puckotred

Hello all, it was a while ago. 
I haven't build on the Sherbourne for some time because life get in the way. I have also done some other project like this:)
 

 
However I have now start to build on the Sherbourne again and I have just finished the planking. It is far from perfect but since this build is to learn the different technics. Lessons that I have learned is:
Use more time and make better planing and drawings at the beginning. Now that I have done it the first time I know how the outcome will be so the planing will be easier. Plank in smaller belts so it is possible to correct the lines between the belts. Not afraid to use a sharp knife to correct planks that already is glued in place. Start with the garboard strake and plank upwards since I don't like at all the fit in plank between other planks. You will then always have a plank to press against.  Be careful with needles since they make mark in the planks even if you put them at the side of the plank to hold it in positioning. Be better to use rabbet and this most in the steam. Be very carefully with superglue since in "paint" the planks dark. Try to avoid water as much as possible when bending planks. It takes to long time to dry them before it is possible to glue them in. I have start to Use Chucks method with hairdryer.  But ends............. How bad I was on lining up the but ends. The reason was actually laziness. From now I will put much more attention to this. The result is below.
Now it is time to continue with the stern and tree nailing....

I also have to announce that I will start on a new project as you can see below.
  

 
I already build the new DeAgostini Vasa but since I also have the Billing boats Vasa so think I it is a very good idea to build them at the same time so people here can see the differences between the kits. I am planing to build the Billing Vasa strait from the box as a relaxed build since I will put all effort on the DeAgsotini Vasa since it is so much better in details. The Billing Vasa will also have the "old" painting scheme since i like the colours:)
 
Jörgen
 
 
 

MK0301 Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship Kit 1/72
 
Wooden ship model kit
 
Recommended Age Range 8+
 
 
Article: MK0301
Scale: 1/72
The dimensions of the finished model (the ship) -  35,0 * 15,0 * 30,0 cm / 13.78 x 5.9 x 11.81 in (Length x width x height, cm)
Dimensions of the box - 38 * 24,0 * 5,5 (Length x width x height, cm)
 
Museum Quality. 2016 World Ship-modelling Championship Winner - Gold Medal
Complete Do it Yourself assembly kit
Ship wooden kit features:
· All hull planking and details are laser cut
· Double planking
· The marked bevel on frames
· A special hull design that compensates the materials deformation
· Detailed photo instruction and drawings
· Patterns and cloth for the sail sewing. You can also buy ready-made sails: MK0301-S Sails for Deck-Boat St.Gabriel Wooden ship model kit, scale 1/72
Made in Russia, shipped from US fast.
Instructions are in Russian and English, include many pictures!
 

I took a picture of test for you
 

Hello there
finally I can update my build log ...
 
here is some pictures from installing the patterns process 
I can say that edge of the second pattern at the top doesn't mach withe edge of the firs one (at the bottom )
also at the curve of the bow section ....
same thing between the third pattern to the second
so I found the way to know how much you need to trim from the pattern to get full touch between the edges 
I have install the first pattern temporarily and then I was putting the secunde patterned I let hem lie on the edge of the first pattern
then I marked the  edge of the secunde pattern at the bottom of the first pattern :
like in this picture :

after marking I took the first pattern out and trimed the edge to the line that I have marked....
I did the same thing at the second pattern by using the third one (at the third the problem was at the bow section but it was a big problem to make them touch ....)
 
here its some pictures of the process :

I finished laying the second layer of the plating. It's been over a year of work.
 

 
 
 

Hi Pat, I don't actually recall having seen here anything that matches your description. If you find it, I would be keen to see it too ...
 
In the meantime, below is a small clamping device or sub-table I made for the milling machine a few years ago. It basically consist of an aluminium bar with a T-slot milled along one of the sides. This T-slot allows to clamp two holding-down fingers anywere along the table. Two shorter fingers act as stop for the part, while it is worked on. A plate at the back of the block acts as fulcrum for the holding-down fingers and can be raised and lowered accordingly. The whole things screws down onto the milling machine table with two screws and T-Nuts.
 

 

 
Incidentally, talking about holding-down fingers: you may want to google for 'finger plate' and will find various more or less clever devices for holding small parts. E.g. here:
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=1434.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=13004
 

Finished up the middle rail bits at the mainmast. The stern section is also done. - finally.
Here are a couple of mainmast shots. Now onto the foremast.
 
Regards,
 

Getting rady to the next stage 
I saw some plank clampers at the internet also i saw them in some build logs ...
but after talking with Moxis i decide not to buy the due the expensive price and also i heard that the metal clamp its very week ...
 
so i decide to make my clampers by my self ...
i got the idea for the screws from Moxis , 
for the handles i have use the head of the push pins , i took the pins out and drilled the holl with 2 mm dia 
the screws that i bought was 1.8 mm by the Moxis advice 
and after cutting the head of the screws i have glue them to the handle by epoxy glue ,
 
for the clamp i have cut drill and bend aluminum 
 
here is some pictures:
The final product :
 
 
 
 
 
 

Question: how did you actually tie your knots ? I use tweezers in each hand and start from the middle, not from the forward or rear shroud. This reduces the risk of pulling the shrouds together.
 
If a piece of cardboard with the shroud/ratline layout behind the shrouds is not enough as guidance, you may think of several strips of cardboard with notches in the distance of shrouds distributed along the shrouds as spacers. This prevents them from being pulled together.
 
If your knots don't stay tight, you probably used the wrong or too thick material for the ratlines. Actually looking at your pictures, I think this is the problem. The ratlines are much, much thinner than the shrouds. In real life they may have perhaps a diameter of 1 cm or so. In real life as on the model: a thinner line holds better on the shroud, but it cannot be too thin, otherwise it would cut too much into the (bare) feet of the sailors and of course it has to carry their weight.

The Pegasus is very tempting for me. I would even swallow the shipment cost and horrible Swedish customs if you do this one...

The Pegasus is very tempting for me. I would even swallow the shipment cost and horrible Swedish customs if you do this one...

Gee ... you could be already finished with the rattling-down without this gadget, just using a piece of cardboard behind the already installed shrouds on which you have drawn lines with the distance of the ratlines ...

Having read through the posts, I still don’t really see the advantage of this jig over doing it prototype-fashion on the model. I could foresee a lot of fiddling an pulling in order to get the assembly into the right shape at the right place.
For stabilising things I would rather use clear varnish than wood glue, as it allows to correct errors with a drop of solvent.

My respect, colleagues!
We are pleased to be on this forum in a new status.
I am very glad that there will be a joint project between our companies and development teams.
I hope it will be interesting and productive!
 
Eugeny Mikhailov,
kits developer
"MasterKorabel"

Przepraszam za słaby angielski
 
Vasa DeAgostini, skala 1:65, wydanie polskie.
 
Obecnie pracuję nad etapem 50 - 55 kolekcji.
 
Kilka zdjęć z historii budowy modelu.
 
 
 


 










 

I'm still building, but have not found the time to update the log...

I'm still building, but have not found the time to update the log...

Brigantine Phoenix + lifeboat  Wooden ship Kit 1/72
 
art. MK0401P
Brand Master Korabel

Complete Do it Yourself assembly kit.
Museum Quality. 2016 World Ship-modelling Championship Winner - Gold Medal
MK0401P - Lifeboat is included.
Ship wooden kit features:
· All hull planking and details are laser cut
· Double planking
· The marked bevel on frames
· A special hull design that compensates the materials deformation
· Detailed photo instruction and drawings
· Patterns and cloth for the sail sewing. You can also buy ready-made sails: MK0401-S Sails for Brigantine Phoenix Wooden Kit 1/72
Instructions are in Russian and English, include many pictures!
 













































































































































































































 
 
 

Thanks Peter, Everthing is according to instructions apart from sequence. No arch sculptures yet...

Nirvana and Peter: As I have worked there I know them, (or knew them, they just reorganized the consortium and though the existence of the ship is secured, she will never sail again.)  but I have no room or tools to do a scratch build. And I can NOT afford The Falmouth, way out of my economic situation. 
But, I have a lot of other stuff to build 
 
I have now finished planking the stern
 
  
 
The arching parts are too thick as you pointed out Peter, But it is layers of ply and hullplanks + the second layer planks. I could sand it thinner from the inside, but that's the ply layer that holds the first layer planks (and also I'm too lazy to do that ) and sanding on the outside would change the form of the hull. Hopefully the decorations will hide it a little.

 
Sanding, paint and a shitload of decorations will probably hide the little gaps etc.

Actually, I don't have an engineering background (I am a geologist) and no training as a mechanic ... I believe, that anyone, who can drill a hole into a piece of (ply)wood with reasonable accuracy and can saw-off a piece of steel or brass rod can build a rope-walk. It may not look as professional and may not last for decades, but it would serve the purpose.
 
Another route would be through an old Meccano set (or whatever construction set may have been available in your country). I vaguely remember that there was even an example in the booklet for my German Märklin construction set.

I'd go for Proxxon. less noise, better quality.

I'd go for Proxxon. less noise, better quality.

I'd go for Proxxon. less noise, better quality.