Bob Cleek

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

If the paint isn't going to adhere to the metal surface, it will fail between the bottom coat and the metal. Adding more paint will do little, if anything, to make the bond between the metal and the paint any better than the paint alone. Adhesion difficulties on metal surfaces is but another reason why oil-based coatings are preferred over water-based acrylics by many modelers. That said, any yellow metal which is well-cleaned before painting with acetone or a similar solvent to remove any dirt or oil from handling and primed with a suitable metal primer coating should easily meet 100+ year archival standards. 

Thanks for your comment. I’ve not used clear top coat to this point, and I can see some problems with it if I have to retouch something it will not match. I’ve put a lot of hard work into the detail and I don’t want to hide it, but at the same time, acrylic paint doesn’t like to stick well to brass, even after roughing the surface and proper primer. So I thought maybe, just maybe an acrylic finish would help. But I’m no paint expert.

Yep, no question about that. This is one reason why I've avoided acrylics over the years. They cure to a relatively soft and flexible surface. Rubber doesn't sand well at all. 
The drier the better. Acrylic paint continues to harden slowly after an initial curing to a tack-free surface. The harder it is, the more easily it will sand. Again, this is one of the disadvantages of acrylic coatings.
Excellent advice always. But before anything else, I'd urge him to determine what type of paint he is using. Any chemical removal of the paint he has on there now has to be compatible with not only the paint he is removing, but also the plastic it's painted onto.
 

With help like that, who needs friends?
 
Sprayed with what? Oil-based enamel or water-based acrylic?
 
I would not advise trying to strip the paint off of plastic.  Isopropyl alcohol will remove some types of acrylic paint, but not all. Stripping the paint with any other sort of solvent runs the risk of softening the plastic. Your best bet is to wait until the paint is thoroughly hardened. Then sand, wet or dry doesn't matter. Wet is messy. Dry is dusty. There's no free lunch there.
 
That said, from the picture you posted it looks like your plastic hull isn't smooth, but rather has some raised surface lines there that look like they may be armor plating belts or the like. If that's the case, forget what I said about sanding. It would be very difficult for you to sand that area smooth and preserve the raised surface detail there. If the hull has surface detail, then chemically removing the paint is the only way to do it and preserve the surface detail. You will have to ascertain what solvent will remove the paint. If there is any instructions on the can about what solvent to use to clean up with, that will give you a good hint. Otherwise, call the manufacturer if you have to and ask them. Don't use any solvent until you are sure the plastic can withstand it. You can test solvents on some sprue material. If the solvent makes the plastic sticky, it's too "hot." One solvent that may work and is always worth having on hand anyway is called "Goof-Off." It will remove oil-based paint and acrylics if the acrylics haven't been curing for weeks. You can find it at any hardware store. It's sold for wiping up paint spatters. If you have to strip the surface, make sure that it's completely clear of any solvent residue afterwards because the solvent may react adversely to the paint you will be applying. Ignore the following information about sanding and start up again at the step where you apply your boot stripe masking tape. 
 
If you are sanding instead of stripping, you should sand the surface down until it is completely fair. Use a foam sanding block which will avoid your developing flat spots that you'd get from a hard block... or use your fingers. The goal is not to sand the "goof" fair at the expense of the surrounding area. You want to sand the whole surface fair without simply developing a smoothed "divot" in the overall surface. This is important because it will really show up when the whole surface is repainted if it's not perfectly faired into the whole surrounding surface. It looks like you have a fairly thick smear there, so you may wish to start with somewhere around a 320 or 400 grit paper and once you get it faired with that, then go over it again with a 600 grit. You want to get the whole area "smooth as a baby's bottom." Don't forget to carefully attend to the detail sanding around the through-hull on the side of the hull there, It needs it, too. Don't sand too aggressively with the larger grit sandpaper. If you sand too aggressively with heavy grit, you will likely see sanding swirls and scratches on the painted surface that will be difficult to remove with your finer grit paper.
 
After you've sanded it smooth dust it well and wipe it down with a "tack rag" which can be bought at any paint store. If you haven't encountered one of these before, it's just a piece of cheesecloth that is covered in some sort of slightly sticky stuff. They're cheap. Wiping the surface with a tack cloth will remove all traces of sanding dust on the surface. (Did I mention that sanding at your workbench and then immediately painting thereafter is asking for dust specks all over your paint job? Sand in one room. Paint in another.) If you fold your tack cloth carefully, you will see that it provides a lot of tacky surface and can be used a folded square at a time for a long time if you keep it sealed in a zip lock bag between uses. If you don't, it will dry up in a week or two. Don't apply your boot stripe masking tape until you've tacked the area well. Dust under the tape edge may cause paint to wick under the tape. (For this same reason, never lay a roll of masking tape on its side, especially on a dusty workbench top. It will pick up dust on the edge of the roll and you'll have dust all along the line you mask with it. Store masking tape in a zip-lock plastic bag and it will stay clean and not dry out over time.)
 
Once your hull is sanded and taped, tack it again immediately before you paint it. Then paint it. Good luck if you are using a "rattle can" to spray the paint. If you are lucky, you won't get spits and spatters out of it. wiping the nozzle with a clean rag and a bit of solvent before spraying is a good idea, as is testing your spray pattern on a piece of cardboard or the like before aiming it at the model to make sure it's working okay before committing to the real job. Spray it on in light coats. Begin the spraying beyond the end of the model and let up on the nozzle beyond the other end, holding the can level and at a right angle to the surface being sprayed. Don't bend your wrist to "brush" it with the spray pattern. This will vary the distance between your nozzle and the sprayed surface and result in an uneven application of paint. Don't apply too much paint. A thick coat runs the risk of runs or "curtains." It is best to apply several very light coats, letting them dry before applying another. 
 
It may be just the lighting, but it appears that you may not have even color coverage on the hull as it is. It's difficult to cover grey plastic with a red paint. You end up with a somewhat darker color red when the red paint doesn't fully cover the grey plastic. covering any dark color like grey with a lighter color is very difficult and if the top coat is not evenly applied there will be color differences noticeable. If the top coat is is applied thickly enough to cover the dark color below it completely, it may have to be so thick that it obliterates surface detail or causes other problems when drying such as a "crackle" finish. If your red bottom paint color didn't cover the grey completely the first time around (and you didn't apply way too much red to try to accomplish that) you should consider applying a neutral opaque undercoat to ensure an even color. This paint has a high volume of pigment and is designed to cover very well without applying an excessively thick coat. Spray opaque undercoat is available anywhere the paint you are using is sold.
 
You may well be aware of all these little details, but I added them while I was at it because others with less experience may be reading this post and the whole "tutorial" may be helpful to them.
 
Good luck with it. "Goofs" just go with the territory. Don't beat yourself up over it, but maybe you might want to keep that friend out of your modeling shop in the future, though.  

In an attempt to drop an anchor to prevent further "thread drift," I suggest those interested in the impact of the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 has on ship modeling read the applicable statutes and draw their own conclusions:
 
18 U.S. Code § 1159. Misrepresentation of Indian produced goods and products
(a) It is unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good, with or without a Government trademark, in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian or Indian tribe or Indian arts and crafts organization, resident within the United States. (Bold emphasis added.)
 
The essential element of this prohibited act is offering or displaying anything for sale in any way that falsely suggests it was made by an Indian.
 
The Indian Arts and Crafts Board enforces the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 that prohibits false advertising in the marketing of Indian arts or crafts. The Board also provides certified Indian-owned business listings, provides federally recognized tribes with business assistance, and operates several Indian Arts and Crafts museums. See: https://www.doi.gov/iacb/  The particular applications of the IACA are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations,Title 25, Chapter II, Part 309 (https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-25/chapter-II/part-309) :
 
§ 309.1 How do the regulations in this part carry out the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990?
These regulations define the nature and Indian origin of products protected by the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 (18 U.S.C. 1159, 25 U.S.C. 305 et seq.) from false representations, and specify how the Indian Arts and Crafts Board will interpret certain conduct for enforcement purposes. The Act makes it unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian, or Indian tribe, or Indian arts and crafts organization resident within the United States.
 
§ 309.9 When can non-Indians make and sell products in the style of Indian arts and crafts?
A non-Indian can make and sell products in the style of Indian art or craft products only if the non-Indian or other seller does not falsely suggest to consumers that the products have been made by an Indian.
[68 FR 35170, June 12, 2003] 
 
The IACA only addresses false advertising. It was enacted in large measure to prevent the practice of selling Asian knock-offs of Indian arts and crafts as real Indian handicrafts.
 
The IACA doesn't address nor attempt to enforce claimed rights to designs, patents, and trademarks which is the province of intellectual property law. For example, the Navajo Nation trademarked traditional Navajo weaving patterns and designs, as well as the brand "Navajo," as early as 1943. The Navajos' rights to those designs, patents, and trademarks properly registered under applicable laws are clear and enforceable. However, Indian intellectual property rights beyond formal patents, trademarks, and copyrights become much less clear. Questions arise as to the ownership of cultural rights claimed by an entire group of Indians. There are also religious rights protected by law which inure to various Indian tribes. Questions arise such as whether a non-Indian person can build an "Indian sweat lodge" for commercial purposes because it is an activity reserved to certain tribal spiritual traditions, or copy a sacred symbol, and so on.
 
Therefore, if one were to undertake to build a model of an Indian canoe with painted Indian symbols on it, and not display or offer it for sale misrepresenting that it was an Indian art or craft item, it doesn't appear they would be violating the IACA, but they could nevertheless be violating an  Indian intellectual property right in the reproduction of copyrighted Indian symbols on the canoe, no differently than they arguably would be violating Coca-Cola's trademark rights if they painted a Coca-Cola logo on the side of the model, or they might be violating an Indian cultural or religious practice right if the symbols were sacred to the involved Indian tribe. (The Urban Outfitters clothing company recently got themselves entangled in an expensive lawsuit when they made and sold underwear in Navajo weaving pattern prints. The Navajo were offended by the prospect of "skid marks" on their traditional patterns.) Similarly, all else being permissible, even the use of the name of a tribe to describe the type of canoe, e.g., "Tlinglit canoe" or "Haida canoe," could run afoul of the IACA without a prominent disclaimer that it was not made by an Indian (e.g., "Tlinglit type canoe" or "Haida style canoe" and labeled "Not Indian Made.") or violate a copyright if the tribe has registered its name as the Navajos did eighty years ago. However, I would imagine that if one politely contacted the applicable tribal council and respectfully requested written permission to reproduce a tribal design or symbol on a model canoe that was not being made for commercial purposes, they would probably get a welcome reception. That would be, after all, the polite thing to do.
 
 
 
 
 
 

PVA is all you'll need. You can get that at any hardware or craft store. The same goes for tools. You'll not need many tools for those kits and it's better to buy tools when you know you need them than when you think you'll need them. The nice thing about ship modeling is that I don't think there are any tools that you must have to do it. Just tools that make it easier to do as you go along.

Real sailors don't get sea sick.  
 
Buckets are relatively inconvenient things on a sailing ship. They tend to slide around if left to their own devices and are prone to getting knocked over. I doubt a chamber pot was ever carried on a naval ship in the Age of Sail unless there were a lady aboard. Emptying a bucket over the side of a three-decker isn't all that easy. Even after you get up onto the rail you've got to clear the not-inconsiderable tumblehome when pitching a full bucket overboard. 

For those interested in such things, see: Hygienic Notes on Ships' Bilges | Proceedings - 1876 Vol. 2/1/2 (usni.org)
 
One wonders exactly what the Navy was so concerned about disinfecting in the bilges of Navy vessels. 

I expect limber chains (or rope line, considering the cost of chain in earlier times) would certainly have been run through the limber holes in the bilge when the condition of the average bilge during the Age of Sail is considered if for no other reason than that the bilge's usual contents were highly likely to clog the limber holes. Especially in foul weather, although likely in any instance where it was simply more convenient, the bilges were used to answer "nature's call" be it "number one" or "number two." A modeler need only consider the number of souls aboard a ship-of-the-line and the number of "seats of ease" provided in the heads and the officer's cabins to confirm that there was a decided shortage of "facilities" aboard a sailing vessel of any size. Consequently, the contents of any bilge would hardly be susceptible to being willingly "cleaned out manually." At the moment, I can't remember where, but I once read someplace that one of the most onerous tasks aboard ship was cleaning the bilge and for that reason it was generally left for the shipyard workers when a ship was being refitted rather than ever by the crew when she was in commission. 

PVA is all you'll need. You can get that at any hardware or craft store. The same goes for tools. You'll not need many tools for those kits and it's better to buy tools when you know you need them than when you think you'll need them. The nice thing about ship modeling is that I don't think there are any tools that you must have to do it. Just tools that make it easier to do as you go along.

PVA is all you'll need. You can get that at any hardware or craft store. The same goes for tools. You'll not need many tools for those kits and it's better to buy tools when you know you need them than when you think you'll need them. The nice thing about ship modeling is that I don't think there are any tools that you must have to do it. Just tools that make it easier to do as you go along.

Real sailors don't get sea sick.  
 
Buckets are relatively inconvenient things on a sailing ship. They tend to slide around if left to their own devices and are prone to getting knocked over. I doubt a chamber pot was ever carried on a naval ship in the Age of Sail unless there were a lady aboard. Emptying a bucket over the side of a three-decker isn't all that easy. Even after you get up onto the rail you've got to clear the not-inconsiderable tumblehome when pitching a full bucket overboard. 

Thank you for the nice explanation, very helpful to newbie like me  

Model Shipways Shipwright Series combo is the ticket.  I have it in the check out.  All I need is recommendations for glue and tools before hitting the button. 

In an attempt to drop an anchor to prevent further "thread drift," I suggest those interested in the impact of the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 has on ship modeling read the applicable statutes and draw their own conclusions:
 
18 U.S. Code § 1159. Misrepresentation of Indian produced goods and products
(a) It is unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good, with or without a Government trademark, in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian or Indian tribe or Indian arts and crafts organization, resident within the United States. (Bold emphasis added.)
 
The essential element of this prohibited act is offering or displaying anything for sale in any way that falsely suggests it was made by an Indian.
 
The Indian Arts and Crafts Board enforces the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 that prohibits false advertising in the marketing of Indian arts or crafts. The Board also provides certified Indian-owned business listings, provides federally recognized tribes with business assistance, and operates several Indian Arts and Crafts museums. See: https://www.doi.gov/iacb/  The particular applications of the IACA are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations,Title 25, Chapter II, Part 309 (https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-25/chapter-II/part-309) :
 
§ 309.1 How do the regulations in this part carry out the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990?
These regulations define the nature and Indian origin of products protected by the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 (18 U.S.C. 1159, 25 U.S.C. 305 et seq.) from false representations, and specify how the Indian Arts and Crafts Board will interpret certain conduct for enforcement purposes. The Act makes it unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian, or Indian tribe, or Indian arts and crafts organization resident within the United States.
 
§ 309.9 When can non-Indians make and sell products in the style of Indian arts and crafts?
A non-Indian can make and sell products in the style of Indian art or craft products only if the non-Indian or other seller does not falsely suggest to consumers that the products have been made by an Indian.
[68 FR 35170, June 12, 2003] 
 
The IACA only addresses false advertising. It was enacted in large measure to prevent the practice of selling Asian knock-offs of Indian arts and crafts as real Indian handicrafts.
 
The IACA doesn't address nor attempt to enforce claimed rights to designs, patents, and trademarks which is the province of intellectual property law. For example, the Navajo Nation trademarked traditional Navajo weaving patterns and designs, as well as the brand "Navajo," as early as 1943. The Navajos' rights to those designs, patents, and trademarks properly registered under applicable laws are clear and enforceable. However, Indian intellectual property rights beyond formal patents, trademarks, and copyrights become much less clear. Questions arise as to the ownership of cultural rights claimed by an entire group of Indians. There are also religious rights protected by law which inure to various Indian tribes. Questions arise such as whether a non-Indian person can build an "Indian sweat lodge" for commercial purposes because it is an activity reserved to certain tribal spiritual traditions, or copy a sacred symbol, and so on.
 
Therefore, if one were to undertake to build a model of an Indian canoe with painted Indian symbols on it, and not display or offer it for sale misrepresenting that it was an Indian art or craft item, it doesn't appear they would be violating the IACA, but they could nevertheless be violating an  Indian intellectual property right in the reproduction of copyrighted Indian symbols on the canoe, no differently than they arguably would be violating Coca-Cola's trademark rights if they painted a Coca-Cola logo on the side of the model, or they might be violating an Indian cultural or religious practice right if the symbols were sacred to the involved Indian tribe. (The Urban Outfitters clothing company recently got themselves entangled in an expensive lawsuit when they made and sold underwear in Navajo weaving pattern prints. The Navajo were offended by the prospect of "skid marks" on their traditional patterns.) Similarly, all else being permissible, even the use of the name of a tribe to describe the type of canoe, e.g., "Tlinglit canoe" or "Haida canoe," could run afoul of the IACA without a prominent disclaimer that it was not made by an Indian (e.g., "Tlinglit type canoe" or "Haida style canoe" and labeled "Not Indian Made.") or violate a copyright if the tribe has registered its name as the Navajos did eighty years ago. However, I would imagine that if one politely contacted the applicable tribal council and respectfully requested written permission to reproduce a tribal design or symbol on a model canoe that was not being made for commercial purposes, they would probably get a welcome reception. That would be, after all, the polite thing to do.
 
 
 
 
 
 

The following is mostly accurate - it is easier to write in absolutes, yet almost nothing really is:
 
Collecting ship model kits is mostly a total expense.  An investment ain't in it.  You may as well collect full Kleenex boxes.
 
As an entry for wooden models of sailing ships,  plastic kits are a negative preparation.  Unrealistic expectations about what instructions will provide must be overcome. I have a sense that some have been so frustrated and indignant over the nature of especially older kit instructions that they have abandoned wooden ship modeling.  An "I'll show them." response.  They did not accept that learning  esoteric and difficult new "language" and skills  is necessary,  It is the challenge of the thing that is a great appeal.  It is not something that can be totally mastered.  It is finite,  but that number is much bigger than a lifetime.
 
Plastic is mostly a really terrible to use to replicate a wooden vessel.  If you care about wooden ships, use wood to model them.  You sorta have to do it to understand the difference in feel.
Plastic is much better than wood to replicate a steel vessel.

 

With help like that, who needs friends?
 
Sprayed with what? Oil-based enamel or water-based acrylic?
 
I would not advise trying to strip the paint off of plastic.  Isopropyl alcohol will remove some types of acrylic paint, but not all. Stripping the paint with any other sort of solvent runs the risk of softening the plastic. Your best bet is to wait until the paint is thoroughly hardened. Then sand, wet or dry doesn't matter. Wet is messy. Dry is dusty. There's no free lunch there.
 
That said, from the picture you posted it looks like your plastic hull isn't smooth, but rather has some raised surface lines there that look like they may be armor plating belts or the like. If that's the case, forget what I said about sanding. It would be very difficult for you to sand that area smooth and preserve the raised surface detail there. If the hull has surface detail, then chemically removing the paint is the only way to do it and preserve the surface detail. You will have to ascertain what solvent will remove the paint. If there is any instructions on the can about what solvent to use to clean up with, that will give you a good hint. Otherwise, call the manufacturer if you have to and ask them. Don't use any solvent until you are sure the plastic can withstand it. You can test solvents on some sprue material. If the solvent makes the plastic sticky, it's too "hot." One solvent that may work and is always worth having on hand anyway is called "Goof-Off." It will remove oil-based paint and acrylics if the acrylics haven't been curing for weeks. You can find it at any hardware store. It's sold for wiping up paint spatters. If you have to strip the surface, make sure that it's completely clear of any solvent residue afterwards because the solvent may react adversely to the paint you will be applying. Ignore the following information about sanding and start up again at the step where you apply your boot stripe masking tape. 
 
If you are sanding instead of stripping, you should sand the surface down until it is completely fair. Use a foam sanding block which will avoid your developing flat spots that you'd get from a hard block... or use your fingers. The goal is not to sand the "goof" fair at the expense of the surrounding area. You want to sand the whole surface fair without simply developing a smoothed "divot" in the overall surface. This is important because it will really show up when the whole surface is repainted if it's not perfectly faired into the whole surrounding surface. It looks like you have a fairly thick smear there, so you may wish to start with somewhere around a 320 or 400 grit paper and once you get it faired with that, then go over it again with a 600 grit. You want to get the whole area "smooth as a baby's bottom." Don't forget to carefully attend to the detail sanding around the through-hull on the side of the hull there, It needs it, too. Don't sand too aggressively with the larger grit sandpaper. If you sand too aggressively with heavy grit, you will likely see sanding swirls and scratches on the painted surface that will be difficult to remove with your finer grit paper.
 
After you've sanded it smooth dust it well and wipe it down with a "tack rag" which can be bought at any paint store. If you haven't encountered one of these before, it's just a piece of cheesecloth that is covered in some sort of slightly sticky stuff. They're cheap. Wiping the surface with a tack cloth will remove all traces of sanding dust on the surface. (Did I mention that sanding at your workbench and then immediately painting thereafter is asking for dust specks all over your paint job? Sand in one room. Paint in another.) If you fold your tack cloth carefully, you will see that it provides a lot of tacky surface and can be used a folded square at a time for a long time if you keep it sealed in a zip lock bag between uses. If you don't, it will dry up in a week or two. Don't apply your boot stripe masking tape until you've tacked the area well. Dust under the tape edge may cause paint to wick under the tape. (For this same reason, never lay a roll of masking tape on its side, especially on a dusty workbench top. It will pick up dust on the edge of the roll and you'll have dust all along the line you mask with it. Store masking tape in a zip-lock plastic bag and it will stay clean and not dry out over time.)
 
Once your hull is sanded and taped, tack it again immediately before you paint it. Then paint it. Good luck if you are using a "rattle can" to spray the paint. If you are lucky, you won't get spits and spatters out of it. wiping the nozzle with a clean rag and a bit of solvent before spraying is a good idea, as is testing your spray pattern on a piece of cardboard or the like before aiming it at the model to make sure it's working okay before committing to the real job. Spray it on in light coats. Begin the spraying beyond the end of the model and let up on the nozzle beyond the other end, holding the can level and at a right angle to the surface being sprayed. Don't bend your wrist to "brush" it with the spray pattern. This will vary the distance between your nozzle and the sprayed surface and result in an uneven application of paint. Don't apply too much paint. A thick coat runs the risk of runs or "curtains." It is best to apply several very light coats, letting them dry before applying another. 
 
It may be just the lighting, but it appears that you may not have even color coverage on the hull as it is. It's difficult to cover grey plastic with a red paint. You end up with a somewhat darker color red when the red paint doesn't fully cover the grey plastic. covering any dark color like grey with a lighter color is very difficult and if the top coat is not evenly applied there will be color differences noticeable. If the top coat is is applied thickly enough to cover the dark color below it completely, it may have to be so thick that it obliterates surface detail or causes other problems when drying such as a "crackle" finish. If your red bottom paint color didn't cover the grey completely the first time around (and you didn't apply way too much red to try to accomplish that) you should consider applying a neutral opaque undercoat to ensure an even color. This paint has a high volume of pigment and is designed to cover very well without applying an excessively thick coat. Spray opaque undercoat is available anywhere the paint you are using is sold.
 
You may well be aware of all these little details, but I added them while I was at it because others with less experience may be reading this post and the whole "tutorial" may be helpful to them.
 
Good luck with it. "Goofs" just go with the territory. Don't beat yourself up over it, but maybe you might want to keep that friend out of your modeling shop in the future, though.  

In an attempt to drop an anchor to prevent further "thread drift," I suggest those interested in the impact of the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 has on ship modeling read the applicable statutes and draw their own conclusions:
 
18 U.S. Code § 1159. Misrepresentation of Indian produced goods and products
(a) It is unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good, with or without a Government trademark, in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian or Indian tribe or Indian arts and crafts organization, resident within the United States. (Bold emphasis added.)
 
The essential element of this prohibited act is offering or displaying anything for sale in any way that falsely suggests it was made by an Indian.
 
The Indian Arts and Crafts Board enforces the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 that prohibits false advertising in the marketing of Indian arts or crafts. The Board also provides certified Indian-owned business listings, provides federally recognized tribes with business assistance, and operates several Indian Arts and Crafts museums. See: https://www.doi.gov/iacb/  The particular applications of the IACA are set forth in the Code of Federal Regulations,Title 25, Chapter II, Part 309 (https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-25/chapter-II/part-309) :
 
§ 309.1 How do the regulations in this part carry out the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990?
These regulations define the nature and Indian origin of products protected by the Indian Arts and Crafts Act of 1990 (18 U.S.C. 1159, 25 U.S.C. 305 et seq.) from false representations, and specify how the Indian Arts and Crafts Board will interpret certain conduct for enforcement purposes. The Act makes it unlawful to offer or display for sale or sell any good in a manner that falsely suggests it is Indian produced, an Indian product, or the product of a particular Indian, or Indian tribe, or Indian arts and crafts organization resident within the United States.
 
§ 309.9 When can non-Indians make and sell products in the style of Indian arts and crafts?
A non-Indian can make and sell products in the style of Indian art or craft products only if the non-Indian or other seller does not falsely suggest to consumers that the products have been made by an Indian.
[68 FR 35170, June 12, 2003] 
 
The IACA only addresses false advertising. It was enacted in large measure to prevent the practice of selling Asian knock-offs of Indian arts and crafts as real Indian handicrafts.
 
The IACA doesn't address nor attempt to enforce claimed rights to designs, patents, and trademarks which is the province of intellectual property law. For example, the Navajo Nation trademarked traditional Navajo weaving patterns and designs, as well as the brand "Navajo," as early as 1943. The Navajos' rights to those designs, patents, and trademarks properly registered under applicable laws are clear and enforceable. However, Indian intellectual property rights beyond formal patents, trademarks, and copyrights become much less clear. Questions arise as to the ownership of cultural rights claimed by an entire group of Indians. There are also religious rights protected by law which inure to various Indian tribes. Questions arise such as whether a non-Indian person can build an "Indian sweat lodge" for commercial purposes because it is an activity reserved to certain tribal spiritual traditions, or copy a sacred symbol, and so on.
 
Therefore, if one were to undertake to build a model of an Indian canoe with painted Indian symbols on it, and not display or offer it for sale misrepresenting that it was an Indian art or craft item, it doesn't appear they would be violating the IACA, but they could nevertheless be violating an  Indian intellectual property right in the reproduction of copyrighted Indian symbols on the canoe, no differently than they arguably would be violating Coca-Cola's trademark rights if they painted a Coca-Cola logo on the side of the model, or they might be violating an Indian cultural or religious practice right if the symbols were sacred to the involved Indian tribe. (The Urban Outfitters clothing company recently got themselves entangled in an expensive lawsuit when they made and sold underwear in Navajo weaving pattern prints. The Navajo were offended by the prospect of "skid marks" on their traditional patterns.) Similarly, all else being permissible, even the use of the name of a tribe to describe the type of canoe, e.g., "Tlinglit canoe" or "Haida canoe," could run afoul of the IACA without a prominent disclaimer that it was not made by an Indian (e.g., "Tlinglit type canoe" or "Haida style canoe" and labeled "Not Indian Made.") or violate a copyright if the tribe has registered its name as the Navajos did eighty years ago. However, I would imagine that if one politely contacted the applicable tribal council and respectfully requested written permission to reproduce a tribal design or symbol on a model canoe that was not being made for commercial purposes, they would probably get a welcome reception. That would be, after all, the polite thing to do.
 
 
 
 
 
 

I suspect "MGUS" is a sub-diagnosis for the wider, but less frequently publicized, diagnosis, "HIIK," which stands for "Hell if I know." There's a lot of that going around. I fortunately do not have any significant "foot drop" (knock on wood,) but I did develop a pronounced "shuffle," mainly because my numb feet impaired my balance, a function I never realized they performed until the didn't.  My "foredeck ape" days are over also, but I long ago became unable to afford to keep up with the old yachtsman's rule of thumb that your boat should be as long in feet as your age in years anyway.

Most will. Many will even replace parts you've botched up yourself! It would be good to do a search on this forum to see the policy of any particular kit manufacturer regarding parts availability. The second consideration after you confirm that they do have a part replacement policy is to confirm that they are able to provide parts for the model kit you have. Sometimes, a run of kits are manufactured and stocked by the manufacturer but spare parts are no longer available. Sometimes parts are generic and used for several different models in the manufacturer's line. (Which is why you will find out-of-scale or out of period fittings on the models sold by some manufacturers. E.g., an 19th Century anchor in a 18th Century model kit!) or some parts for a specific model kit are left over after the kit production run. Other times, Spare parts have been sold or are otherwise no longer in stock and you will probably be out of luck even it the company would have been happy to send you a replacement part if they still had any in stock.
 
Regarding purchasing kits in current production, I think that most experienced modelers would strongly advise you to start your wooden model building learning curve with the Model Shipways Shipwright Series of kits. See: Model Shipways Shipwright Series (modelexpo-online.com) Few kit manufacturers are as forthright as Model Shipways is in telling beginning wooden ship modelers the realities of the hobby's learning curve and the fact that there is no point in wasting a large amount of money and effort trying to build a square-rigged ship-of-the line bristling with cannon as your first attempted kit build!
 
 
 
 
 

You are correct. I've read the same thing. However, being the cheapskate I am, I've always used Zinsser Clear Shellac (containing some natural waxes) because it's s two-thirds the price of Zinsser Seal Coat which is their dewaxed shellac. Ten bucks a quart is a fairly big difference. I've never noticed any problem with waxed shellac at all, even with acrylic paints. I don't use a lot of acrylic paint though and stick to enamels and artists' oils for brush and spray painting. Maybe I've just been lucky. Who knows?

I expect limber chains (or rope line, considering the cost of chain in earlier times) would certainly have been run through the limber holes in the bilge when the condition of the average bilge during the Age of Sail is considered if for no other reason than that the bilge's usual contents were highly likely to clog the limber holes. Especially in foul weather, although likely in any instance where it was simply more convenient, the bilges were used to answer "nature's call" be it "number one" or "number two." A modeler need only consider the number of souls aboard a ship-of-the-line and the number of "seats of ease" provided in the heads and the officer's cabins to confirm that there was a decided shortage of "facilities" aboard a sailing vessel of any size. Consequently, the contents of any bilge would hardly be susceptible to being willingly "cleaned out manually." At the moment, I can't remember where, but I once read someplace that one of the most onerous tasks aboard ship was cleaning the bilge and for that reason it was generally left for the shipyard workers when a ship was being refitted rather than ever by the crew when she was in commission. 

Same here. I think the fingers and toes, hands and feet, usually come as a package. Mine in my fingers doesn't bother me as much as it used to as well. I never figured out whether it was my  nerves finding other circuits to use or just my imagination! As we know, once the damage is done, it's irreversible. Mine was my own damn fault. I just ignored symptoms I should have recognized and done something about until I ended up on a gurney in the ER with a blood glucose level in excess of 500 that they picked up on a blood test taken for a long overdue routine physical. Dodged a diabetic coma in the nick of time. Denial ain't just a river in Egypt! Fortunately, there was no other permanent damage! A word to the wise: We're all supermen until we're not!