Dziadeczek

Fantastic workmanship!
I am intrigued by this "cannula" of yours. Can you, in a couple of sentences elaborate, how exactly you use it? I see that it is a medical needle of sorts, mounted in a wooden handle.
Do you pass its sharp end through the bight of the rope and then feed the end of your rope into the channel of this needle and finally pass this through the rope?
Or else?
Regards,
Thomas
 

Fantastic workmanship!
I am intrigued by this "cannula" of yours. Can you, in a couple of sentences elaborate, how exactly you use it? I see that it is a medical needle of sorts, mounted in a wooden handle.
Do you pass its sharp end through the bight of the rope and then feed the end of your rope into the channel of this needle and finally pass this through the rope?
Or else?
Regards,
Thomas
 

@albert
@mbp521
Hello,
thanks for your nice comments, and all the others for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Ratlines for the fore topmast shrouds - Enfléchures 
In the meantime, I have started working on the port side ratlines (ø 0.25 mm) of the fore topmast shrouds. These are already about three quarters made, as can be seen in the following pictures.

 

      
On the last picture I show again how the simplified splice for binding the ratlines to the outer shrouds is made step by step. For lifting and inserting the end of the rope twice between the strands, I use an appropriately prepared cannula, as already reported and shown.

 
The end of the chapter -ratlines- is within reach.
To be continued ...
 

Years ago I built my French 74 gun ship upside down, mounted in H. Hahn's building base, following his method (sort of). I remember, I had to add (draw) the remaining frames, since J. Boudriot only has shown in his books the so called, station frames. The hull turned out OK, not perfect though, but - for the first scratch built, Admiralty type model, - acceptable.
Right now I am starting to install the running rigging on it.
Thomas

For my French 74 g. ship, I built the transom of my longboat from individual horizontal planks, following J. Boudriot.

For my French 74 g. ship, I built the transom of my longboat from individual horizontal planks, following J. Boudriot.

For my French 74 g. ship, I built the transom of my longboat from individual horizontal planks, following J. Boudriot.

For my French 74 g. ship, I built the transom of my longboat from individual horizontal planks, following J. Boudriot.

Not even Ras(putin) could live for ever.

Slight degree of edge bending with heat of pre wetted planks is possible, so either side is OK for spiling, the top or the bottom.

Slight degree of edge bending with heat of pre wetted planks is possible, so either side is OK for spiling, the top or the bottom.

Slight degree of edge bending with heat of pre wetted planks is possible, so either side is OK for spiling, the top or the bottom.

Hi Javajohn ,
Since I built this model a long time ago, I don't remember now how long it took me to carve the transom. A few hours, at most. (I am a painfully slow modeler, I once knew a Japanese modeler, who would build three very intricate models in the time it took me to build one!)
 
Today I took a close up, macro pic of this transom. When I look at this pic, I think that it was rather a thin slice of boxwood I carved, instead of cherry - the color is more creamy/yellowish. The rest of the stern is cherry though.
I remember I made for this task a few tiny carving gouges, two from old discarded Dremel tips ground to the desired shape, and two or three from medical needles with their tips ground properly. You cannot buy such small gouges for this work anywhere, as far as I know!
Alltogether, this model is quite difficult and tricky to build, due to its small size. I remember they said that it was intended for an intermediate modeler, but I think that because of the size of tiny details and their delicate nature, it should be build by a more advanced modeler. One has to have a delicate touch and respect for the wood, plus very sharp tools...
PS: I just first noticed this glue blob oozing from the underneath of the lower left end of the transom;  the pic is much larger than the model, so it exaggerates details and imperfections...
Happy modeling!

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).

Masa, you did not align both rulers precisely - hence you have this discrepancy. Go ahead and ALIGN them again. I have a feeling that everything will be OK, judging by your photographs.

Hi All,
 
I previously made a post in the “Hull fittings” section of the forum on how I do the steps/ladders on the side of the hull, which you may have seen but I'll  link below and expand on later as some lessons learned from that changed how I did the remainder.
 
 
 
New Content.
 
After doing the section covered above and in the video, I found I needed to change the method for consistently setting the gap for the step distance from the hull as my usual method was too clumsy due to step location and the shape of the hull.
 
After a bit of brain storming I came up with and made a ‘setting’ tool made from half round Evergreen styrene strip.  I cut/scraped/sanded a recess into the end of one styrene strip.  Then gluing another strip to it left a slot in the end big enough for the 0.2mm wire steps shown above.
 
I needed to scallop the styrene on both sides of the gap so it fitted between the closely placed steps.  As the recess was made deeper than required I would install a step, ‘set it’ then sand the end of the tool back a bit and continue doing this until the correct depth of insertion was reached.
 

 
 
The process was then to insert all the steps roughly in place for a run of steps then use the ‘setting’ tool to push each step in to its final depth.  When the tool touches the hull, it is at the correct depth of 0.5mm (gap).  I would work down a section of steps before locking in place with glue.
 

 
 
Some photos of all 154 hull steps now fitted and glued in place.  Using the ‘setting’ tool was very quick and got a more consistent finish from the method used in the video.  I will paint them black once I install the horizontal hand rails that run along the sides of the hull.  
 

 

 
 
Cheers
Slog
 

Masa, you did not align both rulers precisely - hence you have this discrepancy. Go ahead and ALIGN them again. I have a feeling that everything will be OK, judging by your photographs.

Masa, you did not align both rulers precisely - hence you have this discrepancy. Go ahead and ALIGN them again. I have a feeling that everything will be OK, judging by your photographs.

Masa, you did not align both rulers precisely - hence you have this discrepancy. Go ahead and ALIGN them again. I have a feeling that everything will be OK, judging by your photographs.

If the bed of your lathe is too short for your masts/spars, turn them in sections, drill holes on both ends (also on the lathe) and insert short pegs there and connect them (wood glue) together. If both pieces are the same thickness, you won't see the connection.

Thank you so much Backer.. I thank everyone for the like..😇
 
Balcony railing glued..
 

 
During drying, I stuck a lion statue firmly..
 

 
..and began manufacturing the rudder..
 

 

 

 
Finished railing waxed, only a handrail..
 

 

 

 

 
 

You have to do the burning off rather quickly, passing your thread over the flame, otherwise you run a risk of burning away the thread itself, especially polyester which melts in heat easily.