UdoK

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

A very impressive model, looks great!

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

A very impressive model, looks great!

Hello,
thank you for compliments, i slowly working on the model, there are any next pics

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Thank you Antony,
my intention is to have the updates coming more often again.

HI ALL
SINCE I WAS OFF WORK LAST WEEK...AND THE WEATHER WAS ESPECIALLY LOUSY.....PLENTY OF TIME FOR SHIP BUILDING.
BEEN BUSY MAKING LADDERS,COAMING FOR THE CHIMNEY......TURNED FROM A PIECE OF BUFFALO HORN,AND STARTED WORK ON THE CAPSTAN.
PHOTOS ENCLOSED AS USUAL.....SOME PARTS ARE ONLY IN A PRELIMINARY STATE AND WILL NEED TO BE REFINED BEFORE FINAL FITTING.
 
THE GALLEY CHIMNEY WILL NEED SOME TLC AS WELL SEEMS TO HAVE GOT BASHED ABOUT!!
 
CHEERS.....MICK

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi all,
It's time to do something on the Bounty again.
 
The lower transom is planked with the supplied pear wood planks. In order to obtain the lateral bending of the planks, I made a template with the required radius of the planks, soaked the planks in water and allowed them to dry in the template.
 
Before the first belt of the wales had been cut and attached I made some plank clamps from a brass rod, threated rod M 3 and cherry wood.

Hi  Nils.
Thank you for your input.
Some more photos of the basic build.
All the bulkheads have now been faired to the required angle.
Next come the cutting of the rebate in the keel.

Putting a plank next to the keel and marking with a pencil.

Parts dissembled and rebate cut into keel. Rebate cut with a knife and filed to shape and size.

Planking done on the deck. Will put the treenails in later on  after planking the hull.

The cabins were planked after using the 3mm walls. 

Portholes and door were added 

 

The stern and bow decks were planked on to the laser cut shapes.

Edging being added to the rear decks.


Hand rails added (Note that the rear deck edging and the hand rails were all bored  at the same time with the Proxxon mill)

Hand rails not yet fixed

Stern and bow now planked. Garboard plank is being fitted.

Bow planked and Garboard plank part 1 is in place and glued.

Part 2 of the garboard plank will be in place this afternoon.

 
That's about it for now.
More updates as the build continuous.
 
Regards Antony.

Hi.
Welcome to the Chinese Pirate Junk build.
This is based on the Amati model and lines were taken from there plans.(with lots of modifications.)
The plans were modified with Adobe Illustrator CS2 which is my chosen software.
Extra bulkheads were added and some bulkheads were changed to match the lines that I wanted.
Junk Antony.pdf  My drawings converted into PDF.
The 6mm and 3mm plywood used to the decks and bulkheads were cut by Laser cutting service http://www.pbmodelmaking.co.uk/laser-cutting-service/4588356832
The cost off the Laser cutting plywood and postage UK. was  £32.00 + £7.50 postage
Always wanted to make a Junk so here it is. It will be a build and modify as I go build as the drawings will need to be redone with each change of part size.
6mm plywood parts shown below. 3mm parts were of the same quality.
   
 
The laser cutting was excellent and can recommend the supplier.
Fitting the bulkheads to the keel needed just a little sanding for a tight fit.

Parts assembled but Not glued yet as there are a lot of adjustments to be made.

The dowel is not necessary but I like to include in to the design to hold the boat straight.

The deck was made oversize for the laser cutting so it could be trimmed then the drawing updated.

 
Will post more later on this a afternoon.
Duty calls. 
Regards Antony.

Thanks for looking gentlemen.  I appreciate the likes and the comments.  
 
I've decided to live with the cannons as they are.  I did some further testing and still didn't like what I was getting as results.   Things were busy here and too late I realized I should have made several jigs as I decided (after some destructive testing) to use a thin epoxy that seemed to take forever to try.   I have 24 carriages assembled and pretty much cleaned up and parts for 5 more if I should royally mess some of the "good" ones up.  Now to convert the shop over to metal work as I need to blacken and install the fittings, do the rigging, and install.   Each gun will need 2 eyebolts on the carriage, 2 on the deck (for pulling the gun back from the port), and then 4 on the bulkhead at each port.  I'll be using Dafi's fine looking (and small) eyes and hooks for all this. My eyes are now crossed and I note that I've been mumbling to myself a lot the last day or two trying to get these finished.  Note that the two forward ports (1 on each side) will not be filled as these were "access ports" for lack of a better term.
 
Here's pics of the carriages in place for position and to run some checks.  Pierre is standing by for scale reference.  I'll pick the 10 best for the mid-ship area that's open and if any of the rest fail to met standards, I'll replace them with new ones.  Hopefully, in the next week or two, I'll also install all the furniture (oops.. need to make 2 "kitchens") and get rid of that blue tape.
 
 

 

 

 

 

HI ALL
I DECIDED TO REDO THE WATERWAYS TO INCLUDE A SCARF JOINT RATHER THAN A PLAIN BUTT JOIN.
THE SHAPE OF THE WATER WAY WAS ATTAINED WITH A PROFILE SCRAPER FASHIONED FROM A STANLEY BLADE.
CURRENTLY IN THE PROCESS OF BEING FITTED.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW....MICK

Since no log can be deemed complete without some overall photos of the finished model, mine are attached here.
 
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have followed this build, who have hit the "like" button, and, particularly, those who have provided their support and encouragement through their generous thoughts and comments. It is gratifying to have such an appreciative response from such a talented and accomplished group of modelers. Thanks again.
 
I hope to see you all on my new log for Prince de Neufchatel, which will be opened a little later today.
 
Bob

Done! Halifax is now completed. The last work was the swivel guns and the anchors.
 
The swivel guns were done using the barrel castings supplied by the Lumberyard, to which I added a handle made from wire with a small bead at the end. The mounting brackets were made from some brass backing links that I had on hand, which were bent to shape, a hole drilled, and a mounting pin inserted. The whole assemblies were painted black and glued in place.
 
The anchors were entirely made from boxwood strip. The "metal" portion of the anchors were painted black and the stocks were left natural. Simulated bolts were added to the stocks, as well as black painted paper bands. The rings are wire with puddening done by wrapping tan line around the wire. The anchors were then rigged and mounted.
 
I will post photos of the completed model in the next day or two, as well as starting a new log for my next project, Prince de Neufchatel, starting with the Model Shipways kit.
 
Bob
 
 

All of the rigging is now complete. Some health issues have limited my golf, which always means more modeling, resulting in a push to finish the rigging. This involved making, mounting and rigging the main lower and topmast yards, doing the braces for all of the yards, and, finally, tying off all of the lines and adding rope coils.
 
The making, mounting and rigging of the main yards followed identically the items and procedures for the fore yards, and won't be repeated here.
 
The lower yard braces were a bit of a challenge because they run to the shrouds on their opposite mast, making it difficult to give them tension without pulling the shrouds out of line. I think that I was finally able to do that.
 
By far the most difficult task was to tie off and add coils to the many lines that were hanging loosely as I proceeded through the rigging. The combination of tight spaces and aging hands that aren't quite as steady as they used to be made for a lot of bad language and a few 'timeouts".
 
All that remains to be done now are the swivel guns and the anchors.
 
Bob

Hello,
 
The hull, up to the whales is now planked. Here are some pictures.
 
Alexandru

I' am probably a bit late to the Party, but here a Photo I took on the Batavia which shows the dimensions..

The positions of the gunports has been determined and the boxes have been glued in place. To add more strenght to the boxes and create a bigger lip for the surrounding planks some extra strips have been installed.
In order to determine the run of the wales and position of the gunports all the bulkheads come with laser marks for each wale. Basically a good idea, but due to my decision to close the hull with plywood not many of the marks are still visible. So I had to take the dimensions off the drawings and transfer it to the hull.
Before starting the installation of the wales I did plank the concave area above the transom with basswod strips 1x4 and sanded them to shape. After one coat of sanding sealer and intermediate sanding several coats of a acrylic paint (Ivory) were applied.
Finally I have prepared the transom wales from a walnut strip 1,5 x 5 and glued them into position.
 
 

I' am probably a bit late to the Party, but here a Photo I took on the Batavia which shows the dimensions..