vaddoc

I am posting the conclusions I ve reached, as others may find it helpfull The first thing to decide when arranging the deck is the crown height or camber. It is usually between 1/2 and 1 inch per foot of beam. Then, find the maximum beam and draw an arc or parabola. There are a few ways of doing this but I used a 3D program. Following this, use the same arc for all points (beams) across the length of the hull. Keep the arc vertical to the waterline and not the sheer (bevelling/fairing will be needed for the beams to sit on the beam selves and the planks to sit on the beams.) Provided the sheer is fair, the deck centreline that will be produced will be fair as well. Nothing is easy in boatbuilding! Vaddoc

Well, I just measured the actual length and beam of the boat Length (to more foremost end of planking: In plans 703mm, actual 703. (!) Beam: In plans 236, actual 239. (a couple of frames were off sideways by a mm or 2, reason unknown) So the 3D designs for the beams correspond to the boat length wise but are off by 1.5 mm on each side of the beam. So I will need to re-do the beams but for making the cabin I probably will be able to fully use the 3D to cut the templates. Vaddoc

Druxey, Wintergreen and Mark, thank you all for your good words. I have been deliberating the deck issue for the last few weeks. Today, I sat down to the computer and did a bit of 3D. Initially, I decided that a deck crown (or camber) of 3/4 inch per foot, that is 7.5 mm in my boat, should look ok. Actually I thought that it would be too much. After adding the deck to the hull though, on 3D it is apparent that actually is not enough! I did it again with a 10 mm crown and this time it was better. I then made all the beams and the longitudinal members and trimmed the beams, I could not make Rhino work with a parabola but an arc looks ok. I used the same arc (as it came out at max beam) for all beams and indeed, the deck centreline worked it self out fine (I checked, it is very fair). and then added the whole thing to the boat I will check but I do not think My boat matches accurately enough my plans so maybe I will not be able to use these templates. Still, the 3D has been very useful so far not only to decide the camber, but also for the following reasons: Following the original plans, there is really a very narrow deck on the sides of the cabin, I think I will need to make it a bit wider. I had the concern that the longitudinal beams would have some crazy twist but they appear reasonably straight as the next photo shows Finally, as I decided to make the beams vertical and not perpendicular to the sheer, the 3D gives me more or less the bevel that will be needed I have also done a bit of thinking for the cabin. I think the side walls should have a slight tilt inwards and that the top should follow the sheer to a degree and of course have a camber. But this is for much later on. Regards Vaddoc

I just came across your log G.L, very very nice. I think that your deck looks fantastic. But just for your lofting using pencils and rulers without the help of computers, you have my respect! What do you use for brass blackening? Regards Vaddoc

Many thanks Mark, this was really helpful Vaddoc

Beautiful work Mark, very clean, you make it look so easy! Difficult to tell but you seem to have managed to plank the hull without a lot of spilling. The deck seems to have a very small crown height, I read that the typical height is something like 1/4 to 1/2 inch per foot of beam. How did you come up with the beam shape? I am currently struggling to understand decks! Also, did you brush paint the enamel on the keel? If so this is a fantastic result. Regards

Many thanks Lehmann, yes I ve come across this and I ll be using it

Another milestone reached, the hull is finished! It took a massive amount of filler to do the job. Then I applied two coats of sanding sealer, sanding after its coat. Finally, I sanded to 240 grit and then used some 0000 steel wool. The hull is now very smooth, sealed and the imperfections are all filled. Notice that the light reflects off the surface of the hull! I then cut the ribs flush with the sheer. I left the ones that secure the braces though. I now need to figure out how the deck will work and then start making the beams .

I think I get it know The way to do it is to decide on the crown height at max beam and decide on a method to draw the camber. Then you apply the same camber along the boat and different cron heights are produced. As long as your seer is fair, the deck centreline that will be produced will be also a fair curve and the deck planks should sit nicely.

Jud This makes a lot of sense, I understand what you say. This will work brilliantly if the deck centreline is a straight line. Will it be the same if the centreline has a slight curve to follow the sheer (not fully, to a degree)? Vaddoc

Thanks John I have a full set of plans which were (I think) a bit inaccurate so I had to do quite a lot of lofting. However, in the plans there is very little info regarding the deck. It seems that all naval architects assume that this is a very easy part and do not elaborate! I have tried to find some info on the subject but there is very little on the net. I think I ll need to get Chapelle's book. Still, The deck centreline does not seem to always follow the sheer, some times it can be actually almost a horizontal line. Others go for a variable crown towards one or both ends. But even if we suppose it follows the sheer, the crown will need to get more shallow as it reaches the bow and stern otherwise the deck will rise unnatural high. In my boat, the crown should be around 19 mm but the top of the beam selves is 3 mm down from the sheer Then there is the king plan that is pretty long and needs to be straight, but that section of the deck curves upwards. I think I need to study...

Happy New Year to all! I could have done some work on the boat during holidays but I accidentally threw away the filler putty I had just received. So waiting for the replacement work on the hull could not proceed. Strangely, there are still some glue stains around the tree nails that refuse to disappear despite aggressive sanding. It is very tiring to sand this huge hull so I gave up. Maybe I ll give it another try later on. As I had a lot of free time, I decided to set up a ropewalk and make some rope. In my new garage I have more space and also I got some linen thread I was keen to try. Again I used whatever I could find lying around in the garage that could do the job and the motorised spinning thingy I had put together building my previous boat. I can easily make ropes 2 to 3 meters length. I still need to improve a few things though. A short video making some rope I did 2 ropes, left is cotton, right is linen This is rope made from cotton and this is made from linen Not really a huge difference. Cotton is a bit more rigid and less fluffy. I then did some thick linen rope 2 ways, either with just twisting 4 threads per strand producing 3 strand left hand rope, or by properly twisting 3 left hand ropes and then using them to twist a 3 strand right hand rope. Despite needing much more work, it looks pretty much the same. Maybe the RH one is a bit more tight. All ropes side by side I can produce pretty much any size rope in any twist in long lengths but I do not really like how rigid cotton and linen ropes are, I feel they are a bit wrong materials. I have ordered some cotton/linen thread, cotton/synthetic and some monofilament thread to experiment. I would like to get some cotton covered synthetic thread as well but it comes in large industrial lengths and is a bit expensive. Also, I think I need to make a new motorised twisting thingy with 4 strands instead of my current 3, this should give me more flexibility. As I work in 1:10 scale I think I will need some really large ropes for the rigging.

Some more progress made today. I finally got my gas heater sorted and now the garage is cosy and warm. I also spent 2 days cleaning and tidying up. I started sanding the hull and another difficulty in working in large scale presented. It is actually a physically demanding task! I initially used 120 grit sandpaper but then I used a blade to scrape the high areas. I continued with the 120 and it is starting to look better. There is still a massive amount of sanding but this hull has potential!

I recently finished planking my hull. I used 1 mm micro screws to temporarily secure the planks. These when then removed and the holes filled with tree nails that I make in bulk. It worked beautifully but I built in scale 1:10, I ll paint the hull and my planks were 70 cm long. But maybe it can work for you

My dear Patrick "I’m still chasing that elusive perfectly smooth and unblemished paint job" Easy, you just need to apply coat after coat, sand gradually to 250,000 grit or thereabouts and in a few years you ll get it. (my painful experience with brush painting) Or you can compromise for a really good paint job! It must be summer time down under, I envy the good weather in your photos, here everything is frozen. Looking forward to seeing this glorious golden paint fully buffed and shining Regards

When I started boat building the first woods I used were lime, mahogany and walnut. I gave up on all. The problem with walnut is the interlocking grain. I found it difficult to cut and have a clean edge and when bend could suddenly break diagonally along the cross grain fibres. Shaping a strip, it could follow the stray fibres. There are much nicer woods. It finishes superbly though!

Even after heating and bending, a strip should not really brake if pushed further. It might have to do with the wood you use. Maple and beech for example are very flexible and do not become brittle. This is a mahogany strip 0.5 mm that I bent to make hoops

A milestone reached today. I glued the keel on! The hull is now complete. Next step lots of sanding, filling and sealing!

Dear all Could I ask for your help in understanding how the deck is drawn in small sailboats. I am not exactly sure what or how to ask as my knowledge and understanding of this is very shallow but I ll try. I think I have understood that the camber of the beams is a parabola and that there are many ways that this can be drawn. My main problem though is the deck centreline. The way I understand it, it is essentially a straight line form the stem to the transom, having chosen a crown height at max beam. Due to the deck furniture and the very visible sheer, this straight deck centreline is hidden from view. However, it seems that most decks are truly curved. 1. Is there a rule of how curved the deck centreline can be? 2. If the centreline is curved, what happens to the king plank that needs to be straight? 3. Suppose I draw a slightly curved centreline that pleases the eye and then arrange the beams using the same way to figure out the camber. Is it likely that the deck planks will sit nicely or will a lot of fairing be needed? 4. Is the crown height measured perpendicular to the horizontal level or to the sheer? In the first case the beams will meet the deck planks at an angle and will need fairing but in the second will sit flat. Or is this not an issue to the relatively small rise of the sheer? 5. Is it better to go for a straight centreline or is it better to have a bit of curve? Apologies if I don't make much sense! Vaddoc

Welcome Scipios!

Another quick update The interior of the hull has had filler applied, then a coat of sealer, then a thick coat of Halfords white primer and then a coat of pledge floor polish. I think it is now reasonably sealed! I should have waited 24 hours for the primer to fully dry before applying Pledge but it did not cross my mind. The deck will hopefully cover all sins. I still need to remove the masking tape from the transom and stem but at least the appearance has improved a bit.

Dear all You might find this helpful I have some 2 part epoxy resin that I bought maybe 5 years ago. It is still perfectly fine and I have lots left. However, the resin had become very thick to the point I could not draw with a syringe. I popped it in the microwave with the lid off for 25 secs in increments (for a half full 12 oz bottle). It liquified again beautifully. It seems that the resin can crystallise in cold or with time and that microwaving it or letting it sit in warm water brings it back. Visually, there does not seem to be any difference in its qualities. Previously I had thrown away epoxy or had trouble matching the volumes because of this problem so this seems a good fix. No health and safety guarantees though, I did it when the admiral was out. Regards

Dear all A very quick update. I finished the beam selves, maybe I should have added another 3x3 strip on each side but it is super strong and I think it would be a waste of time and of expensive timber. I also added the stringer in one side and this task proved a very challenging one. It was difficult to find the position and persuade the 11 x 2 mm strip to stay in place. I had to use epoxy and the whole job was very messy. I do not look forward at all to doing the other side. Planking the inside of a ship must be much more difficult than planking the outside. I also started applying sanding sealer to the inner surfaces of the hull. White primer will be sprayed on top when all is finished. I am very happy I chose this boat, so far it has been great fun and I am learning a lot in the process. Still, it is far more difficult (and expensive) than I initially thought. Regards

I think you are right Mark. So the plan now is to finish with the stringers and beam selves and then to seal the inside of the hull and spray white primer all over. Then, to glue the keel on, fill, sand and seal the hull but leave the paint for (much) later on. The beam selves should be 11 x 3 mm. I think it was a good idea to essentially laminate 3 strips 3x3mm each as I was able to very easily follow the curve of the sheer in both dimensions. I decided to use epoxy for its gap filling abilities. Still it is messy and unforgiving and I had to work really fast as with the high temperature in the house it cured very fast. The port side is curing and tomorrow I ll probably do the other side. I think I won't bother sanding the excess epoxy as the deck will cover everything. Indeed, you can never have enough clamps!

Dear all thank you very much for your comments Druxey, indeed humidity is what causes the problem but with the cold and the constant heating in the house everything is pretty dry and it will be months before temperatures in Britain pick up! Mark, what do you mean by undercoat? The inside of the planks is well covered with filler but I guess I could spray some white primer on, this should seal it even better as well as cover the ribs and keel. As for the outside of the boat, after filling and sanding I was thinking of actually using a sanding sealer, then primer and then paint the hull. I have used sanding sealer on MDF which is very water absorbent and waterproofs it nicely. This should seal the wood, I just don't know if I can do this before spring time. I was thinking of getting the beams and deck on before sanding the hull but maybe I need to finish the hull first, at least getting the sealer and primer on and the paint bellow the waterline as primer is soft and will mark easily. Regards Vaddoc