BLACK VIKING

This is my forever project I will post the build sequence up to now. I’ve started the build in 2016. I had to install all radio gear and batteries as far back as possible due to the weight of the scale O.S. 300L engine which weighs almost 6 pounds in order to get the center of gravity right without adding several pounds of unneeded weight to the wing loading."..

You're welcome, Yves.
 
Some more progress:
 
7. The rail
The boat has a low rail, supported by  21 stanchions which are not part of the frames. To be able to place the bottom side of all stanchions on a smooth line, I fasten a lath to mark the level.

The bottom side of the stanchion is sawn at 45°.

I insert some wood glue in the stanchion hole ...

... and push the stanchion into place.

Checking if the stanchion is standing vertical.

The stanchions are glued against the inside of the wale. Below deck they are held into place by small temporally wedges between the beam clamp and the stanchion.

All 21 stanchion into place. They are a little bit longer than needed. The excesses will be sawn when the rail plank is placed.

Wedges and level lath removed.

 

Gluing the rail plank. In between the rail and the waterway I put small wooden spacers to form the scuppers.

 

Cutting off the excesses of the stanchions.

 

Making the gunwale: I trace the outer shape of the wale on the bottom of the plank from which I will saw the gunwale.

Sawing the outer bow of the gunwale.

The outer shape is sawn an sanded. Fitting it.

Now the inner edge is sawn and sanded also.

The whole gunwale consists of three parts.

The three parts have to be joined together to become one gunwale. Drawing the forward joint.

I use the vise also here to saw the joints.

Tracing over the shape of the joint on the neighbor piece of gunwale.

 

The joint.

Gluing the whole gunwale.

Sanding the gunwale even with the wale.

I glue a thin frame on the outside of the gunwale.

And also one on the inside. When the glue is dry the edges of the lists are rounded off with sand paper. At the positions of the stanchions the gunwale is tree nailed with the stanchion.

 

 
Thank you for reading
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the likes
and thank you for your constructive comments,
 
Till next week

Well, as i said earlier, I think I have made a little progress since I last posted an update. Not finished like Mark but certainly further along than I was. 
 
In my last update I was still having formal combat with the pilot seats and assorted small and ill fitting/designed photo etch parts. I finally pretty much got all that worked out and ended up with seats that seem to cover the look properly. At least for how I will display this model. I then had to build and install the center jump seat that had to be set up to allow proper seating of the pilots. So I had to make a side trip and set up the pilots in their seats. This of course made me have to cut and file pilot butts to fit in said seats. They probably would have fit in the stock kit seats but of course I had to use the after market seats with the kit floor in my build. So far the pilot has gone through a buttectomy and is sitting pretty much where he should. I may have to so some more for a more custom fit. At some point I was careless and broke off his helmet mike and will have to replace it at some point. Hopefully I don't do the same with the co-pilot when he gets his buttectomy. At any rate it was becoming clear that possibly I have been wasting my time these last couple of weeks making the seats from all those tiny PE parts and re-learning all those cuss words from my shaded past. Everything is becoming so crowded that you can't see much of it at all!  By the time I add the cabin overhead and roof none of it will be visible at all!
Everything you see in the pictures is just sitting there, not glued into the cockpit. The only thing actually "In place" is the middle jump seat. I had to drill new locating holes in the deck to obtain the proper location. Then I got it wrong as there was not enough room for the pilots and seats forward and I had to re-drill holes about one and a half mm further aft. I rechecked the fit and clearances and took the following pictures:
 
This was the first location. It cramped the cockpit too much so I knew I would have to move it. The holes in the deck are the kit holes that would have been used if I had used the kit seats, which by the way are total garbage in every way.

The next view is from the front, showing how little can be seen even before the pilots are seated.
 
After you seat the pilots virtually everything I have done over the last couple of weeks has disappeared!  the co-pilot on the right still needs to be altered to get him to fit the seat properly.

So all in all I am happy to have made some progress at last and that even though the deck is beginning to look a little like Swiss Cheese from all the unused kit holes, and mis-drilled location holes I am also happy with the results. The holes can and will be filled in and the "Look" looks like I remember it. There are of course a few exceptions but they are small and I can live with them I think. I am also getting a bettter idea of what will be possible to see and what won't and will probably stress out a little less about those kinds of things in the future. At least I will try.
 
Next is the altering, locating, and assembly of the remaining jump seats and their painting, along with filling and repainting the poor abused deck.
 
Thanks everyone for looking in and helping.
 
 

Hi all,
 
My latest magazine work is complete. This is the Wingnut Wings kit, with plywood decals, wooden prop, resin wheels, metal exhaust by Proper Plane. Also wood nail decals and resin set/seatbelts from HGW, as well as metal turnbuckles from GasPatch. This one will be published in Military Illustrated Modeller, and also Japan's World Scale Modeller title. So pleased my time in plastic is coming to an end so I can get back to ships. Just waiting on Amati to send the Victory prototype parts over.
 

Got the wing roots masked, then the tops of the wings got painted. Photos shown are with masks attached, then masks removed.
 

Thanks for the great pictures of the ships boat Michael I'm very jealous of your trip. I can see a little protect forming  
thanks agane m8 
Martyn

Hi Martin and thanks for the great comments. The Deag Vasa is probably the most accurate one out there as Fred Hocker from the Vasa museum had a lot of input into the kit . There are still a few bits that need changing like the hallards as the rigging has been simplified probably for first time builders. Also there is a missing gunport on the quarter deck and a missing post ports but these are very easy to fix . The carvings are really good and there are a lot of them. I thoroughly enjoyed building this model and I really recommend it.
Martyn

My progress has been pretty slow overall on this restoration, but there has been some recent progress on the rigging.  Not perfect by any means, but blends well with the original build quality.  

Thanks for the great pictures of the ships boat Michael I'm very jealous of your trip. I can see a little protect forming  
thanks agane m8 
Martyn

Look what arrived this morning  -
 
OC.

And...... she's done and on the shelf.  Pics below. My only comment is that there really should be a better way to glass than thick plastic.  <sigh>
 
And one last tale from Vietnam.   We had made a delivery of assorted goods (c-rats, ammo) to platoon in the field.   On the way back to base, we're lumbering along at about 500 feet and maybe 100 knots speed.   Kind of relaxing.   The left door gunner, who was the 1st mech for chopper (I was at the right) suddenly yells.. "taking fire request permission to returnn....".   That's all he got out when the pilot broke in with "Hell yes." and started banking to the left to help the gunner out.   As we started the bank and he started working the .50, I moved over to his side and started reading a second box of ammo.   I looked out and he's shooting at a water buffalo that surrounded by 6 guys in black PJ's shooting at us.   He nailed 4 right off the bat, we're loosing altitude (intentionally) when the water buffalo explodes.   I looked at him, he at me, and we both just went "Wow".   While this was going on,  Huey Cobra showed up just after the explosion and he dropped down low and slow and then reported back that there's 6 bodies and one crater.   Hey... we felt good.  Better them than us.   We landed, checked the plane and wandered off.   The next morning, I bumped into the Colonel (our pilot) and he told me to go look at the side of the chopper.   On the 1st mechs side, under the window where the gun was, there was painted a "kill" like the WWII fighters.... but this was a water buffalo with an "X" through it.   Loved it and wish I knew were my albums were as I know I had a picture of it.
 
So much for wandering down memory lane for now.  It's been both fun and hard, but worth the trip to me.   I'm now going to go focus on the Bellle Poule.  And thanks to everyone who put up me remembering like some old guy... wait... I am an old guy.

I've finished the "tail" stringer.
 
  

And started on the oarbenches on the port side (note the cunning weight I'm using to hold them down).
 
Just a little outline of how I make the shields from facial tissue.
 
I first smear the inside of the mould with something greasy (I've been using butter - it's cheap and easily available) so the paper doesn't get stuck  to the mould.
 
I use a square piece cut from the tissue a little larger than the shield so it overlaps the mould, then put in a blob of PVA glue, then another square of tissue, another blob of PVA, until there are four layers in there (note each tissue is usually "4-ply" i.e. 4 layers of very thin paper, so I end up with probably 16 layers in all). One final blob of PVA, then I push it all down with a fingertip and smooth it around the inside of the mould. The more glue I have on my finger the less likely the paper is to follow my fingertip when I remove it.
 
 
Leave it for several hours till the glue is almost set, the push down again with a fingertip, pushing the paper/glue matrix into all the corners of the mould so it takes up as much detail as possible. 
 
Leave to dry and then lift it carefully from the mould, then cut around the outside to get rid of the excess. Smear another blob of PVA onto the face of the completed shield - I find this improves the surface and gets rid of some of the smaller faults. Sand smooth with fine paper. 
   
Repeat 49 times.
 
I use matt enamel paint (Revell or Humbrol) - I find it gives better results than acrylic - and a very fine watercolour brush.
 
Steven 
 
  

Wow stunning job and the lantern looks superb, well done m8 
Martyn

1:50 Brig Aris – Historical Ships range
Navarino Models
Catalogue # C502
Available from Navarino Models for €549,00
 

 
The 350-ton Aris was constructed as a merchant vessel in Venice in 1807. Upon the outbreak of the Greek Revolution in March 1821, her owner, Anastasios Tsamados (1774-1825) from Hydra, armed the ship with 16 12-pounder guns and joined the fleet of his home island. Aris participated in many of the early naval clashes with the Ottoman Navy but became famous after the action fought at Navarino on 8 May [O.S. 26 April] 1825, which became known as the "Sortie of Aris" (Έξοδος του Άρεως). At that time, a Greek garrison was quartered at the island at Sphacteria, which controlled the entrance of the excellent natural harbour of the Bay of Pylos (Navarino). Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, tasked by the Ottoman sultan to suppress the Greek revolt, needed to take the island in order to use the bay for his own purposes. Aris, along with 5 other brigs, were anchored at Sphacteria when, on the morning of April 26, the combined Ottoman-Egyptian fleet arrived and started its attack on the island, bombarding the Greek positions and disembarking numerous troops. Most captains of the ships were on land, along with part of their crews, who were manning the island's cannons. The other ships sailed before the Ottoman fleet could seal off the bay, and after fighting off the Ottomans, were able to escape. The crew of Aris however still awaited their captain, who had been killed. Instead, Nikolaos Votsis, the captain of the Athena, which had already sailed without him, and Dimitrios Sachtouris, the commander of the Navarino fortress, came aboard, fleeing the advancing Egyptian soldiers. Votsis took over as captain, with Sachtouris as his first mate, and set sail. Also present on the ship was the Secretary of State, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, who was sent to the hold for safety. Aris sailed through the midst of the Turco-Egyptian fleet, being attacked on all sides for several hours and facing in total 32 ships one after another, before reaching the open sea. Casualties among the crew were just two dead and six wounded.

After the end of the War of Independence, the ship was bought by the Greek government for the new Royal Hellenic Navy and renamed Athena (Αθηνά). It reverted to its old name in 1879, and was in service, mainly as a training vessel for the Hellenic Naval Academy, until 7 April [O.S. 25 March] 1921, when it was ceremonially sunk off Salamis with full honours on the 100th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. The action, justified on the grounds of the expense involved in the ship's maintenance, caused much criticism at the time from those who favoured her retention as a naval monument. Today, only the ship's figurehead is preserved, at the National Historical Museum of Athens.
 
 
The kit
This is our second Navarino Models review, with me taking a look at their Brockley Combe back in 2018. This time, Navarino have done the subject they always wanted to tackle, and that is a ship that was a belligerent at the battle from which the company named itself. And they’ve not done this by half either, with this release being presented in a high-quality birch ply box with a sliding lid that has a little trough for your finger to gip when you open the lid. The lid is also colour-printed with the box art, and each box is engraved with a serial number. Mine is kit #2! Navarino also asked if I’d like my name engraved, and they did this for me too.

Now, this is a HEAVY box, so some care is needed in opening this up to take a look inside. Sliding back that lid uncovers some layers of bubble packing that stop anything rolling around whilst in transit. Hang on a minute...what is this I see? Well, Babis, the owner of Navarino Models obviously spotted my Facebook avatar and knew I was a Bowie fan, so he popped a 7” single in there of Blue Jean! That has surely got to be the most original item I’ve ever received with a kit! The covering letter explains a little too.


Ok, back onto the subject. Underneath the protective layers, we have six sheets of plans, some sheets which form the plan identification, and also a set of English language instructions. Remove this and we see two clear plastic trays of fittings, a bag of rigging material, two bags of plywood components, three sheets of 6mm ply parts, two bundles of strip timber, and two large ply deck sections. Before I jump into the contents, here’s a great little video made by Navarino, highlighting their new kit, with some finished images of this famous brig. 
 
 
Suggested Tools
Navarino supply the following text to recommend tools for the project, but you may of course have your own alternatives:
Pliers, hammer (a small one), saws, chisels, knives, files, drills, electric plank bender or a mini travel iron, rasps (flat & half round), needle threaders, tweezers, rulers, squares, compass, awl, clamps, sanding blocks (small wood blocks, ice cream sticks), sandpaper (aluminium oxide is best), hobby plane, vice, scissors, pins, drills.
 
For painting
Again more suggestions from Navarino Models:
Colour selection: Initially it is advisable to choose to use model paints on this model. They are produced exclusively for modelling use. The choice of the company is yours. You will also choose whether to be acrylics or enamels. Another alternative is oil painting, but these require more time to dry.
Varnishes: These can be applied by brush or spray. Matt or satin or satin are preferable for use, but not gloss as this is more likely to be used on a sailing yacht!
Brushes: Use good quality brushes with round, pointed and flat bristles, depending on the surface you are painting. Clean them thoroughly and after a painting session, wash them with a mild detergent to condition them.
 
Main deck sections

Two large, thin ply parts, pre-cut to size with CNC, are supplied for the main deck sections. Minimal clean-up is required around the mast positions, to remove a little furriness from the machining process. These deck sections give a pretty good idea about the size of this brig in 1:50, and just how fat she was in the beam. At 1143mm in length, this is definitely a large model when complete.
 
False keel, bulkheads, cheeks etc.

Three sheets of high quality 6mm birch ply are included which contain Aris’ main hull construction elements. As with all cutting on this kit, the parts are machined using CNC, and some very minor clean-up of some edges will need to be done with tickling the edges with a sheet of abrasive paper. All machining is excellent, with small tabs (not full sheet depth) that you will cut through to release the parts. Due to the length of the hull, the false keel is provided in two sections. Two stiffening parts are included to encapsulate the joint area and provide extra strength. There is no engraving of part numbers on the sheets, so you will need to refer to the parts maps that is included with the kit’s paperwork. All ply sheets are nice and flat with no visible warpage. 




 
Strip wood

Two substantial bundles of strip wood are supplied, in 500mm lengths. One bundle contains the lime planking material for the first layer of planking. You are advised to cut these so as to maximise the material usage during planking. All of this is hidden, or course, but you still need a good solid base to work from. A length of brass wire is tucked in there too for later use.



A second bundle of the same length contains both strip, and dowel for the masts, yards and bowsprit etc in ramin, and beech for strip and basswood for dowel. You will also see the material for the second planking, and also for deck planking etc. Some of this timber is dark on the end cut, presumably through the machining process. As before, all timber is excellent quality with no fluffy edges or defects to be seen.
 
More ply parts

A pack of smaller, CNC-cut birch ply parts is included. Here you will find cannon carriage and wheels, channels, etc. Parts are nicely machined, but some clean-up will be required to remove any fluffy edges from the CNC cutting process.




There are also another two packs of thin ply parts. One of these contains the poop and forecastle decks, stern décor trim and parts for the tops. The other pack holds parts exclusively for the three launches, namely the internals, rudders and oars. These are very thin ply and the internals in my kit had broken in almost the same place on the rear third of the part. These are repairable though. These parts will also need some clean-up before they can be used. I think if the ply grain had run the other way, they would perhaps have not broken. 





 
Components tray #1

Two blown plastic trays of parts are included in this kit. The first one contains a whole range of detail parts in various materials. Here you will find copper chain, deck grating comb set, boxwood ladder sets, 3D-printed Aris figurehead, hull mounting pedestals (no base included), boxwood capstan, rudder pintles, cast ship’s wheel, three launch boats etc. The latter are realistically thin and made from cream coloured resin. These will need a gentle wash in some soapy water to remove any mould release agents that may be lingering on their surfaces (although mine look very clean). There is a casting block on the lower keel, and this will need to be gently sawn away and cleaned up. This is standard practice for resin. As always, wear a mask when sanding resin parts. The 3D-printed figurehead, created by scanning the surviving one from the real ship, has a series of connection points what will need to be trimmed off and cleaned up. Again, this is normal for such parts. 









 
Components tray #2

Another plastic tray chock-full of detail goodies for your model. In here we have numerous packets of rigging blocks and various sized deadeyes with chain plates, launch davits, steel pins for first planking (remember to remove these before sanding!), brass belaying pins (casting point needs removing), turned brass cannon x 16, anchor set with wooden stocks and metal hoops, parral beads, metal cleats, copper eyelets, ships bell etc. Rigging block quality is very good and the drilled holes are nice and clean. 








 
Rigging

A single pack of rigging cord is included, consisting of two natural threads, one bleached, and one black. These look high quality with no fuzziness present on my example. 
 
Flags

Two flags are included, printed on paper. Printing quality is very good. You will need to possibly dampen these when assembled and form them into a natural sag that you would expect to see. 
 
Paperwork


 
Several sheets of A4 paper are included, listing all of the kit parts by name and quantity included. More paper is supplied, forming the kit’s written instruction manual. No photos are given here, but they are unnecessary anyway as all illustration regarding assembly details, are supplied on the plan set. The English is clear and easy to understand.
 
Plans

SIX sheets of plans are included, printed at 1:1 so you can take measurements straight from them. Sheet 1 shows two profiles of the hull in profile form, depicting skeletal structure and illustrations showing the double-plank nature of the hull. Measurements are also supplied for gun port spacings etc. A very clear, easy to understand drawing.

Sheet 2 shows the model in plan elevation with a montage of small illustrations depicting construction and details. Easy part number reference is supplied for various fittings.


Sheet 3 & 4 concern the construction of the masts and bowsprit


Sheet 5 illustrates yard construction and some elements of rigging, whilst the last sheet is purely for rigging.
 
Conclusion
This is an ambitious project for Navarino Models and is the first fighting ship of this period that they now have on their catalogue. For a Greek, and a ship enthusiast, it was a subject that Navarino’s owner, Babis, simply couldn’t ignore, and he’s done a wonderful job of recreating it in 1:50 for us. The whole package is a delight to see, from the quite extravagant but unique packaging, through to the use of the more expensive birch play for parts. Strip wood is also high quality and the fittings are well above average too. The only small niggle for me is perhaps the use of ply on the gun carts and channels, instead of solid wood, and the timber boats parts need some clean up. It’s by no means a deal breaker at all though as this is a well thought out release of a subject that I’ve never seen in kit form before. This is a bonny brig and quite a size when built too. If either historically significant vessels or Mediterranean ships are your thing, then give this kit a look over! Definitely a very different subject to tackle.
 
My sincere thanks to Navarino Models for the kit you see reviewed here for Model Ship World. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article. 
 
 

 
 
 

well..........it's confirmed.........planking is like watching paint dry   I'm probably at the 1/3 point.  do a strake......let it dry.......repeat.   getting an idea of the angle of the bow stem,  the bow end of the planks were cut to the angle,  and then beveled so they would lay flat to the stem.

the first plank laid after the bulwarks were closed up.........

I got to thinking of the masts and the boxes I want to make.   I want to be ready for that step,  so when the masts are installed,  they will have a firm root point.  picking out the size dowels mentioned in the diagrams,  the holes were made large enough to accept them,  and then set in place.
  
this looks to be the rake they are to be at....I have the spirit boom dry fitted too.  I'm going to have to find out how long they are to be......I'm sure it's not this long.  the boxes don't need to be pretty......just functional.

after these are trimmed down and sanded to shape  they will be installed........the main mast box already is.   the fore mast box will need to be located further up the #3 bulkhead,  or it will interfere with the planking.   I did a few strakes on the starboard side too,  but more was added to the port side .

so now it's time to stop for the evening....this is where I am at the moment.
  
the bow is OK so far........no drastic measures need to be taken yet.   but the stern however....I think it's time to taper the planking.

what you can see of the stern looks neat and trim........that's because I've already trimmed it........done some sanding too.   .........just can't handle the idea that the planking is rough.  this is Obechi.....a fairly soft wood,  that likely wouldn't mill smooth in the first place.  it does have it's limitations though....the twist will snap if you try to force it.  usually when I plank,  I will wet it down and plank the hull damp.....it is a bit more elastic.  it can dry on the hull..........actually,  I think it helps the glue seep into the wood's pores,  giving it a better bond.   but here,  I'm using it dry without much trouble.   tomorrow is another day....I had a great day off  
 
as always,  thanks for look'in in and the likes  
                                                                                                                           

Eduard's own Spit kit range is superb, and of course, their PE and resin is designed alongside it and needs (relatively) minimal surgery to add it.
 
As you have now abandoned this one, I'll show you an image of the Eduard Mk.VIIIHF I built with a resin cockpit etc. No engine of course, but I have built one previously, and know they fit superbly.
 

While the fuselage is drying  I checked the instructions  - they call for the main undercarriage units to be made  -  they are made up from  two side units  and a few other smaller  sections  - its a case of gluing  then supporting  while they  glue,   then  when complete again  support and put on one side.
 
OC.

A long journey Michael, but a superb result, your Vasa is wonderful.
 
B.E.

Thanks mates,
 
Here's one last image (promise) that allows for a better perspective view.
 

 
 

That's certainly true Maury. I commissioned a few figures long ago from Dynamic Dioramas in 1:48 scale for my dockyard model. I think they add nicely to the final display. The sawyers are an homage to Harold Hahn's diorama in the Mariners Museum.
 

More work  today   starting by  cleaning up both fuselage sides  - there was quite a bit to trim/sand off,  next  I glued the front engine bay  firewall bulkhead  (I decided to remove the engine mount  from the Merlin  as it was going to foul the fuselage)  I will still fit the engine as it has the exhaust manifolds attached to it.
I  also had some small fitting to add inside the cockpit  - I have to say the quality of the moldings and engraving is very high  and frankly wouldn't really benefit form PE  - this is the status before I add some paint.
 
OC.

Here's the project just laid out to get an idea of the work to follow. I had to do a quick assembly of the cardboard structures (they're just taped, they need to be reinforced from the inside, more framework) to see where they'll be placed.
 
Of course, the cardboard models have already been modified for some and not yet for others. Corrections are necessary. Also missing is the open hall, which will be a wooden frame with a tiled roof. And all kinds of small annex buildings, accessories, etc...
 

 

 

 

well...I'm going to call it finished.  I added the unit markings and a little soot from the engines,  and there ya go.   the unit markings amount to splotches of paint on the ailerons and rudder.......from what I gathered,  the 303rd marked their planes this way,  but the Wulfe Hound was the only one I noticed with these markings.  I'm not totally happy with the pictures.......if anyone feels gypped,  let me know and I'll try to take better ones.  I think the lighting had something to do with it.
 
  
  
  
I got a scare when I sat down to do it...........almost knocked it off the desk!    that would have very bad    I mentioned this....probably at the beginning of the log that there are two accounts of her demise.   one account stated that she became damaged and had to ditch in the Bay of Kalamata,  but the other account is more believable.   a B 17 was seen at Oranienburg airfield towards the end of the war.....the rest of the article is here:
Wulfe Hound
serial numbers on the parts don't lie.  here is another article that might be of interest to you OC:
Wulfe Hund - The B-17 Captured by Luftwaffe
as I was bringing her to the place where she will be displayed...I also realized I forgot the antenna wires.  I'll do them at a later time
  
one of these models in 1:72 is still a decent size model.......even close to a 1:64 scale model.  I'm going to need to juggle them around when the Memphis Belle gets here    so thanks to all of you who came to visit,  I really appreciated the suggestions and kind words....it made the model what it is.

If there were sailors, the warship would be more vivid.   .I'll finish some new sailors by the end of May

As part of my tribute to my late farther  I will  soon add a Hurricane  to my build logs  as he also worked on them,   I remember him telling me the Hurricanes were the work horses and the Spits were the  fast boys toys,
 
I think the Three  would make him proud.
 
OC.