Bob Cleek

It still doesn't sound like you're entirely clear on the concept. 1. Put your hand drill motor in a vise.  2. Put the dowel you will be using for the mast or boom in the chuck of your drill motor. 3. Hold the far end of the dowel with a piece of cloth or drill a hole in a piece of wood and rig a support for the outer end with clamps or whatever. 4. Turn on drill motor. 5. Run a sanding block with 120 grit or so up and down the length of the dowel to shape it. 
 
If you have the option of sending the Dremel drill press back where it came from for a refund, I'd say "Send it back!" I've never heard of anybody who had one that was satisfied with it. It simply lacks the rigidity to do the work at the tolerances modeling demands. Dremel mototools have their place and are useful for a lot of jobs, but Dremel's stands and attachments are often more in the "toy" category than in the "serious tool" category. Your mileage may vary, but I'd suggest if you are for whatever reason wedded to a Dremel mototool for power, you'd be dollars ahead to get a Vanda-Lay Industries drill press or  mill/drill set up and realize a much higher quality level of work. If you aren't wedded to the mototool for power, get a dedicated mini-drill press. 
 
Below are the Vanda-Lay drill press, and mill. the lower two photos are of the mill set up as a cut-off saw and as a wood lathe.  This system, powered by a Dremel mototool (any type) or a Foredom handpiece, is somewhat similar to the legendary Unimat DB/SL in concept. They are made entirely of CNC-cut aluminum and stainless steel and very nicely done. It's a family business and their service is prompt. Their prices are quite reasonable, in my opinion. Their drill press, and mill/drill/circular saw/lathe fill the need for machines that can turn out good work at a price point well below purchasing any dedicated machine tool in the same size range. The mill/drill has tremendous versatility. They make good sense for those who have yet to commit to investing thousands of dollars in a micro-machine shop full of dedicated tools.  https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/index.html
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 

Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.

Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.

Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.

Use a new, sharp drill bit in a pin vise and don't force it. No powered drilling. Let the bit cut the wood. Expect to lose a few in any event due to weak grain in the wrong place.

Guys - I wouldnt use bitumen if I was you its simply not uv stable, I realise its in small amouts but the thinner the bitumen film the shorter life it will have. Bitumen needs to be protected from surface oxidation. In commercial applications this can be very relevant. I am a former bitumen chemist with a stack of text on the subject based on data published by Shell. In a thin film application it can reduce to dust with light esposure, grades are usually a straight PEN grade typically represented by the numbers 25 to 300 or an oxidised Grade based on two numbers such as 95/25 these numbers relfect the test reults in simple mechincal tests used in industry.
 
Norman

Well I cut the nut off and after a bit of effort I got the collet off the flexible drive shaft.  New nut ordered!
Back on Brig Speedy tomorrow. 
 
Thank you for your ideas. Really appreciated. I find this forum an absolutely amazing place. 
 

Apply a little heat with a heat gun and pull it out.
 

Strange looking collet..  
 
With no more information I would think it is upside down..
 
The collets I am familiar with look like this:
 

 
The collet and retainer appear to be upside down.
 
Looking at the manual I'm even more convinced..
 

 
If you continue un-screwing, the whole thing should come off if you can find some way to lock the shaft..
 
 
 

Tagua nuts.  https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive.  It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color.  The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.

The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.

The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.

Tagua nuts.  https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive.  It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color.  The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.

Tagua nuts.  https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive.  It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color.  The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.

My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
 
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. 
 
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."

Tagua nuts.  https://www.amazon.com/10-Eco-friendly-easy-carve-tagua-nuts/dp/B0002IXM3C
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
"Solid surface" material, originally patented by DuPont as "Corian" and used for countertops and other work surfaces, and now manufactured by others as well, comes in a huge selection of colors including ivory and is easily machined and glued with epoxy adhesive.  It was originally only sold wholesale to installers and was only available to licensed fabricators and installers, but now may be more obtainable by the general public. It's quite expensive in large sheets, but one may be able to secure relatively small offcuts from fabricators. I got an offcut sheet large enough to serve as the top of an extension table for my cabinet saw for $100 "under the table and out the back door" of a fabricator. They had no use for it because it was left over from a job and was a nauseating puke green color.  The stuff is cut and machined with woodworking tools. I've never tried to carve it with carving knives and chisels, but it can be carved with burs and sands easily.

The accuracy of a Byrnes Model Machines table saw is measured in thousandths of an inch with a micrometer fence adjustment. The tape may not make any difference on a right angle cut, but things can wobble when the work isn't laying perfectly flat on the table. With something between the workpiece and the table, sliding can be uneven, a slight movement can cause the blade to catch the piece and cause a kickback. It may well only happen in theory... and then again, it may happen in reality. As I said, if you wanted to take a chance, it's your blood, not mine. I think I'd be more inclined to use a larger plate and risk losing a strip down the clearance space than risk laying down tape myself. If you're looking for affirmation, yes... It shows your thinking and it's a clever work-around, but I'm not going to advise anybody to try it and be responsible if they come to grief.

If your brain even suggests 'Is this a bad idea?', then chances are, that it is! Use inserts for peace of mind, accuracy and bodily integrity.

My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
 
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. 
 
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."

My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
 
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. 
 
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."

My thought, too. If you have a saw that is capable of fine tolerances, e.g. a Byrnes, the tape solution will probably sacrifice some reliable accuracy.
 
On the other hand, as for tape tearing through and all that, there is an aluminium (I think) tape commonly used to tape ducting joints in HVAC installations that would probably solve any tearing issues. 
 
On balance, your idea is a clever one and perhaps a quick solution for a single cut, if you are careful and not too concerned about ultimate accuracy. For a production run of planking strips... not so much. I think you'd be better off to take the time to swap inserts rather than be sorry. Of course, it's always seems when a corner is cut for just one quick cut that's when an accident occurs. With a hand saw, "measure twice and cut once." With a table saw, "measure twice, think three times, rehearse the cut without the saw running, then cut."

I'd strongly second this recommendation. The initial cost is about twice what a decent Dremel or Proxxon will cost, but, indeed there is no comparison. The Foredom flex-shaft tool system is several multiples better than the less expensive options. (Do not opt for one of the Chinese copies now on the market. They've gotten terrible reviews.) As for drill presses, Vanda-Lay Industries, which produces an excellent system of "Dremel powered" drill presses and mills, etc., has informed me they would be happy to supply their equipment with fixtures to hold the 1" diamenter Foredom handpieces instead of the larger Dremel bodies. I'll be upgrading my Vanda-Lay drill press to hold my Foredom handpieces instead of a Dremel moto-tool in the near future. Torque trumps speed every time in fine work!

Oh yeah! Definitely! Professional jewelry supply houses, and medical and dental instrument supply houses are goldmines full of useful modeling tools and supplies, generally at higher quality and even at lower prices that the "hobby" online suppliers. 
 
In the US:     https://www.riogrande.com/category/tools-and-equipment
                 
                      https://contenti.com/professional-jewelry-making-tool-kit   
 
                      https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment
 

This is one of these solutions that seems good until things go wrong 
 
1.  You cut a thin strip of wood and the one side gets dragged down into the blade and busts through the tape seizing the saw.
2.  The tape has drag that a metal surface doesn't.  So your piece stops and your finger don't
3.  This lulls you into thinking that your saw is set up correctly 
 
I think that you have got away with things so far.  If you have worked with power tools for a long period you will know just what a nasty habit they have of biting back just when you're not expecting it.  I have so much respect for table saws that there is no way I would do this.  Just make yourself a proper zero clearance insert and have done with it.  Why even think about taking the risk.

Your blade is up too high..  I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better.
 
OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback:
If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge of the blade, the blade is still inside the pusher piece.
The work is hidden - so that success can only be determined post cut - but there can be no kickback and fingers are safe.
 
translation:
Pine board = any wood that is low cost and has the needed  dimensions  to keep the blade enclosed.
billet = whatever stock is being sliced up.