BLACK VIKING

An Introduction to Model Ship Building “Dockyard Style”
Adrian Sorolla
ANCRE – French Naval Archeology Collection, 2020
21X30 cm format, softback, 232 pages
Fully illustrated with color photographs and drawings on heavy gloss paper
46 Euros – Available in English, French, Spanish, Italian
ISBN: 979-10-96873-92-0
Available from ancre.fr

 
What’s inside (from the author):  
It is obvious that building a plank on frame model has always generated a certain amount of respect within the model ship building community: even from experienced builders.  Taking on the construction of a first planked on frame model from a set of plans seems daunting. No box of pre-cut pieces, no pre-milled to size lumber in required quantity, no pre-made parts: evidently, all this may seem somewhat intimidating.
 
If being already familiar in building from kits, the concept of building from plans may be considered as the next logical step.  Even if this work may bring us some apprehension, it should not scare us away, as we have already acquired knowledge in model ship building: this is knowledge we can apply through all phases of the construction.
 
This guide was written to help the modeler through the various stages of construction.  As the title indicates, “An introduction to planked on frame model ship building”, this guide will show us through the process of building our first framed model from plans.  A fairly easy model to build while having fun and being supported by the numerous photos and extensive captions provided to analyze and explain each step.  This guide will introduce the modeler to ship building from plans.
    
From the first look into the plans, to the completion of the model, which will be a remarkable piece in your collection, this guide covers all phases of the construction.
 
Although a fairly easy monograph was chosen, the information contained in this guide is such that the explanations can be applied to any other monograph by adapting the advice given and the dimension of the parts needed to whatever project you may take on.
 
The chapter sequence guides us through the logical construction stages.  The different steps are presented while taking into account the fact that not all modelers are equipped with the same tools to fabricate the parts: varying from hand to highly mechanized power tools.
 
The choice of lumber, the interpretation of the plans, the use of templates to cut parts, wood working techniques, the use of cutting tools, the choice and purpose of different material (brass, ebony, boxwood, lead, tin, etc.) including the steps to follows, everything to build your model is explained in this guide.
 
Table of Contents:
Ch. I Choosing the lumber – First look at the plans, axial timbers
Ch. II The frames
Ch. III Axial structure
Ch. IV Frame installation
Ch. V Closing the front and back
Ch. VI Planking the hold
Ch. VII Fitting the hold
Ch. VIII Deck construction -1
Ch. IX Deck construction -2
Ch. X Planking the hull -1, preparation
Ch. XI Planking the hull -2
Ch. XII Deck furnishings and building the forecastle deck
Ch. XIII The quarterdeck and stern
Ch. XIV Notes on masting, ropes and rigging
 
A few notes from the reviewer:
There are a few things that do need some explanation.  Some of the drawings/photos are in French such as “modelisme d’arsenal” translates literally to "Arsenal modelism" or Dockyard Style.  When  you run into that, a few minutes with Google Translate should give you the meaning.  You will also find he refers to things pretty generally except for examples but they’re not hard to follow and sort out how you want to do it for your specific set of plans.
 
The Review:
Since you’ve read this far, you know the philosophy and a bit of the contents.   It does fulfill everything it says it is.  This book is about as good as it gets on how-to build a ship using the ANCRE monographs.  I really can’t praise it enough.  I started reading it about an hour after it showed up and literally could not put it down.  It now resides in my workshop for handy reference.   I really wish this book had been around when I started my first POF ship which was French many years ago.
 
It will take you through selecting the wood, what to expect on the plans, to making and assembling almost everything from start to finish.  For starters, every page has 4 or 5 color photos accompanying the text to illustrate exactly what’s being done. To say it is more detailed than any build log I’ve seen is an understatement.  The written text is crisp and clear which makes understanding a given step easy.
 
While the book is based on the plans of Le Rochfort by Gerard Delacroix at 1:32 scale, where your model might a different scale or different plans, it’s not too hard to covert the information as the basics apply no matter the plans. 
One nice touch is that it’s pointed out that exotic tools aren’t needed.  For example, he shows a coping saw, a scroll saw and a band saw.  He continues the practice with such things as sanding tools, etc.  Also shown and described are the various building boards/jigs.  The setup and use of the basic tools for cutting and shaping the various pieces are there.  Even how to make trunnels simply and quickly with a model table saw.
 
While the audience is intended for French ships using ANCRE monographs, the information is useful for making a ship from plans of any other nation but there are major and minor differences in the way various countries did things so take that under consideration.  Also, if you’re using a POB set of frames such as those for La Belle Poule, once you have the backbone built up start with Chapter 4 but do read Chapters 1 through 3 as there is a lot of great information that applies.
 
I should add that not everything is covered in detail such as the many fittings and rigging details which are in the individual ship’s monograph. However, if you’re interested in building French ships, I recommend as an additional reference  Frolich’s “The Art of Shipmodeling” (also from ANCRE) which goes into the bits and pieces in more depth.  After all, we can’t have too many sources can we?  The more we have, the more we know.
 

Set up all parts today, check and adjust tomorrow, and start production the day after tomorrow
There are 73 panels in total.(Castings and fittings, battens and masts are not included)
Later, I'll spend a week writing instructions

Looking good.  Pretty soon you'll have them singing "Row, row, row your boat" in 4 part harmony.

A quick update. For the time being until all the oarsmen are finished all the updates are just going to be adding more oarsmen, I'm afraid.
 

 
So far I've got 16 finished, four under way. 

Here's the first section of the main mast.  The supplied wood is basswood, so I had to stain it.
 
Regards,
David

Thanks, those seats look cool, but almost $100 to get them and have them covered. So, not sure I'm going that route.
 
Here's a sneak peak of the boat with upper sections temp installed. My main hold up is the fact that I am trying to tool this thing for possible future RC control, because the back cowl section will be permanently mounted, and running stuff from middle to transom would require breaking it apart. It wasn't really set up for removal. So I'm going to be installing bulkheads on the transom and linkage to control the rudder, and I just found out  those water tubes coming out the back of rc boats to the rudder do. It's a cooling water system for the motor. So, I guess I'll be installing two bulkheads for that and pre running some tubing through the back section to the middle. I'm probably going about this all wrong, the learning RC as I go, the intent was for this to be a nice static model, but more and more the idea of it running one day still intrigues me. So, that's why I'm pre running all of this tooling once it comes in then, I can permanently install the back cowl and caulk and paint it.
 
 

The lower deck

The Great Guns 
 
I'm working out the configuration for my Carronades.  I've deviated from the kit a fair bit by adding eyelets for inhaul, outhaul, and taverse tackle.  There is also the addition of the deck block and rings for the breach rope. The rope is .75mm and looks a bit small so I will make some 1mm and see where that goes.  I may put the eyelets with the beach rope on the side instead of on top of the carriage.  The 1.5mm wire given with the kit is to small for the Trunnion bracket which is 2mm in diameter.  Add 2mm brass wire to basket... My Cornwallmodelboats order grows... 
 
Over all the guns are going to be an amalgamation of all the pictures and info I've been gathering.  I will probably only rig the breach rope and the out haul tackle but it's nice to have the rest of the hardware add detail.  

OC.,
Now totally understand your previous questions – sorry for not correctly responding. Nice painting BTW thanks for posting . So mentally still working the bulkhead details out, and given that, now, I also want to offset the mast – hmmm?
 
I very much like the kit (only in current version) provided upper curved railings. Thought of working with those adding some details and leaving the curved edges to the bulkhead to match the rail – just because I like the curved look. That said - the flat bulkhead is certainly the correct one. McKay’s images also reflect a full flat surface. Also both kits include the railing braces - so could just use those from the old kit and leave the bulkhead flat - as it should probably be. It would certainly be easier, and I could also scratch build a flat bulkhead adding extra details as well. I will include all of the old kit provided solid bronze bits....
 

 
 
Here are examples of both looks;
 
Stunning work from Y. Shionoya  from a Sergal kit superbly bashed.
 

 
from modelships.de --- from the Sergal kit as well
 

 
And this brilliant scratch built example - bulkhead is beyond perfect - well the entire work!!!
 

 
Thanks for your interest and posts
 
Regards,
 
 

Here I am......

After taking the “mold” out, the result wasn’t the one I expected..... the hull lost its forms and it looked like a “bath tube”😟. So I took my time to analyze how to solve it.

 
In this picture.....
 

 
In the magnifiers, there is a rope called “HOGGING-TRUSS” and as its name says..... is for keeping the hull bottom curvature. Once it is installed, I guess, I’ll be able to bring the hull to its real form. Also I learned that the frames had their function too....
 

 
In the way they are tide to the planks, they should work in the other way around......

ONCE THS HOGGING-TRUSS IS STRESSED, THE FRAMES FUNCTION IS TO KEEP THE FORMS IN THE HULL. TOO MUCH STRES IN THE HOGGING-TRUSS COULD DEFORM THE HULL.

In the mid term I decided to use the false frames to keep the hull forms....
 

 
This also taught me that the planking needed to be reinforced since to many Stresses in the process.....

Next chapter we will see how this little issue was solved.........
 
Let’s remember that these ships had in their planks had tenon joints to keep the planks in site....
 

 
Bt in this scale they would be just decorative......

Well you can stick a fork in me 'cause I'm done. The acrylic case was constructed by Tap Plastics in San Jose, the base I fashioned from cherry wood and stained with Minwax mahogany.

So the paravanes are rigged and the plastic cover is off the base, I’m calling her done. I’ll take some better photos for the gallery tomorrow 


IMG_3530.MOV

Alright, the main gun assembly is completed. The gun can rotate and swivel up and down: 

 

 

 

 
Once again, the PE set from RCSubs saves the day and brings a great level of detailing.
 
Yves 
 

Continue with the deadeyes.
Started a topic in masting, rigging and sails first.
And, continued with the "ironwork" around the deadeyes and started the chains
 
Ironwork deadeyes, work in progress. 
this is not really the activity I enjoy doing most. Learned soldering at school a long time ago (Didn't like it then and still don't like it now 😂)

 
The chains.
Each chain consists of 3 links. For the time being 1 link will be added to each deadeye.
The length of each chain will be different. So most of the links will have a different length.
The deadeyes are in a groove in the side channel of the channel, they are not attached to the channel itself.
I will probably have to make the masts (lower part) first. Or temporarily fix the deadeyes with a wooden strip that will be removed later (dont now yet)

 
According to the dimensions of 1 archaeological find, the metal around the deadeye is slightly thinner in diameter than that of the chains. 
(The wire of my chain is 0.1mm too thick.)

 
 

 
Quality control on strength (looks good 👍)

 
Thanks for following
 
 

I was looking at the ship one morning and had a "OH God what have I done to her!" moment.  The varnish on the copper was ugly and needed to be removed.  600 cotton swabs and a whole 500mL bottle of 99% Isopropyl alcohol did the job.  Alcohol really does just melts acrylic varnish away.

After removal I used some more polish and shes bright and new.  The batens need some paint touch up's but aside from that I think I have redeemed her. 

 
 

I am going to try this technique for my build!
Thanks for posting such a great and detailed build log. Your work looks super neat and tidy and something to aspire to. I look forward to following along for the rest of your build.
(I’ll also be checking out your Sherbourne build too)

Excellent subject! Will be looking forward to your progress
 

The last production of Gemma 1863 is nearing completion, but due to the limited space at home, which is occupied by a large number of tools, it will be difficult to store when finished; So stop the rigging for a moment and start work on a new theme, Young America 1853. This is also one of the five all in house sailboats I plan to build in the future; I only bought the first two copies of this book, and appreciate that the author's good subject matter can be shared with you, hopefully through my craft, to recreate the brilliance of the original work.Thank you for your attention，Also wish to give positive advice。
 

 




































 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Here we go again.
First cleaning the front edge of the channel board from paint and leveling the heights of the irons ...
 

 
... and then fixing the batten to hold the deadeyes in place.
 

 
From near one can see the difference nicely. One more area finished.
 

 
Then the gunport lanyards. 
 

 
Still had some sprue, that was hollowed and pulled over the candle, resulting in nice micro tubes 🙂
Those bits were made from leather, to protect against friction and to keep water out. Took a needle to reopen the holes after cutting and used the intended thread to check the inner diameter.
 

 
The spliced the ring onto the lanyard and hooked the ring onto the lid. Checked from near and I think it could be considered to be ok.
 

 
So five or six more lids to go ...
 
Grüßle, Daniel

Ok. A quick aside. Something I couldn’t do on Sultana since I had no know how was to make a good scraper to make the detailed wood moldings on the ship. However, I was a bit more prepared this time. 
 
The metal to make the molding scraper can be a straight razor blade, a metal scraper, or any piece of thin metal with a stiff back bone. The problem is how to make the scraping shape.
 
A Dremel or rotary tool was my choice. I used some metal cutting discs which are absolutely awesome. A fellow modeler put me on them...they are very thin (carbon disc). A package of 22 are bloody cheap. 
 


This makes quick work of a metal edge. I was able to make two scraping edges (a single and double depression) in about 5 minutes. 

Pretty nice result on a 1/16” square dowel!


I think I like the double depression! 👍🏽
 
Moving on...
 

Moving on from chain plates I have made a start on the bowsprit 
The various cleats and bee are in position.
The jack staff complete with block attached
The ship at a glance of progress.
Happy with the outcome so far.

Not perfect but I think it will be enough. 

The width of the channels and the exact position of the deadeyes - schrouds has already been tested. That's not going to be the problem anymore.
 



For now I make the deadeyes first. Then probably the masts. The chains holding the deadeyes will all have different lengths.
Will be fun 

Cambrian Prince  And HMS Condor
W/C 14” X 10”

This afternoons job Themistocles Passing a couple of sailing Trawlers
w/c 14” X 10”