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Everything posted by Geoff Matson
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I spent the last few days making rope for the my Main Mast rigging. I will follow the same practice as I did on the foremast, rig as much as I can off the model. I also make up a lot of the other rigging line ahead of time so when I go to install everything I will be ready to go. The nice part about this is I will know ahead of time where all the lines will attach. This will hopefully prevent having to drill a eye bolt hole in the deck with everything installed and in the way. Here is a quick shot of my main helper going over the rigging with me
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Hey that Rattlesnake is looking pretty great. I remember when you started it. Thanks for your interest in the mouse. It was pretty basic, I just followed Bob's idea of taking a square piece of wood proper for the line size, drill a hole in the center the size of the line and file it into a cone shape. Then just painted it black and slipped on the line.
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.Here is a sight I just came across for cotton thread. http://www.discounte...derysupply.com/It is called Discount Embroidery Supply. I ordered some 40 wt and 80 wt cotton thread from them to make more smaller sizes of rope. They have a lot of thread and different sizes. Just check it out and it may help you out. Here are a few shots of making three strand 40 wt cotton thread
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Hello Dave. Here is a sight I just came across for cotton thread. http://www.discountembroiderysupply.com/It is called Discount Embroidery Supply. I ordered some 40 wt and 80 wt cotton thread from them to make more smaller sizes of rope. They have a lot of thread and different sizes. Just check it out and it may help you out. If you use (Coats and Clark 30 wt and 35 wt), (Guttermann 50 wt),(Maderia 80 wt), and( Floriani 40 wt) you will have five sizes of single black thread to use and no rope walk needed. You might want to check out the lighter colors for the running rigging.
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Hello lambsbk Thanks for interest in my build. I also found your sight and you are doing a great job with your Conny. At this smaller scale it is really hard to make the rigging look right. That is why I went with making my own rope using the Byrnes Ropewalk. The kit supplied rigging line just left a lot to be desired.
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Just found your sight. Your Conny is turning out great. I look forward to following your future progress
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That's just the right bit for drilling scuppers!
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Some people have asked me post how I did the runner pendants. In this picture the line has been made and served and attached to 1/8th bullseye. The bulleyes have been adjusted and set with diluted white glue and trimmed. The two lines have been seized and the tails left on for the final adjustments. The lines have been placed on the mast. The tails aid in the final adjustments. This takes some time. I am so glad I do it off the model. Once I am happy with the position of everything I set the lines with diluted white glue. Once the glue is dry I trim off all those tails. Here is the finished product I will next install the swifter, which will be served the full length and move on the the lower shrouds. The small hole in the mast is where the yard will be installed. I try to pin all my attachments to make the rigging simpler.
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Thanks George. They work out great and make the rigging a whole lot easier. This way I can rig the masts while sitting in my chair instead of standing up and working over the model worrying about breaking something off. With the rigging there is a lot adjusting the lines to get them just right. If you look behind the masts you can see the other stands ready to go to work
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I finished all the foremast shrouds. The shrouds are all I want to install on the foremast right now. I am figuring out the rest of the lines that will go on the Foremast and make them up ahead of time. That way when I begin installing the mast all the lines will be ready to go. I will do the same for the Main mast and Mizzen mast.
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Hello J T The plan sheet for the Constitution lists the rope sizes on the rigging plan. I just used those measurements and scaled the rope to those sizes. There are many ways to measure line diameter. The one I chose was a simple digital caliper that displays you your sizes in inches and mm. You have to find a way that works for you. You and I would probably come up with different sizes depending on how hard you squeeze your caliper. I feel making my own rope gives me a more realistic look than just using the kit supplied few sizes. Plus the fact I want to get into some scratch building and figured this would be good practice for that. Hope that helps and thanks for your interest
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Hello David. Hope you are feeling better. As for bringing it to the meeting I am putting some construction pictures on a flash drive and Kurt is showing it to the members with the projector. Works out well and no hassle in transporting. So far I am happy with the cotton line. A little fuzz, but just don't look too close
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Here are two photos. The top photo looked to clunky to me so I redid it and second photo is the result I am happy with. Both rigging lines are the same and served with the same thread. The only change is I used a smaller size line to seize them to the mast. To me one little change made a big change in appearance. That's what I mean about experimenting George. To me the bottom photo just looks cleaner and more to scale.
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Hello George, thanks for your interest. I basically use Coats and Clark 35 wt and 30 wt cotton thread. Gutermann 50 wt cotton thread, sold at most fabric stores. Lizbeth 80 wt and 20 wt thread, and DMC #5, #8 and #12 both sold at Hobby Lobby. I also use Aunt Lydia's #10 and #3 cotton thread also sold at Hobby Lobby. All my thread is cotton. For my Conny build I chose to use only single, three, and nine strand rope. At single thread this material gives me 10 sizes for thread. If I choose to serve the thread I get another 10 sizes. Some of the threads are close to the same size, but they do differ slightly. Then if I use my rope walk and make three strand rope I now get 10 more larger sizes of scale rope, and if I choose to serve it I get another 10 sizes of scale rope. Moving on, if I use the three strand rope on the rope walk I now have 9 strand rope in 10 different sizes, and can serve them and get another 10 more sizes. And so on and so on. So out of 10 single strand sizes I can well over 30 different sizes. Some of the sizes may only vary by .001 or so in diameter. The best thing to do is experiment making rope in the scale size of your model. I will be posting a few pictures in the future that will show one of by do overs and show how much difference a smaller size of serving line made.
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Thanks for you comments. I too am looking forward to that day I can put my Conny into the display case. Once you get the rigging figured out, it is fun. But coming up with that original plan to follow can be a pain. It is really tough at this scale to add detail and not make it look clunky. I am on my third try to get things right. I want the rigging to look as good as it can. The kit supplies several sizes of rigging and tells you to do your best. I purchased the Jim Byrnes rope walk and decided to make my own rope. I use about eight sizes of thread. This gives me about 24 different sizes of line consisting of eight single strands, eight three strands, and eight nine strands. If you serve a few of sizes you now come up with a few more sizes. My hopes are to come up with a more realistic looking rigging at this scale. As the rigging goes up the masts it becomes smaller and smaller. The shrouds and stays are larger than most of the rest of rigging. You can see the size difference between the shrouds and the swifter, The shrouds and swifter are the same size, the only difference is that the swifter is served. It has taken a long time and lots of mistakes and do overs to get where I am at. So far I am happy with my results. I can't wait to move on to some larger scale models, I seem to be leaning toward 1/48th scale where you can add more detail than at 1/76th.
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Nice Model. You did an outstanding job!
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