the triangle and draw exactly the same angle on the opposite side. That kept everything perfectly symmetrical from the center. I initially tried to do this while the jig was located on this ship itself, and there were too many things in the way.
 
Still lots to do...
 
Mark
 

Hi everyone
 
It's been a while since I last posted some progress photos, but, here are some of the latest photos of the rigging. I try to take better photos later, but, at least they give you an idea of where things are at.
 
Hope you all enjoy them, but there's still more work to go.
 
Cheers!

Thanks Mark. It does make one stop and think till you been on a air craft carrier which had a crew of 7000. Try feeding that many guys. That is untill you find out that they had three kitchens that usually work 24/7. Had to work in one for two weeks when I was on board the Midway. Lots of fun for sure.
 
Hi Larry.Thank you sir and am glad that my log is a help to you.  I was going to ask Larry but have you started a build log and would love to see your Alfred on here. Now if I understand your question your asking about the grating/deck planking on the orlop deck around the pump well? As far as grating on this deck am not sure that other then in the middle were hatches would of been may of been the only place for grating, which probably been flushed with the planking. Most of the plank's would of been short and fitted in to rabbets on the forward and aft edges of the top of the beams, which could be removed in order to get at the supplies in the hold. If I was going to plank it I would have just cut short planks to fit  between the beams. They did also fit carlings and ledges between the orlop beams to help strengthen the short planks between the beams but I didn't install them also. You may of miss this detail on the orlop deck so have included a photo showing the rabbet. Peter Goodwin in his book Sailing Man of War, show's on page 59 fig 2/8 how the planks would of looked accept I do believe they would have been flush with the beams. Keeps one from stubbing a toe that's for sure. Hope this is of some help Larry. If it doesn't answer you question let me know and we will come up with the right answer.
Gary 

Build log part 2
 
 

planking completed, rudder and sternpost reinforcement mounted, minimized Polyesterfiller where necassary, and poopquarter knee-whale attached
 
 

impressions of rudder making components
 

the five blade prop is only an interim solution, a four blade historic prop with blades bolted-on the central hub is to follow later
 

here first time experience Begins with metal plating for hull
The hull wooden surface is sanded smooth and fixed with quick dying transperant liquid filler, which drys off quickly leaving a real smooth and shiny surface on which the self-adhesive Aluminium foil sticks like hell. No Problem with roll-embossing the foil plates from the rear plate side, because the rivit immitations are roolled-in before the protection foil on the plate rearside is removed, giving free the glue film.
 

Workstation for making the plates
 

leave a gap between first and second plating line, the third plating line is set by overlapping the edges of first and second line
Note : vertical rivit Joints have 4 rows of rivits, horizontal Joints have 2 rivit rows
 

plating nearly done, the whole hull is still mounted to the shipyard baseplate
Mounted into the keel are two reinforced M5 female threads for the later to be mounted stand-bolts
 

the upper hull portions have not been plated yet
 

soldered, full functional mounted rudder before plating, shaft going through to poop deck
 

here the upside down 135 cm Long hull is nearly ready for seperating from the baseplate, it is very stiff, riged and of lightweight

The Aztec is much easier to clean and you don't have to worry about needle care as much. The Aztec has small screw-in 'nose' units with the needle fully protected. Having also used Iwata, Badger, DeVilbiss and other conventional design airbrushes, I much prefer the Aztec.

This is a lovely looking model of an unusual subject, Nils. Thank you for bringing this to our attention as well as the sad story behind the loss of both ship and your grandfather.

I have the Aztes too and as airbrushes go its the best I've used. My Aztec is the metal bodied one with interchangeable needle assemblies for different paints. An assembly for acrylics is important here as acrylics act differently than solvent paints. Unless you open a T-shirt shop you'll hardly ever use your brush more than just a few minutes. BILL

Steamship Heinrich Kayser
 
Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann
 
The steamship Heinrich Kayser was launched in 1898 baptized to its birthname „Elbing“ and was one of the typical new fast merchant vessels built for the D.A.D.G. (Deutsch Australische Dampfschiffahrts Gesellschaft) shipping company at the FSG shipyard in Flensburg, northern Germany. It served the trade route Europe via Cape of Good Hope or via Suez Canal and the red sea and across the Indian Ocean to several Australian Ports together with her sister ships on regulary basis for many years.
After WW1 and in compliance with the Treaty of Versailles demands the Elbing went under command and management of a british shipping controller, from which the “Elbing” was bought back again by the Hamburg based Kayser & Sohn shipping Company in 1921, which renamed the vessel to “Heinrich Kayser”. In 1922 my grandfather was appointed as the master in command on its last fatal voyage from England to the US eastcoast, down to Florida and back touching Norfolk Virginia as last port and thereafter went down with all aboard her in a heavy full gale and with broken rudderchain and broken hatchcovers. The last SOS radio signals came from position of the New England Seamount Chain, some 500 miles off the US eastcoast where the Atlantic is 5000m deep. No survivers, not a trace was ever found. This type of ship was a mere cargo steamer of 5600 tons, which may have been able to accommodate 2-3 passengers, midships. The Heinrich Kayser was capable of cruising at max. of 12 knots with her twin-boiler arrangement in tandem setup, and having appr. 20 firemen (stokers and heaters), working in shifts to keep the boilers at pressure accordingly.
I built this model, which is already completed to date, after a shipyard overview plan in honor to my grandfather and all its 43 souls crew and three passengers.
It is only a couple of weeks ago that per incidence, and 91 years after that foundering, on a raised web forum thread I was able to take up contact with an american lady, who`s great grandmother as well as her great aunt have been on board the Heinrich Kayser at that time and lost their lives as passengers way back in 1922
The build log shall comprise probably 21 individual parts due to limit of pics per post, and shall document all building sequences in pictures. Comments, questions, etc. shall be welcome and answered along with the build log as it grows.
The model took me appr. 1800 manhours to build over 2 years including the search for a plan, new modeling techniques like metal- plating /”riveting”, soldering, glass-case making, all trials, etc.
The fully completed model can be viewed in my album (steamship Heinrich Kayser) under topic : Gallery of completed scratch built models
Have fun and enjoy whilst studying this oldtimer steamer of 1898 in its buildup
 
Nils
 
Here it Begins.....
 
Build log part1
 

this is one of the ship under its birthname "Elbing"
 

this is one of the very last Pictures of the Heinrich Kayser
 

overview plan frontsection
 

overview plan aftsection
 

stringers and single-layer planking in pine
 

 

 

planking under way, propshaft built in
 

Frame plan, self drawn, not included in overview plan
 

planking nearly completed
 
 
 
Part 2 to follow....

A little update for this Friday, I did retouch horizontal curving alignment of the tiles for the windows, I still will have to do some realignment. Now working on port and taking pictures give no mercy. On the second picture I draw a red line to show that some realignment will be needed.  Nothing is glued yet, so that realignment can be done when necessary. It is easier to see on a picture of the model than on the model itself.

You can manage soup, Gary? That's good enough to be a ship's cook. You're pressed!

By the late 1790's decoration was heavily restricted. The full length figure was ditched for a bust or half-length. You'd be safe to go with that.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 40 – Aft Half Frames 1
 
As in the forward section, the aft half frames lie between the cant frames and the aftermost of the full square frames.  They bolt to the vertical side of the deadwood and are square to the line of the keel.  When installed they will be hard to distinguish from the full frames that rest on the keel.  However when the horizontal bolts are installed the difference will be more obvious.
 
I installed the first of these following the method used on the forward frames.  As shown in the first picture these, although separate, were fabricated as a single assembly held together with temporary cross-spalls.  This assembly would then be slipped over the deadwood at the correct height.  The breadth at the top is held by the spalls and alignment set using the center string line.
 

 
The next picture shows the erection method.
 

 
The sides are contained by the two clamped squares located at the line on the base drawing.  The center of the spall is marked and aligned with the string.  The height on both sides is set using the vertical caliper based on heights taken from the drawing.  This worked well except that gluing and accurately clamping at the deadwood was a bit involved.  I soon adopted the simpler method shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method the two frame halves are installed separately.  The ribbands at the planksheer were extended back into the cant frames.  These ribbands are then used to set the height and breadth of the frames at the top, where they are pinned tightly through the ribband as was done for the full frames.  This method roughly mimics actual shipyard practice.
 

 
This turned out to be a very much simpler method with equal accuracy.  In the next picture a half frame has been lightly clamped at the bottom and the frame is held so the top of the aft top member is at the top of the ribband. The ribband has been marked with the joint line of the frame for fore and aft alignment.  A pin hole is being drilled through in the picture.
 

 
Once pinned at the top it is an easy matter to rotate the frame to apply glue to the face, then position and clamp it in place by one of the methods shown above.  This process is almost too simple.  However, it does depend on an accurate ribband line.
 
To help assure this, a spreader was inserted and pinned at frame 33, about midway in the remaining open space.  Sized from the pattern for 33, this helps maintain the correct curve of the ribband breadth.  This spreader and two measured strips are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The strips are loose and were merely used to check the breadth at the last full frame and the last installed half frame.
 
The last picture shows the hull at present.  The remaining gap in the framing should soon be filled.
 

 
Apart from the clutter of my workshop in the background, this picture gives an idea of the length of this hull – and of the L/B ratio.  This is one long slim ship -  roughly 240 feet long by about 43 feet broad – about 6/1.  Naiad:  3.7/1.
 
 
 Ed

covered with oil:


 
after drying oil tinting:




 
Everything. And so it did:


 
Sincerely, Alexander
 
 
 
 
 
 

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

A great little video Doris I have the very deepest respect and admiration for modelers like yourself that achieve results like yours with the most basic of toolkits
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris

but a very pretty little girl.
aber ein sehr hübsches kleines Mädchen.  
Regards Karl

Hello, some pictures.

No guys I didn't make the Drill. They custom made a small batch of these where I used to work for PCB drilling and kindly gave me one when I left. Couple more pictures to whet your appetite!
 

 

 
Sorry, we really have wandered off topic now!