catopower

I love and hate maintaining build logs... It's great to be able to share, but I work on projects off and on, and I often disappear from the build log for YEARS. Like this V108 Torpedo Boat, I started this build nearly 5 years ago. People follow along, and then I have other things to deal with and end up setting the project aside. I kind of lost interest for a while, as I'm still primarily a wooden-ship modeler, and also not much into steel-hulled ships. But, recently, a couple fellow ship modelers have been working on steel-hulled ship projects, and I've been discussing issues with them. So, it got me back to thinking about things like the V108 project and even seeing what kind of a job I could do with a detailed plastic kit with lots of PE and possibly resin after-market items. Yesterday, I pulled out my V108 model from storage(!), and decided I needed to do a little paper modeling in between other projects. Part of the reason for this, is that the other work I'm doing right now, requires me to be out in the garage workshop, and it was just too hot in there this week. A paper model, I can just work on in the living room. First, here are some photos that I took after my last post, which was...uh... close to 5 years ago... Then, yesterday, I pulled the model out of storage, dusted it off, but couldn't find what I did with the part sheets and instructions. Fortunately, this is a downloaded kit, so I found the files on my computer, and just reprinted them all. I was a little concerned about variation in color, after all, I don't even recall if I had the same printer at that time. But, I think I did, as the colors look spot on. So, I spent a little time re-familiarizing myself with the model, and what needs to be done next. The obvious step was to do a little work on the superstructure, so I went ahead, just to make some progress... The basic superstructure was a nice re-intro to this model, as it's a major part, with no fiddly small parts to worry about, though I think I'll go ahead and mount the hatch that's outlined in the forward part of the superstructure below. Then, I forgot what you call these little connecting tabs that help to hold assemblies together. I glued them down to the deck first, as this should keep the part from causing the superstructure to creep up from paper "bendi-ness". Test fitting showed that some of the white of the deck piece shows a little, so I ended up painting areas where the white seemed to show. Managed to paint part of those tabs as well, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Finally, the superstructure is shown in test-fit. That's why it's not entirely flush with the deck yet. But, it will be, once I glue it into place. On the other side, you can see some of the white still visible. I'll touch this up before the superstructure gets glued into place. Now, I'm probably going to build in a slightly different order than Chris does in his tutorial. I want to get some of the little, flat pieces, like those #58 parts, which I think must be hatches for coal bunkers here(?), done, as I think I'll have more room to get them on properly without other stuff on the model. Also, as this is not a waterline model, I figured I'd better work on the underwater details, as I'll need to hold the model inverted as I do. That won't work too well with lots of stuff on the deck. Since the model is on a stand already, this should keep the screws, and all those related parts, mostly safe from harm.

Beautiful job on this model Dan! Or should I say "neighbor"? I live just up the road from you in Pleasant Hill. I look forward to seeing more of your work.

I'm curious about the use of the word "patent". Could the word just be used to show that the actual lifeboat was of a patented design, which might suggest that some serious thought was put into its design? I've seen the term used for in reference to a particular type of windlass. It seemed that it was kind of a selling point of the item.

Hi Howard and Ollivia, Sorry, I wouldn't know how to tell from the age of the wood. I would just be guessing. As far as museum accession numbers, each museum would have it's own set of numbers, and you'd probably have to check with each museum individually about the availability of a searchable database. If it is a former museum model, I have no idea how you would determine which museum it might have come from.

A double-ender like that looks to me like a lifeboat. I tend to agree with John (Jim Lad) that the number looks like a museum catalog number, and I think this would be the most likely possibility. I agree it's a very nice model. Interior? Over the ages things like that have habit of disappearing. Perhaps someone thought they would repair it, but it never happened (can't say that's never happened to me...).

Returning to this old topic, I'd add that the Mysticque was an actual French ship. Her particular type is called a Polacca Xebec. The ship appears in the 1880's publication, Le Souvenirs de Marine, by Admiral Paris. I don't know the type well enough, but I believe it's a European modification of the Xebec type. I think a true Xebec would be more likely used by the Barbary pirates, but that's just my opinion. I have nothing to back that up. However, I do recall there is another option for a Xebec, which is one made by Mantua.

Hi Melissa, I'm enjoying watching your Statenjacht build. So much so, that I've been eyeing the Kolderstok kits that are on the shelf in Ages of Sail's warehouse for the past couple weeks. I'm trying NOT to spend any more money, or to add another kit to the stack in my closet. But, your work looks so good, it's making it difficult.

I love early American pilot boats, and that is an EXCELLENT book. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Hi rudybob, First, I agree with Allan that since this is a computer controlled laser-cutting process, replacement parts aren't going to be any better than what you got in the kit. Then, I went and looked at the kit I have in my closet, did a photocopy of the wood sheet, cut out the stem and overlaid it on the inner keel piece. To me, it basically looks like what you have, with the slight gap in the parts. That said, I don't really see a problem with the build. The gap isn't ideal, but it's going to be hidden by the planking. The stem piece is design to sit in a certain way so that the scarf joint in the keel lines up with it. So, I'd just make sure that whatever you end up doing, that you don't rotate the stem out of position any, as you'll then have to modify the scarf joint a little. As for ME customer service, though I do some work for Ages of Sail and ME is a direct competitor, I've always found their parts department to be very good. In my personal experience, they've just been poor at communicating. But, as pointed out earlier, they did just relocate again, so maybe that's created a bit of a work backlog.

Hello Floyd-Rw, congratulations on a great start to your build. I've grown rather interested in the Spanish warships of this period. I have a build of the Spanish 74-gun ship Montañés that I've been tinkering with. Also an OcCre kit, or based on it anyway. Looks like good progress!

An old topic, but not forgotten. And, not a dumb question at all. I've never built this kit before, but I'm familiar with their instructions and laser-cut parts. From what markjay posted, I can see that the hull planking is laser-cut. In fact, it looks like three or four laser-cut sheets that have the planks cut into it. Hope this is okay to do. These are markjay's photos, posted above. I downloaded them so I could repost them here: The red arrows point to what appears to be the laser-cut hull sheets. On some wester-style ships, Woody Joe provides strips for planking the hull. But, for these more unusual types, including the Japanese vessels, they're pretty consistent with providing laser-cut sheets. But, I say this, not having built this model. And, I don't own the kit either – I know, it's a shock... 😉

I've ordered from GPM many times successfully. Then, a fellow modeler from my ship model club tried it, based on my recommendation, and had all sorts of trouble. It appears they have switched to newer payment system, and it's much harder for us in the U.S. to navigate it successfully 🤨

I have used both single ply sheet wood as well as plywood to scratch build the hull. If you have bulkhead extensions, i.e. timberheads, then I'd stick with plywood, you'll have fewer problems with breakage. Otherwise, single ply sheet wood should be fine.

Nice kit review James. I'm glad to see AL back at it under the new ownership. I know that some people are concerned about instructions on DVD. I don't have a DVD drive on my main computers either, but downloading the 500-page pdf shouldn't take very long for most of us. My download was just about one minute. Viewing it doesn't require top hardware either. My computer is 9 years old, has 16GB of RAM, and it flies through the pages without a hitch. However, DVD drives are very slow, and accessing the pdf on it could be a lot less enjoyable unless you copy the file to your hard drive and view it from there. Viewing the file where your doing your building might be more of an issue for some.

This is an old topic, but I would just add a word of caution. Make sure that when microwaving wood that the towel wrapping is wet and that you monitor the process very closely if you're not familiar with it. I know of a guy in a ship model club I belong to tried this method, kept at it, because the wood wasn't flexible. He let the towel dry out, the wood dried out, the microwave oven caught fire and was destroyed in the process. Cost him a few hundred dollars. Now, this is clearly user error and nothing really to do with heating the wood really. But, just something to be aware of.

Welcome Tim. This is the Panart/Mantua kit. It's 1/78 scale. I recognize it from the details, particularly the base. It's this kit: https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/mantua/panart/ma738-panart-victory-wooden-ship-kit.html But, as Mark said, it basically needs to be rigged, and just about any Victory rigging plans should work.

BikerMart, I think you'll generally find that Billing Boats kits, if not blessed with great instructions, seem to have very accurate shape. And, while it's no Caldercraft Victory kit, I was just recently looking over the instructions for the Billing Boats HMS Victory kit, and compared to other kits, it looks like it's pretty buildable, and should result in a very nice model. But, good luck whichever way you choose to go. I'm sure you'll get lots of great support here!

I think kit instructions are difficult to write, and time consuming to develop, which is why most kits have terrible instructions. Particularly in older kits, I think, where you were expected to figure out a lot of things yourself. Looks like you've got a good attitude and a good handle on it though. I didn't even notice that you had mentioned that you have the full Corel HMS Victory kit too. Well, that will certainly be a challenge. But, it looks like you have all the right references for it!

Hi Steve, I love your approach to this build. You're really doing a great job and giving me a whole new respect for how well a kit like this can be done. It's interesting that yours is a 40 year old kit, I think I read in one of your earlier posts. I think if you opened one of these kits today, it would look exactly the same. Your build is really coming along, and I'm enjoying following the work.

The plywood in the OcCre kits is definitely fragile when dry, so definitely make sure to dampen the bulwarks piece. The problem is that you don't want to soak it too long or the layers will start to separate. I'd test soak a piece of the plywood scrap in the kit to see how much you can bend it after just a few minutes of soaking, as well as how long you can safely soak it before the plywood layer separate. As Jeff pointed out, it's mostly the bow stern section that needs the dampening/soaking. You can probably just do that in the sink, or wrap the piece with a wet cloth. First, make sure you bevel the frames a little more than you show in the photo. Also, the instructions indicate that bow needs to be filed down to a width of 2mm as well as the skeg – aft end of the keel.

Hi Anthony, I'm curious what you used for the HMS Blandford, as you say it was your first scratch project. A number of suggestions have already been made here. But, one comment I have is that Jeff Staudt's HMS Granado cross-section plans would be an interesting change from the other cross-sections, as the Granado was a bomb vessel. Also, I've noted that he incorporates some simplification, which should then be an easier build than some of the others mentioned here, if that's an issue.

Yeah, I've seen too many questionable kits, both in paper and in wood on ebay. These days, the only things I'll use ebay for is if I feel like getting materials or tools when I can't find them elsewhere. Well, that and used computers. Pretty hard to pirate that stuff! But, thanks for the original posting Chris. I'd actually looked at a couple kits I was familiar with and considered buying off of ebay. This is a good reminder not to do that. The particular ones are easy enough to get from gpm.pl where I've purchased many things before. Plus, when you go to legit seller's websites, you often discover so much other cool stuff you just gotta buy, including kits as well as after-market accessories, etc.

I'm just speculating. What do I know???

Small update for anyone interested! You might have noticed that the kit doors are made so that they work as boarding ramps. While I've seen doors on other atakebune models and painting like this, it's not the way the museum model's doors work. On that model, and in the original artwork, they are outward-opening double doors, with a metal bracket on the inside for barring the doors shut. For boarding, I believe there would be ramps dropped down from inside. The one good thing about this arrangement is that a counter attack might be prevented from boarding the atakebune by shoving the ramps all the way out or cutting them loose. If the ramps and the doors are one in the same, you have to re-raise the ramps to close up these openings. Assuming these actually have ropes for lowering/raising the ramps, if there ropes are cut, there's no way to close up the big hole in the side. And, yes, in any case, the sculling oars in front of the doors have to be taken in before I can do anything. If you look at my earlier model photos, you can see how the doors looked before I did any work to them. Below is an update photo I took before modifying the doors. But, note that I've added most of the remaining horizontal trim on the yagura, or box structure. The very bottom rail has to be left off for now, as I have a modification to make to it at the stern. But, the upper 3 rails were added, giving the model is little more detail in depth, like the museum model. I started modifying the doors on one side. But, I can't fix them into place yet, until I decide if I should leave any of these open. The problem is that the interior does not at all look correct. To begin with, the sculling oars are not full oars, they're only the lower portion that sticks out. I could make a few of them full-sized, but then I'd have to come up with a way to properly rig them with ropes, called hayao. By the way, these doors aren't fixed into place. I just have them taped into place from the back side. I'll eventually need to add something to represent hinges. And, I'll think about leaving one open door. More later.

At that period, I think most likely color is black for the mast tops, doublings, bowsprit.