rudybob Posted March 15, 2022 Share #1 Posted March 15, 2022 (edited) Or does it matter? I am working at the bow. I just don't know and ashamed to even ask Edited March 15, 2022 by rudybob typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlefever Posted March 16, 2022 Share #2 Posted March 16, 2022 You might try a search on spile. There are a number of pretty good discussions on the process around. Short answer, Both top and bottom sides will likely be tapered and curved (spiled) to get a good fit. Dave_E and rudybob 2 Quote My Current Project is the Pinky Schooner Dove Found here: Dove Build Log Previously built schooners: Benjamin Latham Latham's Seine Boat Prince de Neufchatel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dziadeczek Posted March 16, 2022 Share #3 Posted March 16, 2022 Slight degree of edge bending with heat of pre wetted planks is possible, so either side is OK for spiling, the top or the bottom. mtaylor, Dave_E and rudybob 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 16, 2022 Share #4 Posted March 16, 2022 Builder's choice on this. I've even seen some to "top" and "bottom". Dave_E and rudybob 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grsjax Posted March 16, 2022 Share #5 Posted March 16, 2022 This article on the NRG website covers the subject. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf mtaylor and rudybob 2 Quote My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted March 16, 2022 Share #6 Posted March 16, 2022 Rudybob: There's no shame in asking. There is lots of information on this site as well as folks to help you out. We've all been there! rudybob and mtaylor 2 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted March 16, 2022 Share #7 Posted March 16, 2022 The tutorials for spiling by David Antscherl or the heated edge bending by Chuck Pasarro show that the top and bottom curve. As to asking for help, after 40 plus years of scratching I still find myself asking what I feel are basic questions at times so fear not. If you cannot find an answer with doing your own research, MSW has always been a great place to get questions answered. Allan nehemiah, rudybob and mtaylor 3 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregory Posted March 16, 2022 Share #8 Posted March 16, 2022 (edited) Quote Do I spile the top(upside) of the plank or the bottom(downside) Both, in a sense. Normally you would be tracing the edge of a plank that is already in place, it could be the top or the bottom. David Antscherl's paper shows doing this with dividers. I use masking tape. The traced edge of the new plank should match the existing plank perfectly. You will then establish the shape of the other edge of the new plank based on the width desired. It may taper toward the bow or widen toward the stern. Once in place, the open edge will be traced for the next plank. When there is only enough space for one ( the final ) plank, then the edges of the planks above and below the space will be traced to create a plank that fills the space ( hopefully ) perfectly. With the edge bending method, I would establish the width and tapering of the plank before bending. Edited March 16, 2022 by Gregory mtaylor, rudybob and grsjax 3 Quote Luck is just another word for good preparation. —MICHAEL ROSE Current builds: Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans On Hold: HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett ) In the Gallery: Yacht Mary, Gretel, French Cannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudybob Posted March 16, 2022 Author Share #9 Posted March 16, 2022 (edited) Thanks all. I did searching, reading and testing prior to posting. I got to a point that no matter how long and hard I looked and thought I hit a wall on this. I was shaving the top...no reason I can't do both depending what my eyes tell me Edited March 16, 2022 by rudybob typo mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted March 16, 2022 Share #10 Posted March 16, 2022 For carvel, I have seen a snake-like spilling pattern on a wide board. For clinker I am thinking that only the edge that is overlapped is spilled? mtaylor 1 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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