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First question . Do I need one, If I do what for? What sort of wattage is required and what else do I need ? ie type of solder, flux etc . I am currently on my second model but my first period ship The Bounty. I have been informed that this model by Amati does not require any soldering, however I think it would have made a better job than gluing the brass rings to the cannons.

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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Hi Dave - If you really want to get one for modelling I can honestly say that I have the cheapest and lowest wattage soldering iron you can get.  It cost about £20 and I've used it a few times on copper and brass parts but I could have just as easily glued them together.  The type of solder and flux is pretty irrelevant as cleanliness is the most important thing when soldering.  Clean the parts with wire wool to remove all residues and then get going.  The all singing and dancing soldering stations are great for electrical engineers but well over the top for your average modeller in my opinion.  Buy cheap and practice.

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I have switched from solid solder/ soldering iron to paste solder and a small torch with a fireproof pad, all available from Rio Grande jewelry supply.  To me it is easier to join the small rings and eyebolts.  By the way, Rio Grande is a great source for tools and some materials.  They charge for their (large) catalog, but it's worth it.   They have a great selection of files and pliars, for example.

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I've always been a fan of butane powered soldering irons. A relatively good one can be had for a reasonable price. I say it's good as I have always been in situations where I never had an outlet, or what I had (iron wise) never had the stones to properly solder what I was doing. A butane iron generally comes with multiple tips , a heat nozzle and can be used as a small precision torch. Soldering brass is a breeze as are smaller delicate items as the temp is completely variable. And did I say...no waiting to heat up :)

Edited by Ron Burns

Current Build- HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48

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Thanks everyone for some great answers. Regarding the gas powered soldering iron. I believe Dremel do one .Has anyone had experience with this. Think they are also on the expensive side so will have to way it up. Not sure if Rio Grande is hear in the uk but there will be something similar I am sure. Best regards Dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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Hi Dave - The problem with using a gas soldering iron with soft solder is one of heat.  If it's too cold it won't solder and if its too hot it won't solder either.  They do not have any kind of way of measuring their heat output other than the size of the flame under the tip.  Electric irons are set to work at the best temperature and generally always work.   I only use gas with silver solder and then its a pure flame.  I've never had much success with a flame and soft solder as the temperature is critical. 

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When soldering, the piece being soldered too needs to be heated to the point where solder will flow of its own volition. If you have a weak iron, insufficient heat will always result in improperly soldered, cold joints. In my 40 years of experience as an electronics tech, I have seen more damage done by crappy irons. Almost all of the medium to good quality butane irons have variable heat output. I have used silver solder, standard rosin core solder, tin and lead etc and the theory is always the same. Clean well, pre tin if needed or possible and then bring both pieces up to the temp. point where the solder flows between them forming a bond. I think it's nice to have the horsepower if needed and delicacy as well. One doesn't need a plug, I've used them in -25c weather outside and in the rain. I've used them on 30K mixing boards and 18 inch sub woofers, JBL W-Bins etc etc. I've also used mine to bend .5mm veneer strips and many other things. Thats my rant :) 

Current Build- HMS Winchelsea 1764 1:48

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I really like this little Kit

 

Soldering Iron Kit

 

I t comes with a lot of stuff I am not likely to use, but the price is good.

 

What is great is that it has a variable temp control ..

 

I use the little pointed tip to melt down polyester thread nibs when tying knots..  You can make them invisible..

 

image.png.6ab674f72bfbd73be9907892789d3181.png

 

Luck is just another word for good preparation.

—MICHAEL ROSE

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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There are advantages to using silver solder. There's a quite a lot of difference between silver solder and the solder they sell for electronic soldering. Silver soldering takes more heat that the "rosin core" solder sold for electronic soldering. Silver solder provides a much stronger joint, for one thing, but is not 'gap filling." The parts to be silver soldered must be actually touching when soldered. Silver soldering is the province of jewelry makers and modelers. Anybody who does any amount of jewelry making or model soldering usually ends up with a Smith Little Torch or an equivalent. (Warning: There are counterfeit Smith Little Torches being sold on eBay and elsewhere that are indistinguishable from the real thing. They are sold for much less and are reportedly no different, although there are complaints about "fit and finish." Buy from Smith directly, or from a reputable jewelry supply house to get the real deal.) These torches can be run on oxygen and propane, acetylene, or mapp gas, as one wishes. The disposable gas bottles are cheap and widely available. They work best for modeling purposes unless you are doing a lot of soldering, at which point one might want to move up to a larger gas tank available from welding supply stores.

 

This is the state of the art tool for the jobs we do on models. There's no need to pay extra for a large selection of tips. The basic tip is fine for modeling purposes. While the real Smith Torch kit is more expensive than butane brazing torches, it is far more capable in terms of heat output because it's running on oxygenated gas mixtures and the heat can be very precisely applied where you want it.  The Smith Little Torch is one of the "industry standards." For my money, I'd go with the Smith torch rather than buy a lesser one that may prove a disappointment. There's lots of content on these torches on YouTube. Check it out.

 

See: https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media/miller-electric/imported-mam-assets/spec-sheets/2/d/e/ge200-the-little-torch-kit.pdf

 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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Personally I prefer a soldering torch, and different temps of soldering paste. The paste comes in a syringe and you only need a tiny amount, you heat it up with the torch and it will eventually do its thing. Although a soldering torch doesn’t have any kind of temp control, well they make different variations of soldering paste for that problem as well, so you can have a low temp medium temp and high temp, with the difference being how long you have to hold the torch to the paste. I took a small wood cabinet and bolted it in the ground against the wall, I then laid bricks on top of that creating a “soldering table” as I call it. I also used a small Stanley bench vise with soft clamps to hold my work, that way I can hold what ever I’m soldering with clamps or my hand or both while I apply heat. Like everything else this all requires practice, I break joints all the times, as long as I use enough paste with enough heat and clean metal I never have issues. 

 

Bradley 

Edited by Keithbrad80

Current Builds:

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Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72

 

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10 hours ago, Gregory said:

I really like this little Kit

 

Soldering Iron Kit

 

I t comes with a lot of stuff I am not likely to use, but the price is good.

 

What is great is that it has a variable temp control ..

 

I use the little pointed tip to melt down polyester thread nibs when tying knots..  You can make them invisible..

 

image.png.6ab674f72bfbd73be9907892789d3181.png

 

Looks a great piece of kit. I am in the uk 230 v but could get an adaptor. There must be something similar over the pond , but thanks for giving me the idea of what I need.

Here are a couple of ideas let me know what you think

This one from RS componants is a https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/soldering-stations/1611962/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Power_Tools_%26_Soldering_%26_Welding_Whoop-_-Soldering+Stations_Whoop-_-1611962&matchtype=&aud-821594433763:pla-324976625914&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfEejenGV-ID8HW7AumaTSQ6X-HXNTp2OBVq0gLvV3kYZ3HYD1h4zeBoCfqUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsbit expensive but should be rliable coming from them

Here is another  cheaper option but think it might be from China https://www.amazon.co.uk/LONOVE-Soldering-Station-90°C-480°C-Temperature/dp/B08H1JXM2X/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=54018747315&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAmrOBBhA0EiwArn3mfA_ASaRLdv3bF98VehQ5SH0uXgmf4FDBepqxc-ac6J0SxNFnUlk1mxoCxBEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=259076404681&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1007202&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10692710885630821129&hvtargid=kwd-21704086&hydadcr=28152_1752810&keywords=soldering+station&qid=1613634589&sr=8-1-spons&tag=googhydr-21&psc=1&smid=A1701LRVQHBWK4&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWjBETEZKQ01UT0tSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMyMTI3MjFMRzNQNExESUpPRyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDA2NzE3TDY1TUYzTUE2WUlLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Let me know what you guys think

 

Best regards Dave

Edited by DaveBaxt

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Keithbrad80 said:

Personally I prefer a soldering torch, and different temps of soldering paste. The paste comes in a syringe and you only need a tiny amount, you heat it up with the torch and it will eventually do its thing. Although a soldering torch doesn’t have any kind of temp control, well they make different variations of soldering paste for that problem as well, so you can have a low temp medium temp and high temp, with the difference being how long you have to hold the torch to the paste. I took a small wood cabinet and bolted it in the ground against the wall, I then laid bricks on top of that creating a “soldering table” as I call it. I also used a small Stanley bench vise with soft clamps to hold my work, that way I can hold what ever I’m soldering with clamps or my hand or both while I apply heat. Like everything else this all requires practice, I break joints all the times, as long as I use enough paste with enough heat and clean metal I never have issues. 

 

Bradley 

I do like the idea of the soldering torch and it seems you have some success if you know what you are doing .( I have had very little experience of brazing and soldering but over 35 years ago) Price will be a big factor as I have already spent about 5 times what my model cost on gear.Sadly , some I needed and some I didn't. . Thanks once again for your reply.Best regards Dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, No Idea said:

Hi Dave - If you really want to get one for modelling I can honestly say that I have the cheapest and lowest wattage soldering iron you can get.  It cost about £20 and I've used it a few times on copper and brass parts but I could have just as easily glued them together.  The type of solder and flux is pretty irrelevant as cleanliness is the most important thing when soldering.  Clean the parts with wire wool to remove all residues and then get going.  The all singing and dancing soldering stations are great for electrical engineers but well over the top for your average modeller in my opinion.  Buy cheap and practice.

Take a look further down at a couple of ideas I have had. There both a bit pricey but look good. Perhaps you have a better idea ( I notice you quoted in  sterling ) so anything in the UK that you think would work. Thanks again for you input.Best regards Dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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I converted form soft solder with a heat iron to silver solder. I use the Proxon torch which is excellent.

Silver soldering needs parts to be very clean and in contact but at least for me is more controllable and easier to work with. I use phos solder paste so when polished it does not stand out against the brass parts. I could never control the soft solder in the same way-strength is a non issue. 

In regards to equipment, it really depends on the scale you work and how large and thick the pieces are. If the pieces to be soldered are large, a powerful iron is needed to deliver the energy to raise the temperature. If they are too large, it may not work.

Even with silver soldering, I had a few large pieces to solder and the Proxon torch was not adequate-I have a much bigger torch for these.

Any of the irons you ve looked at will do the job.

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Hi Dave - I can't vouch for the quality in any way but if all your going to do is the odd occasional bit of small soldering these will do you

 

An 80W plug in iron £13.79

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-LCD-Digital-Electronics-Soldering-Welding-Iron-Adjustable-Temperature-Tool/283979616080?hash=item421e810f50:g:1YoAAOSwWGNfN1N6

 

Or if you want to go with a gas soldering iron here's a pretty good make for £26.  You can get cheaper ones and some come with a small gas torch adaptor

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAS-SOLDERING-IRON-25w-80w-PRO-IRODA-SOLDERPRO-70-REFILLABLE-BUTANE-BLOW-TORCH/362052633206?epid=2147176154&hash=item544c04c276:g:VlQAAOSw21RbxwNF

 

Use some Powerflow flux and you will have no problems.  This is an aggressive flux that plumbers in the UK use for soldering pipework.  I've used it for years and never had an issue.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fernox-FRY-Powerflow-Flux-For-Lead-Free-Solder-100-grams-WRAS-Approved/383565740013?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594e4cb7ed:g:R9MAAOSwLEdfNZM9&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkxFtV7J5P58ubuVigtBH%2Fey0ngebVyVAiyrzn%2FM%2F9TIttaXRgTC94tVdLWWclQb3zAIuzuu4gCMS47M1lHBRPE%2FSHXWXlm3rA1MCvKBdA9pzD%2BKjOltq2pJftFrbgvty8Vk3LyBPpkayBJdLMcBI25zdo%2FRjxGjv%2FTfikZzDpOpXGbvMMCcI85D7SyE7gbLb8upBeoebOwflvD%2B4xRaDeYMb5SiNDg%2B0PhQeXqbHK9JRuxyQCVKwHhA6tWZkzJC7LUhwEqIMmkYsFgnVaXN%2BzeQ8lbZgvE5kdQvucv7PtcXAizYxWWlITWDweX319HjrohTlYccBekicsVKz0DYogJw52Xuzvy6sIBuDKI8VxiIebas9qdLn6zFlTSLoz5ChCI3iE%2BXkVqiaER3ovvgSwo4ShZWbUJQjYNrATokLHn%2BUJ7jgYhwVT3eedl0XaFpvOFb0cZt3D0uue1Y7vxQnUNSFGC2A%2BMHGuXyiSdqDaSYL2w6DM85BZXhFH%2B1eOgbkXB%2FEIBLjJJiKgbUks0Z1S7R3mJX%2FRM3uyXaySGuQtI26owYEzrvZ8nHtsq4SW4K%2F4zrv5d2iClim2vA4gK1x1j29sW569npqXJtbUqcxaR94t9ysgktPG%2FfSpHqd4o6R%2Fzudl%2B6Ww3%2FbmZm%2BDBbx1JWF1ZZ0PzMFvkQcgZUGoqXQUotR60%2BOVrLk5H27Gvq1%2FGs%2BANC17Kd7jHT3h91SWwUgeDe4O4uf%2BLZ2hkOUGcr8cgoNQnYK7kczBsfs8A3ybMDuDIUVTdM3UFXpFTZXVqg%3D%3D|cksum%3A3835657400136ee460c97e55433c906e775df77bac7f|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

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4 hours ago, No Idea said:

Hi Dave - I can't vouch for the quality in any way but if all your going to do is the odd occasional bit of small soldering these will do you

 

An 80W plug in iron £13.79

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-LCD-Digital-Electronics-Soldering-Welding-Iron-Adjustable-Temperature-Tool/283979616080?hash=item421e810f50:g:1YoAAOSwWGNfN1N6

 

Or if you want to go with a gas soldering iron here's a pretty good make for £26.  You can get cheaper ones and some come with a small gas torch adaptor

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAS-SOLDERING-IRON-25w-80w-PRO-IRODA-SOLDERPRO-70-REFILLABLE-BUTANE-BLOW-TORCH/362052633206?epid=2147176154&hash=item544c04c276:g:VlQAAOSw21RbxwNF

 

Use some Powerflow flux and you will have no problems.  This is an aggressive flux that plumbers in the UK use for soldering pipework.  I've used it for years and never had an issue.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fernox-FRY-Powerflow-Flux-For-Lead-Free-Solder-100-grams-WRAS-Approved/383565740013?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item594e4cb7ed:g:R9MAAOSwLEdfNZM9&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkxFtV7J5P58ubuVigtBH%2Fey0ngebVyVAiyrzn%2FM%2F9TIttaXRgTC94tVdLWWclQb3zAIuzuu4gCMS47M1lHBRPE%2FSHXWXlm3rA1MCvKBdA9pzD%2BKjOltq2pJftFrbgvty8Vk3LyBPpkayBJdLMcBI25zdo%2FRjxGjv%2FTfikZzDpOpXGbvMMCcI85D7SyE7gbLb8upBeoebOwflvD%2B4xRaDeYMb5SiNDg%2B0PhQeXqbHK9JRuxyQCVKwHhA6tWZkzJC7LUhwEqIMmkYsFgnVaXN%2BzeQ8lbZgvE5kdQvucv7PtcXAizYxWWlITWDweX319HjrohTlYccBekicsVKz0DYogJw52Xuzvy6sIBuDKI8VxiIebas9qdLn6zFlTSLoz5ChCI3iE%2BXkVqiaER3ovvgSwo4ShZWbUJQjYNrATokLHn%2BUJ7jgYhwVT3eedl0XaFpvOFb0cZt3D0uue1Y7vxQnUNSFGC2A%2BMHGuXyiSdqDaSYL2w6DM85BZXhFH%2B1eOgbkXB%2FEIBLjJJiKgbUks0Z1S7R3mJX%2FRM3uyXaySGuQtI26owYEzrvZ8nHtsq4SW4K%2F4zrv5d2iClim2vA4gK1x1j29sW569npqXJtbUqcxaR94t9ysgktPG%2FfSpHqd4o6R%2Fzudl%2B6Ww3%2FbmZm%2BDBbx1JWF1ZZ0PzMFvkQcgZUGoqXQUotR60%2BOVrLk5H27Gvq1%2FGs%2BANC17Kd7jHT3h91SWwUgeDe4O4uf%2BLZ2hkOUGcr8cgoNQnYK7kczBsfs8A3ybMDuDIUVTdM3UFXpFTZXVqg%3D%3D|cksum%3A3835657400136ee460c97e55433c906e775df77bac7f|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

Thanks for all the information and I am sure it will be a great help. Also the links is just what I need .What sort of solder are you using ? Also I think for what I will be using it for I think the electric one will be fine for me together with your recommended flux. That should get me going at least. Best regards Dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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Any soft solder will be ok - I still prefer the old type with the higher lead content it just flows better.  Just have a good practice on something that doesn't matter and you will be ok.  I should have said that the Powerflow flux is for soldering metals together only;  never use this stuff on electrical connections.  

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2 hours ago, No Idea said:

Any soft solder will be ok - I still prefer the old type with the higher lead content it just flows better.  Just have a good practice on something that doesn't matter and you will be ok.  I should have said that the Powerflow flux is for soldering metals together only;  never use this stuff on electrical connections.  

Cheers No Idea for all you have given me together with the help from everybody else. A lot to take in but thata what I like about the hobby.Best regards Dave

Completed     St Canute Billings            Dec 2020

Completed    HMS Bounty Amati          May 2021 Finished

Currently building HM Bark Endeavour  

 

 

 

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