Bedford
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Everything posted by Bedford
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Yes I an saying DO NOT attach the dead-eyes and chain plates yet because you have no accurate way of getting the correct angles. Not sure what you mean by "racks" -
Robbyn, Robbyn, Robbyn....................... I am sure I have said this before but it has to look right to you. If someone else looks at it they will be overwhelmed with all the detail there is to see and all the fine detail work you do will not really be noticed anyway. You do it for YOU. when it comes to doing the chain plates keep in mind they need to continue in the line of the shroud through the shroud table and onto the hull, don't mount them vertically. To this end I don't attach the chain plates until I have the masts stepped and standing.Then run a shroud line from its point of attachment on the mast, down past its deadeye location on the shroud table and to the side of the hull. This will give you the correct point of attachment to the hull to get your angles right, every one will be different. I am sure there are other ways to get it right but this is how I started doing it long before the interweb thingy and it works so well and is so simple, Now, tools...... You NEED to get yourself a razor plane or mini plane whose blade is an old fashioned razor blade. It has myriad uses and you will find it invaluable if you know how to use a plane, ie with the grain instead of against. You will find it a great tool for tapering the masts and yards, start by planing the last 20% and turn the dowell as you go, go around two times making sure the second time takes off the edges left by the previous cut. Then start again planing the last 40% making sure you get good shavings all the way, then do 60% and so on, you will end up with a nice taper which can easily be sanded to a good smooth taper..
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Love the grating, well done and I love the third pic above, the whole weather deck from the bow. Looks great!
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Catfalls is another term. If you think of them as cats paws and the lines dropping from them as the cats claws you will see where the name comes from. Now, stop dreaming and get back to work !
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Yes Robbyn you will learn a lot as you go, as I have said, I have the CWMorgan and the plans and instructions are to say the least - some form of plan and or instruction. I will tackle her one day though and I will do what I do which is make her to a form that looks right to me. There are so many beautiful ships to build though aren't there? Steve
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Now that we have run amok with your thread Robbyn I will just wish you were here and let you get back to your build, it is coming along well and the gun ports look great. Steve
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Did you drill through the beak and dowell it yet Robbyn?
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I fear we will find this more and more as manufacturers find ways to cut costs by using generic parts across the range on a "that'll do" basis. We had this discussion with the rudder hinges earlier. I wonder if there is one manufacturer who will stay true to scale, they would cost more but be worth it. Steve
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Glad it worked Robbyn. I mentioned "flexible beach" that's what they call it at MS here in Aus. Next time you order timber get some, probably about 5mm x 1.5mm, sorry, you guys who ditched imperial rule centuries ago but still keep imperial measurements will have to convert that yourselves These are pics of my first model tall ship "Schooner for Port Jackson" from the supplier I mentioned above. The pics are not great because she is behind glass but if you look between the lanyards or ropes that attach the shroud lines to the hull you will see a piece of timber on the bulwalk bent down to follow a step in the sides. This is flexible beach and I bent it with the domestic iron by just soaking it in warm water for about 10 minutes then placing it flat on the table with the iron on it, back and forth a little with the iron then just hold it down with the iron and bend the plank upward around the edge of the sole plate of the iron, move the iron a little and bend some more etc to get the appropriate radius. It was so easy to bend and work with. Like I said, first ship, first real tight wood bend and dead easy, first go was perfect. This is excellent timber for bending. Keep it seperate from any other beach you have though because it looks the same.
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I have no idea how hot a curling iron gets but I would imagine not very. From the look of your profile pic you wouldn't have any other use for one though
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Have you made any progress with this Robbyn ? You should find as you make a few models there will be timber left over from each, never throw this out as I am sure you would appreciate. It becomes very handy in subsequent builds. For future reference there is a type of "beach" that is very flexible and although a bit dearer than most woods it is well worth it and I get it from MS as required. In this instance though if you do not have a planking iron, and I have never seen the need, get it nice and hot and wet and lay it flat on a suitable surface and iron it with your domestic steam iron. Rub it over the piece once or twice then working from one end rub it forward about two inches and then back to the start and hold it down firmly as a clamp for the wood and start bending the plank, moving the iron back and forth between bending efforts. When you have a bit of bend holding in the timber move the iron over it again and keep working your way forward. You will find this easier if you don't cut the timber to length first as you will have more to work with and hold on to and the process takes practice to become accurate with so cutting after bending is the best option. I start from the tightest radius end and work my way out so I need about two inches infront of the bend to allow holding the plank down under the iron. Hope this makes sense. Steve
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Nice progress Robbyn, looking good. Yes it is always better to inset doors and the like so they don't just look stuck on. Good on you for going above and beyond. Steve
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Robbyn, mail order is your friend. There is a place here called Modellers Shipyard and their website lists all the timbers and dimensions they have available and they post every day, I am sure there would be a few such places there and they advertise on this website. I would also imagine that it would be a fair bit cheaper in the U.S. than here too. You will be able to order whatever individual pieces your heart desires. You won't find the timbers you want locally but online there will be plenty. Steve
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Wow, you must have appreciated it to thank me twice
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Hey Robbyn I don't know if this would be helpfull or not but I posted consctruction pics of the replica Endeavour made in Perth in 1993, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1207-endeavour-replica-construction-pics/ If nothing else you can see just how woefully inaccurate the rudder hinges supplied with a kit are. It might help with the line of external timbers though. Steve
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Yeah, this is one of the benefits of not having a dog !! I am not sure but a good model ship supplier that sells ships decorations separately for the scratch builder might be your best bet for a replacement. Steve
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I have been tossing around the colour scheme for mine as I normally don't paint my ships, I like the beauty of the timber. The Caroline will be special and needs to look it's best and colour will be required to bring out the full beauty of the ship. I have thought I would do pretty much what you have done but was toying with leaving the white off below the water line. Having seen yours I think that will work nicely.
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I second the motion, looking good now.
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Ah, you have truly entered the ranks of the ship modeller, this is confirmed in two ways. 1 You were not happy with an aspect of the kit so you decided to make the parts yourself. 2 You are even dreaming of the solutions, good, the craft is well established in your mind. Seriously though, well done, I think the new doors will look much better.
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I have all this to look forward to............... Thanks for the excellent insight, looking very good. Steve
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Yes, if they went straight down but I was thinking linear in line with the existing top and bottom fixing points like a normal staircase. Thanks mtaylor, I was thinking that must be the reason, the French do like their style.
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I was thinking the same thing, the stairs would be much easier to negotiate if they were linear.
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I saw the replica Endeavour being built in Perth, Western Australia several years ago and the view up the centre towards the bow took me straight back to that. It is so very much alike. Love this build. Steve
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You have my attention yet again, as for critical comment being wanted too, I have not yet seen anything I could possibly be critical of. Steve
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