puckotred

more photo

and some new photos

Finished the boat today!  I've posted a gallery of pictures in the Completed Models Gallery, but here's one of the finished boat.
 
Thanks to all who followed along on this one.
 
Regards,
David

Tender is now completed -- and mounted on the boat.
 
Regards,
David
 

Getting close to the end now.
Bow area and railing done Side decks installed (I'm not fast -- I did these on a pre-cut framework while I was painting the hull) Swim platform installed Shafts, rudders and props installed Cleats installed The lower superstructure is now permanently mounted and glued.  The flying bridge is still removable and will stay that way.
 
What's left:  tender boat (which has some detail), and mast/boom (which looks like a detailed assembly).
 
Regards,
David

Bottom of hull painted and black stripe applied to waterline.  As I mentioned earlier, I didn't like the light blue shown in the kit pictures, so I went with a royal blue instead.
 
Regards,
David

Now painting the hull.  You can see what the unpainted hull looks like in my posts above.
 
The first picture shows the hull after two coats of spray paint.  The poor look is a result of two things:
The spray paint doesn't penetrate well into the spaces between the larger planks.  I wasn't confident that more coats would do it, and was concerned that if I sprayed too much or too close I'd get runs and drips. Much of the darker parts result from small gaps between the 1x1mm spacer strips and the planks. So to fill those gaps down inside the spaces, I troweled on wood filler across the whole hull, and then opened up the spaces again using spare 1x1mm wood strips as small shaping "trowels" to "re-sculpt" the spaces into the wood filler, followed by wiping down the hull to remove excess filler (and then cleaning up the spaces again).  I then put on two coats of brushed-on paint to be sure the spaces were filled.  Finally, about 3 more coats of spray paint/sanding plus some spot spray.  The result is in the second picture.
 
If I was going to do this again from scratch, I'd first do one coat of spray to reveal the gaps, then wood filler, then 1-2 coats of brushed on paint, then spray.
 
Now I need to give this a full day to dry well, then tape the water line and spray the bottom of the hull blue.
 
Regards,
David

Yes, after the deck base, the deck is coming next! But the king plank and the covering board first… So, the king plank and the covering board are laser cut elements and they need to be glued onto the deck base… Then the deck planks are to be cut and placed between these elements… The main deck goes first and the forecastle deck after it … There is the inner planking at the forecastle deck, so the stanchions are to be set onto the covering board…
Altogether, there are the photos:
 

Continued with the items on deck.
Previously, I had made blocks with 2 sheaves, in which I used some messing discs as the pulleys inside.
However, inspired by fellow builders on this website (md1400cs; Michael), I decided to replace them in order to improve them.
I tried to use my proxxon milling machine, but had no small milling tips. Therefore, I made from several layers of wood, like I had done before. I made the internal pulleys by sawing small parts from a round wood, used sand paper to thin them and then drilled a hole in them.
 
The situation before the upgrade:
 
Making the block from wood planks:

All of them, before pplacing them on deck:

 
The upgraded blocks on deck:

Hello all, it was a while ago. 
I haven't build on the Sherbourne for some time because life get in the way. I have also done some other project like this:)
 

 
However I have now start to build on the Sherbourne again and I have just finished the planking. It is far from perfect but since this build is to learn the different technics. Lessons that I have learned is:
Use more time and make better planing and drawings at the beginning. Now that I have done it the first time I know how the outcome will be so the planing will be easier. Plank in smaller belts so it is possible to correct the lines between the belts. Not afraid to use a sharp knife to correct planks that already is glued in place. Start with the garboard strake and plank upwards since I don't like at all the fit in plank between other planks. You will then always have a plank to press against.  Be careful with needles since they make mark in the planks even if you put them at the side of the plank to hold it in positioning. Be better to use rabbet and this most in the steam. Be very carefully with superglue since in "paint" the planks dark. Try to avoid water as much as possible when bending planks. It takes to long time to dry them before it is possible to glue them in. I have start to Use Chucks method with hairdryer.  But ends............. How bad I was on lining up the but ends. The reason was actually laziness. From now I will put much more attention to this. The result is below.
Now it is time to continue with the stern and tree nailing....

I also have to announce that I will start on a new project as you can see below.
  

 
I already build the new DeAgostini Vasa but since I also have the Billing boats Vasa so think I it is a very good idea to build them at the same time so people here can see the differences between the kits. I am planing to build the Billing Vasa strait from the box as a relaxed build since I will put all effort on the DeAgsotini Vasa since it is so much better in details. The Billing Vasa will also have the "old" painting scheme since i like the colours:)
 
Jörgen
 
 
 

MK0301 Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship Kit 1/72
 
Wooden ship model kit
 
Recommended Age Range 8+
 
 
Article: MK0301
Scale: 1/72
The dimensions of the finished model (the ship) -  35,0 * 15,0 * 30,0 cm / 13.78 x 5.9 x 11.81 in (Length x width x height, cm)
Dimensions of the box - 38 * 24,0 * 5,5 (Length x width x height, cm)
 
Museum Quality. 2016 World Ship-modelling Championship Winner - Gold Medal
Complete Do it Yourself assembly kit
Ship wooden kit features:
· All hull planking and details are laser cut
· Double planking
· The marked bevel on frames
· A special hull design that compensates the materials deformation
· Detailed photo instruction and drawings
· Patterns and cloth for the sail sewing. You can also buy ready-made sails: MK0301-S Sails for Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship model kit, scale 1/72
Made in Russia, shipped from US fast.
Instructions are in Russian and English, include many pictures!
 

I took a picture of test for you
 

Hello there
finally I can update my build log ...
 
here is some pictures from installing the patterns process 
I can say that edge of the second pattern at the top doesn't mach withe edge of the firs one (at the bottom )
also at the curve of the bow section ....
same thing between the third pattern to the second
so I found the way to know how much you need to trim from the pattern to get full touch between the edges 
I have install the first pattern temporarily and then I was putting the secunde patterned I let hem lie on the edge of the first pattern
then I marked the  edge of the secunde pattern at the bottom of the first pattern :
like in this picture :

after marking I took the first pattern out and trimed the edge to the line that I have marked....
I did the same thing at the second pattern by using the third one (at the third the problem was at the bow section but it was a big problem to make them touch ....)
 
here its some pictures of the process :

I finished laying the second layer of the plating. It's been over a year of work.
 

 
 
 

Hi Pat, I don't actually recall having seen here anything that matches your description. If you find it, I would be keen to see it too ...
 
In the meantime, below is a small clamping device or sub-table I made for the milling machine a few years ago. It basically consist of an aluminium bar with a T-slot milled along one of the sides. This T-slot allows to clamp two holding-down fingers anywere along the table. Two shorter fingers act as stop for the part, while it is worked on. A plate at the back of the block acts as fulcrum for the holding-down fingers and can be raised and lowered accordingly. The whole things screws down onto the milling machine table with two screws and T-Nuts.
 

 

 
Incidentally, talking about holding-down fingers: you may want to google for 'finger plate' and will find various more or less clever devices for holding small parts. E.g. here:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1434.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=13004
 

Finished up the middle rail bits at the mainmast. The stern section is also done. - finally.
Here are a couple of mainmast shots. Now onto the foremast.
 
Regards,
 

Getting rady to the next stage 
I saw some plank clampers at the internet also i saw them in some build logs ...
but after talking with Moxis i decide not to buy the due the expensive price and also i heard that the metal clamp its very week ...
 
so i decide to make my clampers by my self ...
i got the idea for the screws from Moxis , 
for the handles i have use the head of the push pins , i took the pins out and drilled the holl with 2 mm dia 
the screws that i bought was 1.8 mm by the Moxis advice 
and after cutting the head of the screws i have glue them to the handle by epoxy glue ,
 
for the clamp i have cut drill and bend aluminum 
 
here is some pictures:
The final product :
 
 
 
 
 
 

Question: how did you actually tie your knots ? I use tweezers in each hand and start from the middle, not from the forward or rear shroud. This reduces the risk of pulling the shrouds together.
 
If a piece of cardboard with the shroud/ratline layout behind the shrouds is not enough as guidance, you may think of several strips of cardboard with notches in the distance of shrouds distributed along the shrouds as spacers. This prevents them from being pulled together.
 
If your knots don't stay tight, you probably used the wrong or too thick material for the ratlines. Actually looking at your pictures, I think this is the problem. The ratlines are much, much thinner than the shrouds. In real life they may have perhaps a diameter of 1 cm or so. In real life as on the model: a thinner line holds better on the shroud, but it cannot be too thin, otherwise it would cut too much into the (bare) feet of the sailors and of course it has to carry their weight.

The Pegasus is very tempting for me. I would even swallow the shipment cost and horrible Swedish customs if you do this one...

The Pegasus is very tempting for me. I would even swallow the shipment cost and horrible Swedish customs if you do this one...

Gee ... you could be already finished with the rattling-down without this gadget, just using a piece of cardboard behind the already installed shrouds on which you have drawn lines with the distance of the ratlines ...

Having read through the posts, I still don’t really see the advantage of this jig over doing it prototype-fashion on the model. I could foresee a lot of fiddling an pulling in order to get the assembly into the right shape at the right place.
For stabilising things I would rather use clear varnish than wood glue, as it allows to correct errors with a drop of solvent.

My respect, colleagues!
We are pleased to be on this forum in a new status.
I am very glad that there will be a joint project between our companies and development teams.
I hope it will be interesting and productive!
 
Eugeny Mikhailov,
kits developer
"MasterKorabel"

Przepraszam za słaby angielski
 
Vasa DeAgostini, skala 1:65, wydanie polskie.
 
Obecnie pracuję nad etapem 50 - 55 kolekcji.
 
Kilka zdjęć z historii budowy modelu.