CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve,
 
Somewhere on my computer is a book on small boat (pinnace, gig, etc) handling, and I believe I saw something in there about rudder storage-but I can't find it yet.
 
I would think the best place to store the rudder is someplace on the floors near the stern of the boat. I know that's where we store the rudder on our small sailboats. But, they may have had other plans that made more sense under the circumstances.
 
Anyway, I'll look for that book some more in the next couple days.
 
I must say, your ship's boats are looking very nice!
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

I find this an exceptional built.
Awesome, drooling over the detailed work you put into her.
I am picking up some ideas and tips.
Thank you for sharing.
 
Marc

Australia Day has come and gone for another year.
 
Somehow, despite being a holiday weekend, I got less done than I'd hoped.
My only excuse - I guess SOMEONE had to drink all that beer !!

 
I'd been dreading the prospect of having to make holes thru the top of my rudders to fit the tiller arms. So that they wouldn't split apart, I clamped each into a bulldog clip when drilling.
I started with a 0.1mm guide hole, then drilled again at 0.3mm and then 0.5mm.
Incidentally, NOW would be a good time for me to mention that I DID actually check the angle where tiller-arm meets rudder BEFORE drilling.
 
A quick test fit - and I couldn't resist a photo or two ...
 

Anyone else notice how the white on boat and rudder is different ??
Apparently, I have two different tints of white paint on my desk...
Needless to say, the swan-boat keels had a re-paint and are now drying. 

Hi all, back from my holidays again .
 
Channels
 
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
 

 

 

 

 
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
 

 

 
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks, Sport.
To be honest, I am merely using (plagiarizing ??) and developing so many of the ideas I have picked up from other builders since joining MSW.
 
That, I believe, is the true beauty of this site !!
 
(Has it been 12 months already ?? Must be DONATION time again !!)

Dave,
 
Thanks for your encouraging post (:-)  though I must say that in the almost one year that I have been a member at MSW, my skill set has shot way way up. Kudos would also go to all of the amazing builds that I follow here, as well as the wealth of insundry topics from which I try to absorb and learn from as well. Discovering tools specific to our hobby was also of great help.
 
Again thanks, your thoughts are much appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

OMG! I didn't realize...this is your first ship. I am now REALLY amazed. Well done.

Brilliant idea, Slog ...
 
And also completely applicable to those who work in wood.

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks for dropping by with the comments and ‘likes’, much appreciated.
 
Chris, perhaps multimedia would be more appropriate    I am holding off doing the card parts since I want a more structured build starting with the hull and working up to the superstructures.  I have to hold off doing these as not sure what is covered with the laser cut forms so will have to wait until I get them.  The guns are a time filler until then.  I might do a card one for comparison at the end.
 
You provided invaluable advise the 1st time round so hopefully you will keep an eye out this time also. Also your 8 part series in the card thread got my interest up again and was most helpful.
 
 
Okay it was time to form the body cabinets.  These were bent to shape from the flat ‘petals shown previously.  Got to say it was very difficult getting the width correct as they essentially sit on the thin perimeter. 
 
Once bent to shape I used some Tamiya tape, sticky side up, to hold the bodies still, whilst I needled some epoxy into the centre area and then placed the cabinet doors on.  Problem is I now need to leave well enough alone until it sets and I can do the other side.
 
The size and shape aren’t very consistent and the widening of the cabinet from top to bottom isn't as pronounced as it should be but honestly, I think once finished up and painted no one will notice them at viewing distance on a ship 1.2 metres long!

 
 
Leaving the bodies aside to set I glued the base plates to the pedestals.  They look okay and I like the effect of the bases lifted up off the deck.

 
 
There are plenty of other bits and pieces to work on whilst stuff dries so made a start on the gun carriages.  (by the way I am just making up the names of these parts to what I think is appropriate for describing  )  I gave the outside face a rough up with sandpaper as doublers are glued to these.
 
Luckily for me the blade of my engineers square is the correct thickness for the centre section.  So it was a case of pressing down on the part with the square blade and then using a single edge razor blade to slide under and prise the sides up.  A quick tweek with the tweezers finished them off.

 
 
I am no expert with photo-etch but discovered a good tip which may prove helpful as it works for me.  I only ever cut the PE on a piece of MDF.  Since the surface is relatively firm all the blade cutting force goes into cutting the brass.  I found cutting PE on a cutting mat distorts the piece to some degree since the mat deforms/sinks/bends initially before the blade starts cutting thus deforming the part.  MDF has no give so no distortion.
 
I guess the MDF is harder on blades but for all the above I have used the same no.11 blade and it’s still serviceable so far.
 
Cheers
Slog

Another great video Jay! Thanks again for your lessons! I think these look good close up, so they must look good when viewing the ship overall.

When earlier I said that the picture would change when the main shrouds are installed, I was not quite right. The view did change when I added the two topmast backstays with the deadeyes, but the shrouds will be somewhat more to the right of the cannon.
The lines to the left coming down (out off focus) are the starboard main royal halliards. I have also added a small 'coil' for the flag halliard.

Here is a little more. The flight deck is a replacement - the original was warped sideways and couldn't be fixed, so they sent me a new one. This is a great company and will sent replacement parts free of charge without any questions asked. Can't beat that!
 
The kit included a complete set of PE, so it looks like I will be having some fun...
 
They also sent a complete back dated air wing of all aircraft that were on her during the 1969 time frame. Hope you all enjoy the pictures and I will continue to post progress when my two little ones give me time!
 
 
 
 

Thanks guys. Cap, I have an Iwata airbush for the painting. Yes, he is doing well - I am trying to get him into shipbuilding because I consider him to be a master woodworker (if I could only be half as good...), maybe one day!
 
Craig, that is pretty much how I do it, too. However, in this case I will attach the island to the deck before painting because the fit isn't quite the best and I will have to use some filler.
 
Oops, this is in the Q&A section as was kindly pointed out...who do I ask to move it? Thanks!

Well I must be the worlds slowest builder:) but I refuse to surrender!! Been trying to teach myself how to solder and here is some rigging I finally finished.  I love this site it helps keep me motivated and building. One step at a time and maybe one day I'll have a finished model. 
 
Thanks Scott

Thanks Augie and Popeye!
 
Augie, you'll love planking the decks with Jeff's boxwood.  You've done a fine job on your hull planking with basswood, so you'll have NO trouble with the boxwood.  It's great to be able to pick up a plank and not have to dress both edges to HOPE to get a tight fit.  All I've done is use a caliper to make sure planks that are butted end to end (which are cut from different planks) are the same width.  I have found there are .001 to .002 (thousandths) down to .0005 (5 ten thousandths, or 1/2 of a thousandth) variation in plank widths so all I have to do is sort for matching widths.  This may seem extreme, and probably is, but in my quest for straight, gapless plank runs this must be done...
 
Oh, and the pencil lead on the plank edge technique that I found in some of my very first readings on MSW works like a champ!  With the boxwood and cherry stain I think the look is perfect (of course that's my opinion, yours may vary)
 
I can't wait till the day I take the same pics with guns rigged on the deck.  But alas, that's still a long ways off...

Those decks are outstanding !! 

OK, I've indulged.  SWEET!!  I can almost hear Ahab's ivory leg clomping along the deck ....... oh wait ---- wrong ship !!!!
 
Just so happens I have a pile of Jeff's wood set aside for my decks

Let me ask for your indulgence as I post a few gratuitous "here's my planking pics".  I do think these look pretty cool, from a "crewman's" point of view.
I also want to add again what a pleasure it is to use Jeff Hayes (Hobbymil) supplied boxwood deck planking.  Makes all the difference in the world over basswood...






 

There is some seriously impressive work going here mate, I love every update.
 
Keep it up Wes.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Thanks again for the wonderful comments and support everyone.
 
One of the previous problems I had was no definitive reference points.  This led to more than a few errors in the heat of battle... err.. building. 
 
I'm adding some things to the frame drawings...  the cutline is being defined as are the wale locations, gunport, and deck clamps.  Hahn defines these on his framing diagram but then suggests that we cut up his plans and use them to mark up the hull...     I'm planning on "nicking" gently the frame at some of these points such as cutline, wales, putting in a nub to mount the deck clamps on, and as before, pre-cutting out the gunport area.   I've also marked the frame drawings with lines at the outside/bottom edge of the build board so I don't make the frames over long.
 
The frame in the pic doesn't have any gunport work but is representative and I still have another 54 frames to do... 

 
Lastly, I've mounted the framing diagram (since it has 95% of the reference points I need) on a piece of Masonite.  When I'm done verifying each frame, I'll glue a strip of wood to overlay the baseboard line.  This will give me a positive reference point when using the EdT Measuring Tool.  Again, I know I had some issues getting the bottom end dead on the line for the base board consistently. 
 
For those who haven't see it, it's a great tool for transferring reference points from plans to the build.  It came from Ed's Naiad build.  Mine is made from boxwood with some brass fittings and a steel thumbscrew.

 

Wow, I've been off practicing my carving and checked in to MSW to find this surprise. What a brave attitude to restart such a large endeavor but as I've learned, that is just the way the ship building business works out sometime. Not stepping back was maybe what caused such disasters as the Wasa disaster.
 
I'm sure there is no fun in making such a momentous decision, but continuing while knowing would have destroyed the future of fun on the build. Sometimes the biggest setbacks are what make the journey so much more interesting, even through the disappointment. I think its good for beginners like myself to learn this lesson quickly and thank you for letting us experience it with you. Your not only an outstanding moderator but a shining example of this hobbies great builders and I consider you a mentor as you've help teach and motivate me in my endeavor towards always becoming better at this hobby.
 
I hope your old build log remains in the forum and you might consider linking it in your first post here, kind of like a ship wreck for others to see that even the best laid plans sometime go awry and require drastic measures to correct. I've always believed we learn WAY more from our mistakes then our successes and there is true benefit for others builder (especially new builders) to witness the issues of others and understand that this is part of the path to being better.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing more FUN.
 
On a side note, As I looked over my ANCRE Le Requin plans yesterday and thought about your experience here I questioned....
I've considered ordering the Amati Xebec plans and building a POB (I prefer the smaller 1:60) as a practice run before attempting a full POF. Something to help get a feel for the shape and lay of the ship. You mentioned the problems of using 2 sets of plans and I'd use each set for each build ( i.e. ANCRE for the 1:48 POF and the Amati for the 1:60 POB). My main reasoning for this is I'm lazy and don't wish to rescale the 1:48 plans to 1:60.
Would you recommend this as a good practice or a waste of time. I guess what I'm asking, had you build a POB structure prior to the POF, would it have helped point out issues and helped prevent this for you?
Thanks for your sharing of experience, I find living vicariously though others builds very helpful in learning. As I start my 2nd year building I am amazed at the levels I've achieved and all credit goes to MSW and her community. Without MSW I'd have surely given up in frustration. It really makes me appreciate those that have build prior to the internet forums for support. 
 
To one of the best, Mark!   Cheers and may the sailing be smooth from here for you!

Whew, just made it in time. Where's Sjors with the popcorn?
 
Looking forward to the all new and improved Licorne II Mark.

What a great build log so far!
 
Sorry I can't help you with your question about how they should be stowed, but I can console you in not getting so much done over the weekend by reminding you it would have been VERY un-Australian not to drink the beer on Australia Day Weekend 

Where's that guy with the pop-corn ??

OK...I will reconstruct an abbreviated build log for my Conny.  I started the USS Constitution kit by Model Shipways around the Fall of 2010.  I neglected to take pictures of the very early stages of the build such as the false keel, bulkheads, and planking...well...a bit more.  And, I discovered that I am missing a whole bunch of early photos (if I find them I will append them into the log).    EDIT: I found some early pictures of the build and I will insert them here!
 
Some early photos of the bow structures coming together...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Adding more and more hull details...
 

 

 

 

 
Some of the deck details are taking shape...
 

 

 

 
Deck cannons are being placed...
 

 
More deck details...