BLACK VIKING

Popular Mechanics Shop Notes circa 1906 again. The last line is chilling.
 

There is a lot of distortion but here is a picture of Mike’s Winnie next to the speedwell for a size comparison.   The Speedwell is about 7” shorter at 3/8” scale even though the picture makes it seem like more.  That is after all the framing is done.  Only 8 more square frames to go…since this picture was taken.
 

Quick update on my first hull plank layer.  Going better than I would have anticipated, and for a first build I am mostly pleased with how the strakes are turning out.  I have learned quite a bit from this "trial-and-error" build and for the next one I hope to follow more conventional planking methods.  I should have this first layer complete by the end of this week and can move on to the second layer this weekend.  
 
 

You guys were much more cooler than me. All I ever did was try and get a stubborn pile of leaves to burn. 
I was at my dad's place and he was burning large piles of branches, getting them going with diluted diesel fuel. When I was home later and couldn't get my pile started, I poured a bit of gasoline on it. I wasn't aware of what dad had used, besides burn is burn, right?
I remember seeing nothing but fire when I bent over to light it. Only lost a bit of hair, but boy those leaves were ash quick.

Last update, the Olympia is ready.
 
Thank you all for following the Opel assembly line.  😉

A M4 high speed tractor from Hobbyboss is also ready

Thanks for following likes and comments
 

Roof Railings.
 
Back to modelling after an extended holiday.
 
The front part of the railing was constructed as for the drivers cabin using 2mm Brass rod, bent to shape and silver soldered together using a jig to ensure uniformity

The rear part of the railing was constructed from 1,5 mm brass rod and 1-hole stanchions again silver soldered together:
 

As the construction proceded the framework was tested out on the roof and holes drilled in appropriate places to take the vertical stanchions:
 

The assembly was painted black.  My standard method for brass is to use an etch primer and a topcoat of Humbrol Matt Black.

The final assembly looked like this:
 

Finally the whole assembly was attached to the roof and secured with a few drops of CA to the in the holes:
 

 The next step will be to attach the cabin to the chassis.  I have already prepared the brackets for this step since the cabin needs to be inverted and this could damage the roof rack once it is in place.
 
John
 
 
 

Nice observayion!!!... I think You are right...it is the same !:)))

Tongue in cheek, but the other ancient name for Bitumen of Judea was Asphaltum. So, next time you see the crew repairing the cracks in the road with liquid asphalt, have them give you a bit and dilute it with some mineral spirits.  😲😏
I'll crawl back into my hole now.
 
Regards,
Henry

But this variant of transformatiom plastic tonwooden is my lovely :)))
https://karopka.ru/community/user/14122/?MODEL=460592
 
Корпус: основной цвет грязно коричневый (на глаз), далее сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая, потом битумный лак с расстворителем 1:1.
Палуба: песочный, проливка тамия - темно коричневая и снова сухая кисть темперой - сиена натуральная и охра светлая.
Body: the main color is dirty brown (by eye), then a dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher, then bituminous varnish with a 1:1 thinner.
 Deck: sand, tamiya wash - dark brown and again dry brush with tempera - natural sienna and light ocher.

 

       

Thanks Gary.
Details, details, details…
While waiting for the additional shingles to arrive, I have begun work on some further details. First up is adding the Pitch and Tar Tank and it’s platform. A 1:1 scale drawing is provided as a template upon which the platform is built. A couple of scrap wood guides are first attached to the template with double-sided tape.
 

 
Three support beams are then cut to the size specified on the drawing and these are also attached to the template using double-sided tape.
 

 
The five joists are cut to size and glued atop the support beams.
 

 
We are then instructed to cut 10 deck boards from the 1/32” x 1/16” material. As can be seen from the first picture above, the drawing shows these 10 deck boards in place. The only problem with this is that the completed platform measures 7/8” x 7/8”. 10 deck boards that are each 1/16” wide are only ever going to cover 5/8” (or very slightly more allowing for a little size variation and potential small gaps). In the end I needed 13 boards to fill the space, with the last one trimmed back a little. I checked the size of my completed platform against the drawings, and it matches these. It is also a good fit for the size of the tank. No big deal, but there is definitely a discrepancy in the drawings/instructions/materials here.
 
Anyway, once the platform is completed, some bracing is added to all sides. Here is a picture of the completed platform.
 

 
The Pitch and Tar Tank is a resin casting. This is our first foray into the plethora of resin and metal castings included in the kit. It is prepared by painting a light undercoat and then dry-brushing a darker brown over the top. It is then given a dusting of dry chalk powder to finish.
 

 
Subsequent to this photo being taken, I decided to give the entire tank a dunk in my Alcohol/Ink mixture and was quite pleased with the result.
 
Here are a couple of pictures of the completed structure in place atop the Warehouse roof. Note also the addition of support blocks around the platform legs. Prior to final placement, the metal pipe was prepared, blackened and attached to both the tank and the roof. As with previous metal fixtures, black paint was added to the epoxy glue to represent tar and pitch where the pipe enters the roof. It has yet to be finally finished off with some chalk to dull it down a little further.
 

 

 
The Chimney and Stacks for the other roofs were then prepared. These are all white metal castings. With the exception of the Chimney, they are simply cleaned, blackened, polished, and dusted with some grey chalk powder. The Chimney itself has a multi-phase preparation. An undercoat of AK11007 (Rock Grey) is used in place of the Pollyscale Concrete called for in the instructions. This represents the mortar between the bricks. AK 11087 (Scarlet Red) is then used in place of Floquil Scarlet Red and dry-brushed over the top. The aim is to colour only the bricks, leaving the mortar seams untouched. This project has been my first real attempt at the dry-brushing technique, so I’m learning as I go. From normal viewing distance I think it looks okay – the macro lens of the camera is a little brutal though. The top of the Chimney is painted with AK11021 (Basalt Grey) in place of Floquil Grimy Black and finished off with a dusting of black and grey chalk powders to give a “sooty” appearance.
 

 
All of these parts, except the Pitch and Tar Tank pipe, have now been set aside and will be fitted in place once the Yard Master’s Office roof has been completed and that building attached to the Warehouse front.
 
Next up, I’ll be starting work on the loading docks…
 

Welcome on the start of what will become a long build log of the Mary Rose. The idea is to build this model like on the cover of the book "Mary Rose, Your Noblest Shippe"
 
HISTORY (Wikipedia) 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_Rose
 
MUSEUM
https://maryrose.org/the-history-of-the-mary-rose/
 
BOOKS
 
 
 
INDEX
 
Frames (bulkheads)
Design
Building slip and align the frames
Fillerblocks
 
Planking
Keel and lower hull planking
Planking between wale 1 and 3
Treenails
Waist an bow
 
Rear castle
Build up
 
Cannon deck
Basis
 
Base plate
 
 
 
Started sawing wood at the beginning of last year (cherry)

Books have been bought and partially read.

The frames have been enlarged with a printer to a scale of approximately 1/48 - 1/50.


I first wanted to build on a scale of 1/45 (like my Pelican). After an initial investigation whether I have room for a fully finished model on that scale, it will be a scale of 1/50. 1/45 will be too big to fit in the closet.

 
The first step is drawing out the frames on paper (3D designing and printing is not my thing, drawing, sawing, filing, sanding and making dust is).

To be continued

thank you very much 

Outstanding !  Your build log will be a real help for anyone doing a ship of this type  ... very inspirational !

The finished model.
Thanks to everyone for the following, likes and positive comments throughout this long build
This was my first time building a ship model from scratch.
It was fun, and worth repeating.

HMCS Sackville passing 'Ocean Pilgrim' North Atlantic WW2
16" X 11"

Thanks for likes and comments.
 
Flags
At first sight a successful experiment 
 
the tissue paper is taped to the standard printing paper. And came out of the printer without getting stuck.

The tissue has been cut loose

the flags are glued together and somewhat wrinkled.

after drying overnight.

Now attach these to the masts.

I'm going to follow this method, it's the most common.

from the book "Prins Willem" of Herman Ketting.

And this man probably knew more about ships than I do.

Thanks for following
 

Thanks again, everyone!

Small update. Just got back from the fracture clinic. Surgery is in my near future, pins and plates, maybe tomorrow. I actually feel this is a good thing, my recovery should be quicker and overall less painful, and in long term better for me.
 
I’ll be back at the workbench soon! 🤞

Andy

It’s good to hear that the Drs are not wasting time patching you up.  Get well soon.
 
Roger

Take care of the important things first brother, we will wait for you...

Well, possibly an ill judged foray into something different. This is the Aedes Ars kit to build the Castle Loarre in Spain out of individual ceramic blocks. All 8600 of them.
I built the Towers of Rochelle by the same kit manufacturer a while ago and although there were some caveats about the scale of some elements it looked decent when I finished it.
A great friend of mine sent me this kit (and paid postage all the way from Spain) a couple of years ago and I am ashamed to say it has languished. I found I got bogged down in the Rochelle build. In that kit there is a large multi-curved tower that used about 80 blocks per tier and it seemed like in spite of the hours working on it, it felt like it was going nowhere, I'm hoping that this one might go better having a widen array of smaller elements but 2000 more blocks. I suspect there will be regular breaks to play with something less demanding.

Inside the box, plans and general guides. Some basic landscape elements which will be ditched in favour of the Woodlands Scenics investment for the howitzer diorama.  Lots and Lots of blocks

The kit is built on a printed cardboard base which I decided to glue to a piece of 3/4 plywood. The finished kit is going to be heavy and a piece of cardboard as a base is not going to do it.
The structures are created by building up the walls against card formers. These are die cut and just need easing out of the frames

The kit provides lengths of scored card strips to create tabs to glue the formers together and to the base. The kit provides two bottles of glue which is unlikely to be enough. I switch to Weldbond when it runs out. A syringe is an efficient way to dispense the glue


The curved sections of walls and towers require the formers to be curved. ts easy to crease and ditort the card but using the PE rollers produced decent results


A variety of heavy things are used to hold the sections down until the glue sets up.

And the first section of wall formers are up

This may get very boring so I will only update at intervals when there is discernable progress. I'm hoping that with a bit of community spirit I can complete this without getting overburdened.
I hope you enjoy watching it come together.
There is one outstanding question - where will the completed model go. The base is 26 inches by 22 inches. Oh dear!
Thanks for looking in
Alan
 

A lot of rigging for one day. 

Thank you gentlemen, the task at the moment is completing the channels and the closed gun port lid ropes.
 
Michael D.

Having fun not doing a ship.  

Today I received the fittings and more fragile laser cut sheet box. This fits within the main box, protecting the parts further when in transit, as the main MDF hull parts are very heavy.