-
Posts
526 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from EJ_L in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
I get it. Thanks!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from EJ_L in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Fabulous, as always!!! 😲
Isn't there a double strop on the right block D' of the tackle, you have shown on your drawing?
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Kusawa2000 in HMS Agamemnon by Kusawa2000 (Mike Draper) - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Slightly modified version
Everyone: Its done..... after 12 years of on again.. off again work, my HMS Agamemnon (Aggy) is finally completed. Im still waiting for a friend to make me a stand for it but the rigging is finally finished. Its bit surreal that I can say that but she no longer darken my shipyard but instead have a nice spot on a shelf in our living room.
Did a lot of "kit bashing" with her.. milled maple planks for the deck and hull, treenailed the deck, have full guns and carriages on the gun deck either than the dummy guns supplied with the kit, rigged the guns, made my own flag, and added a "few" sails (made by friend Wendy!). It was a great project. took a littl longer than planned but glad its done and I can now move onto my next project the HMS Winchelsea through Chuck Passaro's practicum. Definitely ready for a new project.
Enjoy the pics!
MIKE
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Stuntflyer in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1/4" scale
Another small update on chapter 11.
The lantern as seen here is removable from its support which was made from blackened 1/16 brass rod. The two 24ga wires that go from the lantern to the transom rail are omitted for the time being. I'm concerned about the lantern getting knocked about in transit, so I left it removable for now.
I started on the swivel stocks. The first four are now on the ship.
Mike
-
Dziadeczek reacted to Henke in HMS Agamemnon by Henke - Caldercraft - 1:64
And as always thanks for all likes. Here is another picture of the quarter deck now varnished.
Best regards
Henrik
-
Dziadeczek reacted to ted99 in Yamato by ted99 - FINISHED - Nichimo - 1:200 - PLASTIC
These are the "start" photos of this build. It'll take me a little time to figure out what the sequence of build should be, so we are all along for the ride.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
I get it. Thanks!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Fabulous, as always!!! 😲
Isn't there a double strop on the right block D' of the tackle, you have shown on your drawing?
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Keith Black in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
I get it. Thanks!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
I get it. Thanks!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Jack12477 in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Fabulous, as always!!! 😲
Isn't there a double strop on the right block D' of the tackle, you have shown on your drawing?
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from CDR_Ret in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Peter6172 in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Edwardkenway in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Keith Black in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Dave_E in New Member
Wow!
Your father must be a genius! Building such a yacht at the age of seven? Barely in the early grammar school years and already getting into such a task??? Unbelievable!!!
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from No Idea in Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
You'll have to shape this piece from a bigger piece of wood, if heat bending doesn't work.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
You'll have to shape this piece from a bigger piece of wood, if heat bending doesn't work.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Vlax in How to Taper Masts?
For a better controlled process, build yourself a simple jig. Get 2 paint mixing sticks (for free from Home Depot), cut them to appropriate lengths (slightly longer than the length of your mast) and glue to each on one side a strip of medium grade sand paper.
At one end of such stick glue short piece of wood (spacer) of same thickness as the top of your mast, and at the opposite end glue two other spacers as thick as the bottom diameter of your mast, leaving center hole empty. Glue both sticks together. Especially helpful if you fabricate many identical parts.
Clamp your jig to the worktable.
Insert one end of your dowel into a chuck of a handheld drill and place the opposite end of the dowel into this center hole of your jig. Start your drill and gently press it into your jig, until it goes all the way. It will be stopped by the smaller spacer at the other end. Voila!
I saw this concept in the Polish shipmodeling forum - one modeler was fabricating a few dozen oars for his model. You can see it here (scroll down the page half way to see appropriate pics).
http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=44911&p=57251&hilit=galera#p57251
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from Canute in What's wrong with Artesania Latina Constellation?
I have a question for our more knowledgeable members. What's the difference between a corvette and a sloop-of-war?
(I have a couple of old magazine articles, where they name the "Constellation" in Baltimore, as a sloop-of-war.)
As far as I know, these are two different names (classes) of ships for the same thing and they are used interchangeably.
I might be wrong on it, though.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in What's wrong with Artesania Latina Constellation?
I have a question for our more knowledgeable members. What's the difference between a corvette and a sloop-of-war?
(I have a couple of old magazine articles, where they name the "Constellation" in Baltimore, as a sloop-of-war.)
As far as I know, these are two different names (classes) of ships for the same thing and they are used interchangeably.
I might be wrong on it, though.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from catopower in Best result on a single-planked hull
I generally plank only once, am too lazy to double plank the same thing. What for, anyway?
After preliminary shaping (spiling) and heat prebending wetted planks off the model, I first place a plank dry (without glue) on the hull and make sure it fits there perfectly.
Then I apply small bead (drop) of glue (Titebond or white Elmer's glue) to the edges of all bulkheads where the plank will be laying on and a thin layer along one of its edges, and place it there.
I use ordinary tailor's steel pins and gently tap each one with a small jewelry hammer (3 or 4 taps will suffice) but not through the plank but rather along its lower edge, into the bulkhead. ( I plank from the wale down, towards the keel, one plank on each side) to keep it there while the glue dries. The pins exort enough pressure to keep the plank in place, tightly agains bulkheads.
That way, after the plank's glue dries, and I remove the pins, there will be NO sign (holes) from them.
Procede with each plank like this and, after pins removal, do the same with subsequent plank until you cover the entire hull.
Here is an old pic showing the process during the construction of my MS Rattlesnake model.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from mtaylor in Best result on a single-planked hull
I generally plank only once, am too lazy to double plank the same thing. What for, anyway?
After preliminary shaping (spiling) and heat prebending wetted planks off the model, I first place a plank dry (without glue) on the hull and make sure it fits there perfectly.
Then I apply small bead (drop) of glue (Titebond or white Elmer's glue) to the edges of all bulkheads where the plank will be laying on and a thin layer along one of its edges, and place it there.
I use ordinary tailor's steel pins and gently tap each one with a small jewelry hammer (3 or 4 taps will suffice) but not through the plank but rather along its lower edge, into the bulkhead. ( I plank from the wale down, towards the keel, one plank on each side) to keep it there while the glue dries. The pins exort enough pressure to keep the plank in place, tightly agains bulkheads.
That way, after the plank's glue dries, and I remove the pins, there will be NO sign (holes) from them.
Procede with each plank like this and, after pins removal, do the same with subsequent plank until you cover the entire hull.
Here is an old pic showing the process during the construction of my MS Rattlesnake model.
-
Dziadeczek got a reaction from CaptnBirdseye in Best result on a single-planked hull
I generally plank only once, am too lazy to double plank the same thing. What for, anyway?
After preliminary shaping (spiling) and heat prebending wetted planks off the model, I first place a plank dry (without glue) on the hull and make sure it fits there perfectly.
Then I apply small bead (drop) of glue (Titebond or white Elmer's glue) to the edges of all bulkheads where the plank will be laying on and a thin layer along one of its edges, and place it there.
I use ordinary tailor's steel pins and gently tap each one with a small jewelry hammer (3 or 4 taps will suffice) but not through the plank but rather along its lower edge, into the bulkhead. ( I plank from the wale down, towards the keel, one plank on each side) to keep it there while the glue dries. The pins exort enough pressure to keep the plank in place, tightly agains bulkheads.
That way, after the plank's glue dries, and I remove the pins, there will be NO sign (holes) from them.
Procede with each plank like this and, after pins removal, do the same with subsequent plank until you cover the entire hull.
Here is an old pic showing the process during the construction of my MS Rattlesnake model.