catopower

My favorite is Eins (ist die einsamste Zahl)... But, kind of a downer song for the party boat.

No doubt playing the oldies by Steppenwolf and Drei Hund Nacht... 😁

Hi Chuck, I didn't realize that the Wütender Hund was a party boat! Although The Crow's Nest does sound like a good name for a bar...

Welcome Hank! That's quite a circle of people you've known, pretty much the same people I've spent a ship modeling age admiring, though I've only met one of them, Clay Feldman. But, I did have a nice phone conversation with Henry Bridenbecker WAY back when, who was extremely gracious and helpful to me. Also had the honor of meeting Ed Marple, who's carving work and ship modeling skills were phenomenal and on display at the Channel Islands Maritime Museum, where our ever-rescheduled NRG conference will someday, hopefully, take place! I look forward to swapping ship modeling ideas with you here!

Just been in touch with a guy on papermodelers.com that has returned to paper modeling after a hiatus. When I built my Shipyard 1/96 scale paper model of HMS Alert, I ran across his build of Shipyard's 1/72 scale version, which has all the parts laser-cut, plus brass cannon barrels, etc. His model was so cleanly built, it was an inspiration to see. He just posted his pics of that model again. Makes me want to build that kit, but I already built almost the exact same thing, just smaller. Doris's builds that GrandpaPhil mentions are almost too good to be true. And, of course both Doris and Ab are scratch modelers, a fact that kind of floors me too.

Hi Don, that's a good question. I have it because I use it for paper modeling. For wood modeling I use mostly Original Titebond or Titebond II. I THINK Aleene's is a little on the soft side when dry, but I've never really tried it on wood.

Yeah, since the model is an open boat, Mantua used a method to have nice planking inside and outside, with the middle layer to help keep the shell rigid. I think the planking style they're showing is mostly to keep beginning modelers from trying to force planks into curves. It's one thing when you do that with an enclosed plank-on-bulkhead hull, but when you're working on something with essentially no internal frames, an inexperienced modeler can end up with a real mess. The method shown may require a lot more tapering so you don't end up with gaps – Gaps/Fillers are the last thing you want when you can't hide the inside planking. You really need to taper the planks to fit. Then again, there's probably enough stuff inside the boat that nobody will ever notice that the interior planking is not authentic. With the outer layer, it's probably easier to make the planking look more correct. Additional Thought: I just remembered... The planks aren't supposed to be attached to the frames. So, there's no easy way to make sure they conform to the shape of the bulkheads unless the are laid very naturally across them, without any edge bends or twists at all. The planks initially are only glued to adjacent planks, and If you try anything fancy, I think you'll end up with some weird bulges. I'm pretty sure that's why Mantua shows to plank this way.

Ooooo! An undiscovered kit! Jean-Pierre appears to be correct about Gunze Sangyo being the maker. The poster indicated that it was an old kit he had gotten a long time ago and wondered if it was from the 1980s. With all those details, I would think it's much later, but he didn't specify when he'd purchased it. I too love this era of ships where we see steam taking over from sail. Too bad to discover this is an old out-of-production kit. Little chance of finding one to build. I'll ask a couple ship modelers in Japan if they know anything about it. Looks like a pretty advanced kit – nice details, and it has you build up the ships boats from molds. I think Imai, and certainly Woody Joe, provides you with plastic boats.

I just finished Shipyard's Hanse Kogge Bremen 1380 card model kit. It's the type with all the parts provided, laser cut. Paper models are nice in that they don't cost as much to make, and as you say, they don't require many tools. They also don't need as much room to work on and there's not much mess with them. I like my wooden models, but I have found paper models to be a fun and interesting alternative. That's a nice shopping site – appears to be in Germany. I've purchased from gpm.pl, which is in Poland, which seems to have a similar paper model selection. Also, Shipyard kits can be purchased through Cornwall Model Boats in the UK, as well as Ages of Sail in the US.

But, their heights would remain unchanged!

Hello Salty Dog, That classic basswood deck really does have a nice look to it, doesn't it? Your progress looks very good. But, I think you should post in a build log, even if it's mid-build, it doesn't matter. It's just a place to check in on your build now and again – much better than trying to look for it in the General Ship Models Discussion section. And, I'd love to see the occasional update.

Wouldn't it also depend on what direction you're trying to travel, in relation to the wind?

Or the capstan is for all of the above, and any other thing that comes up that requires more power than can be mustered from just pulling on a rope?

I agree that it looks good. But, my thought was from the cartoon The Jetsons, where George Jetson worked for Spacely Space Sprockets and the rival company was called Cogswell Cogs 🙂 And, when I read your first sentence, where you wrote "front porch", maybe because it's your Woody Dog, I thought I read "front pooch"! About those repairs, they're completely unnoticeable.

Your fix looks very good Chuck! And, I like the decorative trim on that stern castle. Looks very nicely done. Sorry I can't comment on applying the wipe-on poly over oil based stain. Have you tried it yet?

That damaged keel wouldn't have happened if they left the keel in its sheet, rather than removing it from the sheet and packing it in the box. I guess it's a weight saving measure. Plus, as they shrink wrap all the laser cut parts together, it should be fairly well protected. But, clearly, that's not always the case.

Yes!

Dsmith20639, It helps a lot if you try to understand how a block works, which is what I think people are really getting at as they try to help you here. The second hole is not exactly what I would call redundant, though, yes, you will only run a line through one hole or the other. For one thing, a block with two holes looks more like a real block than ones with only one hole. Also, having only one hole can result in you stropping the block upside down – something I see a lot in beginner's models, and it looks silly once you realize what you're looking at (But, I can't bring myself to point out the error in people's models). A block with two holes helps to prevents you from making that error since it's the same, whichever way you orient the block.

I think it's partly because they have to make 12 special packages with instructions tailored to them. I guess they also look at the total subscription cost as the regular price, where they give you a nice discount if you just buy them all at once. Saves them all the trouble of keeping track of you and packing each month. Plus, I imagine they must have to worry about having a bunch of miscellaneous left over stuff from people who cancel early. Everyone gets pack 1, but how many must cancel after about pack 2 or 3 when they realize how much they're spending on a kit they'll never finish? Rob, As far as I know OcCre is about the only company that offers these "buy as you need them" packs, and they are only for the kits I listed. The only other company is Mantua, which offers their big Titanic model in 5 packs (actually, it's the only way it's sold), and the Albatross, which is their small Baltimore clipper kit. Though, I can't for the life of me figure out why they bother to make that one available in parts. By the way, the OcCre Packs are only about 6-8% more expensive than the full kit. The biggest problem now, is that shipping from Europe has become a lot more expensive, so that drives the costs way up. Maybe by the time you're ready, shipping options will open up again and bring the cost back down a bit. Anyway, only you know what's best for you and your situation, so good luck with whatever you do!

With the completion of my Shipyard card model of the Bremen cog, I'm ready to get back to my Woody Joe Kitamaebune model. First, here are some update photos of my Tonegawa Takasebune... There's still a little more rigging to go, plus it not quite full of cargo. But, it's very close. Meanwhile, I'm hoping to apply what I've learned about making the sail for this model to the Kitamaebune. Unfortunately, I'm about to start yet another attempt at making the Kitamaebune's sails. I've lost count of how many attempts this has been. This is the fourth, I think. The last set probably would have been okay, but I discovered I'd made the sail panels too narrow. Not sure how that happened, as I thought I had everything measure out. To quote the famous Bullwinkle J. Moose "This time, for sure!"

This is interesting. Every time I've checked Model-Space over the past several months, they've been out of stock on just about everything. Nice to see some of their part kit subscriptions available again.

Hi Robp1025, I don't know of anyone who has a payment plan. The closest is to use a credit card and pay that off over time. However, OcCre makes a few big kits that you can buy in parts. They're not as ornate as the San Felipe, but you can buy the "packs", as they call them, as you need them. They have the Spanish 74s San Ildefonso and Montañes, which were both at Trafalgar, the 3-decker Santisima Trinidad, which was also at Trafalgar, and the 50-gun ship Nuestra Señora del Pilar, an early 18th century Spanish treasure ship. All of these are big kits. Hope that helps.

Skipper1947, Unfortunately, the kind of subject you're looking at is more along the lines of what RC kit manufacturer produce. Those tend to have ABS plastic or fiberglass hulls. But, they often use some nice wood and brass parts for the details. The steam yacht Medea comes to mind. Dean's Marine makes a kit. Another is the Amati kit of the 1930s yacht Dorade. Or maybe Mantua's kit of the yacht Bruma. Don't know if that's any help. But these are the only kits I can think of that are even close to what you might be looking for.

I don't like that option as there's always some ugly guy on the other side looking at me instead of the model.

Thanks, Chuck. I guess it's only fair. since your build inspired me to get to work on mine. When the NRG conference finally does happen at the Channel Islands Maritime Museum, maybe we will both have cogs on display?