mgdawson
-
Posts
156 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About mgdawson
Recent Profile Visitors
2,196 profile views
-
Dust collector jig for sanding drum....
mgdawson replied to Sterling59's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This one ? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4980160 -
davyboy reacted to a post in a topic:
You Tube Film on the magnificent sailing barks “The last of the Cape Horners”
-
Just in case people stumble across this old post, Model Expo is now selling "Planking the Built Up Ship Model" by Jim Roberts as a PDF $US7:99.
-
Some Idea reacted to a post in a topic:
Sherline Mill Ring Light
-
paul ron reacted to a post in a topic:
Sherline Mill Ring Light
-
Sherline Mill Ring Light
mgdawson replied to Some Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hey Mark, nice job, I picked up a couple of those, one for my mill & one for the drill press. Everyone, if you're looking for these, search for 'Angel Eyes' on the chinese stores, there are all different sizes, they're actually sold as car headlight surrounds. Mark D -
Which club ? Gotta say the old varnished timber boats were much prettier than the modern plastic ones. Mark
-
Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
My newest Challenge
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
My newest Challenge
-
My newest Challenge
mgdawson replied to James Flynn's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi James The diagrams on the left are called the body plan, as mentioned above the left side of the body plan show the contours of the hull from midships to the stern and the right side shows midships to the bow. If you look carefully at the left side the midships curves on the 2 body plans are slightly different, the lower one has 11 curves drawn and the upper only has 10 and if you overlaid them you may find other differences. Perhaps try putting the text between the 2 body plans into google translate it may give you a clue as to what's going on. As Jim mentioned check out the article on reading ship lines plans, if you don't already, you really have to have your head around those concepts. Mark -
Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
-
wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
-
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
-
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
mgdawson replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a couple of gas powered soldering irons which come with a knife tip for cutting synthetic ropes etc. Probably a bit clumsy for model work but a small flat or chisel tip, say 1mm, should do the job nicely and you've got a multipurpose tool into the bargain. -
Heater for sealing the end of rigging rope.
mgdawson replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I noticed these a little while back, the description says they're for cutting plastic sprues but they look like they'd be good for rigging, I haven't used them so can't comment further. $US19:99 each. Fine Precision Trimmer Ultra Fine Precision Trimmer
-
Help with translation of rigging term
mgdawson replied to Papa's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hmm ChatGPT says pretty much the same thing, maybe it's the bosuns belaying pin for giving slackers the hurry up 😂 -
Had a look in Anatomy of the Ship - Diana, it lists 8' 18 pounders on the upper deck, 7'6" 9 pounders as chase guns on the f'cstle & 7' 9 pounders on the quarterdeck plus 32 lb carronades on the f'cstle & quarterdeck, unfortunately it only has carriage drawings for the 18 pounder & carronades. Perhaps one of the other AotS books has the requisite drawings.
-
Keep Brass Shiny
mgdawson replied to SilversaxMan's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Google translation :- Zapon varnishes are thin, transparent nitro varnishes based on highly viscous cellulose nitrates (collodion wool), which are dissolved in highly volatile solvents such as amyl acetate, ethanol and ethyl acetate. They are usually colorless, but can also contain dyes.[1] They are usually used to protect metals such as brass, bronze or silver from oxidation (to prevent tarnishing). Zapon varnishes are unsuitable for use on iron or steel as they have no rust-protecting effect. They are also used as a varnish and for painting wood, glass and leather. The process of treating with zapon varnish is called zaponing. Zapon varnishes can be harmful to health and are usually highly flammable. A similar product is nail polish. Mark -
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the tallow was more a cream colour perhaps with a hint of yellow. Mark
-
Hi Greg Just wondering what paints you used on the collins, particularly the bronzy colour on the topsides, it looks like a good starting point for a project I'm considering. Mark
-
Perhaps this might be of some use. From 'China Tea Clippers', George Campbell, 1974
Our Emblem ®
