catopower

Gregory, I don't think you're cluttering up this log at all. I'm mostly just sharing about the model I received and how it's getting finished over time. I'm not demonstrating any special techniques or trying to illustrate anything special, other than to show that I'm actually doing something! 😀 Thanks for sharing the link to Lloyd McCaffery's model. Such beautiful work!

Here's some of the first work I did on the model. I decided to add a little more color to the model, so I painted the bulwarks the same shade of red I used on my Charles royal yacht. I'm doing the same with the gun carriages. Part of the reason is that the bulwarks wood was a bit splintery, and there were issues apparently when the builder was cutting the round gun ports. Also, I didn't like the way that Mamoli had the caprails built up from layers of strip wood. It must have made construction easier, but the visible layers of wood seemed distracting, so I went ahead and painted those as well as the moldings around the decorative section of the bulwarks and the channels. I considered using a strip of light colored wood over the moldings and maybe the edge of the caprail, but decided not to, at least not at this time. I rebuilt the chimney that's just behind the windlass, added the decorative hawse pieces at the bow and drilled the hawse holes. The gun ports were a bit of a challenge, as some of them didn't line up correctly. Another reason I chose to paint the bulwarks, so I could hide any corrections. The round ports on one side had only been started, so they were too small. But, a bit of filing opened them up and adjusted their heights and alignment. Decided that the model was far enough along to safely mount it. I didn't want to use the included stand. Those things are usually too flimsy and don't provide a means to really secure the model to the base. I just used the classic brass pedestals. That little deck structure hasn't been permanently attached yet. I want to add the guns before I permanently fix it to the deck. Oh, and on that and on the stern cabin, I added acetate for the windows, which were left open by the original builder. I think I just used canopy glue to secure them into place. Yes, before you comment on it, that gap between the rudder and stern post is... well, it's too large. After repairing the rudder and the rudder irons, I left it the way it was originally built. If it bothers me too much, I may just clip off the stuff in between, fake the hinges, and pin the rudder to the hull. Just haven't felt the need yet. Lastly, I saw some photos of other Yacht Mary builds and really like the splash of color painted on some of their transoms. So, I went ahead and added some color to this one. I'm not sure if I can handle painting any better detail, but I may try. Just not really ready for it yet. I considered doing more, but I really just wanted it to have a little bit of color. Any more, and I might feel the need to paint too many other details as well. Again, this is not intended to be an "accurized", and I'm trying not to undo too much of what the original builder did. But, as far as kit-built models go. It is started to look rather nice, and I'm happy about that.

Oh, those little birds!

Gregory, thanks for that link, some beautiful photos of that model there. I wish I knew more about the small details of Dutch ships. I know there are various resources to draw from, but it seems you really have to dig around and research. A little more involved than I want for finishing this model. I'll hang onto my unstated Yacht Mary kit for now (though I'm trying to thin out my model kit stash), and maybe someday I'll work on my own model from the start and incorporate those details.

Hey everyone. My apologies for the extended break. I ended up with plans to finish up a model that was started by a ship modeler who passed away a couple years. It's the Yacht Mary, and with the completion of my Charles Royal Yacht, I figured I could wrap this one up pretty quickly. It's come along pretty well, and I'm hoping to finish it in the next month or two. It's my intention to begin resuming my HMS Wolf build immediately after that, or even a bit before the Mary is done. It won't be that long, as I'm just starting work on the Mary's sails now: Back soon!

Those following my HMS Wolf card model build may be wondering where I disappeared to. So this is what I've been doing for the past couple months. A couple years ago, I bought a Mantua/Sergal Sovereign of the Seas kit, unstated, at an estate sale. I guess the sellers were so happy to move the kit that they threw in a partially started Amati Prince (yes, the rare, and huge Amati Prince in the wooden box), and this partially completed Yacht Mary. Having recently completed Woody Joe's Charles Royal Yacht, and having so enjoying modeling a royal yacht, I was interested in working on this new acquisition. But, the model left my possession for another modeler to work on. But, over time, I thought about how the original builder, a Mr. Richard Fletcher who lived up near Placerville, CA, was building this as a wedding present. I didn't know the man or the details of who it was supposed to be fore, but I didn't know that the builder's widow really wanted to know that her late husband's models were being continued. Later on, finding out that the modeler I had passed this onto was turning into some random fantasy ship, I decided to try to rescue it, with the intent of finishing the model and presenting it back to the Mr. Fletcher's widow. So, with my new plans, I managed to get the model back, and start working on it. My intent is not to make a perfect model of the Mary, nor a perfect model of a Dutch yacht. Rather, it's to essentially take Richard Fletcher's work and to continue the model to completion without changing too much. That's not to say I would avoid ANY "corrections" to the build, but mostly to avoid changing the nature of the model more than I need to. While I don't have any photos of the model after it came back into my possession, I did have to clean up some alterations that were done to it, such as the removal of a "poop deck" railing that was installed for the fantasy model, and a couple other minor things that had been broken since I saw it last. Aside from that, I noticed the original builder had some trouble with a few things and left a big gap just between the transom and the gallery windows casting. So, I did a few small modifications to make the model look better. By the way, I've always been interested in modeling the Yacht Mary, and even have an unstarted, original Mamoli kit, which gave me access to the original, full-sized kit plans, which I found helpful. I think my interest in the model dates back to seeing the late Jean Eckert's build in the old Seaways' Ships in Scale magazine. She, by the way, started and ran the South Bay Model Shipwrights club that I'm a member of still today. I'll post a series of photos later to show the progress to date. I'm hoping to complete the model by June. So, this will not be a long and detailed build log. Mostly just wanted to be able to share about the work. Note: I will be getting back to my HMS Wolf build shortly!

Does anybody know when gun port wriggles appeared? These are the wooden drip diverters that kept water from running down the hull into the gunports. I occurred to me today that I've only ever seen them on HMS Victory and models of her. Anybody know?

The only thing in that example is that they planked the inside of the bulwarks INSTEAD of adding the timberheads. I would agree with Snug Harbor Johnny's recommendation, but as RossR says, make sure your cap rail is wide enough to cover the planks and the timberheads.

The one thing that comes to mind for me regarding deck vs grating at the bow, is that if a wave hits the bow, a grating will allow any water to drop down to the bottom of the hull. If there is a planked deck at the bow, the water will likely pour down the back of the trousers of the oarsman sitting at the front. Depending, of course, on the layout of the thwarts, etc.

I will say that I do like the idea of the gallery banner showing just one image from an album. I often feel like when I post a bunch of photos, right after another builder has posted theirs, that I'm kind of unintentionally blasting them off the banner before others may get a chance to notice their work. But, I'm not sure if that's a feasible function. As for videos and links, I too am not particularly fond of them and find them boring. I would go so far as to say that I avoid build videos like the plague. But, that's just me. I know many people love build videos.

Thanks Druxey! Actually those stays are just temporary to hold the masts steady while I work on the shrouds. They'll come off and be replaced with real stays, which is why these are white. In earlier photos, you can see the hearts that you're talking about that the forestay will later get rigged to. As for the mainstay, I don't know how accurate it is, but I'll be following the provided plans, which have it running to a heart that you can see located on the foremast. I'm glad you're keeping an eye on my work!

Today, I finished serving the shrouds. Boy, it's been a long time since I've done this kind of work. I felt like I was having to re-learn a lot, and they took me a while to finish.

Hi Chris, your Brig Phoenix is looking great. Too bad the MK kits are pretty well gone at the moment. It would make a nice companion to HMS Wolf, being similar size and the same scale. I have to say, I'm rather enjoying working at 1/72 scale. Jeff, it's for the new optional "Serve-Writer" attachment. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble getting it to interface with my Mac. Must be a PC-only thing... 😁 brunnels, thanks for the nice comments. It requires a lighter touch. But, it's also a lot sturdier than most people think. Still, the whole reason I've been "upgrading" the chainplates is so I don't tear the channels off the model while trying to rig it. I've built two other single-masted paper sailing ship models without any rigging problems. This is the first with two masts. Will I be successful? Stay tuned!

No real progress yet. Been working too much. But, I did manage to try threading those 2mm blocks. Worked out fine using 0.1mm Amati tan rigging line, as well as some of BenD's (RopesOfScale) 0.25mm black cotton line. Of course, in all cases, I had to use a dab of thin CA and trimmed the end to a point to thread it through. Clearly, I didn't wax any line here. Also managed to complete assembly of my Syren Serv-O-Matic. I can start working on the shrouds and stays now!

I have to agree that the un-even holes are hardly noticeable on a model, at least when viewed by others. But, at the same time, when I put them on my models, I as the builder notice, and that matters a lot to me. Those mass produced wooden ones are pretty standard. It's really hard to find ones that are proper, with evenly spaced holes. I'd be very curious as to the production process. Anyway, the most perfect deadeyes are Chuck's and BlueJacket's pewter ones. BlueJacket even has them with grooves for all the holes except the one where the knot goes. So they're upper deadeyes are different from the lower ones. But, I'm very happy with the 3D printed ones I received from Chuck recently. Not just the holes, but overall appearance and shape.

Anyone who has been following this log shouldn't get their hopes up that I'm resurrecting this project... at least not yet. However, just in case, and also to help rate a new product from Shipyard, I got myself their new 3D printed cannon barrels set for HMS Mercury. The set, which should be identical to includes 24x 9pdr short guns, 6x 6pdr short guns, 4x 18pdr carronades, and 14x 1/2pdr swivels. Here they are in the same order... I'm amazed at how fine those handles and yokes are on the swivel guns, and that they're not broken (yet)! The only issue I've run across is that the trunion on one side of one of the 6pdr guns was broken off. The piece was still in the bag. Might be too tiny to hang onto to make the repair. Other than that, the guns looked good. Anyway, I thought someone building this or one of the other Shipyard 1/96 scale frigate models, or their HMS Victory model, might be interested. I'll definitely use these if I do end up continuing with this model. And, I do have reasons to try picking it up again, so who knows?

Managed to finish these preliminary chainplates yesterday. Hopefully, this will make the rigging of the shrouds easier, which is coming soon. Meanwhile, I just recieved some of Chuck's 2mm 3D printed blocks to use for the gun tackles. Wow, are these things tiny! I have some of Chuck's original 2mm pear wood blocks, and the size difference is more than I'd expected, at least visually. Wooden blocks on the left, 3D printed on the right. I measured the wooden blocks and they come out to 2.13mm long, the 3D printed ones are 1.92mm. So, they really are very close. The 3D printed ones are a little shorter and noticeably narrow, so they SEEM so much tinier. I guess the test will be to see what a gun tackle and train tackle look like, rigged. This assumes, of course, that I can actually add them to already placed cannons... 🤔

With yesterdays meetings behind me, I'm turning my energies back to HMS Wolf. The new deadeyes are all stropped now, and I'm trying to rig up "faux" chainplates, which I'm expecting I will cover with some kit provided paper parts that LOOK like chainplates, but have no strength to them. What I'm installing are chainplates that don't look right, but should add strength to support the shrouds. After these are all done, I'll face them with the kit pieces. And, if that doesn't look right, I may try to come up with something that makes these pieces LOOK like they're bolted to the hull. Not perfect, but at least it's progress! I'll add that the amount of support these provide are pretty limited on this model, as many of the wires can only penetrate into the hull a very short distance, as they'll are above deck level. Getting the length right for these short wire pieces is somewhat painstaking work. Were this wood, I could apply a lot more pressure in forming these links.

Hi Jeff, Vallejo isn't the greatest location, but I think it's better than it was when I first moved to the area in 2000. The museum, however, has been very accommodating, and works out very well for us. Yesterday, we returned to the museum for the first time in... maybe 7 years(!). It worked out very nicely and they even have a bigger table now, which was great, as it gave us more room to spread out and share our model progress (or lack!). We're going to try to alternate our meetings between the museum and the Mare Island Brewing Company's Coal Shed taproom, which is a great location for beer and bar food. I think I mentioned before that one of our members has done some model work for one of the owners, so we're appreciated there as well. We were kind of hoping the Park Service would stick to their timetable and move the historic ships from Hyde Street Pier at SF's Fisherman's Wharf, to there, where they're supposed to be docked while the pier is being rebuilt.

Thanks for the encouragement, Jeff! I have to admit, I tend to have purist leanings, but with card models, I'm not good enough to stick to them. Anyway, these laser cut Shipyard kits provide wood for the spars, acetate for the windows, resin for the figurehead and some decorations, cloth for the sails, and turned brass barrels for the cannons and swivel guns. So, it's not really a purist's kit anyway. Plus, these deadeyes from Chuck look so darned good! I just received the 4mm deadeyes and, like all blocks and deadeyes I get, one size seems too big, and another seems too small. But, measured against the plans, the 4mm deadeyes are a good match, so I guess that's the way I'll go. I'll get to stropping now and post pics afterwards. In the meantime, I decided to upgrade my serving tools with a new Siren Serve-O-Matic (my Christmas present to me). I'm just now cleaning up the wood parts and assembling it now. I'll make use of this with the Wolf's shrouds and stays. Been a long time since I've done rope serving. I skipped it on some of my more recent builds. Progress on the Wolf is slowed up right now, as I'm trying to get some other things ready for a ship model meeting of the Mare Island Ship Modelers at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum next week. This marks the resurrection of the group and its official return to the museum. However, I did start to get started on the foot ropes. I know some modelers just use wire for the stirrups, but I think they tend to look too perfect. So, I prefer making them from rigging line. More after the meeting next weekend...

All the blocks have been added to the lower, topsail, and topgallant yards. 60 blocks in all. Still have the gaff, jib boom , and spritsail yards to do. Also still have the brace pendants and foot ropes to rig. But, I think I need a short break first...

And, what's a build log without some photos to share? Here's what I've been doing most recently... It seemed like a good time to get those mast cleats mounted. Very tiny laser-cut cardboard. I glued them with Aleene's tacky glue. When adjusted and in the right place, I reinforced with some thick CA, then a drop of thin CA to stiffen up the part itself. 10 cleats mounted this way. And then there are the blocks I've been adding to the yards. Topgallants are done, as is the main topsail yard. Lots more to do...

Hi Chuck, thanks for checking out my build log and for your comments on the model. I'm going to wait on the new 4mm deadeyes before I continue with the chainplates and shrouds. I want to see if they look better on the model. I guess it's just a matter of opinion at this point, as to which deadeye size to use, the 4mm or 5mm, since as I mentioned, the kit's supplied "5mm" deadeyes actually come out to 4.5mm. You absolutely have me sold on the quality of your new blocks – they are amazingly looking! I ordered a sample with my last order from you. I still have a supply of your old pear wood blocks, so I'm using those here, though I think I have only just enough of the smaller sizes to finish the Wolf. After that, I'll be buying your resin blocks. I still want say that I would love to see 3.5mm blocks in your lineup. I'm building more in 1/72 scale and so many of the paper models are either 1/96 or 1/100 scale. At these scales, the jump from 3mm to 4mm blocks seems pretty noticeable to me, and I'd love to be able to buy an in-between size.

Hey vossiewulf, it's been a long time since I've done any serving on any model. I'll definitely post my results. Probably in a week or two. Chuck mostly seems to be building at 1/4" scale and larger, so heavier thread would make more sense. I've seen the serving you've been doing on your blog – Excellent job you're doing with your build, by the way – and it's looks amazing. Are you using CA glue to secure the ends of the served area? I'll try the fly-tying thread, but I expect I'll only be serving the shrouds and stays. Is there a certain brand and size you're using? I've got Uni-Thread 6/0 here.

Today, I check Chuck's store and it's open. I was able to see that he does carry 4mm deadeyes, so I went ahead and ordered some. I guess I will wait until they arrive before I decide if I will use the 4mm or 5mm deadeyes on this model, but I'm happy to do so. I'm still sanding off the laser-char before I assemble my Serve-O-Matic, which is just as well. I plan on using fly-tying line to serve the shrouds. I haven't done this in a long time and discovered I can't find any in my supplies. The store I used to get it from is gone now, so I went ahead and ordered some online. Won't be here until next week. Meanwhile, there was plenty of work adding blocks to the yards. Also, I need to go ahead and finish the topgallant masts, so I still have lots to work on here.