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Q A's Revenge

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  1. Q A's Revenge
    Welcome to the forum Giovanni. Your English is fine!
  2. Q A's Revenge
    We bought one of these some years ago as they are easy to move around if needed. http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/S89046429/
  3. Q A's Revenge
    Make your own! http://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-real-woodworkers-workbench/ And don't be too fussy: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/mistakes-first-time-bench-builders
  4. Q A's Revenge
    Looking forward to seeing how this progresses!
  5. Q A's Revenge
    Acrylic is quite brittle Brian. Polycarbonate sheet would be better. Other suitable common plastics are Nylon or PVC. Acetal is often sold as an "engineering" plastic as it can be machined to quite close tolerances but I've seen this stuff snap under modest load as well. If I was going to have someone make one up for me though I'd go for Aluminium Alloy. There is another option if you can drill and tap a couple of holes in the existing handwheel, and that's to bolt a metal strap across it with a rotating handle on it.
  6. Q A's Revenge
    Looking at Brian's picture again I can't tell if the calibrated collar is a separate part or integral with the hand wheel? If it's integral then another solution may be required. I'd probably turn a piece of alloy and make a recess 35mm diameter so it could be slipped over the existing hand wheel and locked in place with a socket (grub) screw. It may be possible to modify an existing product in a similar way but would of course require the use of a lathe. In both cases you'd need to remove the rotating handle from the old handwheel.
  7. Q A's Revenge
    Do a search for hand wheel with revolving handle on the net, dozens of companies make these. It may take some time to find the size you need but I'm sure someone out there will make something suitable.
  8. Q A's Revenge
    Anyone know what "Resin" hulls are like to work with? Many of the Americas cup model Yachts have the option of Resin or plank on frame. What were the originals made from, steel, alloy? I ask as one of these is on my list to build when my work space is ready.
  9. Q A's Revenge
    Thanks for posting the link, lots of useful info on there!
  10. Q A's Revenge
    Welcome to the forum Bob, glad to have you on board. Only just had a quick look at the linked article but it looks to contain lots of very good information, thanks for posting!
  11. Q A's Revenge
    I bought my last batch of blades from Tuffsaws. They'll re-weld their blades for free if they break at the weld. http://tuffsaws.co.uk
  12. Q A's Revenge
    Yes, it seems the biggest difference between British and American table saw use is with fence position. The Popular Woodworking article illustrates this nicely although admittedly in a tongue in cheek manner! The linked HSE document WIS16 is only five pages long but seems to cover all the basics nicely. I've certainly filed it away for reference.
  13. Q A's Revenge
    It was similar to this one Mark. It had a work light, blade grinder and clamping system. And had "weld" and "anneal" buttons on the panel. Not sure of the exact model of Startrite bandsaw it was or it's age but it was still in daily use when I left last year. It was mainly used to cut metal and they would quite often " "break" the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the workpiece and then rejoin the blade to make the cut. The blade would then be "broken" again to remove it from the work. Fantastic machine, I'd have one any time except I expect it was three phase.
  14. Q A's Revenge
    Sorry Harvey, only just clicked on your link. Very good post, I'll keep that PDF for future reference!
  15. Q A's Revenge
    They used to make up all the bandsaw blades where I used to work from rolls of blade stock. They were welded up on a bandsaw that had a blade grinder/welder unit built into it on the side of the machine. Provided it's annealed after welding it will be fine, that's how bandsaw blades are made! An alternative for home users are to braze the ends together which shouldn't need annealing afterwards.
  16. Q A's Revenge
    I don't have a table saw but found this interesting: "Whilst the risk of kickback is real, good sense and technique, as with any tool, is the key to safe usage. Just don’t read any American magazines or books on how to use them" http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/table-saw-safety-why-the-british-think-were-crazy http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf
  17. Q A's Revenge
    Hhm, glad I read this, I'll have to try to remember as I would have used gloss as well. I think satin would be easier for me to apply as well.
  18. Q A's Revenge
    Nice job, just goes to show what you can do with a simple setup!
  19. Q A's Revenge
    If space is at a premium buy a metal working lathe as you can turn both metal and wood on it. Not so easy to do the other way round! Seek out suitable websites or buy a book on using the lathe, something like "The Amateur's Lathe" by LH Sparey. You'll be amazed at what you can do with a Lathe! PS. Save some space for a Milling Machine... :-)
  20. Q A's Revenge
    Anything that improves safety is a good idea in my book. It may seem expensive at first but what price do you put on your fingers! Let us know how you get on with it, I'm sure others will want to know your thoughts.
  21. Q A's Revenge
    Whatever you get just stay safe, power tools don't take prisoners!
  22. Q A's Revenge
    There was a thread (pun intended!) on this a while back and some reckoned this was the best stuff: http://www.threadheaven.com
  23. Q A's Revenge
    If it's this one they seem a bit pricey for what looks like a soldering iron with a large head? http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS7205
  24. Q A's Revenge
    Those look look very useful Mike thanks for posting, do you have a link? Vic.
  25. Q A's Revenge
    That's a shame. We've had several vacuum cleaners over the years and it's certainly nice to have a quiet one for a change!Did you try Miele?

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