BLACK VIKING

Hello,
after a short pause at the shipyard, we managed to fit in the quarter pieces. It's not all done till now, but we are on the way.

 

Good day all,    right  then  -  I think I have cracked it,  I mixed  a  larger  amoubt of my Lucky  ultra matt  with a  couple  of drops of satin  and  this  is the  result.
 
OC.

Evening all,   just been  playing around  with a  few of  my  existing  photos  and I decided  to  have anther  go  at them  -  I copped the  one  photo  and  the  painting  of the  inside  the  courtyard  of LHS  I  just   brought the  levels  up a  bit  to  make the scene pop  a bit.
 
OC.

Fantastic  to  see   you  back  on this   and  Brill   news  about  the  sucess  with   your  sight,  I do  understand  about  you  changing  what  you  felt   stood out  on your   build,   we   are  our own   punishers  and  critics  with  our own works  -  look at me  with my  re doing  of  the paintwork on my figures.
 
Looking forward  to seeing more  now  you are  back  in the  seat.
 
OC.

Aaaaand - I'm back. The recovery period took longer than planned but now I'm back wearing a contact lens in both eyes and able to see properly again. Its early days but I think I see a little improvement from the surgery already although its supposed to take about six months to get the full benefit.
Anyway I am back with Castillo Loarre and making progress again.
The last area that needs blocks is the octagon tower. A suitably fiddly thing to finish with. Windows and the triangle on the template suggest there is some sort of bastion on the other four faces. The guide is notably sketchy in this area so its been back to the drone video of the real thing. That seems to confirm the bastions although at a much shallower angle than the template suggests. I also started the first rows of roof tiles.


The area at the foot of the tower is also difficult to make out but I installed a row of blocks and will sand then back as a slope


Looking over work from before the surgery I found an annoying fox paw. Note the two windows in the outer wall

And on the inside .... Maybe I really did need the eye surgery!

I deliberated for a couple of days about anyone caring and reluctant to start tearing stuff down at the end of the build. Fear of a visit by the Guardians of Loarre Castle finally won out and down it came.

The shaping of the bastions on the outer side of the tower has been completed. The inner ones need to be sanded to shape.

This whole area is only vaguely referred to in the guide. Back to the video to try to assess how to finish the area around the half dome. The model departs from reality here and seems to have blocks covering the floor and overhanging the outer walls. That will wipe out half the height of the dome. The real thing has a parapet part way round the wall so I'm going to try that and use the tile pieces to cover the floor

So I have started the parapet. The tiles are going to be a nuisance


So this is where I am now. I ran out of blocks although if there had been less damaged blocks I would have made it. Just tile pieces to use now.
I'm looking forward a bit, it occurs to me that I need to completely finish this element of the castle before adding it to the base. I need to add the ground material and that also means adding the figures because I need to cover their bases with the ground stuff. So after some serious sanding and filling there is going to be a switch to the paint bench
The ground looks like it is gravel in the videos. I need to think what to use for that. The kit provides a very small amount of white granules that is not going to cover the area in question. I need to start researching railway scenery elements I think
Its great to be back. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading all the spectacular work being done on this forum while I have been recovering.
Thanks for looking in
Alan.
 
 
 

Next update. What i wish they had done would be to mold the channels as separate pieces, for ease of painting. I have never had a model with channels molded onto the hull. It would probably be fine if it were anything other than an English galleon, due to the painting. 

All things considered, i think it's pretty good. The port side should go faster, because now i know what i want everything to look like. That should streamline the process some. I will do the interiors and weathering for both at the same time to preserve uniformity. 

Treenails... 
There have been many discussions here on the forum; Treenails, yes or no. 
For me: yes. It's a lot of work, but for me it adds value.
The idea is to add the treenails and then paint the hull with diluted Tamiya paints. This worked last time with toothpicks and ramin wood, but the cherry wood does not provide enough contrast. That is why I purchased walnut strips with a diameter of 1 mm, these provide sufficient contrast with the cherry wood to be able to paint over later.
 
There is not much information for the Mary Rose, only the diameter of the treenails. The frames also do not have an ordered structure to create a treenail diagram.
Therefore, back to the method on my previous model. This creates a schedule that has some structure. This will not match the real ship at all. but it looks good (to me).
 
The Mary Rose info, 
Further in the book it says :  We will investigate this further later...
My treenails are indeed 0.2mm too thick. But I couldn't find smaller strips in walnut and 1 mm drills are cheap here

The frame diagram 

Plan B


The strips : ordered on monday, delivered on teusday.

There should be approximately 5500 to 6000 holes between the keel and the first wale. This work requires new tools 

Drilling
Adding the treenails (and my very first hammer, still in service)

Work in progress

Sort of like military coffee then?   Came in semi-liquid and "chewy" n the various line shacks and mess halls as I recall.

Only when it starts to turn from liquid to solid. 

Hi Scotty, I just found your build log today so I know I'm late the party.  Your AL Swift came out really nice; much better than when I built that kit many moons ago.  IIRC, the kit I built had die cut parts and the bulkheads looked like they were formed with a router as there was a 1/6" gap all around them.
 
I'm really impressed how much your planking improved from the first layer to the second.  I also really like some of the small details you added such as the entry of the rudder stem into the transom.  I like your homemade block sander too.  Looks like I'm going to have to buy some containers of cashews in order to make one myself (at least that will be my excuse).
 
We're sort of Pacific Northwest Neighbors.  I live a little north of you in Renton, WA.
 
Do you have any plans for your next build?
 
Welcome to MSW.
 

A fascinating discussion, if I might ask a minor detail with regard smaller vessels like Cutters; I'm currently making the Trial by Vanguard models.  Would these smaller vessels have fixed bulwark or waterway garlands?  The RMG plans and a contemporary model do not show them.  I understand absence does not mean they were not used, but was it more likely that temporary deck placed garlands were used? and placed beside the guns as discussed already on this thread.  For info. Trial had 8# 3 pounder Carriage guns and 4# 12 pounder Carronades from 1793, if that has any bearing.  Thanks for any opinions, I'm tempted to add more detail than the kit provides, but inclined to add triangular/square deck garlands if this was more likely than fixed ones.

Your house must be massive for you to have something like that lying around somewhere and forgetting that you had it  I have a typical Melbourne home ... expensive and small. I would definitely notice something like that in my house! 

As promised here is the hull at 1/40 for size reference,  I carved this one on CNC a while ago, I forgot I had it.

In regards to Anigre as a wood for teak decking, I have posted this somewhere else but since it is what I am doing for his I will post the image here to.
I know my woods and have been a furniture builder most of my life and still build guitars.
Anigre is not a high ranked wood but it is fine grained and nice to use, it does have an unpleasent smell..it smells like **** frankly.. but it goes quickly and becomes musty in smell, it cuts well and sands really nicely, it is fine grain with no large pores, about the same as Cherry.
The issue is availability, if you can get it get as much as you can afford because it may not be around much longer due to bans on logging.
I did some searching for it in the US and it seems easier to get for you.
It is also readily available as veneer, be careful of this as its normally fiddleback with waves in it, its beautiful wood but no good on a deck.
Here it is in veneer form on a cabinet I made 20 years ago note the figure which you don't want
as you can see the colours match pretty well, the greyer stuff is good for older teak, for scale those planks are about 6 inches wide, the front one 4

Note the fiddleback figure in the venner! you don't want this if you buy Anigre veneer.
By the way this was toned to this colour, it's not the natural colour.

The Airfix Golden Hind 1/72 kit is a 50 years old vintage kit. I bought this kit to practice rigging Galleons. 
 
https://www.hismodel.com/golden-hind-6
This is my reference for rigging practice. I know the rigging plans aren't equal to my kit, so I'm fixing some parts of the plan.

I did basic paintings only. The Golden Hind has no reference, so we don't know exactly what color it was.
 
Skipping hull building is an advantage of the plastic kit.  
 



 
The painting is done. I added belaying pin racks.

I made belaying pins using brass rods and high viscosity (sticky) CA glue.
 

Also, I designed 15 species 310 blocks for Golden Hind.
 

Laser cut
 

And assembly. 😭
 

I'm still modifing many parts. It is not easy to get started on rigging ASAP as I planned... I hope companies like Eduard make detail up parts for specific plastic kits.

Desk globe, map and some bottles. Skull candle holder. Everything here is SLA 3D printed
 

 

I've done a custom mix for metallic gray. Will be doing my stripes in black. Heavy on the clear coats and polish to follow.
 
 

Bow Work Completed
Returned to the workshop this morning after a couple of days aways looking after our 3 year old granddaughter as her parents become proud parents to a baby boy (our 5th grandkid).
 
I have managed to complete adding the various rails, ekeing, knees, ledges, seats of comfort and timberheads around the bow area.

The cathead knee

As the next photo shows there is some touching up required.

I remembered to add the polybak decorative pattern, as can be seen in the next photo, to the stem post.

Seats of comfort

Hi all,
 
There hasnt been any updates for long time .
 
Some Clients have asked if im closing down the shop - not at all.
I had issue where drumsander broke down and i was basically closed for few weeks. Luckily i learned thing or two about fixing drumsanders.....
 
Regarding stock.
I have plenty of Castello boxwood, Alaskan yellow cedar, black hornbeam and Swiss pear (different shades).
Limited quantity of American holly, white hornbeam.
 
Regarding Swiss pear.
As have gotten reasonable amount of very very light Swiss pear.
So at the moment there are 3 shades available:
1) Dark (Swiss pear - elsbree steamed)
2) Light/pink (true pear steamed)
3) Very light (Swiss pear - elsbree steamed)
Photos below give better overview of the shades.
 
Note that if you are building a bigger project where orders are divided into longer period of time then please let me know.
Then i will keep named sample of the color i have sent You with the first package and do my best to follow that in future orders.
 
As always all requests can be sent as PM here or hobbymill.eu@gmail.com
 
Br
Vahur
Hobbymill.EU

 

Cowling is finished and the intake at the bottom (oil cooler intake, maybe?) and exhaust pipes have been added. A certain amount of guesswork went into the latter two constructions, as there were no close-up diagrams for either of them, and the instructions for this kit are ludicrously terse.
 

 

Well, I got a wheel (singular) shaped. Each main gear wheel consists of four laminated disks. After gluing one up, I drill a hole through the center and use my Dremel tool to sand it to approximately the correct shape. After soaking it in some thin CA, I lightly sand it smooth. Here's a before-and-after:
 

 
Don't worry -- the gaping holes get covered by paper hubs.

Thanks again for stopping by,
 
Frank
 

Finished the cannon hatch covers all around. Repeated the 4-6-4 layout on the starboard side as I did on the port side. Opened the four hatches on the stern. Making all the little metal eyebolts for all the hatches, and lashing the pair of lanyards for each cover (opened and closed), was right up there with tying ratlines. 😊.  Also added the fleur-de-leis to each of the open hatch covers. 
 
Doing a little kit inventory. I know I still have the lanterns to add later. I would surly break them off if I added them now. From what I can tell I think I am primarily going to be working on the yards, sails, and rigging from now on. 

She;s looking really good! 
hamilton

Hi... I throw my hands up with the parts that come with this kit... the head rail by my first fit is about 5mm shorter than required and the knee of the head is twisted.
 
I know the bowsprit angle should be 32 or 36 degrees to the keel for 1719.
 
So I need the head rail to go from the cathead to the head then some middle tails . Looks like another print job...