Bedford
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Everything posted by Bedford
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Nice progress Robbyn, looking good. Yes it is always better to inset doors and the like so they don't just look stuck on. Good on you for going above and beyond. Steve -
Robbyn, mail order is your friend. There is a place here called Modellers Shipyard and their website lists all the timbers and dimensions they have available and they post every day, I am sure there would be a few such places there and they advertise on this website. I would also imagine that it would be a fair bit cheaper in the U.S. than here too. You will be able to order whatever individual pieces your heart desires. You won't find the timbers you want locally but online there will be plenty. Steve
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Wow, you must have appreciated it to thank me twice
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Hey Robbyn I don't know if this would be helpfull or not but I posted consctruction pics of the replica Endeavour made in Perth in 1993, http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1207-endeavour-replica-construction-pics/ If nothing else you can see just how woefully inaccurate the rudder hinges supplied with a kit are. It might help with the line of external timbers though. Steve
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Yeah, this is one of the benefits of not having a dog !! I am not sure but a good model ship supplier that sells ships decorations separately for the scratch builder might be your best bet for a replacement. Steve
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I have been tossing around the colour scheme for mine as I normally don't paint my ships, I like the beauty of the timber. The Caroline will be special and needs to look it's best and colour will be required to bring out the full beauty of the ship. I have thought I would do pretty much what you have done but was toying with leaving the white off below the water line. Having seen yours I think that will work nicely.
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I second the motion, looking good now.
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Ah, you have truly entered the ranks of the ship modeller, this is confirmed in two ways. 1 You were not happy with an aspect of the kit so you decided to make the parts yourself. 2 You are even dreaming of the solutions, good, the craft is well established in your mind. Seriously though, well done, I think the new doors will look much better.
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I have all this to look forward to............... Thanks for the excellent insight, looking very good. Steve
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Yes, if they went straight down but I was thinking linear in line with the existing top and bottom fixing points like a normal staircase. Thanks mtaylor, I was thinking that must be the reason, the French do like their style.
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I was thinking the same thing, the stairs would be much easier to negotiate if they were linear.
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I saw the replica Endeavour being built in Perth, Western Australia several years ago and the view up the centre towards the bow took me straight back to that. It is so very much alike. Love this build. Steve
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You have my attention yet again, as for critical comment being wanted too, I have not yet seen anything I could possibly be critical of. Steve
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Yeah Robbyn, forums like this can be very helpful and comforting. Especially when you realise that we have ALL done something like that. What did Thomas Edison say when trying to invent the light bulb? "I did not fail 600 times, I discovered 600 ways not to make a light bulb" You have adopted the right attitude and are smart enough to learn from this.. The Schooner For Port Jackson was my first and I had no forum and no-one I knew to turn to. My ex can attest to the power of my self control because it came within milliseconds of becoming a flying boat on many occasions Steve
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Always look at new posts here with eagerness and never fail to be impressed. Can you give me an idea of the size, take a photo with something we would all recognise for comparison or just tell me how tall the cabin doors are? Thanks Steve
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Hey Robbyn I know you have other things on your plate with those sneaky gun ports popping up in the wrong places but you owe me pics of the rudder hinges my dear. Not wishing to sound pushy or presumpuous of course. Steve
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To paraphrase a well known semi-pirate, "A craftsman always likes to know his help is appreciated" Can't wait to aee the pics Robbyn. Steve
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I might as well give up now, I will never be that good.
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Noted, thanks.
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Thanks Ilhan but I find the excellent pictorial record answers my questions pretty well. Steve
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As a result of Shazmira posting about badly formed and ill fitting rudder hinges I thought I would post my answer to the problem. First get one of these, it is a tile nipping tool designed to help shape ceramic tiles. I don't use brass rod for the hinge pin opting instead for brass nails supplied with the kit, cut to length and put into the hinge with the head at the top like most domestic hinges to stop the pin falling through. Then holding the hinge pin section of the hinge with the tool, note, I did not put the pin in for the pic. Push the tool and hinge down onto a hard edge wide enough to fill the throat of the hinge and while pushing against this crimp the hinge in around the pin. The pin should not get jammed because the brass will normally spring back just a bit. When the pin pocket is crimped in nicely you can rebend the throat of the hinge tightly around a metal or hard wood edge that is the same thickness as the stern post or rudder using a hard straight edge to bend with to get a clean fold. Note: if the brass is hard you can heat it until it is going red and leave to cool. This will soften it nicely but leave it discoloured, a touch of emery or steel wool will fix that easily.
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One more trick with the hinges to get them to fit better against the keel and rudder. The bend will always be rounded to some degree and it is hard to get perfect form on the hinge. File a bevel on the keel and rudder in the right place to correspond to the hinge, so the hinge will be able to sit in closer and it will cover the bevel so no-one will see it.
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You will find all kinds of handy tools in the most unexpected places. The trick is to be able to think outside the square and see the potential. As for your hinges, it is not for me to say they are good or not, that is entirely up to you. If you decide to try again - now you know how to soften the brass so do that first so you don't break it, not sure about the quenching, when I relaoded bullets that was the method for keeping the brass neck soft. Try it without quenching and see what happens. By the way, heating them will burn off the ca and let the old pin come out. Your use of wire cutters shows you are thinking outside the square, that is probably the way I did my first one.
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