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Q A's Revenge

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  1. my only comment is it is very difficult to cut out a curved frame or any part with curves with a table saw. Personally i never owned a hobby table saw and never missed having one. my first purchase was a 10 inch band saw you can cut curves pieces as well as resaw with it. Multi tasking.

    my very first planked hull i ripped the planking material down with a small bandsaw then planked up the hull. Yes some planks were thicker some thinner, they had saw makes on the surface. Step two i used a $2.98 pack of sand paper and sanded that hull smooth as glass. Could i have done any better with all the fancy power tools? nope only faster and to be honest i am in no hurry. I am an artisan not a machinist. 

    So do you need a table saw? not really

    I'm given to understand that In years gone by the Bandsaw was regarded as the "king of saws" for the very reasons you've mentioned. I would have thought a modest bandsaw would be far more useful.

  2.  

    Some people don't know it these days, but scrapers used to be used rather than sandpaper for smoothing wood.  And scrapers are much faster than sandpaper, if properly formed and burnished.  And they leave a finish that is hard to describe, which sanding doesn't.  In fact, I may choose to scrape the decks of my current model rather than sand it...

     

    Matt

    Agreed, scraping leaves an almost polished finish on many woods. The problem is most folks (me included!) don't know how to sharpen a scraper properly.

  3. I also bought the three piece fly cutter set. Waste of money as I only ever use the largest one I've got!

     

    I couldn't afford a clamping set when I first got my mill which is just as well because I made/bought individual clamping elements as I needed them. It's worked out far cheaper.

     

    Safety specs - prescription ones are good if you need them.

     

    1-2-3 blocks are very handy

     

    11/2" square to get into tight spaces setting stuff up on the mill.

     

    1" paint brush painted bright red so you don't loose it - great for cleaning chips off the mill vice/table.

     

    Make a stop for your milling vice. Handy for repeat placement of parts.

     

    Long neck LED light with magnetic base.

  4. Thanks for the answer QAR. Having had a look on the site they don't seem to have the fine-kerf slitting blades I tend to wear out most often.

     

    Best wishes

     

    Rob

    In that case Google "slitting saws", lots of companies sell them or check out eBay.

     

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/370182966397?adgroupid=16885268106&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=aud-143383368752%3Akwd-124273560066&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fipn%253Dicep%2526icep_id%253D67%2526mtid%253D1673%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D64198248666_563391%2526icep_item_id%253D370182966397%2526itemid%253D370182966397%2526icep_meta_categ_id%253D12576%2526icep_etrs%253DY%2526icep_epid%253D-999%2526icep_ctlg%253D-999%2526icep_cond%253DNew%2526targetid%253D124273560066%2526rlsatarget%253Daud-143383368752%253Akwd-124273560066%2526rpc%253D0.23%2526rpc_upld_id%253D58462%2526device%253Dt%2526icep_msku_flag%253Dn%2526icep_cbt%253Dn%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526loc%253D9045712%2526poi%253D9045712%2526campaignid%253D270621186%2526adgroupid%253D16885268106%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQiApruyBRCFqoDu1pbk9rkBEiQAF8EFdWkcsYw13dnqAQWanxG8VZppYUZHe55SinYkgrujffcaAmWi8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D933800403250&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=9045712&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=t&chn=ps&campaignid=270621186&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

     

    They also sell quite cheaply at model engineering shows, that's where I've bought all mine. Often only a couple of pounds each.

  5. Does anyone know of a UK supplier of blades suitable for the Byrnes table saw? Alternatively has anyone got an alternative adaptor bush to suit what is available this side of the pond?

     

    Rob

    These folks may be able to help? They say they can bore the blade to the size required.

     

    http://www.sawshop.co.uk/3-1-2-medium-course-finish-c-1209_1236_1378_1939_2124_2125/atkinson-walker-cordless-saw-wood-cutting-circular-saw-blade-85mm-20-tips-general-purpose-finish-p-170722893

     

    I don't think 20mm is an uncommon bore for small blades so there should be plenty of others. Worth a Google.

  6. This is a great looking compact table saw not much more than the cost of a Proxxon. I wonder if you can get thin blades to fit full size saws to make them a bit more suitable for model making? Fitting a smaller diameter blade isn't likely to present any problems.

     

    http://www.alltools.co.uk/bosch-table-saw-gts-10j-1.html?utm_source=Froogle?utm_medium=Shopping?utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CjwKEAiAvauyBRDwuYf3qNyXmW4SJACX9-fXoehpUYlBjhFnyuQMakSEGtbnQNF8O0y_df4kQeZ_rRoCZ2Tw_wcB

     

    Manual here if anyone is interested:

     

    https://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/ProdPDF/Bosch%20gts-10-j_manual.pdf

  7. I had a brief look at one of the Proxxon circular saws on a recent trip to Axminster and can't say I was over impressed with the quality. It seemed over priced to me but it does have valuable features that other mini saws don't have like the ability to tilt the blade like a full size table saw. There seem to be similar saws to the Proxxon out there at a better price point, at least in some parts of the world and I would not be overly concerned by things like a poor rip fences etc as these are easily replaced. Digital calipers or depth gauges are also relatively easy to add if required to provide accurate cutting. Many folks regard foreign machine tools as a "work in progress" that once fettled by the owner provide a good compromise of price and quality, if you have the skill to do the work!

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