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Bedford

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Everything posted by Bedford

  1. I'm trying to decide if I like this idea for a display stand. I want something that isn't flash so it doesn't detract from the model and I want it tall enough that I can display the boat with the centre board deployed. I came up with this stand which is inspired by the stand I built the full size boat on. The oars can be stowed on the stand below the boat.
  2. Can someone tell the four oarsmen of the apocalypse their oars are ready! I scraped the back of the leather to thin it down and it seemed to work reasonably well, made a clamp jig with all the holes in it for the lacing and tapped a brass nail through each hole to create the collar then applied glue to each end of the cord so I could poke it through the holes and lace them up.
  3. Just a thought, what about using shellac to glue the pins in, it's cheap, easy to clean up with mentholated spirits AND you could dissolve the joint with metho if you need to remove the shackle.
  4. Time for the oars, first I cut the spruce to 7x7mm at 1 foot, yes I'm throwing in an imperial measurement because the oars are 8 feet long so at 1:8 scale... 1 foot! I beveled off the corners and sanded down until I had 5mm diameter shafts. Next was the blades and the shafts are too thin and flexible to plane 80mm long flats for the blades to attach to so I cut more spruce 7x 16x 80mm then had to find a way to accurately drill a 5mm hole through them. Answer, remember that the lathe headstock has a 3mt taper as does the mill so place the mill chuck in the headstock, insert about 5mm of the 5mm drill bit to leave enough length to go through the 80mm blade then pack up the blade blanks in the tool post and feed into the drill. Glue blanks onto shafts then a little planing and sanding.....
  5. There's some very nice work going on there and I'm really enjoying the difference between your traditional type of boat and my modern glued lapstrake design.
  6. What can I say mate, it's a tough gig but someones got to do it ! 😊
  7. Thanks Gary Yes I love rowing her and can normally maintain 3.6 knots if the tide isn't against me, 4 knots with a tide. Still a lot to learn about sailing but I love it. One of the putt putt skippers came up to me after the parade on Sunday to have a better look at the boat and commented on how well it rode in the water and that it just "looked right" out on the water. I was motoring with the Torqeedo outboard and had 20 litres of water up forward for ballast so it's good to know I seem to have the ballast correct.
  8. The chain plates and stem head fitting are now done, the chain plates were cut from 1mm brass plate while the stem head fitting was revealed via the mill from a solid brass off cut from a part I made for the real boat
  9. Keith, my eye bolts are 1/8" O.D. I cut the various O.D's for the pin, base and eye then drove a "V" into the stock at either end of the eye to give the rough shape then just used a small file with the lathe running to round it out. After the milling and drilling I filed it more to shape using the drilled hole as a sight guide. After cutting it off the bar I held it in a pin vice to finish the shaping.
  10. Thanks Michael, on the rowlocks/oarlocks, I had the full sized boat in the Davistown putt putt and wooden boat regatta on the weekend and while maneuvering for the start of the grand parade the master of the heritage ferry Protex called out that he loved the rowlocks and where did I get them?
  11. I've now made some eye bolts for her, I used the same manufacturing process as the rowlocks but these are much smaller. The eyes in the transom breast hooks are what I attach the mainsheet horse to when sailing and I attach steering blocks to them when motoring.
  12. That, my friend, is going straight into the "tips and tricks" file, brilliant!
  13. Well I was right, now that I've worked out how to make the rowlocks it became quicker, 1 hour each but they still need a touch of sanding
  14. At $20 an hour, and that's cheap here, that'll be $960 for the rowlocks and $240 for the bases!
  15. Thanks Keith, I was unaware of those but a quick google and I think I'll be buying some!
  16. That took 4 hours Mark and it isn't polished yet! Hopefully now that I've worked out the process the remaining three will be quicker to make. When I sail I tend to row out then set sail so I sail with forward rowlocks in the stowed position and the aft ones in the working position so I might display the model that way because I intend to put the sailing rig on her.
  17. That sounds interesting but I'm crewing Waratah that day. I am however taking the boat to the Davistown regatta this weekend
  18. Thanks, I've now pulled the pins and reduced the size of the heads so it looks better. The pics made them look huge!
  19. Looking good John, working at ANMM is a bit of a two edged sword isn't it.
  20. The rowlock bases are made and fitted, it's moments like this I really wish I had much smaller and more accurate machining capabilities. I was able to do some on the machine thankfully but the final shaping was done by hand and even at this scale the bases are too small to drill all the screw holes and fit brass nails as screws but after fitting them I realised I could have just drilled small holes and put the shaft of the pin in to represent the screw heads. Too late now. I drilled a 1.5mm hole down through a piece of 3mm brass then used the Dremel cutting wheel in the mill to open the hole up then using the same wheel I cut that edge off the stock and into 6mm lengths for the pivot holes which were then soldered to two layers of 0.25mm brass plate bent at right angles then soldered together to give the 0.5mm thickness required. Next onto the rowlocks themselves
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