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mgdawson

NRG Member
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About mgdawson

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Interested in methodology of achieving desired results eg how to colour cannon, making rope, plank bending

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  1. Hi James The diagrams on the left are called the body plan, as mentioned above the left side of the body plan show the contours of the hull from midships to the stern and the right side shows midships to the bow. If you look carefully at the left side the midships curves on the 2 body plans are slightly different, the lower one has 11 curves drawn and the upper only has 10 and if you overlaid them you may find other differences. Perhaps try putting the text between the 2 body plans into google translate it may give you a clue as to what's going on. As Jim mentioned check out the article on reading ship lines plans, if you don't already, you really have to have your head around those concepts. Mark
  2. I have a couple of gas powered soldering irons which come with a knife tip for cutting synthetic ropes etc. Probably a bit clumsy for model work but a small flat or chisel tip, say 1mm, should do the job nicely and you've got a multipurpose tool into the bargain.
  3. I noticed these a little while back, the description says they're for cutting plastic sprues but they look like they'd be good for rigging, I haven't used them so can't comment further. $US19:99 each. Fine Precision Trimmer Ultra Fine Precision Trimmer
  4. Hmm ChatGPT says pretty much the same thing, maybe it's the bosuns belaying pin for giving slackers the hurry up 😂
  5. Had a look in Anatomy of the Ship - Diana, it lists 8' 18 pounders on the upper deck, 7'6" 9 pounders as chase guns on the f'cstle & 7' 9 pounders on the quarterdeck plus 32 lb carronades on the f'cstle & quarterdeck, unfortunately it only has carriage drawings for the 18 pounder & carronades. Perhaps one of the other AotS books has the requisite drawings.
  6. Google translation :- Zapon varnishes are thin, transparent nitro varnishes based on highly viscous cellulose nitrates (collodion wool), which are dissolved in highly volatile solvents such as amyl acetate, ethanol and ethyl acetate. They are usually colorless, but can also contain dyes.[1] They are usually used to protect metals such as brass, bronze or silver from oxidation (to prevent tarnishing). Zapon varnishes are unsuitable for use on iron or steel as they have no rust-protecting effect. They are also used as a varnish and for painting wood, glass and leather. The process of treating with zapon varnish is called zaponing. Zapon varnishes can be harmful to health and are usually highly flammable. A similar product is nail polish. Mark
  7. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the tallow was more a cream colour perhaps with a hint of yellow. Mark
  8. Hi Greg Just wondering what paints you used on the collins, particularly the bronzy colour on the topsides, it looks like a good starting point for a project I'm considering. Mark
  9. Perhaps this might be of some use. From 'China Tea Clippers', George Campbell, 1974
  10. Hi Allan Understand your preference for a book but at the rate F360 evolves any book would quickly be out of date, somewhat of a disincentive for any prospective author. WhiIe I saw the articles referenced by Kevin-the-lubber when they were published, I never worked though them so I can't make any specific comment but the diyode articles I have read seem to be of good quality, keep in mind those articles are almost 4 years old. There was a major change to the interface around that time so I'm not sure which interface those articles use, I know I got totally lost at the time when I was using tutorials based on the old interface with the new interface. If you haven't already found it I'd suggest youtube channel 'Product Design Online' hosted by Kevin Kennedy, if you search the videos for 'interface' Kevin has a few specifically on the interface and it's updates. Kevin is also building a 'Learn F360 in 30 days' course which he started 9 months ago, he's up to day 12 so far, looks like life got in the way of him producing the series for a while but appears he's back on it now. Mark
  11. Speaking from my limited experience of drydocking ships, I just don't see how that could have happened unless there was a serious error in the blocking. It'll be interesting to see what conclusions the investigation comes to.
  12. Hi Les, If I was faced with that option I think I'd go all or nothing for the running rigging, ie all one colour as she was originally rigged or ½ doz shades to show that lines had been replaced at different times. I'd perhaps also consider the same approach for the standing rigging, some not quite as dark as others, although the stockholnm tar would tend to quickly even things out fairly quickly there could be some subtle differences. Mark
  13. Hi Glomar I see you have a couple of double block purchases there which the plan is not clear as to how to reeve them, you may have already worked that out but if not this pic might help.
  14. Hi Dave, As 'Endeavour' was built as a collier, 'Earl of Pembroke', not as a warship for the Admiralty I'm not sure Lees book would be relevant. When the navy bought her they refitted her below decks for her new role but they may have left the masting and rigging as is if it was in good condition and there was no good reason to change it. Presumably the 'Earl' would have been rigged for a much smaller crew than the navy would carry for a ship of that size and a smaller crew would also suit the planned voyage. Mark
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