Bob Cleek

I can't say whether these models were made in Singapore, Vietnam, or Mauritius or not, but they are the sort of product that small ship model factories in countries with developing economies are now turning out for the mass export. Singapore and Vietnam seem to have well-established ship model building industries. Mauritius has been the most prolific exporter of ship models since the last quarter of the 20th Century. Selling ship models for export is apparently a significant segment of the economy of this tiny island nation. Their product quality range runs from the almost crude to the very well-done. It's quite fascinating to see how they build these models on an assembly line basis. It's even more amazing that they can turn a profit doing so! Certainly, the people working in these small factories can't be making much at all. I expect much of the profit goes to the middle men who import the product and resell it around the world, but still and all, the Mauritians must be making enough building them for it to be worth their while to do so.
 
Check out these websites. While we will all lament that we often can't even give away our completed models, there's a whole industry out there selling ship models to an apparently viable customer base. 
 
See: http://customwoodhandicrafts.com/custom-wood-model-ships/ 
       https://hoiancraftships.com/ 
       https://silhoutech.com/
       http://aemodels.com/AE-MODELS-TEAM-PTE-LTD.-Services-Ship-Rig-Models-Rig-model-supplier-Singapore-Model-makers-in-Singapore
       https://bobatoshipmodels.com/ 
       https://historic-marine.com/ 
       https://le-port-ship-model-factory-and-showroom.business.site/ 
       https://mautourco.com/model-ship-building-works-of-art/
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
https://www.bbc.com/news/av/business-43432017
 

I make spherical parts from brass using a punzel and a lead plate.

I have not found an adhesive that would bond brass, copper, etc. to a wooden hull with any confidence that the bond would not fail over time.  Even Epoxy seems iffy.  Some joints are secure, some can be easily peeled off.  I tried 3M transfer tape recommended by the guys that build models for the Navy.  The plates easily peeled away from the hull.
 
I finally used add free paper saturated with shellac and glued to the hull with PVA glue.  It worked!
 
Roger

I give you Thistle
 
I would like to start by thanking all of you have who have encouraged me and followed my build over these past two years.

To say that I have learned a lot, from drafting the plans to the actual build, would be an understatement. This was my first true scratch-built model and I am glad that I did it.  I have discovered ways to do things wrong that truly amaze even me.  I have also discovered that the eyes are not as sharp as they once were and the fingers less nimble.  While Thistle will never be in a contest, the soon to be cased Thistle will proudly reside next to my fireplace. 
 
Thank you all again. LJP



 

Well, it certainly looks like you are well on your way to success! Beautifully done, clean, crisp work. It looks perfect, 

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

If it's bees' wax, I'd think it would not be  a good idea. Bees' wax tends to be acidic and over time could cause the thread to become weakened.
 
Wax of any kind on rigging thread can attract and hold dust. 
 
At "scale viewing distances," there's no observable shine to tarred rigging.  If a coating is required on rigging thread, clear shellac is a good option and is invisible once dry. 

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

Have you tried binder clips? Handy and cheap. Lots of different sizes available.
 

The clamps in question are called “C Clamps” or in Great Britain “G Clamps.”  A well equipped shop never has enough of them.  They are readily available commercially in sizes from 1/2 in to over 12in. Any store selling tools should offer a selection.   Mine range from 1in to 8in and I use them constantly, from clamping tiny brass parts for soldering to clamping an entire hull under my drill press.
 
Much of what I know about woodworking, I learned from my father, a builder of Ship models, boats, buildings, and even an airplane.  He taught me when clamping wood to always include wood padding under then clamp screw to avoid marring the surface.
 
Roger

Thanks Bob.  Good point on it attracting dust, and weaken the rigging.  Will give it a miss and stick to paint or shellacked black rigging.  Just checking I wasn't missing some amazing new development in my absence from wooden ship building 🙂
 
Darren

Hi guys, hi Johann. Can you please help me. I am trying to find how to do certain knots like this one. Where did you find how to tie them?
 
The Ashley Book of Knots is generally recognized as one of the two encyclopedic works on knots of all kinds. It's been in print forever now and there are many used copies available online as well as new ones. It's a volume I expect anyone who has occasion to work with cordage of any kind to appreciate as an essential reference work. The Ashley Book of Knots: Clifford W. Ashley: 9780385040259: Amazon.com: Books
 
 
 
The Arts of the Sailor by Hervey Garrett Smith is another classic on the subject of rigging and fancy rope work. It's not encyclopedic, but it has much of the basics.
 

 
 
 Another encyclopedic work is the Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work by Hensel and Graumont.  Encyclopedia of Knots and Fancy Rope Work: Hensel, John, Graumont, Raoul: 9780870330216: Amazon.com: Books  Similar to Ashley's above, this volume purports to describe every knot known to man and probably can claim the record for that notwithstanding Ashley's similar claim.  While Ashley's is entertainingly illustrated with many drawings and is done in "coffee table" style, Ashley's organizes its knots by the purposes and trades which commonly employ the particular knots, while "Graumont and Hensel" is organized by type of knot as defined by the knot type's mechanics and so is organized by chapters on knots, bends, hitches, and so on. "Graumont and Hensel" is a much more academic and dry reference work illustrated with black and white photographs. 
 

 
The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast - 1600-1720 by Anderson is another valuable classic which was written specifically for ship modelers. It specifically addresses the period between 1600 and 1720. The Rigging of Ships: in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 (Dover Maritime): Anderson, R. C.: 9780486279602: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
Some have found Peterson's Rigging Period Ship Models helpful, although it has been criticized with apparent validity for suffering some inaccuracies. Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-By-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig: PETERSSON, Lennarth: 9781848321021: Amazon.com: Books
 

 
 
There are other more period-specific books on rigging and rope work. These are contemporary works and quite technical. Two of these are available in PDF format for free on the MSW forum website in the drop-down menu at the top of the forum homepage.  Both happen to be called The Art of Rigging. One is by David Steel and the other by George Biddlecomb and are usually  referenced simply as "Steel's" and "Biddlecomb." TheArtOfRigging-Steel.pdf (thenrg.org)    The art of rigging (thenrg.org)
 
Many of these reference books address full-size work and not miniature model-making, but reducing full-size prototypes to scale is what we are about, so it's an easy enough task to tie our knots smaller with smaller rope, or to develop ways of faking it to accommodate our smaller scales. As far as tying small knots, I suggest anybody who's interested in tying rigging knots should spend some time searching YouTube for videos on "surgical instrument knot tying" or "instrument suture tying" and the like. There are many instructional videos, many posted by medical schools, demonstrating how to tie very small knots in very confined spaces using surgical instruments which can easily be purchased for little money on eBay and other sites. These are easily learned basic techniques of great practical value to modelers.
 
For example:
 
 
 

Not me and I've been using it for going on fifty years or so. Of course, a museum professional will tell you it's not "Class I archival" unless it has a hundred-year life span and we can't know that just yet.  What you want to steer clear of is anything that "out-gasses" acidic fumes, especially if your model will be cased (as it should be if you think it is worth keeping.)  There are some very valuable articles in the "Articles Database" and "More" drop-down menus that every modeler would do well to read. These should answer your questions about materials longevity. Some consider obsessing about the archival qualities of modeling materials is a bit "over the top," and maybe it is. Everybody's mileage may differ, but for my money, I see all aspects of ship modeling as an exercise in striving to "do the common thing uncommonly well," or at least as well as I am able to do it. Especially if one is building from scratch, you never know whether your one-of-a-kind model might be of some interest to someone else after you're gone. It doesn't take any more money or effort to use materials that will outlast us, so why not do so? 
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Journal - Vol 43 (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S. Naval Vessels (thenrg.org)
Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
 

This is called a rope seizing and is important to master if you wish to have authentic looking rigging. There are many ways to accomplish this and perhaps Johann will show us his method but here is a link to how it is done at full scale https://www.google.com/search?q=seizing+two+ropes+together&sxsrf=AB5stBhofT72a4wssD0pRmRKUL1XnUlYYg%3A1690640403559&source=hp&ei=EyDFZNLtH9PB0PEPuJWP4AU&iflsig=AD69kcEAAAAAZMUuIxxzRx15YmJ4avTPIokJnemZrVqH&ved=0ahUKEwiSw8eljrSAAxXTIDQIHbjKA1wQ4dUDCAs&uact=5&oq=seizing+two+ropes+together&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhpzZWl6aW5nIHR3byByb3BlcyB0b2dldGhlcjIFEAAYgAQyCBAAGIoFGIYDMggQABiKBRiGAzIIEAAYigUYhgMyCBAAGIoFGIYDSMw8UABYzzlwAHgAkAEAmAGjAaABtxeqAQQ0LjIyuAEDyAEA-AEBwgIHECMYigUYJ8ICBBAjGCfCAhcQLhiKBRjHARivARiYBRieBRiZBRiRAsICERAuGMcBGLEDGNEDGIoFGJECwgIREC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYxwEY0QPCAgsQLhiABBixAxiDAcICCxAuGIoFGLEDGIMBwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgsQABiABBixAxiDAcICCBAAGIoFGJECwgIOEC4YgAQYsQMYxwEY0QPCAgsQLhiABBjHARjRA8ICERAuGIAEGLEDGIMBGMcBGK8BwgIKEAAYigUYsQMYQ8ICBxAAGIoFGEPCAg4QABiKBRixAxiDARjJA8ICCBAAGIoFGJIDwgINEAAYigUYsQMYgwEYQ8ICDRAAGIAEGLEDGEYY-QHCAgUQLhiABMICBhAAGBYYHsICChAAGBYYHhgPGArCAggQABgWGB4YCg&sclient=gws-wiz#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:fab5c4d0,vid:FrxW_GvMn1Y

Not me and I've been using it for going on fifty years or so. Of course, a museum professional will tell you it's not "Class I archival" unless it has a hundred-year life span and we can't know that just yet.  What you want to steer clear of is anything that "out-gasses" acidic fumes, especially if your model will be cased (as it should be if you think it is worth keeping.)  There are some very valuable articles in the "Articles Database" and "More" drop-down menus that every modeler would do well to read. These should answer your questions about materials longevity. Some consider obsessing about the archival qualities of modeling materials is a bit "over the top," and maybe it is. Everybody's mileage may differ, but for my money, I see all aspects of ship modeling as an exercise in striving to "do the common thing uncommonly well," or at least as well as I am able to do it. Especially if one is building from scratch, you never know whether your one-of-a-kind model might be of some interest to someone else after you're gone. It doesn't take any more money or effort to use materials that will outlast us, so why not do so? 
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Journal - Vol 43 (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S. Naval Vessels (thenrg.org)
Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
 

@Bob Cleek  Thank you so much for the links to those articles.  You have saved me many troubles.
 
I had intended to get some lead shot for cannon balls.  Nope.
 
I was going to paint the inside of my bulwarks with water-based acrylic paint.  Nope.
 
PVA seems well regarded and stable. 
 
It was kind of Mr. Wegner to share his impressive expertise - what an interesting job!!
 
Great links Bob!!

Not me and I've been using it for going on fifty years or so. Of course, a museum professional will tell you it's not "Class I archival" unless it has a hundred-year life span and we can't know that just yet.  What you want to steer clear of is anything that "out-gasses" acidic fumes, especially if your model will be cased (as it should be if you think it is worth keeping.)  There are some very valuable articles in the "Articles Database" and "More" drop-down menus that every modeler would do well to read. These should answer your questions about materials longevity. Some consider obsessing about the archival qualities of modeling materials is a bit "over the top," and maybe it is. Everybody's mileage may differ, but for my money, I see all aspects of ship modeling as an exercise in striving to "do the common thing uncommonly well," or at least as well as I am able to do it. Especially if one is building from scratch, you never know whether your one-of-a-kind model might be of some interest to someone else after you're gone. It doesn't take any more money or effort to use materials that will outlast us, so why not do so? 
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Journal - Vol 43 (thenrg.org)
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S. Naval Vessels (thenrg.org)
Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
 

I'd urge you to test sanding the heads off of brass nails before you go inserting them on your workpiece. Wood, being a lot softer, sands much more easily than brass nails. If you want to secure planking, you can drill holes and glue wood or bamboo "dowels" into the holes or, as some do, insert pieces of nylon fishing line into the holes. These options are more than adequately strong.  

If it's bees' wax, I'd think it would not be  a good idea. Bees' wax tends to be acidic and over time could cause the thread to become weakened.
 
Wax of any kind on rigging thread can attract and hold dust. 
 
At "scale viewing distances," there's no observable shine to tarred rigging.  If a coating is required on rigging thread, clear shellac is a good option and is invisible once dry. 

I'd urge you to test sanding the heads off of brass nails before you go inserting them on your workpiece. Wood, being a lot softer, sands much more easily than brass nails. If you want to secure planking, you can drill holes and glue wood or bamboo "dowels" into the holes or, as some do, insert pieces of nylon fishing line into the holes. These options are more than adequately strong.  

I'd urge you to test sanding the heads off of brass nails before you go inserting them on your workpiece. Wood, being a lot softer, sands much more easily than brass nails. If you want to secure planking, you can drill holes and glue wood or bamboo "dowels" into the holes or, as some do, insert pieces of nylon fishing line into the holes. These options are more than adequately strong.  

I'd urge you to test sanding the heads off of brass nails before you go inserting them on your workpiece. Wood, being a lot softer, sands much more easily than brass nails. If you want to secure planking, you can drill holes and glue wood or bamboo "dowels" into the holes or, as some do, insert pieces of nylon fishing line into the holes. These options are more than adequately strong.  

It comes down to your objective in building your model.
 
If your goal is to produce a model that is as historically accurate as is reasonable, forgo any embossing or dimpling of the copper plates.
Way more nails were used than any punch tool will produce.
The nails were hammered flush.  They are difficult to see even on the existing 1:1 reproductions or the few survivors whose currently done copper plates are a joke when compared to the practice of 200 years ago. 
A model would have to be larger than 1:48 for visual evidence of how the plates were attached to be valid.
Any plates made of actual copper will be over scale thickness on 1:48 or smaller.  Think painted paper instead.
 
 

Paper?
 
I did a Google search just now for barrel making plans and a lot came up.

Thanks for the clarification! As I wrote, "Without looking at a carton in my hand right now, I'm going to guess and say that pumice is the finer abrasive powder and rottenstone is the coarser of the two." I was just too lazy to go out to my shop and check which was which.