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catopower

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About catopower

  • Birthday 06/17/1962

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  1. I didn't say it was banned because it was Chinese. Perhaps I should have just said it was likely one of the banned manufacturers, but I think 90% are from China. If I'm wrong, that's great news!
  2. Yes, definitely NOT a Mamoli kit for various reasons. Gregory, unfortunately, that looks like an exact match – look at the mounted figure atop the stem. I say unfortunately, because this is likely a banned Chinese kit. Should have been obvious from the start looking at the Chinese characters on the plans.
  3. I think it's kind of funny how this thread has gone from the OP asking about his pin vise, to recommendations of drill presses. Personally, like Chuck, I am very happy using a pin vise. My preferred variety is the swivel headed type. Quality varies with these things. My go to is one sold by ModelCraft Tools. I have a few of them, with each set up with a common drill bit size, so I can swap pin vises without having to change the drill bits all the time. In any case, I have no trouble using drill bits as small as #80. I have drill presses, and there is a place for the power tools, but nothing replaces the ease of use of a basic pin vise.
  4. As I recall, the old AL instructions were pretty generic. All the build info is derived from the plan sheets.
  5. @TJM I see there are two versions of QCAD available. Are you using the regular QCAD Professional or is the QCAD/CAM version?
  6. Hello TJM, I'm enjoying reading your posts here. I recently splurged on an XTool S1 40watt myself and trying to learn what I can about doing laser-cutting with it. I'm very impressed by what you've accomplished so far. What's your source for the 3mm MDF?
  7. Thanks for posting this, Tim. Having just gotten myself a new laser-cutter, I find your project very inspiring.
  8. I think it's neither amateurish nor unrealistic if you are representing a specific reason for a ship doing that since, as John (Jim Lad) pointed out that it was done in reality. That said, it's such an unusual configuration that it will look really odd to most people, and you'll probably have to constantly explain your model to people. That might get annoying after a bit.
  9. Nothing new to report, except that I removed the jib boom for now. This allows me to put the model under a nice dust cover. Kind of looks like a good way to display a hull model...
  10. Druxey, were I to build another HMS Wolf kit, and it's not entirely out of the realm of possibility, considering how much I've enjoyed this build, I would go with a modification of the tiller, deleting the existing ships wheel, or possibly relocating it on the quarter deck, as you'd suggested. Perhaps another intrepid ship modeler will take on this amazing build with such a modification? One can only hope.
  11. Hi Tom, You're working to make a "natural" finish, which is more decorative in nature, so I think it's about your color choices and workability, rather than scale accuracy. Walnut has a darker tone that most people find pleasing. I've used cherry on ship models, but the color isn't stable, it will darken a lot over time and has a lot of red in it. I like how my cherry planked model looks, but I tend to like the look of walnut better. But, that's just me. Go with what you like or your client likes. If you do go with walnut, I'd suggest you consider using the kit wood first and cover it with thin strips of walnut. It'll be easier to work.
  12. Thank you Druxey! Of course, I'm just going by the kit instructions and plans. Are they accurate? I don't know. Do you think they might have been more like Speedwell in being steered by a curved tiller? In many respects, the ship certainly resembles Speedwell. I think it would be easy enough to modify the kit to do away with the wheel, except for the rectangular outline on the deck marking the position of the platform.
  13. First use of the paper blocks are now in place on the model, and this also marks the first rigging to on as well. Just finished rigging the ship's wheel and tying down the binnacle box as well. It began with stropping a bunch of the smallest of the blocks provided in the kit: 2mm singles. I also had to make a bunch of eyebolts as small as I could. I pre-rigged the blocks to the eyebolts, and then mounted them into place. In the process, I kept finding items on the deck and on the hull that I'd knocked loose. So, I had to do a bunch of small repairs. Fortunately, it was nothing serious, and the rigging of the ship's wheel and tiller is now done and I can move on. This has been weighing on my mind for quite some time, so I'm very happy to have this step behind me. Afterwards, I went ahead and tied down the binnacle box, after doing a little paint touch up on that first.
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