Bob Cleek

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

I've found a staircase maker's rasp very handy for rough shaping solid hulls:
 

 
https://www.mrmtool.com/10-Staircase-Makers-Rasp-•-Half-Round-Bent-Second-Cut_p_1142.html
 
A similar "hoof rasp" used by farriers is also, and probably more widely available.
 
 https://www.evohoofcare.com/Bar-Sole-Rasp-1_p_16.html
 
 

You should start here and then consider your options: 
 
As with any tool, you get what you pay for, generally speaking. A good, top of the line scroll saw will hold much of its value on the resale market if and when you decide to unload it. The run of the mill cheapos are a dime a dozen on the "flea market" web sites. The quality of a scroll saw is determined by its amount of vibration. The less, the better. The "double parallel arm scroll saws," are the best, due to their "double parallel arms." These are the top end options by Hegner, Sakura, Excalibur, and so on. (Brands you've never heard of probably because they are specialty items.) Reviewers of the lower end scroll saws give high marks to the Delta scroll saws.
 
Here's a 21" Sakura with stand for sale on eBay right now for $345.00 or "Best Offer." https://www.ebay.com/itm/113782374163?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113782374163&targetid=1068323853510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032112&poi=&campaignid=11612431611&mkgroupid=120003497904&rlsatarget=pla-1068323853510&abcId=9300456&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5dY_w4irzmnwSEWlnSwniDYB2IZ18AEQRrSB9mVCv4zUlfjTpAsrIIaAlGSEALw_wcB
 
If I was in the market for one myself, I'd be all over it like white on rice for that price. (This Sakura new is $800.00. A 22" Hegner runs $2,000.00 new. Both without a stand.) "Free local pickup," which makes you wonder why that being "free" is any big deal.  I came across this when I was looking for a picture of a top end scroll saw and noticed the very reasonable price. It's located in South San Francisco, so you could shoot up I-5 and pick it up yourself! (Okay, it's a five or six hour drive one way. Some of us do that on a fairly regular basis and even shipping shouldn't require taking out a second mortgage. ) 
 
 
 
Manufacturer's website: http://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ (They changed their name to PSWood Machines. They are made in the USA, but the original "Sakura" brand name sounded too Asian, I suspect. )
 

 

You should start here and then consider your options: 
 
As with any tool, you get what you pay for, generally speaking. A good, top of the line scroll saw will hold much of its value on the resale market if and when you decide to unload it. The run of the mill cheapos are a dime a dozen on the "flea market" web sites. The quality of a scroll saw is determined by its amount of vibration. The less, the better. The "double parallel arm scroll saws," are the best, due to their "double parallel arms." These are the top end options by Hegner, Sakura, Excalibur, and so on. (Brands you've never heard of probably because they are specialty items.) Reviewers of the lower end scroll saws give high marks to the Delta scroll saws.
 
Here's a 21" Sakura with stand for sale on eBay right now for $345.00 or "Best Offer." https://www.ebay.com/itm/113782374163?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113782374163&targetid=1068323853510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032112&poi=&campaignid=11612431611&mkgroupid=120003497904&rlsatarget=pla-1068323853510&abcId=9300456&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5dY_w4irzmnwSEWlnSwniDYB2IZ18AEQRrSB9mVCv4zUlfjTpAsrIIaAlGSEALw_wcB
 
If I was in the market for one myself, I'd be all over it like white on rice for that price. (This Sakura new is $800.00. A 22" Hegner runs $2,000.00 new. Both without a stand.) "Free local pickup," which makes you wonder why that being "free" is any big deal.  I came across this when I was looking for a picture of a top end scroll saw and noticed the very reasonable price. It's located in South San Francisco, so you could shoot up I-5 and pick it up yourself! (Okay, it's a five or six hour drive one way. Some of us do that on a fairly regular basis and even shipping shouldn't require taking out a second mortgage. ) 
 
 
 
Manufacturer's website: http://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ (They changed their name to PSWood Machines. They are made in the USA, but the original "Sakura" brand name sounded too Asian, I suspect. )
 

 

I've found a staircase maker's rasp very handy for rough shaping solid hulls:
 

 
https://www.mrmtool.com/10-Staircase-Makers-Rasp-•-Half-Round-Bent-Second-Cut_p_1142.html
 
A similar "hoof rasp" used by farriers is also, and probably more widely available.
 
 https://www.evohoofcare.com/Bar-Sole-Rasp-1_p_16.html
 
 

I've found a staircase maker's rasp very handy for rough shaping solid hulls:
 

 
https://www.mrmtool.com/10-Staircase-Makers-Rasp-•-Half-Round-Bent-Second-Cut_p_1142.html
 
A similar "hoof rasp" used by farriers is also, and probably more widely available.
 
 https://www.evohoofcare.com/Bar-Sole-Rasp-1_p_16.html
 
 

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

Bob,
 
My spokeshaves were bought 55 years ago.  The professional model makers that built wooden models for the University of Michigan’s Naval Architecture towing tank used them.  Three of us were building a model to be towed for our senior design project so we each bought a set.  
 
I later replaced the slotted screws with the socket headed cap screws screws to make the blades easier to tighten.
 
The aluminum plate is home made and allows the two straight blades to fit into my sharpening guide at the proper angle.  Otherwise, the blades are too short.

Decades ago, I had home just north of San Francisco, CA, which had a 14" high living room wall built of exposed Belgian blocks, recycled cobblestones from the streets of San Francisco. In earlier times, the ships would arrive in SF in ballast carrying Belgian blocks, unload the blocks and take on a cargo of grain for the return trip. The blocks were used to pave the streets. In later times, some of these cobblestone streets are still to be seen, although most have be asphalted over. The City now has an ordinance requiring that any cobblestones dug up in street repair belong to the City, which reuses them in parks and other landscaping applications. The cobblestone streets are famous, but their origins aren't commonly known.

TMJ
Interesting question!   If the ship was ballasted with Belgium blocks, there was not need for anything else to keep them from shifting as the were flat sided and stacked along the curvature of the hull.  If river bed stone stone was used, I suppose it depended on the size of the stone.  If the stones were the size of an Idaho potato, they would weigh about 4 pounds so maybe were prone to moving around, but if more like the size of a melon  it would weigh in the neighborhood of 25 pounds and not so likely to move around.   Keep in mind that the stones would likely settle and lock together.  If there were pebbles and sand dumped in between it would probably wind up with a Brazil nut effect so the same situation would exist in the upper portion anyway.  I will be interested to see any contemporary information.
Allan

Rather than bolt tools directly to my bench top,  I added a woodworkers vise under the front of the bench - a cheap HF vise that wants to rack when tightened, because the tolerances are from poverty.  But I do not do full size wood projects and it is not needed for that.
I use a 2x12 to make a tool base.  I use lag bolts to secure the tool and to mount a second piece of 2x12 to the front of the base and make it long enough to engage the vise.   
I can store the tools under the bench and have the whole bench open when I need it.   I can interchange a grinder,  machinist's vise,  9" band saw.  
There are open wrenches specific to the saw.  I fixed a spring clamp that is for dowels used for clothing hangers to the top of the base.  It holds the wrenches, but easily turns them loose.   Holes in the top hold tool specific Allen wrenches.
 
It looks like a 2x12 may be difficult to source, but the width is good to have.

From where I sit, a question... is the wood from the kit good?   If so, just cut outside the line a bit (not on the line) and then sand, file to shape.  If the wood is damaged, copy it using a copy machine or one of the printers that has a scan/copy function.   You may have to fiddle a bit with the setting to get the exact size you need.  Once printed, these can be put onto a new slab of wood using rubber cement.

Sounds like a scroll saw is the way to go.  The next question would be which scroll saw is recommended?  Guidance appreciated.  The kits the scroll saw would be used on are a Billings: Golden Hind (480), Jylland (465) and Cutty (459), and Mantua Peregrine Galley, 

It doesn't sound like like a good idea at all..
 
Chuck's suggestion of a scroll saw would be your best approach..
 
What sort of kit ( name ) are you talking about ?   Is there something special about it that rules out acquiring a new kit that doesn't require cutting out the major components?

The cheapest way to go is buy a scroll saw and start cutting.   Laser cutters dont work like describe.  You would need to scan each board into a computer program and trace every part using a program like Corel Draw.  Which is very expensive in its own right.   It would take you 100 times the hours to do that in comparison to just buying a good scroll saw.
 
Chuck

In years of arrow making I found that chucking up the arrow in a drill and using sandpaper to round it usually ended up with an oval shaft. The edge grain resists the sandpaper. A little practice with a shooting board and a block plane usually produced better results.
 
Edit- chucking up the shaft in a drill motor and then holding it against a belt sander produces pretty good result but quite often the chuck on the drill loses grip and you fire the shaft across the shop. It's amazing how far they will go.

Why bother with a make-shift lathe of any kind? The old time spar-makers simply made the spar a tapered square in cross-section, then planed it octagonal, finally 16-sided and then rounded it off. One can do this easily at model size using a V shaped holder and a 7-10-7 proportioned scale to mark the sides of the square stick out before cutting it octagonal. One can use a mini-plane or sharp chisel for this. It takes little time and, at model size, after the 8-square is cut, sandpaper does the rest of the job. No power equipment required!

Thanks for all the positive feedback..... after sleeping on the decisions about the cushions this morning I tried a new approach with some differedt foam and backing boards.
The next series of pictures are self explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
And yes I am switching to the green because it is softer and more forgiving , The last picture shows the seat and back cushions as different patterns the backs will be the same as the new seats.
 
Michael
 

Red leather is reminiscent of a mans parlor or library.....the Cloth more of a ladies sitting room or entertaining lounge.
 
The green leather is more apropos to a nautical theme in MV.  Clean and fresh.  Similar to what Haken posted of an actual vessel.
 
However, I am far too opinionated, on things nautical, so I defer to your own good sense.  It's your model.
 
Rob

It still doesn't sound like you're entirely clear on the concept. 1. Put your hand drill motor in a vise.  2. Put the dowel you will be using for the mast or boom in the chuck of your drill motor. 3. Hold the far end of the dowel with a piece of cloth or drill a hole in a piece of wood and rig a support for the outer end with clamps or whatever. 4. Turn on drill motor. 5. Run a sanding block with 120 grit or so up and down the length of the dowel to shape it. 
 
If you have the option of sending the Dremel drill press back where it came from for a refund, I'd say "Send it back!" I've never heard of anybody who had one that was satisfied with it. It simply lacks the rigidity to do the work at the tolerances modeling demands. Dremel mototools have their place and are useful for a lot of jobs, but Dremel's stands and attachments are often more in the "toy" category than in the "serious tool" category. Your mileage may vary, but I'd suggest if you are for whatever reason wedded to a Dremel mototool for power, you'd be dollars ahead to get a Vanda-Lay Industries drill press or  mill/drill set up and realize a much higher quality level of work. If you aren't wedded to the mototool for power, get a dedicated mini-drill press. 
 
Below are the Vanda-Lay drill press, and mill. the lower two photos are of the mill set up as a cut-off saw and as a wood lathe.  This system, powered by a Dremel mototool (any type) or a Foredom handpiece, is somewhat similar to the legendary Unimat DB/SL in concept. They are made entirely of CNC-cut aluminum and stainless steel and very nicely done. It's a family business and their service is prompt. Their prices are quite reasonable, in my opinion. Their drill press, and mill/drill/circular saw/lathe fill the need for machines that can turn out good work at a price point well below purchasing any dedicated machine tool in the same size range. The mill/drill has tremendous versatility. They make good sense for those who have yet to commit to investing thousands of dollars in a micro-machine shop full of dedicated tools.  https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/index.html
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 

Yes, that's a common complaint with the Dremel drill press.. All indications are that the flexion in the Dremel unit makes it a bit-breaker for the small size bits. I've found the Vanda-Lay Industry rotary tool drill press to be adequately solid, although for serious drilling I opt for my Unimat SL. I've just discovered the "Micro Fine Drill Mill Adaptor Miniature Quill."  It's 1/2" shaft chucks into a full size drill press. It has a separate quill with a knurled grip that permits drilling with very small bits with fine control. I think I'm going to check it out. 
 
https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Shank-JT0-Chuck-Manual-Control-Avoids-Breakage/dp/B06XZ4KJSV/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/138-4377185-5044154?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XZ4KJSV&pd_rd_r=4b546926-1697-465b-b65e-5ff710252f39&pd_rd_w=p7Mbu&pd_rd_wg=iFknW&pf_rd_p=16b28406-aa34-451d-8a2e-b3930ada000c&pf_rd_r=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q&psc=1&refRID=FJQWZ5GFRGH7NZF6FP3Q
 

It still doesn't sound like you're entirely clear on the concept. 1. Put your hand drill motor in a vise.  2. Put the dowel you will be using for the mast or boom in the chuck of your drill motor. 3. Hold the far end of the dowel with a piece of cloth or drill a hole in a piece of wood and rig a support for the outer end with clamps or whatever. 4. Turn on drill motor. 5. Run a sanding block with 120 grit or so up and down the length of the dowel to shape it. 
 
If you have the option of sending the Dremel drill press back where it came from for a refund, I'd say "Send it back!" I've never heard of anybody who had one that was satisfied with it. It simply lacks the rigidity to do the work at the tolerances modeling demands. Dremel mototools have their place and are useful for a lot of jobs, but Dremel's stands and attachments are often more in the "toy" category than in the "serious tool" category. Your mileage may vary, but I'd suggest if you are for whatever reason wedded to a Dremel mototool for power, you'd be dollars ahead to get a Vanda-Lay Industries drill press or  mill/drill set up and realize a much higher quality level of work. If you aren't wedded to the mototool for power, get a dedicated mini-drill press. 
 
Below are the Vanda-Lay drill press, and mill. the lower two photos are of the mill set up as a cut-off saw and as a wood lathe.  This system, powered by a Dremel mototool (any type) or a Foredom handpiece, is somewhat similar to the legendary Unimat DB/SL in concept. They are made entirely of CNC-cut aluminum and stainless steel and very nicely done. It's a family business and their service is prompt. Their prices are quite reasonable, in my opinion. Their drill press, and mill/drill/circular saw/lathe fill the need for machines that can turn out good work at a price point well below purchasing any dedicated machine tool in the same size range. The mill/drill has tremendous versatility. They make good sense for those who have yet to commit to investing thousands of dollars in a micro-machine shop full of dedicated tools.  https://www.vanda-layindustries.com/index.html